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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well it's been awhile but I just picked the boat motor up from the machine shop. What I ended up with is the block and head from the boat with the 6 bolt crank and pistons from a car motor.
The machine shop had to drill a few holes in the head because the cooling system on a boat head is not the same.( I went with the boat head because it already had hardend valve seats)
The pistons (from the car B20) were .030 over and in nice shape but the block was cracked so he bored the boat block .030.
Also he rounded up the parts to put it back together I still have go though and make sure I have everthing needed.
Any tips on putting this together? I have done rebuilds before but if you guys have any Volvo tips please let me know.

Also I sent a spare pair of SUs off for a rebuild. I am driving the 66 wagon now but the carbs leak a bit and the throttle shafts are loose. Went with sucarbs.com on those. I can't wait for the carbs to get here !



Oh can I get a spray can of paint somewhat the right color for this?
 

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Let us know how satisfied you are with sucarbs.com. A member here asked me the other day if I knew anything about them so I'm sure he would like to know about your experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll be out of town the next two weeks hopefully the carbs will be here when I get back. I'll be outting them on the B18 in the wagon right away. I'll let you'all know how they turn out.
Not in a big hurry on the B20 since it's cold in the garage this time of year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
All I can add now about SUcarbs.com is I phoned and chatted with Dana for awhile before sending my carbs. Very nice and helpful guy even when I asked stupid questions. A rare thing these days.

I was going to do the carbs myself.( always have) The kits with everything including bushings are about $175. I'm pretty handy so I thought I'd figure a way to drill for the bushings in a drill press. What stopped me was (believe it or not) CARB CLEANER ! My brother had a can of NAPA carb dip and the stuff just flat doesn't work. The stuff we used to get would clean or melt anything you put in it. The new stuff smells just as bad but doesn't work.
Then I saw Dana's site he get's $325 do do a pair of Volvo SUs. (325-175=150 ) So I figured by the time I screw around trying to clean these things and then maybe wreck them on the drill press 150 bucks to have a pro do it was cheap !
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh anyone know if I can get something close to the right color red for that motor? I'm a little color blind so red is red to me but I'd like it close. And it has to be a spray can since I got out of the painting buisness years ago and don't have a spay gun or air commpressor anymore.

Thanks.
 

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Oh anyone know if I can get something close to the right color red for that motor? I'm a little color blind so red is red to me but I'd like it close. And it has to be a spray can since I got out of the painting buisness years ago and don't have a spay gun or air commpressor anymore.

Thanks.
I have used International Harvester Red tractor paint in a spray can from CarQuest and it looked like this:



I was really surprised at how well it has held up too, even with it leaking badly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
IH or Ford red thanks guys.
Last motor I did was a 7.3 diesel from a pickup. I sprayed that with Rustolem Hard Hat by far the best spray bomb paint I've ever used. Although it's not high temp it held up great.
 

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Next I'll be trying POR-15 Ford red. It's a brush on paint but this engine will be getting painted outside of the car. Hope it works!
 

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I've used the Dupli-Color caliper paint and wheel paint with great results. Been wanting to try POR-15 on some trouble spots on my '70 F250 to see if I can slow/stop rust. I hear it works awesome.
 

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The Plasti-kote #206 is exactly, exactly, exactly a match for the factory color. Duplicolor Ford Red is a tiny bit off, but you really have to look hard to see it. I use either -- the Plasti-kote is hard to come by where I am.
 
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