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Discussion Starter #1
I have been enjoying the ECU bump to 12psi so much that I decided to go all in and upgrade to a 16T. :)

If all goes well and UPS delivers on time, I should have a 16T and the EST downpipe tomorrow. What install tips can you guys recommend for removing the turbo and manifold?

I have a S60R manifold that I'd like to install and I'm wondering if after removing the downpipe, if it makes sense to unbolt the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached and pull it up and out, versus trying to go out the bottom.

I have new gaskets, some anti-freeze, and a few extra studs and nuts. Anything else I should pick up?

Does anyone know the torque specs or if there is a thread somewhere that details the specifics of the install/swap?

thanks.
 

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18 ft/lbs on exhaust manifold. get new studs and bolt and attach the studs first, then gaskets then the manifold then the nuts. go to autopart store their is a black sealant (not silicone or RTV), put it all over your exhaust manifold gaskets. IPD makes a tool to get to the oil return line on a AWD like our XC's. Take apart in two pieces, turbo then manifold. on my fwd i installed the exhaust part of turbo on manifold outside the car then lifted that in. if you cant get to the bottom of your exhaust to turbo 4 bolts then take the cold side off the hot side and keep the hot side attached to the manifold.
Any thing Else?
I had a 12psi ecu then bumped to 16t and s60r manifold and it is fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks!

What is the special tool? I did not see it on the IPD site. Is it something I could pick up at Sears or auto parts store? Something other than a normal box wrench ?

Any other special tools?

I'll have it up on ramps so I'll have access top and bottom.
 

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The angle gear will annoy you. It is omnipresent. IIRC you'll want to remove the propshaft from the angle gear Chris when doing the downpipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Only the DP arrived today, so I'll have to wait on the manifold/turbo install.
 

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You would think access to the bottom would help but with AWD it sucks more.
 

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Chris, if pulling the drive/prop shaft, there may be different length bolts that were used. You must mark which holes they came out of otherwise you may end with a vibration due to the shaft being out of balance. If you previously replaced the driveshaft via Colorado(i think you may have), this will not be a concern, as they balance the driveshaft assembly and use equal length bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The prop shaft bolts are all the same length.
 

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Chris, if pulling the drive/prop shaft, there may be different length bolts that were used. You must mark which holes they came out of otherwise you may end with a vibration due to the shaft being out of balance. If you previously replaced the driveshaft via Colorado(i think you may have), this will not be a concern, as they balance the driveshaft assembly and use equal length bolts.
As are OEM bolts, all the same length
 

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You may also not need to remove the oil drain from the turbo cartridge. It should pull out with the turbo. Installation may be another matter though...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
it looks like the OEM down pipe will not come out without removing the prop shaft :( The sway bar also cuts into the space.

Is there a good lift point at the rear center? I've got the front up on ramps and want to suspend the rear wheels so I can turn the prop shaft.
 

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Yup, the bottom of the rear subframe is very thick aluminum and I've lifted my car many times using it. It's a great jack point and dead center between the two rear wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Taking my time for about three hours on a set of ramps and the install was complete. I was able to remove the dp without removing the prop shaft - it slide out without any issues and plenty of clearence. :thumbup:

The hardest part was breaking the rear exhaust hanger off. Fortunately, I was able to get one bolt out and bent the bracket, both bolts were more or less rust fused to the clamp.

The exhaust tone is a bit deeper and louder. I went around the block to check for exhaust leaks and rattles, and so far it appears ok. A little burn in smell and smoke but other than that, no issues or idiot lights yet. I need to double check on the O2 sensor wires to see how they sit. Now, the front sensor comes down behind the turbo (driver's side) versus across the back of the exhaust manifold to the passenger side. The extension to the rear sensor could be a few inches longer. This would allow the wire to route inside the exhaust tunnel, as it is now, it is tight along the bottom.







Using both OEM exhaust hangers pulled the pipe too far to one side, so I used a generic hanger from the tool box.
 

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Use all new hardware.
Make it a one time job, bolts, gaskets, etc are cheap vs labor so replace them as much as you can.

Torque everything to spec.

Take frequent breaks, double check everything.

Drag it out as much as you can - you'd be surprised how well the human brain works subconsciously when you remember a day later that you forgot something or could've done something better. Sleeping on a problem and coming back to it always helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Good tips. Thanks.

I sprayed PB Blast on last night and I think that helped. The heat shield and DP bolts came undone easily.
 

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Impressed that you installed that without removing the prop shaft Chris. Nice work. How much clearance do you have between the prop and the DP? On my TME I have 1/4" optimistically! That's what TME spec'd it for and clearance is clearance but it is close.

As said above, in the future you can raise the rear of the car by jacking up under the rear diff where the subframe cuts under it. Use a piece of wood to distribute the force but it's a strong jacking point.
 

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As are OEM bolts, all the same length
I'm confused, I had read that the factory used different length bolts to balance the driveshaft, and when I pulled the one on my R, there were some with different lengths.
 

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Yes that's correct. Some Volvo Driveshafts had balancing "issues" and so Volvo had a number of different weight screws to fix the issue. Some of us are lucky and have driveshafts that use only the standard bolts (though you should still mark the flange when R+Ring).
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Turbo and misc items have been sitting at FedEx since last Thursday!! :facepalm:

FedEx claimed they attempted to deliver Thursday but claimed no one was available - we always have a receptionist on duty and no one called my phone. UPS is much more efficient and this is just another reminder why I don't like using FedEx.

It is so pretty. :)



 
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