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Discussion Starter #1
I have my car at the dealership getting new shoes installed and having my timing belty service done. Just got a call from the tech that my negative battery cable is looking bad and will need to be replaced, soon of not now. They quoted $432! Does this sound right? I don't think I've ever had to replace a battery cable on any other car, not have I heard of anyone having to replace theirs. Yeah, the car is almost 7 years old and approaching 120K on the odometer but this just seems crazy. Anyone know if there are aftermarket cables available? Is replacement a difficult job?

Also got a quote to fix/replace my factory nav screen that stopped working...$738. That's not going to happen!
 

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I'd politely decline and clean up the existing terminals and connections really well and keep on cruising. If it isn't causing trouble, why do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I tend to agree with that thinking! I'll get more info when I go to pick the car up...I'm really hoping the cable isn't starting to fray or deteriorate. I just had my battery replaced like 6 months ago and the tech said nothing so either this crept up quickly or they didn't install the cables correctly.
 

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Just take a look at it when you pick it up. What normally happens is that a cheap/bad battery will seep acid out the top. It then wicks it's way into the cable end & finally the cable itself. The braided cable enclosed in the plastic cover becomes a perfect breeding ground for corrosion. I've seen them snap right off inside the insulation once you disturb them. Nothing but powder inside. This is why it's important to grease the terminals when installing a new battery. It's also a good idea to check/clean the top once a year or so.
 

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$432 is a bit high I'd think. Can the negative cable be longer than 2 feet at most?
 

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There are 2 sections to that Cable , should have asked which section Upper to the Lower to Starter ?

Anyway there is some slack , so You could put a New End on cable if 1 end is Corroded , Both Ends may not be enough for that .

Good Ends are Specially Crimped and Silver Soldier or Tinned In . You should be able to put a Meter
on it and find the Bad section .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, guys. I spoke to the tech briefly last night and he said the corrosion was likely the result of the old battery leaking and being wicked up into the cable. I've not taken a peek at the cable yet to verify. He also said that the cables are sold in a set so it didn't sound like I could just buy the negative cable. He estimated 1.5 hours of labor...combine that with the cable set and I guess $432 sounds right. Still not sure I'm going to do it. This is very frustrating...just spent money on new tires, an alignment and timing belt service...not sure I want to drop another $400+ right now. And it's just a matter of time before my clutch needs replacement. And my rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, Eng. Any idea how much labor is involved in the install? Anything need to be removed? I don't have many tools and am, quite frankly, not good at mechnical skills.
 

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First Off - did - You find the Bad cable end and If so take a Photo of it .

Second - You have to measure that cable . You should be able to measure Up , draw a simple drawing on Car-broad . ( So You may Reflect on the Order _ Before Ordering ) Add 4" - Order .

Third just have a Local Shop install it , someone You Know .

I'd to see which cable , He could have been talking about a 10 Gauge Negative Line to that Goes to - Fuss Box ( ? )
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've not had the chance to look at the cable yet...hopefully this weekend. I did get confirmation from a couple sources, however, that the cables are sold as a set for $200+ and apparently have in-line fuses on them, possible indicating that I can't just get a cable made up. I emailed the dealership for more info on which cable it was and how bad the damage is. Hopefully I can just get an end put on it but I'm never that lucky.
 

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Hopefully I can just get an end put on it but I'm never that lucky.
I was going to mention that. The factory ends ARE available from Volvo. Only $10 at Tasca. I'm sure it's the ground side, it has two cables that run right from the terminal. One is very short & out by itself. The other meets up with the positive lead & runs much further down.
 

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Seven, what is wrong with the GPS? Is it just that the screen won't raise?
 

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save your money, get some baking soda mix it with water, use a old tooth brush and pour the mixture over terminals and over corroded( exposed) cable. it will instantly neutralize corrosion and acid, your terminals will get back to like new condition. This method works wonders!
take a picture and let us see what it looks like before and after...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJwVwvEHh3Q

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWmblmpo7nI&feature=related
Wow that's pretty cool in that it might give me a more durable solution to my contacts that seems to build up acide corrosion a lot faster than it use to especially on the ground terminal. BUT I can't believe the guy hosed down his battery!!! Obviously he was never been taught basic electricity principals! Batteries are pretty high amps. That short circuit would have shocked the battery pretty hard!!! Not mentioning hazardous concequences like over heating and catching on fire... please don't hose down the battery. . . !!! Unplug , remove the battery, and do one at a time. . .
 

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Hosing the battery doesn't hurt a thing.

But, cleaning corrosion with baking soda isn't a fix. If corrosion is occurring, it's either an electrolyte leak or a bad connection that is oxidizing. Baking soda only makes that last one worse.
 

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i did this method on my sisters-in-law toyota camry, I used baking soda, than cleaned the terminal with a metal file and sand paper, sprayed some of the battery terminal anti-corrosion spray and it has been good for almost 2 years now.
 

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The spray is a good idea. Taking apart the clamp, cleaning the surfaces to bare metal and coating them with the spray will ensure a good electrical connection, which in turn will reduce oxidization all by itself. you can buy brushes for this job, they are double-ended, one cylinder-shaped brush to use on the terminals, and one cone-shaped brush to get inside the clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Seven, what is wrong with the GPS? Is it just that the screen won't raise?
Yep, the screen won't go up...I can hear the motor turning but the screen just lies flat. Had a similar issue maybe 5 years ago that was fixed under warranty.

Unfortunately, the weekend got away from me and I didn't get to look at the cables. I did email the service manager at the dealership for more info but haven't heard back yet. Will update this thread shortly! Thanks for all the feedback, though...my frustration has subsided somewhat but I still don't want to pay $432!
 

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Yep, the screen won't go up...I can hear the motor turning but the screen just lies flat. Had a similar issue maybe 5 years ago that was fixed under warranty.

Unfortunately, the weekend got away from me and I didn't get to look at the cables. I did email the service manager at the dealership for more info but haven't heard back yet. Will update this thread shortly! Thanks for all the feedback, though...my frustration has subsided somewhat but I still don't want to pay $432!
Yea don't pay that much, there's a metal replacement somewhere out there, I'm having a hard time finding it right now. Anyone know where to get one of those metal replacements? But here's someone with a similar issue:

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?151555-2005-volvo-s40-RTI-navigation-screen-won-t-pop-up-broken-gear&highlight=navigation+s40

Carreragt7 used to have the issue, I don't know if it was ever solved though. There was a member that used to sell them "siggielch". Let me know if you come up with any results, I still need to fix mine too.
 
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