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So, everything's in. The amp was a tight fit and required me to relocate the amp ground to the driver side of the cargo area.

The sound is awesome. Last things to do will be to custom cutout the black spare wheel tray and then investigate a few nagging rattles coming from what I believe to be either the cargo area floor pan or the spare wheel and jack. There is about 1.5-2" of clearance between the top of the speaker grills to the bottom of the cargo floor.

This is what two JL Audio 10" sealed subwoofers (CS110LGTW1-2) and a JL Audio 750watt amp (HD750) look like under the floor cover:




Because the JL Audio HD750 amp requires a switched 12 volt input to turn the amp on a lot of effort was put into finding the best way to do this. The method I chose to use was tapping off the center console 12v accessory fuse within the fuse box in the front of the vehicle. The fuse box is under the glove box, and is the one on the left (there are two fuse boxes under the glovebox). The fuse is #22 on my 2016 XC60. I used an "add a fuse" type mini fuse tap that was purchased at a local auto part store. The fuse tap allows you to remove the existing mini fuse, then insert the tap. On the tap itself the original fuse goes in, and then you add a 2nd fuse for the device which you are powering. I used the smallest mini fuse I could find (3 amp), and then ran a small gauge wire from under the glovebox back to the amp.
Here is what that looks like:


 

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Thanks. I'll post up pics of the finished install when it's complete. The rattles are driving me crazy, so I think it's time to properly sound insulate a lot of areas of the vehicle. I'm in the Northwest Indiana suburbs of Chicago.
 

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Thanks. I'll post up pics of the finished install when it's complete. The rattles are driving me crazy, so I think it's time to properly sound insulate a lot of areas of the vehicle. I'm in the Northwest Indiana suburbs of Chicago.
@tunedxc60, I am not surprised it is rattling. I posted to you previously that because your boxes are not ported, your cargo-floor has become a passive radiator. My suggestion to you is to cut holes in the cargo floor for your speakers and use a speaker bar grill as such: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K9JXWEW/.
You have a lot of energy confined in a very small space. Opening it up will benefit you. I think it will also improve your sound quality as in your current configuration - you effectively have a one-note bass. A very loud one I am sure, but still a one-note bass.
 

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Thanks Foosy. The floor itself isn't rattling, I think its the speakers in the rear doors, or some other metal noise that is hitting some kind of resonant frequency. I'm concerned about using bars like you've shown, I'm trying to retain the stock, stealth, look.
 

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Great job! You definitely should be able to "raise the floor" with their output. I assumed you jumpered the + and - series connection with as short a cable as possible. Also I would ensure that there is a firm connection between the bottom of the amp and your floor as that will eliminate 2nd order vibrations that could impact the amp's internal components. Details like this and the method you chose to attach the boxes would be very useful for those attempting to replicate.
 

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Thanks Foosy. The floor itself isn't rattling, I think its the speakers in the rear doors, or some other metal noise that is hitting some kind of resonant frequency. I'm concerned about using bars like you've shown, I'm trying to retain the stock, stealth, look.
One thing you might consider to eliminate the bandpass loading that causes the lack of pitch definition, is to use a router (preferably a plunge style) to create a series of holes from the back of the floor panel that leaves the front cloth intact. Such holes could have enough floor material between them to the panel's ability to hold cargo. If necessary you could reinforce with some low profile cross bars below. The thickness of the floor panel material is not an issue with the frequencies you are dealing with and it would improve the quality of the bass significantly in my experience.
 

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One thing you might consider to eliminate the bandpass loading that causes the lack of pitch definition, is to use a router (preferably a plunge style) to create a series of holes from the back of the floor panel that leaves the front cloth intact. Such holes could have enough floor material between them to the panel's ability to hold cargo. If necessary you could reinforce with some low profile cross bars below. The thickness of the floor panel material is not an issue with the frequencies you are dealing with and it would improve the quality of the bass significantly in my experience.
Great idea. I'll consider it! The floor isn't very thick so it will take some precision to get through the floor but not the carpet in a nicely defined pattern. It would need a very shallow bit. One little oops and it's game over and the carpet is cut.

