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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone here put carburators on an FI head? I imagine that the injector plates can be removed and the ports sealedup-- does anyone sell plates to cover up the ports, or is this something I'll need to fabricate?<p>I have a 1975 242 with a B20F mechanically injected.<br>
 

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Re: B20F - FI Head w/ Carbs? (roger456)

Sure, I've done a bunch like that. IPD sells soft plugs to cap off the injector ports, and a mechanical fuel pump bolts right up to the block. On a K-jet head like yours, there's nothing else to block off. On D-jet heads, it's easy to fabricate a cover plate for the aux air valve hole and a threaded plug into the coolant temp sensor hole.<p> <IMG SRC="http://www.vclassics.com/allen/allen_18.jpg" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Beautiful engine. I didn't spot the plugs on IPD's website, but thanks for the heads-up.<p>You mention the fuel pump. On my engine there is a vacuum pump where the fuel pump would be. IIRC, it is plumbed inline with a port from the intake, with a T in the middle going to the brake power booster. Is the vacuum generated by the intake not sufficient for the power booster, or can the vacuum pump be removed?<p>
 

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Re: (roger456)

Vacuum pump?! Normally no such thing is needed. There's plenty of manifold vacuum for a brake booster.<p>(The photo is of an engine I built for a customer, not one of my own...)
 

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Re: (Phil Singher)

Hey Phil nice installation in that 122. Love the headers, did you fabricate them? The vacuum pump was needed on that 75 240 because of trying to meet the EPA regs. Just unbolt it and put in astock fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (VolvoBob)

Thanks for the tip, Bob.<p>I had been thinking of installing an electric fuel pump, since all the electrical is already in place. Im sure that the mechanical fuel pump will be cheaper, so its nice to know that the vacuum pump isnt necessary for the brakes.
 

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Re: (roger456)

The plugs for the injector holes are 3/4" (I think -- measure first) freeze plugs that are available from any car parts store. From experience, they may pop loose on you, so it is not a bad idea to have a couple in you door pocket. Another suggestion I was given was to put a bar across them.
 

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Re: (VolvoBob)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>VolvoBob</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Love the headers, did you fabricate them?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>No, the header is from John Parker. It was the last pre-production prototype.
 

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Re: (roger456)

Roger,<p> Do install an electric pump, if it's practical; as most old-school mechanics know, there's a pretty big problem with mechanical fuel pumps. If you can get an electric, and don't need to worry about smog laws, just find a salvage yard that can sell you a 'block-off' plate where the fuel pump would have mounted (B18E and B20E and F engines had these plates if they used electronic [Bosch D-Jetronic] fuel injection).<br> The problem is that the mechanical fuel pumps are open to the engine oil on one side of a thin diaphragm, and your gasoline tank on the other side. When (not if) that diaphragm fails... well, suffice it to say catastrophe results.<br> Electric's DEFINITELY the way to go.
 

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Notes re: K-Jetronic

When installing an electric fuel pump on a K-Jet carb conversion, keep in mind a few tips:<p><br>-the pump may need to 'pressurize' a bit on starting.<p>-the carb(s) need to be jetted/needled for the cam.<p>-depending on the conversion you're doing, you can be creative with the fuel return line to the pump and/or tank (look, Ma! No engine fire!) ...my SU's are plumbed for their bowl vents to return to the tank.<p>Cheers!
 
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