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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I had this done a few years back at the dealer under warranty using the glue. It worked fine from first try and no problems whatsoever.

Now I'll have to take it apart for clutch replacement so here are a few questions for you:
1. how hard is to take it apart? Any special thing to do besides using a puller?
2. as the opinions are split between using the glue and using the XC90 bolts and I had good experience with the glue, I'm tempted to go with the glue again. What kind of glue to use?

Thanks
 

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Re: Axle ping DYI how to redo (doru)

Repeat after me: USE THE BOLTS!

Thank you.
 

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Re: Axle ping DYI how to redo (MagoonR)

Quote, originally posted by MagoonR »
Repeat after me: USE THE BOLTS!

Thank you.

+1,000,000,000,000,000.37
 

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Re: Axle ping DYI how to redo (tomedkaz)

Takes 5 minutes
 

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You can get the bolts from IPD or from Boston Volvo (I'd personally suggest Boston Volvo). Torque them to 50nm and you're good to go. It's a permanent fix as well. I mean really, glue?
 

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Re: Axle ping DYI how to redo (MagoonR)

Quote, originally posted by MagoonR »


And note who did most of the troubleshooting.

Yeah, but don't forget who still tries to take all of the credit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Axle ping DYI how to redo (llabahn)

Thanks for all advice. I know all about the bolts but that was not the intent of my post. I do not want to start yet another thread about glue vs. bolts so below is just my 2c about it to make it clear why I asked the original questions rather than trying to make any point in the glue vs. bolts debate.

The bolts are a very quick, cheap, and very convenient fix to do, that anyone with a torque wrench can do in less than 20 minutes. But in my case I'm taking the hubs apart because other work so it is really no hassle for me to do the glue again.

Why still using the glue? The bolts are not improving the fit between the axle and the hub. They do make the noise go away by using the rubber as a shock absorber slowing down the axle movement relative to the hub so the impact between the two is cushioned. In the cons side the rubber creates conditions for rust. Is the glue not worth the effort in itself compared to the bolts? Definitely yes, if you take the stuff apart only for this fix. Why the glue fails and the bolts don't? They both can fail and it depends on many factors but mostly on how big is the play in one's hub and how good of a job the technician did.

Many have said that the glue is a crazy, useless idea. But if one reads the technical docs for Loctite 638 one realizes that the glue is designed for this kind of job. I have years and tens of thousands of miles on rough roads including unpaved roads. Also because my R has MT I very often use engine brake known to repro the ping easily. Still no issue with the glue. It will be interesting how hard will be to take it apart - my first question in the first post.

About the part number I search a few hours late last night and come across this post from way back http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=40804. It lists the glue as PN:1161390. I input that in TASCA parts finder and it come back with description: REFRIGERANT R134A. This does not look right to me.

Does anyone know the correct part number? edit: correct part is 1161370

Has anyone used Loctite 638 (green stuff) and can tell how hard was to take it apart later? It looks like the joint has to be heated up to 200+ C.

edit: the Volvo stuff comes in a bottle that you use only a little bit from, and costs $30-50. It is green in color as Loctite 638

Is the Volvo stuff same as Loctite 638? It is definitely not the blue Loctite as that is designed for fasteners not for this application.

Thanks

Modified by doru at 2:32 PM 4-1-2010
 

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I agree, use the axle bolts from the XC90, its a better fix.

Why do they still use the glue?: I hate to admit it, but they glued mine at about 20,000 miles and now at 86,900 my axles are still ping free, so it obviously works some of the time. Go figure.
 

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I have the ping that you guys are talking about an I am looking to replace the bolts on my S60R with the XC90 ones. Are the bolts all the same on all 4 wheels? Also, is this the correct part number?

30714142
 

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Re: (fcpgroton)

Quote, originally posted by fcpgroton »
I have the ping that you guys are talking about an I am looking to replace the bolts on my S60R with the XC90 ones. Are the bolts all the same on all 4 wheels? Also, is this the correct part number?

30714142

Replace only the fronts.....and look here (yet again):

http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=60005
 

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Re: (fcpgroton)

Quote, originally posted by fcpgroton »

30714142

looks like the part number to me. How cheap can you guys at fcp sell em for?
 

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We have to get them direct from the Volvo dealer near by so I am not sure. To be honest, Boston Volvo normally does better on these types of things because of this reason. If we stocked them, then it would be much cheaper but the number we would have to buy would not make it worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: (adykes)

Volvo engineers make mistakes but they are not stupid.

The real fix is to make the fit between axle and hub tight as it should have been from the factory.
The partial fix is to make the noise go away.

If cost of applying the fix is out of discussion then in the proper conditions the glue fix is the real fix. In any other conditions the rubber is the only partial fix.

The right conditions have to do with how close the fit is, any issues with the geometry of the components in the area, etc. This is why on some cars the glue holds forever, on some the rubber is the only option, and on some there is no solution short of replacing both the hubs and axle with better matched ones.
 

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Re: (doru)

Quote, originally posted by doru »
Volvo engineers make mistakes but they are not stupid.

The real fix is to make the fit between axle and hub tight as it should have been from the factory.
The partial fix is to make the noise go away.

If cost of applying the fix is out of discussion then in the proper conditions the glue fix is the real fix. In any other conditions the rubber is the only partial fix.

The right conditions have to do with how close the fit is, any issues with the geometry of the components in the area, etc. This is why on some cars the glue holds forever, on some the rubber is the only option, and on some there is no solution short of replacing both the hubs and axle with better matched ones.

Volvo has a issue with making splined components fit well, that's the entire cause of the collar gear failures, poorly fitting components. Oh well.
 

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My indie (who happens to be a Volvo Master Tech) and recently started his own shop says Volvo pulled the TNN about using the updated wheel bolts. He says the reasoning was the rubber seal keeps moisture in there and accelerates corrosion.

His experience is that they have been told to stop using those bolts. Food for thought.
 

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Re: (-Pascal)

Quote, originally posted by -Pascal »
My indie (who happens to be a Volvo Master Tech) and recently started his own shop says Volvo pulled the TNN about using the updated wheel bolts. He says the reasoning was the rubber seal keeps moisture in there and accelerates corrosion.

His experience is that they have been told to stop using those bolts. Food for thought.

i have heard the same, but if they dont use either one.. what do you do
 
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