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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My struts are going in my 2007 S60R with 160xxx and it’s time to replace them. I like the 4C struts with the ability to change the settings easily, but they are so damn expensive! Plus even in advanced I’ve still gotten a lot more body roll and nosedive than I want. I’m thinking of buying the BC racing coilovers off of fcp euro because I’ve heard great things. Plus fcp replaces anything for free and I plan on having the car for a very long time. And the adjustable height is very attractive as well. The only thing I’m hesitant about is the fact that the 4C system will be deactivated and obviously I know I won’t be able to press the buttons to change the strut stiffness, but I love the increased throttle response and the car legitimately feels faster in advanced and sport mode. So I guess my question is there any way for me to install the BC CO’s and still be able to use the comfort/sport/advanced buttons to change the throttle sensitivity and everything else the buttons do besides change spring stiffness?
 

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My struts are going in my 2007 S60R with 160xxx and it’s time to replace them. I like the 4C struts with the ability to change the settings easily, but they are so damn expensive! Plus even in advanced I’ve still gotten a lot more body roll and nosedive than I want. I’m thinking of buying the BC racing coilovers off of fcp euro because I’ve heard great things. Plus fcp replaces anything for free and I plan on having the car for a very long time. And the adjustable height is very attractive as well. The only thing I’m hesitant about is the fact that the 4C system will be deactivated and obviously I know I won’t be able to press the buttons to change the strut stiffness, but I love the increased throttle response and the car legitimately feels faster in advanced and sport mode. So I guess my question is there any way for me to install the BC CO’s and still be able to use the comfort/sport/advanced buttons to change the throttle sensitivity and everything else the buttons do besides change spring stiffness?


Yes. You need to cut out the sensor from all 4 struts and seal them up, plug them back in and hide the sensor part. There’s a right up on how to do it somewhere on here.


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I had no issues with my 4C on Eibachs, they rode smooth and werent crashy. a month or so ago an eibach spring snapped (after about 5.5 years on Eibachs) so I though i should refresh the 4Cs since im at 104k miles on the original 4Cs with all the original mounts or switch to BC/KW coilovers. after doing some research and driving some local Rs on coilovers I picked up BC Racing coilovers from FCPEuro and had them ship with 7kg front swift springs.

just got the car back today from the shop and WOW it's amazing! it's comfy and handles so much better. you wont be disappointed switching to coilovers.

I had a friend who recently did a 4C refresh so I cut up his old struts/shocks to use those sensors and I have no CEL or Chassis message. i can still use my 4C buttons for my tune. I have pops and burbles in advanced and it works.

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...th-pictures!&p=2573738&viewfull=1#post2573738
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?235297-How-to-fool-the-4C-strut-system-Tutorial-with-pictures!&p=2573738&viewfull=1#post2573738
 

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4C is cheaper than BCs or KWs FYI...
That isn't accurate, especially if you price in everything (springs, mounts etc) even without that, BC coilovers a $250 a corner at FCP, versus over $300 a corner for just the strut for a 4C strut.

I haven't ordered mine yet (had to spend the grand on the house instead of the R) but since they have come down in price, coilovers are now a very cost effective option.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Perfect these links will be very helpful! I was wondering if the 4C system could be fooled thank god im definitely going with the BC’s then. And no the BC struts are about 1000$ on fcp for the entire kit with all 4. For the kit including all the mounts for the stock 4C struts it’s about 900$ and that is ONLY the two front struts. So to get all 4 of the 4C struts and the hardware and mounts it’s looking like close to 2000$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just seeing paisley pirates post Now lol but turbor does mean you got a tune that is only active in advanced? Because that’s exactly what I want to do I’m trying to keep comfort at stock performance and get a tune that activates only in advanced mode I wasn’t sure if it was possible though!
 

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And to add that bc replacement shocks are 95$ a corner. I do miss the 4c but I don’t miss the side hop and crashing.


