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Been thinking about swapping my girltronic out to the M66 transmission. I have a few questions, I've tried searching but it's hard to do on my phone. Before everyone just says sell my car and buy a manual let me say that manuals in good shape are hard (impossible) to find around here. Plus I know and love my car (minus the transmission.)

1. Seems like I could get all the big parts fairly easy. What else is needed besides the transmission, shifter, cables, pedal assy? Do you have to change the ecu or is there a separate computer for the transmission?

2. Has anyone else done this? If so is there a thread on here covering it?

3. About how much will all the parts cost? I was thinking $2-3,000. But of it's more than that I'm just going to forget it.

All the work would be done by myself or my father. I know it will be time consuming but so would looking for another car.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I'm not an expert on this topic but I have read a thread many months ago from another member attempting to do this. Bottom line, it will be much more convenient/cost-effective for you to be patient with your R, try to find an MT to purchase, and sell your GT R, if you're still willing to. I got lucky and sold my R the day before I drove out to purchase my current MT one. Would I do this again? Never, way too risky as I didn't have money to purchase an MT R and then sell my current. I'll let others chime in that know a bit more than me but that's just my $.02. Good luck, Bryan.
 

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i would pm chilled man. i believe he might be the only person to to ever do a manual swap in a p2 volvo. there was a thread on his swap a few years ago i think, but with the forum software switch i can't find it. i'll keep looking

btw i believe it will be out of your 2-3k range. more like 5-6k. not worth it IMO
 

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I have seen an automatic G35 converted to manual and it was pain in the ass and expensive.
Bottome line, sell your automatic and find a manual is much more cost effective.
 

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Bottome line, sell your automatic and find a manual is much more cost effective.
2nd. You also have to consider resale value. If it's an enthusiast car that never came with a manual you might be adding value or at least demand for the car. Otherwise you are just converting an otherwise sound vehicle to one that every buyer would question its reliability. I wouldn't buy a transmission swapped vehicle unless it was done by a reputable shop that warrantied the work.
 

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You would need:
the shifter assembly
collar gear (I think)
The transmission.. (I believe the CV axle's are different) also most likely a harness for the reverse light
clutch pedal/master cylinder and all hoses, this will also require tapping into the brake fluid resivoir..
shifter cables (there should be no modification to slip them through the firewall),
smaller brake pedal
The small screen in the dash display that reads P R N D M/S (get the one without it)
and the most important one - a TUNE so the engine won't be like WTF WHERE IS TRANS

Oh, and the flywheel, clutch, etc... It may also require a different starter.. Not sure on that though.

I'm sure that I'm missing some things.

You're better off trading for a car with a manual already.
 

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I did this once long ago to a Opal Manta. It was so simple as all the mounts, bolt holes etc were there. With today's cars and all the electronics, it would be a lot harder. They wouldn't have all the wiring harness and leads just waiting to be connected. If they can save 1 ft of wire today, it translates into big savings for the life of the model run.

If you have to have a MT, I'd start looking at everything out there that pops up for sale. Talk to JRL as he seems to find some very nice cars from time to time. If you see a car you like, put a note on it for the owner. I did that once for a car I wanted and it worked out.
 

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I just recently met a guy who has a 2000 V70R that has been extensively modified. He swapped in a M66 into his R and it works great, the only issue he has is the tuning part, Ipd (or rather their tuning company MTE) was of little to no help when it came time to eliminate the computers transmission warning message, and the computer itself thinks that the transmission is in neutral at all times. He is looking to have Lucky write a custom tune for him sometime soon to get rid of this issue.

But basically it's possible, has been done before even on a car that never came with the M66 transmission. On our R's everything is there that you'd need, bolt holes line up, brake fluid reservoir has the nub for the slave, wiring will hook up, it's not very difficult, you just need all the parts.

Let me find out his contact information so you can ask him how he swapped in his M66.
 

