SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So recently I found a bit of luck and ended up with a 2004 SR M66 for free, it jumped timing and I’m pretty sure the engine is fubar. I have an 06 SR GT that has pretty much everything wrong except the engine. I’m looking to swap the 06 engine into the 04 chassis. What are some problems I could run into?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
Nothing, just swap in the 06 motor, use the 04 wiring harness, angle gear, axles and trans.

Sensors, throttle body and manifolds etc are all the same.

Turbo compressor outlet is different on the 06 so either use the 04 turbo or swap the vband compressor housing onto the 06 turbo.

Good time to do timing belt, clutch, flywheel, slave, and angle gear sleeve while everythings apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nothing, just swap in the 06 motor, use the 04 wiring harness, angle gear, axles and trans.

Sensors, throttle body and manifolds etc are all the same.

Turbo compressor outlet is different on the 06 so either use the 04 turbo or swap the vband compressor housing onto the 06 turbo.

Good time to do timing belt, clutch, flywheel, slave, and angle gear sleeve while everythings apart.
I figured it was a straight forward swap I just didn’t know if there’s issues I’ll come across during the pulls or things I should be more careful doing. Fortunately my timing belt and water pump were done less than 10k miles ago on the 06. Unfortunately I don’t have the stuff to do anything else besides swap engines. I heard going with the V-Band is the best option because it makes things easier in the long run.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,678 Posts
The 06 has the instant traction....I'd want to keep that. Not sure if that's swapping just the DEM, or if it's the entire rear-end.

Honestly, it may be easier to put the manual into the auto, than the auto's engine into the manual's chassis.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,571 Posts
Easy swap... Engine same. Do the clutch while the engine is out... Unless you know its been done and in that case I would swap cylinder heads, not the engine. The pistons don't usually get f'd by kissing the valves.

Instant traction not 100% sure on... think you need an 05 to swap the 06 DEM into... 04 computers different, not sure how much though. And really it's 1/4 a wheel rev to AWD vs 1/17th
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The 06 has the instant traction....I'd want to keep that. Not sure if that's swapping just the DEM, or if it's the entire rear-end.

Honestly, it may be easier to put the manual into the auto, than the auto's engine into the manual's chassis.
As much as I’d like to do that I’m pretty sure the 06 was in an unreported accident because the passenger strut tower is bubbles like it was hit hard and I’m not sure what else has happened to it. The 04 is really straight


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Easy swap... Engine same. Do the clutch while the engine is out... Unless you know its been done and in that case I would swap cylinder heads, not the engine. The pistons don't usually get f'd by kissing the valves.

Instant traction not 100% sure on... think you need an 05 to swap the 06 DEM into... 04 computers different, not sure how much though. And really it's 1/4 a wheel rev to AWD vs 1/17th
So you’re saying to just swap heads instead of engines because it would be easier? The block could be cracked because it was running on no coolant as well. Also as much as I’d like to do the clutch and other things I don’t have the parts and the fiancé wants her parking spot back. And I’m not supposed to have more than 2 cars on the property at a time so one really needs to go


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,571 Posts
I didn’t see the “no coolant” that engine is fubar.

The engine and trans are coming out anyway... the clutch is 20 minutes. You will need new flywheel bolts anyway. On the auto car you can remove the engine and leave the trans in. On the manual car the engine and trans are coming out. That’s a given.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I didn’t see the “no coolant” that engine is fubar.

The engine and trans are coming out anyway... the clutch is 20 minutes. You will need new flywheel bolts anyway. On the auto car you can remove the engine and leave the trans in. On the manual car the engine and trans are coming out. That’s a given.
Like I said though I don’t have a new clutch or anything. Why do I need new flywheel bolts? Also why do the engine and trans need to come out of the manual car?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,571 Posts
Like I said though I don’t have a new clutch or anything. Why do I need new flywheel bolts? Also why do the engine and trans need to come out of the manual car?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
They’re torque to yield bolts…

You can’t pull the engine out without the transmission coming too on a manual P2 Volvo because there’s really not enough space to have the clutch/flywheel assembly clear. You need like a 5” gap between the trans and engine because of how long the input shaft is. This isn’t a problem with the automatic car because you just need to clear the 1” flex plate after you unbolt the torque converter. I’ve done this several times...

You’re making a mistake not buying a clutch/flywheel kit... you literally have to do the same thing to change the clutch. At least replace the throw out bearing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
They’re torque to yield bolts…

You can’t pull the engine out without the transmission coming too on a manual P2 Volvo because there’s really not enough space to have the clutch/flywheel assembly clear. You need like a 5” gap between the trans and engine because of how long the input shaft is. This isn’t a problem with the automatic car because you just need to clear the 1” flex plate after you unbolt the torque converter. I’ve done this several times...

You’re making a mistake not buying a clutch/flywheel kit... you literally have to do the same thing to change the clutch. At least replace the throw out bearing.
What’re torque to yield bolts? I get that it’s probably a mistake but I don’t have the time to wait for it to show up or the money to get it right this moment. I’m trying to do with what I have.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,399 Posts
The flywheel bolts also have sealant on them. If you reuse them, you will likely have an oil leak
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top