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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had terrible luck with my Volvo.... but for starters...

Other night I hit a damaged curb while trying to go out with the Family. Husband has the heatshield (underhood) of the car off as he's inspecting everything and checking hoses as we just purchased our "new" baby in March.

Anyway we managed to not DEMOLISH our tires or wheels, yet hit the A/C compressor and put a hole in our oil pan (thank god car was still running and didn't die) and the Passanger side motor mount is just done for....

When we inspected vehicle fluroecent neon greenish yellowish fluid was leaking. Which hubby says is the refrigerant... (Coolant we have is blue ik can be green too ..)

Husband asks us to kill car, and thats when we discovered the oil pan was damaged (immediately turned it back on!!)

We have a bluetooth diagnostic scanner/reader that when hooked to our phone, our baby can talk to us. I checked the DTS and we had our current code (General System to lean B1S1) and something of the ECM which i quickly researched and found to try resetting before anything. Code didn't pop again, (the 0171 code came back again)

Mode 6 is reading as it was before curb hopping

Live Read is giving us normal feedback even at highway speeds....


We didn't even go into "Limp-Home" mode...

Nothings reading out of norm... And I can't even pay the $160 for diagnostic at Volvo

You guys would cry knowing whats holding my engine in place with that busted motor mount...

J/B weld steel stick has taken care of the oil pan hole until funds seem more... Friendly.

Hubby says that it's the clutch for the compressor clutch that is making this loud obnoxious noise...he sprayed belt dressing on it and it got quieter...sooo whats the best and cheapest possible route to go upon a DIY repair?

I have Video of Damage and Recording of the noise but cannot attach due to size....

*Seriously have put Volvo's slogan to the test. Our baby runs like a champ with what needs to be done to get her running righg.*

The pic is from the night it happened.. (in the rain ugh lol)




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If the clutch is making noise and is damaged, I'd make sure it isn't seizing and it doesn't have any sharp edges on the pulley. I've seen many people shred that belt and get it tangled in the timing belt. Then you'll be looking at pulling the head or more likely- replacing the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Wow sorry to hear about the situation but at least it seems like your in good spirits. I wouldn't get a diagnostic check but i would definitely take it to a shop for a free estimate, with that kind of impact i wouldn't be surprised if other components got bent or damaged - they should also have scopes to narrow down where the noise is coming from - then we can tell you how do it cheaper lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Lol i mean with everything my little volvo has been through im just glad she's operational.

Ive got to replace some parts on suspension on both sides after getting the motor mount replaced, if prolly going for CV joint. Then definitely my compressor cuz its close to summer and my residence is in Texas....

Im just hoping we can make it to hubbys dads auto shop (6hrs from me).... ( personal/private auto shop) and put it on the lift and do repairs there... already gotta replace PCV breather i think

I got my car from a used mom and pop shop... And the guy put CHEAP conventional oil in it AND CHEAP GAS AND CHEAP EVERYTHING... kept telling us to use the cheap stuff.... Like i may be a woman but even i know don't use cheap stuff... Especially with complex systems like volvo...

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Conventional oil and 87 octane is all that car needs.
Don't forget the occasional oil additives, stop leak fluids, head gasket repair fluid... Oh! and that you should always use a battery with less CCA than required
That hurts my soul reading that and typing all that out. I give my baby girl castrol high mileage synthetic (that top shelf good good) and of course 93 octane. Shes got the premium sound system.. which she needs that good H7 battery (at least 700CCA and Reserve of 150)

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I hope you're not serious about stop leak fluids and head gasket repair fluids.

93 octane is wasting your money. People who believe using it is "treating" their car don't understand what octane ratings actually mean. 87 will not harm anything and you can "treat" your car to some proper repairs instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I hope you're not serious about stop leak fluids and head gasket repair fluids.

93 octane is wasting your money. People who believe using it is "treating" their car don't understand what octane ratings actually mean.
I was being sarcastic about the whole first line.
And im going off of Volvo's owner manual. Even says they recommend to use that brand and synthetic so why not? Shes sounded sooo much better and i can feel it performance wise. Shes got 155207 miles on her and she was given so much TLC before"Mr Shady Dealer" got his greasy paws on her.

And interesting about the lower grade octane because I know it can cause a code to come up... Something about wrong octane or something like that....again we're just going off of owners manual and trying our damndest to keep her in pristine condition as much as possible... Granted that was the second curb hit since March... Blew both driver side tires (lost one of the little Volvo cap things (dont remember technical term for them think it was hubcap or something like that.)



And I'd hate to see the look on your face if you saw my engine right now



*unofficial volvo durability tester*
 

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I won't get into this debate, but no, that is not what the owners manual says. Regarding oil:

"NOTE: Synthetic oil is not used when the oil is changed at the normal service intervals. This oil is only used at customer request, at additional charge. Please consult your Volvo retailer. "

And fuel:

"The minimum octane requirement is AKI 87 (RON 91)."