Right now the amp is mounted to the floor with 3m dual lock strips. Seems to be holding well and has the side benefit of a little metal on metal isolation similar to double sided mounting tape. For now the speaker boxes are just resting in there but slightly wedged against the spare tire and rear seat frame. I'll likely figure something out more permanent but right now it's not an issue.

The two 2 ohm speakers are ran in series for a final 4 ohm load on the amp. The amp is rated 750 rms but speakers are good for 300 each. I'll need to tune the gain on the amp down to the correct output voltage to limit the rms power output to 600 watts to avoid overplaying the speakers. Right now I have the sensitvity set for about 75% max and use a front mounted base knob that I have mounted in the armrest to control up or down.



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One thing you might consider to eliminate the bandpass loading that causes the lack of pitch definition, is to use a router (preferably a plunge style) to create a series of holes from the back of the floor panel that leaves the front cloth intact. Such holes could have enough floor material between them to the panel's ability to hold cargo. If necessary you could reinforce with some low profile cross bars below. The thickness of the floor panel material is not an issue with the frequencies you are dealing with and it would improve the quality of the bass significantly in my experience.
Great idea here.
I also recommend that you test the sound without the cargo floor. Not elevated, completely removed.

If the rattling continues, start by checking any possible loose items. Make sure the spare tire is tightly secured. If not sure if the tire is the cause, completely remove it. Then check the amp connection to the car. You may want to use some foam or rubber in between them. Also check the speaker boxes bracing. If none of these is the issue - it will be more complicated to determine the source of the rattling.
Good luck!
 

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Wiring for ktp-445a

Hi guys!

I'm a new member here.
I just read thir tread and started buying stuff from ebay. Now that I finally got everything I need all the images are gone!
Can someone help me? I need to know how to connect the ktp-445a

Thanks in advance and greetings from Sweden.

Regards Jonathan
 

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Hey!

Same issue here. Im new member and I can't see the images. Can someone give a link to original images? I appreciate it!


Martin
 

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I'm going to try and replicate this installation in a few months to upgrade the audio in my V60. Photobucket has blurred the images unfortunately (at least on my end) so it's hard to get a sense of the wiring harness that needs to be prepared. Let me step through the setup to see if I got this right as I never had to upgrade a system on any of my previous cars:

1) SOT-045 accessory interface leads are used to create two wiring harnesses.
2) One harness is being plugged into the audio out portion of the amp and the into the harness going to the speakers
3) The second harness is plugged into the factory harness feeding the amp and ultimately into the new Alpine amp.

That way the the factory harnesses feeding the factory amp and the speakers don't need to be cut or modified.

I hope I'm understanding this correctly.
 

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I had some time this afternoon to install the Alpine power pack. The SOT-045 harness made the wiring super easy, i can say that this was the easiest amp that i've installed. None of the factory wiring was touched, I was also able to use the built in speaker sensing function of the amp so that i did not need a remote turn on wire. The hardest part of the install was placing the new amp. I wanted to keep it right behind the factory amp like another member did on this forum, but the mess of harness and extra wire was a little bit of a pain to tuck in the right places. A quick tip: Be careful of the fiber wires located on the right side of the oem amp (they are orange). My amp is not mounted, it just happened to wedge perfectly in the space. See pics below of the installation:

De-pinning of any "extra wires"


All of the harnesses prepped and ready for soldering


The finished plug and play harness


Amp installed. This picture was taken with the seat all the way forward.



Overall impressions from a quick drive:

I'm not a audiophile or a audio expert, but the mids and highs are much more brought out from the headphones for guitar AMP. Bass seems to remain about the same which could just be a driver limit or acoustical limit of the door. I was listening to some electronic, pop, and rap when i did this quick test. So far i'm very happy with what i hear. This amp upgrade might just be the small bump that most will need to be very happy with the factory high performance speakers. Stay tuned for the speaker upgrades next week.
Bass Reflex modernization, they ensure that you don’t miss every speck of it.
 

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Another way to get better audio quality audio for your XC60 is to use a portable DAC and plug it into your 3.5mm connector. If you use Tidal or another high resolution music app from your phone, the quality of the music is a remarkable upgrade. I have the upgraded Harmon Kardon system in my XC60 and I find there is no reason to upgrade any audio components after using the portable Dac setup.

