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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi All,

I introduced myself to the forum a few days ago after my recent purchase
Ill attach the link so there's no redundancy on my part

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?604173-New-C30-Polestar-Member

I wanted this thread to be as real time as possible so I'm starting this with almost nothing done to my vehicle.
I wish to keep all of the factory parts preserved and ready for installation and none of the work I'm doing will inhibit returning the car to its original state.

First thing I wanted to address was the wheels. The factory stock wheels were in such good condition I didn't want anything to happen to them on our awful roads here in PDX.

So I Picked up some MMR wheels and while I was shopping, a carbon grill from Viva.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/48523617567/in/dateposted-public/" title="2323"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48523617567_38c9083a6c_h.jpg" width="1600" height="879" alt="2323"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

With the wheels on I thought it was now tie for a fender roll to tuck those 19s perfectly. I have some free time coming up later in the week so I decided to schedule an appointment with a local who's gotten some excellent reviews from me and many others on his work. Normally I like to do things on my own but I've had Dave do a few of my cars before I was competent in the art and this project was one I knew he'd really want to see. I ordered new front fenders and plastics to do this so I can keep the original fronts preserved.

Next, I set on with ordering just about every part Ill need for the build.

So far I have ordered everything for Phase 1

Phase 2 will begin when my spare T5 arrives on the 21st and I can begin building it.

Phase 1 will include mostly bolt ons that I can reuse for the new motor or didn't cost me anything and will add some umph while I'm building the car.

Ive ordered or have
Pumaspeed Inlet manifold
Injen Intake - Free from a m8s totaled t5 build
AEM Fuel Rail
TSP Injectors
Walbro Fuel Pump
Radium Surge Tank
Custom Kit for 8AN feed / 6AN return lines
Viva GT Exhaust that I will weld my own tips on to
ENEM Performance Cams
MoTec Standalone
Various DeFi gauges - also free from m8s totaled T5 build
do88 Intercooler
GodSpeed rear camber arms


Ill start posting phase 2 info once I've made my final decision on just how far this car can be pushed.

For now Ill get on with installing what I get as I get it. Will try and get to the garage later this week.

Cheers
 

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Sweet!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! I’m very excited for this build. I’ve done a few air projects on quirky cars but this one will definitely take the cake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks a bunch. Your car looks awesome as well.I really like that color. I’m a little sad I don’t have the option to change my color as I want to keep it Polestars rebel blue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi All,

So today I decided to get the Intake on and show some pictures of the cars interior,trunk and some under hood shots with the intake installed.

First, here's my interior. Overall its in good condition but i definitely have my eye on a carbon R steering wheel I found online.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/48547329046/in/dateposted-public/" title="83B46F97-82F4-424E-9AE4-C59C5B1C40D7"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48547329046_94d9332c72_h.jpg" width="1200" height="1600" alt="83B46F97-82F4-424E-9AE4-C59C5B1C40D7"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

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Here's some shots of the engine bay with the new intake.

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Overall the install was really simple. Getting the intake manifold out was really the only fiddly bit but with the right series of movements its liberated.
Some small additions have been made to my purchase roster.
I added an Accuair management system, and a pod for my air pressure gauge so I can tidy up the lower dash area without the need to order a whole new piece because the factory one was drilled int for the air system. I do plan on keeping the pressure gauge as an analog check system for the digital display so I can make sure its always calibrated.

Tomorrow some unboxing and a boost gauge install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi again,

Boost gauge install has been performed with relative ease and I'm quite pleased with the results.

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All in all the routing of the vacuum line proved to be the most tricky but with some small modifications to the plastic engine cover it went in well.

more to come...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Update.
So when I was installing the gauge I noticed some oil on the cam gears. Today I decided to inspect the systems and determined that the seals are shot along with a good chunk of the belt assembly parts.
My new motor arrives tomorrow and I’d still like to drive the vehicle while I plan my build, I’ve decided to replace all of the seals front and rear as well as the pcv assembly and housing. I will also be putting in a catch can.
I’ve ordered all the specialty tools seals and timing assembly components and having them express shipped.
I also ordered a dual gauge pod from Ortiz custom pods to put two more essential gauges in the instrument cluster. The dual pod is very nice and is a replacement for the factory gauge housing.
I’ll have some pics once I complete the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update
I’ve decided to clean up my current air tank system since I’m not a fan of how I received the Initial setup. Currently the car has a singular medium tank in the boot. I’ve decided instead to order two mini tanks and mount them to the upper portion of the hatch pillars and tuck the lines. This will give me the full use of the boot and create some nice symmetry when the hatch is popped. I’ve also ordered some polycarbonate to mold into new inner fender liners so I can cruise with the wheels tucked. Since I don’t currently have a skid plate that’s not plastic I’ve decided to make one out of 12 gauge steel.my unit will have a bolt on front, mid and rear section so when I am low while driving I will not damage anything underneath the car.
I’ve also picked up some carbon fiber trim stuff. So far I picked up a front lip, side skirts, spoiler and lower rear diffuser.
More to come and suggestions welcome
 

