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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

Recently replaced my ball joint /control arm couldn't find much information so i took a few photos and sharing my experience.

Tools - Air Gun, Basic Hand Tools (12mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 21mm), Air Hammer(Key), Jack Stand.
Total time is about 3 hours. (1.5 each side).
All Parts was brought from FCP Euro Lemforder Control Arm and Ball Joint.

1. Jack up the car.
2. Remove wheel.
3. Take off the skid plate.
4. Remove all bolts from the control arm that's connected to the subframe. (Start with the 2 bolts at the front of the car and then the rear last).
5. Remove the nut from the ball joint.
6. Take the control arm out.
7. Remove the 2 bolts from the ball joint.
8. To remove the ball joint itself use a air hammer help HEAPS!!
<a href="http://imgur.com/gaDWzBx"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/gaDWzBxl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
*When the ball joint is still installed in the car, use the air hammer with a flat head chisel bit to wedge the ball joint out. (Be careful!)
* If possible find a small gap between the ball joint top surface and the knuckle run the chisel in from there.

9. Installing the ball joint.
<a href="http://imgur.com/HmgNjpk"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/HmgNjpkl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
* Hand thread the 2 ball joint bolts in and and slowly line the new ball joint in with hand tools. When the new ball joint is lined up about 2/3 of the way in, run the bolts in with an air gun to compress it in its home. (Alternately you can continue to use hand tools)

10. Swap over the steering limiter.
11. Install the new control arm. Put the ball joint nut back on. Rear nut and bolt. and tight the front 2 bolt in.
12. Wheel back on.
11. Repeat on the other side.
12. Alignment time.

Hope this helps!
Cheers,
 

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Me to,weather is a biiatch here in the south,suppose to be 61 tomorrow.. Was 41 with wind today bbbrrrrr.. What is the doohickey on the ball joint? Saw them with that brand..I'm using Moog LCA and ball joint..
 

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Its probably not advised however I will share anyway. When I changed mine out, nothing I tried (or felt comfortable doing) would get the ball joint meshed with the splines in the knuckle. I used Moog for both sides so i figured it was not the ball joints fault but the splines in the knuckle had developed corrosion and were nice and disgusting looking. I had to pry the old ball joint out of the knuckle with a long screw driver as my air hammer would have destroyed the mounting surface for the flange.

What I did to get around this was to take the ball joint to the table grinder and grind the splines a touch so that it would sit flush in there. DO NOT TRY TO DRAW THE JOINT IN WITH THE 2 BOLTS! You will risk pulling the threads/snapping the bolt off in the knuckle if the splines are slightly off. Granted I did not grind the splines flat but I did get a little bit of the "peak" ground down so it wouldnt be so difficult to get lined up. Did this shortly after i got the car with 160k on it and @ 230k, I have had zero issues and would not hesitate to do it again. I also did not remove the control arm when I did mine either which saved a bunch of time. Just press down on the LCA to get the stud out of the arm and then swing the knuckle assembly out of the way to get to the bolts and use a screw driver to break the old joint free.
 

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Me to,weather is a biiatch here in the south,suppose to be 61 tomorrow.. Was 41 with wind today bbbrrrrr.. What is the doohickey on the ball joint? Saw them with that brand..I'm using Moog LCA and ball joint..
same here in the NW. I would be using Meyle HD LCA's w Sweden Pro Parts ball joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
All the best guys!
 

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This is for my S80, but I think the S60 is the same....

Going to replace the LF ball joint, ordered a Lemforder. If this was my V70, I'd just buy a control arm but S80 arms don't come with a ball joint. Was looking at replacement procedure and see there's a special tool... is it necessary? Or can't you just beat them out? I see the OP replaced the entire control arm, but I'm just doing the ball joint - can I leave the control arm installed while I do this?

TIA
 

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I just did this on my daughter's '07 S60, and replaced the BJ's with the steering knuckle out of the car because I was planning to replace the control arms, all tie-rods, and both sway bar end links. I went with the Meyle HD arms and the Meyle HD ball joints. Be aware, though, that the Meyle joints have an extremely tight fit and can be very difficult to get properly aligned before tapping them into the steering knuckle. Even with the Volvo tool (used correctly with the alignment pins), I screwed up one the of ball joint flanges and had to replace it with a locally purchased Moog. As another precaution, I took the arms and joints to my local dealer and the tech installed them both for me for $40 cash. He said that the Meyle joint was almost impossible to get in, but the Moog went in perfectly and with no trouble. Part of the trouble with the Meyle joint was a slight misalignment of the mounting holes relative to the center of the ball joint cup... this misalignment allowed me to inadvertently get the tool off-center and off-angle, and therefore punched the ball joint into the socket at an angle. The Volvo tech had to use his die grinder to clean out the slight bulge this created inside one half of the socket in the aluminum steering knuckle.

Also be very aware that the air hammer with chisel point can quickly do some serious damage if not handled properly, and you can very quickly mess up the aluminum steering knuckle's flat face to the point where the ball joint flange will not sit flush. It is easier to use the air hammer with the control arms out of the vehicle because you can hit the flange lip from "above" and push the joint right out of its socket in just a few seconds.

