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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Starting about two years ago, most of the GEN 1 cars I've bought have had low voltage to the battery and in every case it was the B cable, the long cable that runs under everything and takes a good hour to hour and a half to replace.<br>The cable corroded and it loses the ability to carry 13.5 volts to the battery and eventually you wind up with a dead battery.<br>Many are fooled thinking they need an alternator when all they need a replacement cable.<br>Do yourselves all a favor, if your cables are original you most likely need new ones or at least the one B cable.<br>Do a battery load test, this is the easiest way to find out.<p>What I didn't know is there is a TNN that apparently came out in about 2003-2004 that specifically addressed this problem.
 

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Dumb quesiton to an answer I should know .... <p>What is the B cable ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: (Chilled Man)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Chilled Man</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dumb quesiton to an answer I should know .... <p>What is the B cable ? </TD></TR></TABLE><br>Well, let's see.<br>We have a A cable and a B cable coming off the battery.<br>If it's not the A cable, then it must the B cable! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>Seriously,<br>It's the longer battery cable running from the battery to the fuse box routing under the battery tray and airbox
 

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Re: "B" battery cables (JRL)

Mine turned out to be the alternator, which is also prone to dying after ten years. I did check the battery cables hoping that would be the case (cheaper repair), but the connection to the fuse panel shows no corrosion and the cables checked out okay.<p>Like your new signature- looks like you finally found a year and model that you like! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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There is a TNN available on replacing this cable.<p>I have it at home somewhere but it describes the whole procedure very clearly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: (Big Will)

Whatever, the statement stands.<br>I would guess that 99 out of 100 of these are bad by now if they haven't been replaced and it would be a good idea for every owner to <B>carefully</B> look at theirs and do a battery load test
 

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Re: (JRL)

<br>Good tip. My is about shot for sure, it's on the to-do list.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>JRL</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2000 V70R Olive Green 140,600 miles, A REAL NICE ONE, FOR SALE.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Where'd you get this one? Do you have pics or an ad somewhere??? I always like to see another Olive... <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (Bearclaw)

1st ad is here and on V70R.com. LOOK<br>Next ad will come after it's all finished
 

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Re: (Big Will)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Big Will</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a TNN available on replacing this cable.<p>I have it at home somewhere but it describes the whole procedure very clearly.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Could you please post the part # for the replacement cable?<p>I'm assuming this is for the negative (ground) lead that terminates at the inside fender and at the transmission. Mine is broken off at the lug on the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (Runamok)

The line terminates at the fuse block I belive it's the positive, hence RED wire! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>It's the <B>RED line</B><br>(I don't know the PN just ask for <B>B cable)</B><br>"A" cables rot too
 

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Re: (JRL)

What is the customary amount of labor (time) Volvo figures for this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (Bearclaw)

Hour and a half+ to 2 hours.<br>There IS a lot of removal and reinstall to remove what the line runs UNDER and though.<br>Real life time for someone who does this every day, probably an hour
 

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Re: (JRL)

Not sure why you said "whatever." I was just saying that this is a known issue and there's "official" info available with a break down of how to do it. <p>It's a good tip. I need to replace mine. I've had the kit to do so for a while now...maybe this weekend sometime.<br> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: (Big Will)

Kit?<br>It's a long red cable, I have one sitting on my desk
 

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Re: (Big Will)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Big Will</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure why you said "whatever." I was just saying that this is a known issue and there's "official" info available with a break down of how to do it. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>I think he was replying to my post about my problem being the alternator.<br>
 

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Re: (JRL)

Yea Jim it's laughable - you can get the cable, a few zip ties, Volvo branded electrical tape, and the Volvo electrical contact grease (a huge bottle that will last a lifetime).<p>It's really worth it for the Volvo branded electrical tape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: "B" battery cables (JRL)

More good info as I was digging for more info today on this.<br>I was told that rarely (not always, but rarely) does this problem crop up in 98s, <B>just 99s and 2000s.</B><p>In 98s the "A" cable is the one that goes south prematurely.<br>Why, I have no idea, neither did the tech but the wiring and the harness <B>is</B> completely different in ME7 cars over 4.4 Motronic cars!<p>It's real easy to check.<br>open the fuse box in the engine compartment, the one close to the firewall and look at the end of the cable (RF of the box).<br>It has a large copper connection end piece, if that connection area is burned or discolored it's started to go bad. It supposed to be nice, clean copper,<br>WITH NO DISCOLORING.
 

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Noob to Forum has same problem, can you help

Hi, I am new to this forum and am hoping one of you guys can help me out. When I start my 1999 V70 non-turbo FWD after a few minutes the size 4 positive battery cable terminal gets extremely hot where the 90 dg angle bend is in the exposed metal, can't touch it.<br>On top of this battery terminal is a threaded post to which 4 bundled size 10 or 12 red cables are connected. I looked at the main fuse box and looking where the power lug is the wires are green (corrosion) although the lug looks ok.. But I can't tell if it's all 4 wires or maybe just 2. Why would they run 4 wires to the same destination except for maybe fail-safe.<br>Anyway, can anyone tell me which wires need to be replaced? Is it a DIY job? I'm afraid to drive the car to the mechanic because the cable terminal gets so hot and I just put in a rebuilt alt and new battery. Can a jumper wire be installed temporarily from the battery to the fuse box lug?<br> Can I rule out the starter cable?<br>Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: Noob to Forum has same problem, can you help (sullivas)

It's not OK, that IS the B cable.<br>Replace both and it will be good for another 10 years<br>When you remove the airbox, MAF and the battery you will see where everything goes
 

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Re: Noob to Forum has same problem, can you help (JRL)

Thanks for the quick reply.<br>So you're saying replace the starter cable as well?<br>I don't guess there are any detailed instructions on the replacement.
 
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