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Why? Unless you really just want to attempt for $hits 'n giggles (emphasis on the $). IMO, it would be far easier and cheaper to sell the GT and buy an MT; With the internet you can search nationwide for a suitable vehicle, maybe even find a local enthusiast to check it out for you, then make arrangements for its transport to the homestead.
I jokingly told my Indy I was going to swap my caR for an MT and he was all :what:, said I was :screwy:, and started giving me all the horror stories about blown slave cylinders and hosed clutches he's encountered.
 

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Chilled Man did it several years ago, and it never got past "limp home" mode, I recall. Problem is that the ECU is programmed for cooperating with the TCU, and without the TCU, you are dead. Now, however, Lucky at ardideas.com has got the ability to retune your ECU. He already has pulled tunes of of a '01 S60 T5 and and Melville's S60R ('o4?) so he can convert the ECU to one ready for a manula trans. Even he says it might be easier to buy a MT car.

You need:
flywheel (dual mass is stock, you can use single mass)

clutch that matches the flywheel, and disc that matches the splines on the trans input shaft

pedals (from probably any S60 MT car) and linkage for the clutch and brakes (basically shaft from the pedal to the master cylinders) and this includes the sensor that tells the ECU that the clutch pedal is depressed. This is a wire that is probably NOT in the AT wiring loom, so you may have to run it separately to the ECU.

the trans cables (buy the clips that hold the cables onto the levers on the trans)

clutch master cylinder (pop the plate out of the firewall and the mast cylinder pops in, oops, you probably need a prybar to lever the brake booster out of the way) and the hose that goes from the brake master cylinder to the clutch master. Every master brake resevoir has a nipple for the clutch, you just need to cut the end off for it to convert to a MT resevoir.

clutch lines and throwout bearing

You need the section of the center console where the gearshift sits, and you need the shift linkage and the insert for the linkage in the center console. Stock is spaceball, I put in a V70 linkage and leather boot into my car, and it is quieter, and looks better.

you need a wiring diagram, because you have to figure out how to make the cruise control and back up lights work (as well as the clutch pedal position sensor) May well be that you have to buy the engine wiring harness from the same model year MT car, so that you have the wiring already set for these. (for 850 MT conversion, you have to jumper wires to get the cruise control and back up lights to work, don't know about P2 cars)

ECU tuned for MT. Lucky can do that part, and if you contact him, he can mention any part I missed.

How about a weekend or more for the conversion, not counting the cost and time for the ECU tune.

Melville has done several 850 MT conversions, and told me his first one took 24 hours, but now he has it down to 8 hours. Looks to me to be a similar process.
 

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Chilled Man did it several years ago, and it never got past "limp home" mode, I recall. Problem is that the ECU is programmed for cooperating with the TCU, and without the TCU, you are dead. Now, however, Lucky at ardideas.com has got the ability to retune your ECU. He already has pulled tunes of of a '01 S60 T5 and and Melville's S60R ('o4?) so he can convert the ECU to one ready for a manula trans. Even he says it might be easier to buy a MT car.

You need:
flywheel (dual mass is stock, you can use single mass)

clutch that matches the flywheel, and disc that matches the splines on the trans input shaft

pedals (from probably any S60 MT car) and linkage for the clutch and brakes (basically shaft from the pedal to the master cylinders) and this includes the sensor that tells the ECU that the clutch pedal is depressed. This is a wire that is probably NOT in the AT wiring loom, so you may have to run it separately to the ECU.

the trans cables (buy the clips that hold the cables onto the levers on the trans)

clutch master cylinder (pop the plate out of the firewall and the mast cylinder pops in, oops, you probably need a prybar to lever the brake booster out of the way) and the hose that goes from the brake master cylinder to the clutch master. Every master brake resevoir has a nipple for the clutch, you just need to cut the end off for it to convert to a MT resevoir.

clutch lines and throwout bearing

You need the section of the center console where the gearshift sits, and you need the shift linkage and the insert for the linkage in the center console. Stock is spaceball, I put in a V70 linkage and leather boot into my car, and it is quieter, and looks better.

you need a wiring diagram, because you have to figure out how to make the cruise control and back up lights work (as well as the clutch pedal position sensor) May well be that you have to buy the engine wiring harness from the same model year MT car, so that you have the wiring already set for these. (for 850 MT conversion, you have to jumper wires to get the cruise control and back up lights to work, don't know about P2 cars)

ECU tuned for MT. Lucky can do that part, and if you contact him, he can mention any part I missed.