BTW... that thingamajig shown on the ball joint stud in the original pictures is the protective hard plastic cover which comes with the new ball joints. It serves no purpose for installation, and is only there to protect the joint stud until it is installed.
 

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Has anyone just tried heating the arm to get the old ball joint out and the new one in? It's aluminum, it ought to go easily.....

I see I can rent the tool from Eeuroparts for $26 but it's a 2-week delivery and I'd like this fixed soon.

TIA
 

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It's not the control arm you have to worry about so much when removing the ball joint... a simple pickle fork and a two-pound, short-handled sledge hammer will separate the joint from the control arm with 2-3 solid blows.

That said, when considering heat, what you have to know up front is whether you have aluminum or steel components. Heating up steel is not as tricky or as risky, though you still risk making the heated zone more brittle than it was initially annealed to and can therefore be easier to crack under stress loads. From what I've read, heating up aluminum is really tricky because it's so much easy to permanently embrittle the aluminum. The same goes for the steering knuckle, which is also aluminum.
 

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Would be interesting to see how many folks have been successful getting the ball joint off with a fork and hammer on the 1st Gen XC90 LCA. Between the weight of the XC90 plus steel LCA, it's not always easy to get the ball joint stub off. I have the removal "tool" and will never go back to having to take the entire LCA off to beat the balljoint out. With the proper tool and proper process, did my '05 ball joints in my garage about 30 minutes per side (not including setup or cleanup). Folks can do it however they want but for the price, in my opinion, the tool will pay for itself by the second time you use it. Can see link http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...oint-Replacement-and-Non-OE-Parts-Observation for another perspective.
 

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I replaced the left ball joint yesterday. Actually went pretty easily, took about 40 minutes. Removed the wheel, then the ball joint nut. Pried the control arm down to release the knuckle/strut assembly. I then removed the two bolts holding the ball joint and heated the area for about 10 minutes with a propane torch. Rapped the flange of the ball joint with a bronze hammer and it immediately began to move. Pried it out. Heated the hole, lined up the new ball joint with the screws and then put a big socket right over the ball so it rested on the steel flange of the joint and hammered away. When it was about 1/16 from seating I took it all the way with an impact gun on the screws.

No fork, no special tool, no removing the control arm or the knuckle. Did it all on the car.

And it still rattles.
 

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That Volvo BJ removal tool looks nice, and I would have enjoyed having it. However, like I said above, I had excellent success with the pickle fork while the CA and hub were still on the car. Without a doubt, when planning to re-use the ball joints, the removal tool would be much more preferable so as to eliminate the potential for damaging the BJ boot. At this point, though, at least for me, I don't expect to ever need it again for my daughter and have pretty much decided that I do not PLAN to ever get a Volvo for myself, my wife, or any of my kids -- that could change under the right circumstances, but my plan is NOT.
 

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That Volvo BJ removal tool looks nice, and I would have enjoyed having it. However, like I said above, I had excellent success with the pickle fork while the CA and hub were still on the car. Without a doubt, when planning to re-use the ball joints, the removal tool would be much more preferable so as to eliminate the potential for damaging the BJ boot. At this point, though, at least for me, I don't expect to ever need it again for my daughter and have pretty much decided that I do not PLAN to ever get a Volvo for myself, my wife, or any of my kids -- that could change under the right circumstances, but my plan is NOT.
So I've replaced both struts and strut bearings, the sway bar end links, and one ball joint. The tie rods feel fine, no play in them but I'm still getting this knock/rattle on uneven pavement. Driving me nuts. The control arm bushings - the horizontal one looks a-okay but there's a split in the vertical one (closest the firewall). It's not a huge break and I'd be hard pressed to explain how that would knock. Loosey-goosey handling, sure...but a knock?

Stabilizer bushings seem fine, I had to really pry/rotate it down when I did the end links so the rubber is still gripping the bar.....

Running out of ideas.
 

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CV Joint, perhaps? I've not yet had to deal with one of those, but when my 20yo's Outback needed CV joints, he had a clicking sound but I'n not sur eif that is a Subaru symptom or not. I doubt it's a wheel bearing, but it could also be the other ball joint.
 

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Nah, not the CV joint. Wish it was, those things are a piece of cake.
 

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Nah, not the CV joint. Wish it was, those things are a piece of cake.
So I put it back on the lift this weekend and poked and prodded and still couldn't find the source of the knock. Happens at any speed over uneven surfaces... I have new struts and strut bearings, new ball joints and sway bar links. Bushings look ok in the control arms and the sway bar is tight. I removed the protective cap and nut from the top of the strut and compressed and released the strut to see if there were any odd motions and if the new strut bearing had gone bad but it looked normal. Put the nut back with an impact wrench and decided to get another set of strut bearings and give it a go....

Drove away and the noise was gone...nut must have been loose.
 

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If only it were always that simple of a fix!!
 
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