Has anyone ever removed the front LCA ball joints on their R? I have two new ones ready to install but I'm stumped on how to get them out, they seem to be pressed into the hub. Also, do I need to remove the axle bolt? The kit supplied a new one and the one tutorial I was able to find said to remove it. Any help would be appreciated.
Ball Joint Removal - need help!
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+1, this is how I got mine out a couple weeks ago. It takes some time, so have patience.![]()
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Yes remove the axle bolt if not you'll pull it apart internally ask me how I know. Also they are pressed it I took the tip I found on this forum to putting the news on in and that was to grind the teeth off the joint to make it smooth and went in without issue.
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Undo the axle bolt and confirm that it will move in and out of the hub (some have been glued to fix another issue). With your car properly and safely on jack stands, wheel/s off, undo the FRONT subframe bolt all the way then spin back in by hand a couple threads. This will lower the subframe enough for the BJ to pop out quite easily. Just make sure to re-tighten said bolt when done.
After you have separated the LCA from the steering knucle hub...
A tip for removing the ball joint from the steering knuckle hub is to use a slide hammer.
(you'll need a slide hammer with a female to male thread adapter)
Remove the 2 bolts that secure the ball boint
Screw the slide hammer onto the ball joint thread
A quick blow and the ball joint is out
No need for chiseling & levering the ball joint out.
A tip for removing the ball joint from the steering knuckle hub is to use a slide hammer.
(you'll need a slide hammer with a female to male thread adapter)
Remove the 2 bolts that secure the ball boint
Screw the slide hammer onto the ball joint thread
A quick blow and the ball joint is out
No need for chiseling & levering the ball joint out.
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796 Posts
While I agree that would be ideal, I can't imagine getting the car high enough without a lift. Would have to pull the knuckle off the car and put it in a vice or something for those of us working with jackstands.
Yep, that's about it. Couldn't get the ball joint tool to work with our setup.
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Agree - with the regular slide hammers, they're too long.
For our SS members - here's another option I've posted on V70R.com
Make your own Volvo ball joint removal tool
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1,804 Posts
I replaced a BJ Sunday evening. I tapped the joint out with a chisel from the back and front edges just behind where the bolts go through. I tapped the front and got some seapration, went to the back and did the same and when I tapped again at the front it fell out.
I pushed new up in there and started bolts so it would not fall out and used a 4 inch brass drift and tapped it alternately until it was flush. I had laid out the air hammer but I never had to whang on it hard enough to make me don ear protection go with air tool. Air hammers are a big risk to get away from you and punch the boot or bend rotor dust shield I didn't go with it first.
I pushed new up in there and started bolts so it would not fall out and used a 4 inch brass drift and tapped it alternately until it was flush. I had laid out the air hammer but I never had to whang on it hard enough to make me don ear protection go with air tool. Air hammers are a big risk to get away from you and punch the boot or bend rotor dust shield I didn't go with it first.
BUMP
I'll be tackling this task in a few days.
From what I understand, undoing the ball joints is just unscrewing the two nuts, axle bolt, control arm (one end) and it can come out after a bit of hammer massaging?
Has anyone failed doing this? I've got two new ball joints ready to be installed...
Thanks
I'll be tackling this task in a few days.
From what I understand, undoing the ball joints is just unscrewing the two nuts, axle bolt, control arm (one end) and it can come out after a bit of hammer massaging?
Has anyone failed doing this? I've got two new ball joints ready to be installed...
Thanks
Removing / pressing ball joints in with the car on jack stands sucks. But since we are replacing tie rods, ball joints and struts, we will take the knuckle off the car. This will make this job much easier.
Ahhhh good idea.... I just hope my axle doesnt fall out
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Make sure you remove the axle bolt, first thing, I didn't and I started prying at the knuckle thinking that I could get the balljoint out using it as leverage. Bad idea, plop goes the cv boot.Ahhhh good idea.... I just hope my axle doesnt fall out
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I'm still a big believer in using a hammer & chisel as a last resort.
You don't want to damage your steering knuckle.
Make your own ball joint extraction tool...
I know this thread has been inactive lately but I thought this may be worthy of reanimating it.
I'm going to be replacing my pass. side c/v axle soon, so I decided I should also replace the ball joint while I have it apart. I've noticed how much difficulty it gives most people trying to get it out so I did some searching and found a tool made special for removing the ball joints on our cars.
http://shop.ktcautotools.com/collec...olvo-ball-joint-remover-v70-xc70-s60-s80-xc90
It's hard to tell from the images they show if it will separate it from the hub assy. or just separate it from the control arm. I'm assuming/hoping it separates it form the hub assy. I'm probably gonna order it just to try it out. If it works it's probably gonna be well worth the $55.
I'll keep you posted...
edit: after looking at the pics closer, it appears that is only separates the ball joint form the control arm I guess that means back to hammer and chisel
I'm going to be replacing my pass. side c/v axle soon, so I decided I should also replace the ball joint while I have it apart. I've noticed how much difficulty it gives most people trying to get it out so I did some searching and found a tool made special for removing the ball joints on our cars.
http://shop.ktcautotools.com/collec...olvo-ball-joint-remover-v70-xc70-s60-s80-xc90
It's hard to tell from the images they show if it will separate it from the hub assy. or just separate it from the control arm. I'm assuming/hoping it separates it form the hub assy. I'm probably gonna order it just to try it out. If it works it's probably gonna be well worth the $55.
I'll keep you posted...
edit: after looking at the pics closer, it appears that is only separates the ball joint form the control arm I guess that means back to hammer and chisel
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3,451 Posts
Has anyone tried a slide hammer?
1. Disconnect the lower control arm from the ball joint.
2. Remove two bolts holding the ball joint to the knuckle.
3. Attach slide hammer to the external (male) threads on ball stud. Slide hammer would need internal (female) thread adapter.
4. Actuate slide hammer to pop free the ball stud from knuckle.
Notice the splines that are pressfit into the knuckle:
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Slide hammer: $22 at Harbor Freight: Linky: http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-slide-hammer-and-puller-set-5469.html
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1. Disconnect the lower control arm from the ball joint.
2. Remove two bolts holding the ball joint to the knuckle.
3. Attach slide hammer to the external (male) threads on ball stud. Slide hammer would need internal (female) thread adapter.
4. Actuate slide hammer to pop free the ball stud from knuckle.
Notice the splines that are pressfit into the knuckle:
Slide hammer: $22 at Harbor Freight: Linky: http://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-slide-hammer-and-puller-set-5469.html
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