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Hi. 98 V70 GLT. I need to change the trans fluid. I have a question about the procedure. I need to remove the auto trans low pressure line from the radiator. I belive it's on the drivers side but I don't know if it is the top or bottom line. Anybody know?<br>Thanks for any help,<br>Eric
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (sserh)

I'd assume it'd come from the top and drain out the bottom, but why are you removing a hose to drain the fluid? Isn't there a drain plug or can't you drop the pan? That's the two common ways to do it. Unless your way gets the torque converter somehow...
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (Majisto)

That is just why he is doing it. Very easy and way better then trying to drop the pan. Just open the line and connect one to a BIG waste bucket and the other to a Bigger bucket of new fluid and let the eng do the work. Fills and flushes as it goes. And yes it gets almost all the OLD fluid out of the convertor. And it will flush as well the trans cooler. It will however not clean mesh screens or huge clumps in pan. If you have those you did not take care of trans in the first place. And will do more harm trying to clean screen, then letting it just die in a few years. At that point a trans shop is only place you should have been anyway. Main purpose is to get fresh fluid in often as a DYI, not ROTO ROOTER what you neglect and think will be a magic pill. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (Nato740)

But there's still no drain plug on the pan? More companies need to do this. The idea of a sealed transmission with life-time fluid is hilarious.
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (Majisto)

is this the same tranny as in a 99 s80? if it is, what kind of fluid does it take, exactly?
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (99S80man)

Takes whatever the owners manual tell you to put in that year. If it is DexIII then that is it. If it is 7126 that is it. If it is 2456 that is it. The newer number types are almost always SYNTH type. And designed to meet different transmission specs for the type of clutch and bands used in it. Also sometimes a newer number supercedes the older one. It will tell you that on the bottle thou. Like say the if you only find a 7521 fluid and it tells you that it supercedes the 7126. That would be sorta like when the DexI got made into a DexII and then DexIII. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (Majisto)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Majisto</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But there's still no drain plug on the pan? More companies need to do this. The idea of a sealed transmission with life-time fluid is hilarious.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>There is a drain plug on the transaxle but only lets out a few quarts. The method I used twice on these cars was to drain what was in the transaxle first, refill, and then disconnect the hose from the transaxle and pump until you see bubbles, refill, and pump until the fluid runs clean. A clear plastic hose clamped to the trans fluid line is very helpful as are some spare clips that attach the trans fluid line as they break easily. You will use around 12 quarts.
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (Wayne T5)

Wayne you could do it that way. But really that is in some ways a waste of fluid to a point. And mixing of old and new with leaving some old still in. The way we talked about above is best and easiest by far. Where you use two hoses and two buckets, one with new fluid and one to catch the old nasty stuff. Then just start car and let it do all the work. Also carefully sit in car or have someone do this too. Shift from park to all the gears and back to park again slowly with your foot on brake. That will even more so make sure that you flush most(if not all) of the old fluid/gunk out of the valve body and servos of the trans. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>P.S as a side note, many cars have a totally seperate FINAL DRIVE or Diff Unit from the trans. So if yours does then you must drain/fill it as well manually. Some are filled with gear oil, some use trans fluid. And some that do use the trans as its fluid supply tend to have a baffle/inner parts that keeps some fluid in them. So care must be use to get it all out or at least look for it. The OLD real SAAB's had this funny way of doing things. The trans fluid WAS the crank case OIL. But the Diff was a stand alone unit with its own lube I recall. <BR><BR>
<i>Modified by Nato740 at 10:14 AM 5-6-2006</i>
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (Nato740)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Nato740</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ...use two hoses and two buckets, one with new fluid and one to catch the old nasty stuff. Then just start car and let it do all the work... </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Isn't there an air vent on top of the tranny? If there is, that would break "suction" on the return line and prevent pick-up of the new fluid. No?<br> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (ljjones)