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Perfect these links will be very helpful! I was wondering if the 4C system could be fooled thank god im definitely going with the BC’s then. And no the BC struts are about 1000$ on fcp for the entire kit with all 4. For the kit including all the mounts for the stock 4C struts it’s about 900$ and that is ONLY the two front struts. So to get all 4 of the 4C struts and the hardware and mounts it’s looking like close to 2000$.
It’s not. If you know where to look you can be around 350/corner max. With mounts and bushings. Wouldn’t bother swapping springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright that’s not terrible, but still I’d rather pay 100 less per corner and get the upgrade in performance AND get lifetime free replacements from fcp. Plus I’ve been itching to lower her just a tad too
 

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If you are going to lower it, look into ipd offset camber bushings and adjustable toe links for the rear, you will need them to get back to the right alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finally ordered the BC’s! As I was doing a little more research into the the 4C delete I came across a couple posts with people talking about “wiring resistors” to each corner to fool the 4C system and they said they did it and it worked, but didn’t say how to go about doing that so anyone have any idea how I can do that to mine? I’d rather be not need to cut up my 4C struts seems like the wiring of the resistors is much simpler. Unless someone wants to sell me the sensors already cut out of the struts I’d go for that too...
 

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If you are going to lower it, look into ipd offset camber bushings and adjustable toe links for the rear, you will need them to get back to the right alignment.
Or just get the rear toe bars and have the rear toe zeroed out. I haven't had any excessive wear on my rear tires. I'm at like -2.2 to -2.4* camber in the rear.

My rear toe is set to 0* on both sides. Not total toe, mind you.
 

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Finally ordered the BC’s! As I was doing a little more research into the the 4C delete I came across a couple posts with people talking about “wiring resistors” to each corner to fool the 4C system and they said they did it and it worked, but didn’t say how to go about doing that so anyone have any idea how I can do that to mine? I’d rather be not need to cut up my 4C struts seems like the wiring of the resistors is much simpler. Unless someone wants to sell me the sensors already cut out of the struts I’d go for that too...
Might try something like this:
https://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/8-suspension/109305-magnetic-ride-delete-solution.html
 

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Resistors only work in 04’s iirc. 05-07 you need to cut the sensors out of the struts plug them in and hide the sensors.


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Advance mode probably is slightly faster, people have said it makes it run a little more rich and advances ignition timing slightly: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?90629-Advanced-mode-question

4c delete: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...-strut-shock-delete-replaced-with-HD-BILSTEIN
...I've totally always wondered about that. Even sitting at idle, when I switch to advance, it sounds and feels like the timing or something changed...can't put my finger on it, but I feel like something is different on the engine side whenever I hit the magic button!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Interesting definitely good to know! I also read that you could tear off the top of the sensor without cutting up the strut, and secure a bolt inside it to fool the system. Does that also only work on the 04s? Or can I try that? Really trying to avoid cutting up the struts if some are still good.
 

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04 you need resistors. I don’t exactly what one. 05-07 you need the sensor in the struts. Theres a right up somewhere here about the 04 resistor trick.


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Reading through the 11 pages on 4C delete - let me distill it to a couple of sentences:

All units need to retain the accelerometers that are on the struts (that's the little bobble thing that is bolted onto the strut with wires running to it, part way up the strut) so that the rest of the DTSC functions normally. They need to be oriented same way as before.

04 models - 4C looks for resistance only - so an 8Ω - 20w max resistor is sufficient to "trick" it. I bought 100w max units as they had mounting holes and looked a little sturdier.

05-07 models - 4C sends a PWM code down the wire to look at the struts - so a resistor alone will set a code - so far these have to have the old actuator off the old strut removed and put back into the car somewhere. I would wrap it well in electrical tape and put it up in the engine bay up front, and feed it into the interior of the car on the rear to ensure it doesn't get banged up just dangling in the wheel well - let alone get water and junk in them.
 
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