Volvo did not start requiring synthetic until 2013 and 91 octane wasn't required until the Drive-E engines.

Using synthetic and 91 won't hurt anything. There are benefits to synthetic in cara that require only conventional. There aren't benefits to 91 octane in cars that require 87 though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I won't get into this debate, but no, that is not what the owners manual says. Regarding oil:

"NOTE: Synthetic oil is not used when the oil is changed at the normal service intervals. This oil is only used at customer request, at additional charge. Please consult your Volvo retailer. "

And fuel:

"The minimum octane requirement is AKI 87 (RON 91)."

Volvo did not start requiring synthetic until 2013 and 91 octane wasn't required until the Drive-E engines.

Using synthetic and 91 won't hurt anything. There are benefits to synthetic in cara that require only conventional. There aren't benefits to 91 octane in cars that require 87 though.
I didn't mean for it to come out as a debate I'm literally just being very cautious as to what we do with our car as we've had a string of unlucky unfortunate automobile events and I want to hold onto this car and give it as much life as possible.

I joined this forum so that way I could learn from people who have experienced Volvo's little quirks and could pass that knowledge on.

I hope I didn't offend. I just always thought that I needed to put the premium gas because I thought that's what the manual had said. But owner's manual does say synthetic maybe better depending on driving conditions... And with how my husband drives the synthetic was better.



*unofficial volvo durability tester*
 

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Husband asks us to kill car, and thats when we discovered the oil pan was damaged (immediately turned it back on!!)
I don't quite understand this part. You noticed oil leaking from the sump and you continued to operate the engine? And why is restarting it immediately beneficial to the situation?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm sorry I'm not too familiar with technical terms and I might have explained it wrong.

There was no leak when the engine was on the moment we killed the engine and the oil drained to the oil pan that's when it started leaking we only lost about a quart of oil before the engine was turned back on.

Hubby kept the engine running until he got the oil pan patched with the J-B weld steel stick..

And we were not at our house when we hit the curb this is our only vehicle and it literally is our only way of transportation getting us from point A to point b.

I didn't say it was the best thing to do but at that time that was our only option.

Since this is happened to Saturday night after the repair there has been no more leak and when we check the oil thankfully we have no Quicksilver look to it.

As I said in the first post, the computer diagnostics are reading perfectly fine on the live read and there's only one DTC which is unrelated to this incident. And mode 6 isn't throwing out anything unusual.





*unofficial volvo durability tester*
 

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Interesting. I was wondering about keeping it running too. Must be the leak was high enough that it didn't leak (much) when the oil was recirculating but when it pooled up the level was high enough to get to the hole.
 

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At this point, it would be a good idea to sell the S40 and get a retired Crown Vic Police Interceptor. Will cope with the curbs much better... JMO
 

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Interesting. I was wondering about keeping it running too. Must be the leak was high enough that it didn't leak (much) when the oil was recirculating but when it pooled up the level was high enough to get to the hole.
Yes, I think this explains it. Generally I wouldn't advise chancing it with such an expensive engine on your only car, but if monitored carefully (ie: watching the oil pressure light like a hawk and checking oil level every couple miles) that's certainly a reasonable alternative to a pricey tow. I wouldn't be resting easy based on a diagnostic readout, though. Datastream isn't going to tell you how your rod bearings are doing. :rolleyes:

At this point, it would be a good idea to sell the S40 and get a retired Crown Vic Police Interceptor. Will cope with the curbs much better... JMO
I was thinking this as well. Or a '92 Camry 4-cylinder. Something more bulletproof than a P1 is probably in order. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The funny thing is we need to get a front-end alignment and we've been needing to replace the suspension just haven't made it there yet and she still driving like a champ besides the whole you know steering being a little bit off.

Normally I don't go around trying to hug curbs....lol but they seem lonely like they could use a good hug. LOL

And I'm readjusting to Volvo car height versus Chevy truck and suv heights that don't really have too much damage when you try to go over curb or the curb itself is damage to the point you can't recognize its the curb at night.

And you're right but a combination of watching the oil checking it running the diagnostics and any changes to how its driving now...

Definitely for sure making sure there is no silver specks in my oil because my last Volvo threw a rod through the oil pan and it just died :-( but that was six years ago

*unofficial volvo durability tester*
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I can say that I'm glad the damage isn't too much worse then it could have been. I hate the construction going on in the DfW as it is hell on the suspension and all of that...

And I actually get to learn the how to the what to the y to the where to the when.

This has really taught me a lot about caring for my own car having to do its own repairs and I get to be more Hands-On which is what I prefer doing when it comes to things I own I want to learn how to fix it when it's broken when there's no one else and when it may benefit me at another point in life

And I'll be able to recognize and identify things a lot easier.

*unofficial volvo durability tester*
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Whelp finally got the mount so we're gonna repair it today!!! May end up getting the a/c bypass pully until we can get the compressor and clutch.


*unofficial volvo durability tester*
 
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