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Car is coming along nicely. Not a fan of bagging but keep us posted on the cars evolution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Understood on the bagging. It’s not for everyone and it’s certainly more work than fixed setups as far as maintenance and care are concerned. I have enough race builds in my garage and I’ve really been missing a bagged vehicle in my life after I sold my last mini show car. The ride comfort is really why I enjoy bagging. It’s so sublime when I make trips across the US and Canada for car shows.
Hope to have some more pictures up next week but there’s quite a lot of work to be done and I have some performances that I will be traveling for so progress will stall just a bit.
Thanks for the support.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just for reference this was my last bagged show car build. Ill see if I can dig up more pictures of the build from the mini forum.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]06/48612679357/in/dateposted-public/" title="4BCFAF56-CA57-443C-91AB-36A44F04DA7B"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48612679357_e904c1ea04_b.jpg" width="960" height="602" alt="4BCFAF56-CA57-443C-91AB-36A44F04DA7B"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update,

The car is back together. All seals and the PCV system have been replaced and shes pulling strong. I still have yet to even unbox my spare T5 motor yet. Hopefully I'll get some time over the weekend to snap some photos.
The seal job was somewhat extensive but I'm more than pleased with the result. Ive also put in a new battery just for the heck of it. As of now I still have several exterior and performance parts outstanding so I'm waiting to do anything until I have all the pieces I need to complete each area fully before installation.
The car will also be having its fenders rolled a week from now so I'm very excited for that.
Here's some more recent beauty shots with the new exhaust and tips

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/48642816798/in/dateposted-public/" title="B9C55710-5A9D-4161-82A5-738769057CF9"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48642816798_08a1f5ecec_b.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="B9C55710-5A9D-4161-82A5-738769057CF9"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

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Engine bay is all clean and buttoned post surgery

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More to come!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update

Intercooler piping kit arrives tomorrow so I’ll be installing both do88 parts after the fender rolling this coming week.
I’m still awaiting aero parts so I may or may not do the front lip kit during the intercooler job.
I will also be picking up the 12ga steel I need for the three section skid plate. The goal is to fab it up this week, then have it powder coated next week.
I’m also looking to do a custom carbon rear diffuser to mount to the rear skid for a more aggressive look in the rear. If others are interested after it’s made I’ll post the carbon places info so others can get a mount in piece that’s similar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update,

Fender roll stage 1 was a success. Id really like to pull them out a little more so the next step is pulling the fender liner out, stretching the arch more and replacing the fender liner with ones I've made. I still think I can adjust the front camber a little as well to help shove that wheel in there.

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Hopefully I can finish this up by the end of the weekend.
More to come.
 

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Build your car the way you want and don't let others dictate how it should be. :)
But here's my opinion and suggestions...

There's no point in upgrading the injectors or fuel pump while still running the K04 turbo. If they're bad, go ahead and upgrade when replacing them. But don't waste your time and money on unnecessary upgrades until you have an idea of what you want to do with phase 2 of your build.

If you're considering going AWD, that'll require a different fuel pump, different down pipe, and different exhaust.

I would highly discourage installing cams without sleeves, and you'll need to tune the car at the same time of installation.

Also, if you're wanting to go with a big turbo setup for phase 2, then you want to keep the stock airbox. All these cone filter intakes just draw in hot engine bay air. The stock airbox has already been proven to be the most efficient option for these cars when paired with a high flow filter and upgraded upper intake pipe.

Before getting into things like cams, what about upgrading the charge pipe, throttle body, and a polished/portered lower intake manifold? I'd do all the bolt ons before you get to internal things.

A big red flag that I see is an extensive list of performance upgrades and no brake upgrades or additional suspension upgrades. You need to be able to handle and stop all that extra power.
Volvo's 320mm P1 brakes are a direct bolt-on up grade that are perfectly sufficient for the track. Or consider Wilwood or Ceika big brake kits.
One of the very first upgrades you should do on these cars is an upgraded rear sway bar and an upgraded torque mount. That torque mount will also help put the power to the ground and get you faster launches. I would also encourage getting an upper rear chassis brace, since these hatchbacks flex like the hollow cylinders that they are. Elevate now sells TheBelgian bar design.