I have been upgrading audio systems in vehicles for many years and have found this to be great solution

DAC Products that I have use:

Hiby W5
Earstudio ES100
Shangling UPH-4

good luck!
 

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Hello all,

I will be attempting the Alpine Power Pack install here shortly. I actually like the sound of the High Performance system, I just would like more volume.

The amp should be here in a day or so and the SOT-045 harness is coming from the UK, so it may be a week or two for that. While the OP's posts and pictures are extremely helpful, I am looking for a dumbed-down explanation/guidance on how to properly install the amp and wire/connect the harness. I am planning on documenting my install to help others who may want to replicate this in the future.

For starters, here is a pic of the back of the factory amp under the passenger seat:

124806


There are four connectors: 1st is empty, 2nd is green and has approximately 11 wires going into it, 3rd is grey and has two wires (black and red) into it, and 4th is black and has two orange wires.

From reading this thread, I know the green connector has the wiring for the speakers but what are the others for? I am hoping the answer will help me figure out how to wire/connect the SOT-045 harness, because that is unclear to me as well.

Thanks in advance!
 

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After further research, I believe I have figured out what each of the 4 plugs on the back of the amp are for (someone please correct me if this is wrong):

1st - rear seat headphone jacks (mine is empty because I don't have that option)
2nd - speaker output
3rd - power (red) and ground (black)
4th - fiber optic data (this does not get touched)

The Alpine Power Pack has arrived; the SOT-045 harness is still on its way.

I made a chart to match up the speaker wiring since Alpine and Volvo use different colors:
124971
 

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Another update: the UK eBay seller I purchased the harness from has not responded to messages regarding providing the tracking info, so I decided to see if I could source a harness from the US. After much Googling, I found a car audio shop in Houston, TX that has the same harness the OP got: Volvo ISO T Harness Bluetooth Harness CONNECTS2 CT10VL05

I ordered the harness from them which should be here this week. I also think I figured out the routing of the harness, but cannot nail down which two wires bypass/don't go through the amp:

125073


I'm guessing one is the antenna wire (from OP's image) as that obviously would not need amplification but hopefully it will make more sense once the harness gets here.

I feel like I'm yelling into the void here (it's an old thread and an old car, I get it) but any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
Another update: the UK eBay seller I purchased the harness from has not responded to messages regarding providing the tracking info, so I decided to see if I could source a harness from the US. After much Googling, I found a car audio shop in Houston, TX that has the same harness the OP got: Volvo ISO T Harness Bluetooth Harness CONNECTS2 CT10VL05

I ordered the harness from them which should be here this week. I also think I figured out the routing of the harness, but cannot nail down which two wires bypass/don't go through the amp:

View attachment 125073

I'm guessing one is the antenna wire (from OP's image) as that obviously would not need amplification but hopefully it will make more sense once the harness gets here.

I feel like I'm yelling into the void here (it's an old thread and an old car, I get it) but any help would be appreciated.

i dont remember the details here as it's been a very long time ago and i sold all my stuff, but its very simple. your new external amp needs the 4 speaker channels and will output 4 speaker channels. any other wire that you see on the stock harness still needs to pass thru to the factory amp. This is how a T harness works.
 

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i dont remember the details here as it's been a very long time ago and i sold all my stuff, but its very simple. your new external amp needs the 4 speaker channels and will output 4 speaker channels. any other wire that you see on the stock harness still needs to pass thru to the factory amp. This is how a T harness works.
Thank you for that. It all seems so simple now that I'm getting my hands on this stuff. According to the Volvo harness image on the first page, there are 11 wires coming out of the green plug. 8 are for the speakers in the system, 2 are for the center dash speaker which is not present and one is labeled as "antenna" (red wire). So perhaps those three wires (I can only see two in your harness image) bypass the amp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
Thank you for that. It all seems so simple now that I'm getting my hands on this stuff. According to the Volvo harness image on the first page, there are 11 wires coming out of the green plug. 8 are for the speakers in the system, 2 are for the center dash speaker which is not present and one is labeled as "antenna" (red wire). So perhaps those three wires (I can only see two in your harness image) bypass the amp?
if those 3 extra wires exist on the original harness make sure that they pass thru on your T-harness.
 
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