Not aware of a airvent per-sa on a auto box. More often on a stick yes. But anyway the dip stick tube on a auto box would create a air leak/vent in that case as well. If that were true like you suggest. And then no Auto Trans would work ever. For the most part what you are doing is letting the trans self pump the fluid in and out. As if it were going down the road like it was designed to do anyway in its closed loop fluid use. Just your NOT driving and your bypassing or DETOURING the old fluid out and picking up new fluid after it goes into the trans cooler flushing it. Where it then pulls fresh stuff and goes on to the trans. Hope that made sense. As it is easier to explain it on a car in front of you then to OVER THINK it in text. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (Nato740)

Sure, it works fine in normal operation of the car. I was objecting to opening the system with the two hoses you suggest, and trying to "suck" new fluid up out of an open container.<br>The tranny case would have to be "air-tight" for that to work, and I'm just not sure it is.<p>"Air-tight" is not a requirement for normal car operation because the pump "pushes" fluid back into the pan via the return hose. No "sucking" required. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>(Those "fluid exchange" ATF service machines have a diaphragm between the incoming and outgoing fluid chambers so that "positive displacement" pushes the new fluid into the tranny as the old fluid is pumped out.) <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (ljjones)

Sadley if the pump pushes it also sucks. So unless you open the line and go out for a beer an then come back an hour later. You would not lose PRIME in the line that you had to teh pump before you opened it. Very little air will get in, and the air that does will be of no big deal. As once the hose is in the bucket of fresh fluid a vaccum effect will occur and a prime will be kept or a massive bleed down will be stopped. Hense starting the car will restart the loop and pump fluid in and out. The only possible thing that might be said for air in system would be after you finish. You might wish to check the fluid dipstick level to make sure it is not over full or under filled by a QT or less maybe.
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (Nato740)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Nato740</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sadley if the pump pushes it also sucks...</TD></TR></TABLE><p>It only sucks fluid until the pan is empty. As we will see, the fluid in the pan will be replaced by AIR if there is a vent to atmospheric pressure from the pan.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Nato740</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You would not lose PRIME in the <B>line</B> that you had to the pump before you opened it... </TD></TR></TABLE><p>When the pan empties, the <B>pump</B> will lose it's PRIME.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Nato740</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...once the hose is in the bucket of fresh fluid a <B>vaccum effect</B> will occur and a prime will be kept... </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Here's why there is no "vacuum effect" and the pan won't be refilled: The return line just empties fluid into the pan. It is <B>not</B> connected directly to the pump inlet. If the pan is vented to atmospheric, there can be no <B>vacuum effect</B> in the pan. It's like sucking on a straw with a hole in the middle.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Nato740</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...Very little air will get in, and the air that does will be of no big deal... </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Air <B>will</B> get in. Not by the hose, but through the vent or dip stick tube. As soon as the pressure in the tranny case tries to go below atmospheric (which would be necessary to 'suck' fresh fluid up from the bucket) it will be re-equalized to <B>atmospheric</B> via the vent. Hence no vacuum.<p>Since the air pressure on the fluid at both ends of the pick-up hose is atmospheric, the only force acting on the fluid is gravity. The levels in both vessels will tend to equalize by liquid flowing towards the lowest level. And the lowest level is that bucket of fresh fluid sitting on the garage floor! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>All the above is the reason tranny flush machines have two closed chambers with a diaphragm in between. Fluid pumped out of the tranny forces fresh fluid back in without depending on air pressure. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>If you don't have a flush machine, use the method of Wayne T5 above. He got it right. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"><p>EDIT: If you DO go to a place with a flush machine, watch out for the words "power flush" or "back flush". Those machines are self powered and can be bad news for your seals. What you want is the passive "fluid transfer console" type that lets the transmission do the pumping. That's just as safe as the method Wayne T5 and Volvo recommends. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p><br><i>Modified by ljjones at 4:27 PM 5-14-2006</i><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by ljjones at 4:28 PM 5-14-2006</i>
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (ljjones)

