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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
@jerseyjeff it was def. a steal, wasn't expecting it to be that cheap. I had to end up doing the same to the foam under the carpet. Water got trapped underneath at some point, and I wasn't going to pull the HVAC unit and dash to dry out the lower portion of the foam. Chop chop lol.


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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
@wtyrrel I'll consider gluing the window on the new top with 3M when it inevitably gives out in the future.

There used to be quite a few in the three yards closest to me, I've snagged a few SC-901's and 4x100's. It's only now that there appears to be a C70 drought.


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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
If I slammed on my breaks I'm sure it would've been much worse. Would've sanded down my rotor with the asphalt lol. @agravadr


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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Not much to post at the moment, been a busy week. But I did try to swap in the the S70 seats, and in order to swap them in I would need to mess around with the brackets. I would have to swap out the bracket that retains the rod for the seatbelt. I still have other things to finish before I experiment, so for now, the seat swap is temporarily on hold.

I took off the fender along with the wheel liner to see the carnage, which there barely was. The only thing that has me a bit upset is that this was partially crushed from the impact.
these torx screws bent into an L. I had to end up just ripping the fender off once I removed all the other bolts. Other than that, things look fine. Just waiting for a fender to pop up now.

Also, I got the ECC working! Even though the ECC has codes registered, the AC blows ice cold and hard as hell now, so I'm super stoked. Have a buddy coming over next week to help with the top install. I was reading around, and I saw that in order to get the new top working when i throw it on I'll have to get it recalibrated at the dealer? Is that true? I need to order misc. plugs and clips for the interior too. Next week should be way more eventful.


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I've heard that it *may* need recalibrating.
There was a youtube video a while back of him replacing his and he said he didn't need it.
Basically I think it only needs it if there's a problem...
Let us know when you're done, eh? ;p
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I've heard that it *may* need recalibrating.
There was a youtube video a while back of him replacing his and he said he didn't need it.
Basically I think it only needs it if there's a problem...
Let us know when you're done, eh? ;p
Will do


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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well I was gonna wait for my homie next week to help me with the top but I got a little carried away lol. This thing weighs like a MF. My driveway's a hot mess right now.



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Coming along looks like!! I still can't believe your luck with that top. I parted out a convertible a few years ago, with a working but ratty top, and had people beating down my door to give me $200 for it lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Coming along looks like!! I still can't believe your luck with that top. I parted out a convertible a few years ago, with a working but ratty top, and had people beating down my door to give me $200 for it lol.
Definitely is, slowly but surely. And damn that's insane lol.



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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
After some cursing and some blood, I got it in.

Need to give the top a good cleaning. Also replaced the latch motor assembly connected to the deck lid.
Now unfortunately, after wiring everything up, it has not started working automatically (I didn't get my hopes too high.) I'm guessing that the car is reading that the top is down because when I put the key in the ignition now, it drops all fours windows. I also can't close the front of the top because of this metal bar that's retracted.

Not sure what to do next, so I'm going to check the fuses for the soft top. I need to at least figure a way to close the front so that I can drive it over to my Indy friend and see what VIDAS says. May just need to be recalibrated.


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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Update: I couldn't close the front because I'm an idiot lol. Just had to remove the dome cover for the top latch and retract them manually with an allen key.



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So it works up/down?
By 'metal bar' do you mean the 2 C-prongs that forward into the window frame once the spikes are down into the window frame?

Also: the car lowers the windows slightly at first when lowering or raising the top. As far as I know, it will lower the windows slightly every time you touch that button.
Whether it's up or down, or in the middle of the way up/down, or whether the windows are already slightly down.
Then it raises them back up when done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
So it works up/down?
By 'metal bar' do you mean the 2 C-prongs that forward into the window frame once the spikes are down into the window frame?

Also: the car lowers the windows slightly at first when lowering or raising the top. As far as I know, it will lower the windows slightly every time you touch that button.
Whether it's up or down, or in the middle of the way up/down, or whether the windows are already slightly down.
Then it raises them back up when done.
It's not going up or down. The top isn't doing anything still, even with everything still connected. The button for the top flashes, but it doesn't beep anymore while driving. I think one of the micro switches in the rear deck lid may have been damaged when closing the top. Gonna check it out later today. Yes, the 2 C prongs. They were too far back, so I advanced them with the Allen key manually.

What the windows are doing is when the key is in position 1-2, all the windows come down.


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I'm hoping this picture works. I made adapter plates which bolt into the chassis just as the c70 seat does. Then I mounted my S40 seats onto these plates. Worked absolutely perfectly
 

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I read the part about the top with some interest as I tried a number of different glues, including the black gooey stuff to reattach the rear window without much success. Somehow in the attempt, two microswitches were cracked although I merely raised the rear of the top enough to take tension off the rear window. The cost of the parts was over $1,000 and then the top had to be reacalibrated. A new A5 Robbins top plus installation was another $1,800. Not particularly economical at close to $4,000 for many of these cars but I was lucky enough to find one with 23,000 miles on it a couple of years ago.

If Baucies can get the new top to work without spending a ton of money, he will be way ahead of the game. Best of luck.
 

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04 C70 Soft Top help

Just started up a c70 that sat for 6 years after R2 fuel pump and draining gas. runs good. Top dead. back window fell in rats chewed some wires fuel gauge not working. Stripped cables trying to manually open it. Can it be saved or should I sell as is? cannot find much info on fixing tops. Tear latches stuck close still no open top. Regards Dan.. [email protected] in Gulf Breeze Fl.
 

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How did the top swap go? Can you elaborate on the procedure for removing/replacing the whole assembly and if you needed to do any re-calibration due to the swap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Just started up a c70 that sat for 6 years after R2 fuel pump and draining gas. runs good. Top dead. back window fell in rats chewed some wires fuel gauge not working. Stripped cables trying to manually open it. Can it be saved or should I sell as is? cannot find much info on fixing tops. Tear latches stuck close still no open top. Regards Dan.. [email protected] in Gulf Breeze Fl.
To be honest I don’t think it’s worth it. The market for LPT and HPT C70’s seems plentiful, at least down here in Miami and Florida in general. They pop up really frequently, and you can score a lower mileage clean example for anywhere between 1.7-3.5/4k, and if you really want to you can find some 60-70k mile examples from 04 for about 5/6k. Once the top on these go, unless it’s one that used to work and you’ve already owned, I’d stay clear.

The point and time and time I owned this particular car I didn’t have VIDAs to properly read codes, but even then, they’re cheap enough that I wouldn’t invest money into it.


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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
How did the top swap go? Can you elaborate on the procedure for removing/replacing the whole assembly and if you needed to do any re-calibration due to the swap?
So after the swap, the top still didn’t work 100%. And shortly thereafter, about 2k miles later the head gasket blew lol. I would very highly recommend having a second set of hands help you drop in a new assembly because it’s very heavy.

If you do take on this endeavor I would make sure that once you remove the top you clean the drain plugs that sit underneath the top. I’d try to clean them in the car cause once they’re out they’re really difficult to get back in as theres almost no space. Otherwise, tear it up. You’ll have to disconnect the wiring harness and lift the rear deck lid manually to access everything.

I didn’t have VIDAS at the time I did this and I had less experience in general. It’s a must to do the calibration properly with VIDAS. There’s quite a few micro switches involved throughout the top on the hinges and elsewhere.

But like I just posted, if you’re in the hole on that C70, or it’s something random and worth it like a saffron T5M, I would invest in another working C70 lol.


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