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Discussion Starter #21
Going well :) I've driven it about 1500 miles already, most to work and back. Soon it's time to swap the modified head in, but new head bolts are still on their way
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Engine is going strong after about 6k miles!

However I'm wondering what might be the reason the engine practically cuts off at 5500 RPM when accelerating. I feel that, if I corrected this, there would be some more performance until at least 6500 rounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Did you ever put on the "performance" head? Results?
Yeah, and I inspected it myself after the work was done, a lot of material came out with really smooth results. I don't think I ever pushed it beyond 5.5K before I got it, power peak was at around 4500 and started falling after that so there was no use pushing the engine further.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Oh never mind, I seem to have fixed it by accident :D I changed the timing gear, alternator and engine oils and soldered some feeble connections properly and sanded the important grounds nice and shiny.

Now it pulls angrily to just over 6500 after which it steadily loses grunt. I'm happy :)
 

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Discussion Starter #26

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I'm about to fire up my build for the first time this weekend.

Do you have to worry about overheating if you let it run at 2K RPM for 20 minutes? I'm still using the smaller B16B radiator and am concerned about that aspect. I am going to put two fans blowing on the front of the car like they do on dyno days.
 

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No, the load on the engine is minimal and it won't have an issue assuming the coolant is flowing. A n extra fan won't hurt a bit either.
 

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It's cooler out this weekend anyway, so I have less concern about this. The junkyard starter I bought died between my bench test and the engine install and had to order another one. Firing it today (hopefully)!!
 

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It all depends on what you're starting with. If you have a B16B in there now, it likely has an M4 transmission. The bellhousing for that trans won't bolt up to a B18 or B20. And I wouldn't put an M4 behind this engine.

However, if you already have a B18 in there, should be an easy swap. Your components can definitely handle this engine, no problem.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Yeah, a -64 with factory b18. I'm going to do a swap between my two cars so i have time to fix the rust that's worryingly grown in the 144. Thanks for your answer!
 

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Then you are all set to drop one of these in! Lucky man, I had to find an M40 trans and the correct bell-housing along with several other key bits. Still, was a lot of fun.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

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I'm in the process of a B20 built, too, and I was wondering what you guys do as far as rod bolts go? Do you just reuse the existing ones?The rod bolts that I supposedly have coming in a roundabout way through ARP (third party) haven't shown up yet, and I ordered them almost a year ago. You might imagine I'm getting tired of waiting, because I don't know if they'll ever actually show up at this point.

To give a background of the engine being built, here's a brief summary:
B20F with 6-bolt crank installed, carbureted with dual SU HS6's on the shorty intake with the IPD performance headers.
I've had the head shaved to 10.5:1 compression and had it worked over to wring the betterest performance out of it that I can, bored the cylinders forty-over (with pistons to match, of course) and a street performance cam.

I have no idea how many miles the engine I'm using had on it when it was pulled, but it wasn't blown or anything.

I really just don't want to blow up my engine by reusing rod bolts. Should I wait, or just go for it?
 

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If you don't know the history of the bolts, I might not use them. But they can definitely be tough to find. I got mine through VP Autoparts. They didn't have them in stock but it didn't take all that long to get them. I'm sure there are cross-referenced rod bolts for other engines that used the same ones (old Fords maybe?).

Sounds like a nice build, btw!

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Discussion Starter #37
Will a K cam fit nicely into this build with Weber 38/38 or would I have to change something else (besides the tappets) as well?
 
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