How about a weekend or more for the conversion, not counting the cost and time for the ECU tune.

Melville has done several 850 MT conversions, and told me his first one took 24 hours, but now he has it down to 8 hours. Looks to me to be a similar process.
Did I miss something? You basically took what I said and made it a billion times more complicated. lol
 

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You will also need a different rear trans bracket, one that fits a M66 housing bolt pattern. This is the bracket that bolts to your trans which also bolts/supports the rear engine mount to rack.
 

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Sell it and buy a 6 sp manual
You will spend at LEAST twice what you think you will spend or will want to spend and you still have the ECU programming (which is not a given by any means) to deal with.
 

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You don't need a different cluster, the PRND123456 will just not appear.

The reverse lockout uses the same plug for the auto and manual (I think it's the gear lockout on the auto)

There is a different reverse light switch running from the transmission to the ECU.

I do believe that I have most all of the necessary parts for sale, sans tune and possibly that plug for the reverse light...
 

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TL;DR

Answer to OP's question:

1. You need to gather all the normal mechanical parts associated with an automatic-to-manual conversion. (some fabrication/metal work, lots of new and used parts including typical junkyard parts (like linkages, shifter sticks, bolts, mounts, etc... different Flywheel, different CV joints, probably a different starter...)
2. Specific to the S60 of this generation you will apparently need an ECU from a manual S60 (availability may be limited)

I realize forums are very community-oriented but I think people often forget about the question being asked in an effort to "give a helping hand"... or just want to criticize for no apparent reason.

Of all the millions of posts on the web about converting a car to a manual would it really be novel to ask it again on a specific car forum? If we are mechanically-inclined then it does not take a genius to figure out how to convert a 1960s powerglide to a manual. However, we, perhaps, forget why this question is being asked on this particular forum about this particular model in the first place. The true question below the surface is yielded to our senses: "What about the Volvo S60 may make it difficult to convert an automatic to a manual?"
Thus, the equally simple, perhaps not obvious answer is:
"Along with the typical conversion requirements in all vehicles, the ECU of the engine is linked to the TCU of the automatic transmission. There exists models with manual transmissions that have ECUs that do not require such a linkage. You will need that ECU."
This answer, of course, offers a cheaper alternative than a "custom ECU tune".. I don't know the specifics of the socioeconomic disposition on this forum but I doubt anyone here has the intention to make their fellow members spend more money than they need to. One of things that irks me much is the lessons in economics that people try to give out. For example: "it would be better just to save your money for the right model than to do all this work yourself since it's going to cost you the same". This is inherently based on a load of assumptions, however well-intentioned. Waiting for a $16,000 car to go down to $11,000 just isn't worth the money when your trade-in value is worth $500. It also assumes that the person asking the question has a car worth at least $6,000 when for all you know the person may have a transmissionless car. No matter how you skew the economics, it's always going to be more economically intelligent to spend money on a transmission than to sell a cheap shell and buy an expensive complete car. This is my point:
Just answer the question because you don't know why the OP is asking.

inb4 bringing-up-dead-posts-and-thread-is-locked: Google has tagged your thread in its results. So I'm not bringing up a dead post, Google is bringing up a dead and useless post. All I'm doing is making Google's results better by making your useless thread useful.
 

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This is an OLD post but it is always good to add to them, you never know who needs it in the future.

I am actually going to start a swap soon on my R once I get all the used parts I need.

As far as the ECU goes, you don't need to do anything special other than wiring it up like manual car and then Hilton Tuning can retune your CEM and other associated modules to act like their manual counterparts without any codes and I think he gets it so the DIM doesn't show P or D, just a blank space like manuals but I'm not sure about that.

If you have done a man swap please shoot me a PM, I think Ill make a thread on the swap for future searchers.
 
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