The XC.com site has a good post with great photos of a DIY Auto Trans fluid change with step by step instructions.Check it out! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (ljjones)

Ok then do not do it then ljjones. Since you must work for the flush machine company then. And since I guess i got/understood maybe more out of HS physics. For the rest of you thou, I saw the mech that flushed my trans in my 965 a month ago do just this. And it works. And the last time I had my rear main seal (the factory one form 6/91) at 148,000 on the 744 replaced he as well opened the line at teh radiator and stuck hoses on them. Both in two buckets and started teh car and sucked new fluid in and pumped old fluid out. And then reconnected teh line and topped it up a hair to teh full mark while running. Ok then lets move on shall we!. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>BTW I never said air would not get in did I? Just that it is not as BIG a deal nor cause a problem anything like you suggest if it did get the small amount it would in. And again as long as you (you might thou so whom knows) do not go out for a beer and leave a OPEN (mostly the supply line SUBMERGED in the new fresh fluid really) line NOT in the two buckets it WILL NOT loose prime. I had a machine flush also done by the Isuzu dealer on my 98 Rodeo LS. It was done to help with a funny shifting problem. They suggested it not me. They tried while the truck was still under warrnety (at 14,000) to charge me too for it. I did not pay and it ended up needing a new trans anyway under warrenty in 2000 miles. But teh BILL they tied to make me eat as normal service work with a eng oil change too. Was just $275 alone for the power flush not the other work. THAT is BS and ljjones you are welcome to pay that and move on as well in life. I will use the cheaper and just as good way thank you very much. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by Nato740 at 9:44 PM 5-12-2006</i>
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (Nato740)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Nato740</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ...I saw the mech that flushed my trans in my 965...<p>BTW ...I had a machine flush also done by the Isuzu dealer ...just $275 alone for the power flush... </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Hey, I guess that mech should re-write the S/V70 VADIS/VIDA transmission section for Volvo! Sounds like he has a "better way". <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Sserh, If you try the two bucket method on your V70 and it works, you should check to see if your tranny air vent (p/n 9143936) is plugged up. A plugged air vent can cause pressure/vacuum build up in the transaxle and eventually lead to leaky seals.<p>Nato, $275 for a tranny flush? I think you got ripped on that one. That job goes for about $20 around here (+fluid). <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/eek.gif" BORDER="0"> It only takes 10 minutes if you have the right fittings. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (ljjones)

Again you do not read, I said I did not pay for it thou they tried. It was underwarrenty as the truck had only 14,000 on it. And with the REAL DEAL machine costing last time I heard well over $2000 with its many filters and such that are consumeable too in time. I seriously doubt any one is doing YOUR machine flush for $20. If that is just the labor plus fluids too. Or if they are, YOU would get/got took. With them doing what we are talking about here, and selling YOU a high tech SNAKE OIL explanation for a low tech smoke and mirror SHELL game. If you bothered to even think, again. That would make it a 15 min job in labor at $60 an hour even. That is less time then it would take to open the lines hook them up! and turn on the machine in most shops! let alone do the work and wait for machine to finish. Plus my $275 was the total job not just labor. I never said it WAS just the labor did I? That if you read it again means it was time using the machine and fluids used. And since I know for sure that the 4L30E GM trans/convert/lines/cooler in the Rodeo took 10 or more Qts FULL SYNTH of some type and it was like $6-$8 a qt that makes the fluid alone $60-$80. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> Keep talking and digging, this hole is looking more fun as we go along. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>$80 fluid + est 1 hour shop/machine time $70 + $125 machine fee = $275
 

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Re: Auto Trans fluid change (bobigski)

Bobigski: Thanks for the pointer to a good thread. I'm glad to see it confirms the method Volvo recommends when a fluid transfer console isn't available, and that most of us here on swedespeed use - (Nato's testimonial about what he thought he once saw a "mechanic" do to his 740 notwithstanding. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"> )<p>Nato: Hang in there, dude. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>
 
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