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I'm building a B20 and managed to come up with an E head out of a '72 140. At first I was excited about the E head since it seems to have a reputation for the best flow in stock form. Now I am wondering if the compression ratio will be too high.

If I deck the block to get 0.035" squish, my compression ratio would be about 10.8 or 10.9:1 (assuming 45cc combustion chambers on the E head).

I also have a late model F head ('74 I believe). Should I use this head and shave it down to get a little lower compression ratio? As I understand 10:1 or slightly below is a good target (any suggestions here?)

I plan to use the Isky VV71 cam with SU carburetors, dual downpipe exhaust manifold, and 2" exhaust.
Head work will be a three angle valve job and some mild DIY porting in the exhaust.
I live at 7,000 feet elevation, so 91 octane is the highest I can get around here. I don't mind buying premium gas.
 

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Might be smart to confirm - 1972 B20 would typically be an F head if it's a US market car. Lots of time between then and now that things may have been swapped, though..

Cameron
Portland
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's definitely an E head.
I was going by memory on the year, but it is actually marked a '71 when I double checked. I confirmed by the casting marks and measurements.
It is stripped of valves and needs seats.

The CR would be just under 10.5:1 if I don't deck the block. Then the squish is about 0.050.

So, should I build with an E head at 10.5:1 or higher, or get my F head milled to something closer to 10:1?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wow, crickets chirping....

Isn't someone going to chime in and tell me detonation will blow this engine up?
I know what the safe answer is, but I sure would like to use the E head.
 

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This "Pushrod Performance Forum" is very sleepy,

Swedespeed is an excellent Forum for restoring the old RWD Volvos to stock, and for the newer FWD cars.

Have you read all the articles on Phil's website

http://vclassics.com/archive/index.html

Also there are some posts on TurboBricks regarding B20's, Rebuilding, and trying to optimize the head configuration

JUst for laughs have a look at this thread, I wonder if that was a rental apartment and if he lost his security deposit for the soiled carpet

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=308177&highlight=B20*Head
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That stuff on vclassics.com is internet gold. Reading through that and all the forums is what got me this far.
I'm having Rhys at Island Automotive rebuild some carbs, and he reassured me that the CR should be OK with my conditions. He suggested possibly going larger on the exhaust (2-1/4").

Rebuilding in an apartment is probably better than where I did my first engine. At 16 I rebuilt an air cooled VW in my dads cabinet shop, dust everywhere! It only took me two tries to get it right, I put in the wrong size rod bearings the first time! It ran great, but clattered like a blender full of bolts on deceleration. I probably drove it at least 200 miles before pulling it out. It took me a while to figure out what was wrong. On the plus side, I got to the point where I could drop and tear down a VW engine in under two hours!
 

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Yes that is good stuff at vclassics.com He is a frequent poster here, Phil Singer

Also the person that first replied to you here Cameron AKA VolvoRelix has quite a few articles on Phil's website, so seems you may pretty much be up to speed.

I have a pair of Rhys Rebuilt HIF6's on my B20B powered '73 142.

https://www.sucarburetors.com/

Where are you located? In Canada ? I used to live on Vancouver Island, but now I've immigrated to the USA and live in Florida. A lot of guys in the USA use Joe Curto for service and rebuild of S.U. Carbs, however when you mentioned Rhys, made me suspect that you are a fellow Canuck.

http://joecurto.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm in Colorado, but I actually travel to Canada for work pretty often.
I went with Rhys because of turnaround time, and I recognized his name from the Volvo forums.
 

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Who would you all use to build a B20 head? It seems that Unitek is no longer operating or at least, that OJ Rallye isn’t importing their stuff. A John Parker head perhaps? I’m trying to build a MPPE type engine and am unable to do a tear down at this movement. I wanted to start with a head and cam.
 

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Do not send any money to JP, lots of threads here and elsewhere on the internet as to why

for example

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?492097-V-Performance-John-Parker-Warning

So having said that, I asked around a few years ago and it seems that all the good Volvo B20 Head guys have sailed into the sunset.

You could contact Eric at HiPerformance in Torrance California and see if he knows anybody,

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/

or perhaps Cameron or Phil know someone that they can recommend.

Yes, there are some specific things that can be done with the exhaust port floors to squeeze out a few extra HP's but ...

... any GOOD shop that is familiar with OHV 4 cyl Engines (MG, Euro Fords, Lotus) can Deck the head, put in hardened seats, new valve guides and clean up the ports. Restoring to stock (+ hardened seats) will result in a great step forward.

Some information here http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/PERFORMANCE_TUNING_B_18_SERIES_VOLVOS.pdf

That along with induction and exhaust improvements will give you a sporty experience.

One note on the Exhaust, using the stock manifold and twin downpipe, some document from the period recommends extending the twin down pipes past the bend and into a 2" tube and flange to mate with the new 2" exhaust.

So have a browse through this old Competition Performance document and look at the exhaust downpipe (item 13) in the beginning of section 2

http://volvo1800pictures.com/docume...ts and Equipment Catalog No 7771017-6 _sm.pdf
 

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I can’t do the longer headpipe as I need the collector closer for my oxygen sensor bung. I’m having a twin port manifold ceramic coated now and the first two lengths of a Don Thibaukt 2” sport exhaust done as well. There’s currently a no name header that I don’t care for, that seems to do little for performance and lots for leaking and hitting speed bumps.
 

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Ordered a camshaft from them about 8 months ago. Fairly quick and easy transaction, had it in under two weeks. TinusTuning is another to look into.
 

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How was the cam? I’m looking for a built head and cam. It seems that most grinds are older designs. There’s a roller cam, but you have to get the block machined to fit the oversized bearings.
 

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There’s a roller cam, but you have to get the block machined to fit the oversized bearings.
Who is making and selling these cams? I have a line boring machine and can do my own block here in the shop for a new racing motor I'm building.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Google "kgtrimning" and "tinus tuning".
kgtrimining has a nice English translation. You can find your away around tinus tuning with google translate.
Both have a ton of incredible pushrod Volvo parts. I don't see a roller cams anywhere, but they both have high performance lifters.
I ordered some forged pistons and H-beam rods from kgtrimning.
 

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Google "kgtrimning" and "tinus tuning".
kgtrimining has a nice English translation. You can find your away around tinus tuning with google translate.
Both have a ton of incredible pushrod Volvo parts. I don't see a roller cams anywhere, but they both have high performance lifters.
I ordered some forged pistons and H-beam rods from kgtrimning.
I've ordered from both, Tinus has especially great customer service, just mind the time zone delay.
 

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Which cams/head did u use? The Tinus tt3 sounds great, the tt4 has a YouTube vid and it sounds like it idles a bit rough.
 

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I ordered a TT4 and sold the engine before I had a chance to enjoy it but the new owner put it in a P1800 and really likes it. The B20 block/head were very mild, 9.5 to 1, nothing too crazy.
 
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