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Personally, I wouldn't waste money on anything other than standard Stage 3 parts on a bagged P1.
1. With the CV joint angle that you'll be driving with and the torque that these engines produce, that's a lot of stress on the joints and money wasted on continuously replacing axles... Only replace axles with OEM Volvo parts.
2. Despite what anyone says, bags are not built for performance like a good set of coilovers. You won't be able to truly enjoy the power of a performance oriented build while on bags... It's fun to have the bragging rights of a fully built and bagged show car, but I personally don't see the point of parts that don't get fully utilized.

Another reason not to build for power... The AW55 transmission. A stage 3 AW55 will still get walked from a standstill or a rolling start to a bone stock M66. Many people have gone down that rabbit hole and quickly gave up or traded up for a car that was a better starting point for their builds.

Most tuning companies keep a torque limiter on 1st and 2nd gear with the AW55, so that can also hold back the power unless you get it removed.

You can still get good dyno numbers, but the gearing of the AW55 is not ideal for a performance oriented build. You will also need to consider upgraded transmission cooling if you plan to drive a tuned AW55 spiritedly.

I'm not saying the AW55 can't be a performance build. There are many fully built automatics that are downright fast. But if they were done on an M66 with an upgraded clutch, they would be even faster. The only thing the AW55 truly has going for it, in a performance build, is that it's easier to hook off the line. But a comparable M66 would be right back with it by 2nd gear.

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Judging by your before/after panel gap, looks like whoever rolled your fenders popped the entire front fenders out. Just plastic tabs and a few small screw that hold them in place. They're easy to accidentally pop out when applying inward force. When you pop them back in, double check your clearance; in the game of millimeters, that'll be enough fender adjustment to cause rubbing.

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Keep up the great work and don't let any of my constructive criticism dissuade you in any way. :)
Build your car for you and not for the satisfaction of others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the input. I think I possibly haven’t conveyed myself as clear as possible but everything you mentioned is valid in the context that I’ve presented my information in.

First and foremost. The performance parts listed are ones for separate motor that is going to be installed next summer. I’ve left out the turbo and internals list intentionally because I’m still undecided on many things. One of the reasons I left out the turbo information specifically is because I will be making the manifold, down pipe and new intake system myself.
I need to figure out what internals I’m using before I decide on a turbo size so I can use the new turbo efficiently. The manifold and injectors ordered are purely for helping me along with that VE data.

Second. When the new motor is installed I will be stitch welding the chassis and making braces for the car myself. I’ve been building time attack and GT cars for over a decade so I understand the importance of stiffness. However most of it will never be used because it is going to be a show car that has some bells and whistles so to speak. Part of what it takes to win shoes is having said bells and whistles. If I really want to enjoy performance I’ll just take my built GTR out.
Brakes were also left out because I’m still working with AP, my sponsor, on a setup that will go with my other set of wheels.

Third, I will not be using the factory transmission. Instead I will be using a dog box from an Australian company who did my previous EVO 8 build. We are currently working on an adapter for the block and creative mounting solutions for the box itself. This company is also working with a partnered company in AUS on a steering rack and axle setup.

Finally, the panel gap is there intentionally but only until this weekend when my performance is over and I fly back into PDX.I hadn’t been able to get the wheels to clear to my satisfaction so I’m going back in and pulling them a bit more as well as making some minor strut adjustments.

I suppose I should edit my initial post since some clarification on the entirety of the project is lacking.

I know I’ll never use most of the upgrades I’m installing to their fullest but the intent was never to build a track car that I’d use professionally.
I have enough of those.
The goal is to take the theory and parts from a race car and make a nice show car. It’s done all the time at the bagger shows I attend. Cars with oodles of mods and power yet flummoxed by a speed bump. It’s always a good time haha.
 

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Cars with oodles of mods and power yet flummoxed by a speed bump. It’s always a good time haha.
That's the most hilarious description of these bagged vehicles. LOL

"What would you say the car is good at?"
"Being low and looking good."

"What would you say it's bad at?"
"Driving."

:p
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Cars with oodles of mods and power yet flummoxed by a speed bump. It’s always a good time haha.
That's the most hilarious description of these bagged vehicles. LOL

"What would you say the car is good at?"
"Being low and looking good."

"What would you say it's bad at?"
"Driving."

<img src="http://www.vwvortex.com/Anthony/Smilies/tongue.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Stick Out Tongue" class="inlineimg" />


Essentially yes.... however if built right they can be extremely comfortable and fun. A lot of what a show car is can basically be described as less than practical but it’s awesome driving one that’s setup to do so properly. Your wheels need to clear so they don’t rub. Your motor work needs to be functional and tuned properly.
When it all is though...it’s certainly a fun experience.
I enjoy it far more than streeting a stripped out time attack car, which has been the past 11 years of my life.
 

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Well praise the "lowered"!
 
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