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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
to answer your previous post, I think the improvement is a component of both box size and driver quality.
 

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JL Audio sealed 10" fits like a glove. Model is ACS110LG-TW1. It has a built in 400watt amp that i wired to the battery through the grommet under the right side floor under the dash. I was then able to run the wire up an access under the windshield near the ECU and into the battery box. This required removing the wipers and front plastic tray in the engine bay. Still waiting on the SOT045 cable from the U.K. But everything is pre run. I tested the sub with the RCA cables and it hits hard. More than enough for this vehicle . Also in case anyone wanted to know the JL dual 8's CP208 won't fit because the trunk of the XC60 has metal that comes up on the sides and prevents you from using the whole width of the trunk. I wish I would have known this before I bought the sub and dremel'd off 8-10 screw studs, relocated wires to the extreme edges, and trimmed the thick gray sound deadening.

Test fit 10" . Had to trim the strut with my dremel multimax. Btw the dremel multimax with a carbide blade took take of the screw studs easily.

Next steps are to trim the package tray carefully, tidy everything up, and when the cable harness gets here do the final adjustments into the stock premium sound system.
 

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It is great you found a pre-packaged sub solution that fits the restricted dimensions and has signal-based switching. In reviewing the specs, once the floor is laid down, the woofer's grill appears to be right up against it. This will have an effect of severely slot-loading the woofer as well as constricting its output. Have you tried it with the floor in place yet? Would be interested in what you find when you do. Running a dedicated power cable (8ga?) back to the battery is wise given the high current amp. You might also mention where you affixed the power ground for others who may attempt to use this woofer. Keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 · (Edited)
tunedxc60, do you have any more pics of the trimmed hatch floor strut? i'm curious to know how much was needed on your setup. thanks for sharing!



BTW is that a ported or sealed sub? JL's website says slot ported, but i don't see the port in the pictures.
 

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It is great you found a pre-packaged sub solution that fits the restricted dimensions and has signal-based switching. In reviewing the specs, once the floor is laid down, the woofer's grill appears to be right up against it. This will have an effect of severely slot-loading the woofer as well as constricting its output. Have you tried it with the floor in place yet? Would be interested in what you find when you do. Running a dedicated power cable (8ga?) back to the battery is wise given the high current amp. You might also mention where you affixed the power ground for others who may attempt to use this woofer. Keep us updated.
The nice part part about the TW1 series of JL Audio woofers is how the basket of the sub is set deep within the box, so that the woofer grill is very shallow and still allows for a lot of woofer excursion and at the same time maintains a slim exterior profile. I ground the strut from the floor completely smooth with my Dremel multimax tool to maximize the amount of air separation between the woofer grill and floor. I don't have the Parrot/SOT045 harness yet so haven't tested the performance with the vehicle audio, but I have tested it with my Iphone and a headphone to RCA cable setup, and I am extremely impressed. The bass performance is extremely deep and loud. I did some testing and with the sensitivity on the built in amp at 50% and Iphone volume at 50-75% it is at the point where it needs to be turned down. I noticed that with the floor panel on, and the doors and windows closed the bass performance is much better than when the hatch is up. I've heard this is because of the sealed vs. ported box when I was doing research on deciding what sub and box to use.

I'll calibrate everything 100% once I get the cable and can setup the Volvo premium sound equalizer. I'm planning on turning down the 50hz eq almost all the way and leaving the sensitivity around 50% on the sub. More to come once I get the cable on that. I actually ran a 4 gauge power cable and ground since I was debating on putting dual 10's (almost fits) that would require 600watts, so I didn't want to go cheap on the power cable (do it right , and once the first time). The downside to this is that the 4 gauge power doesn't fit very well into the amp. The JL Audio manual says to strip and push the bare cable into the power terminal, but I'm very concerned that the ground and power may touch if some loose straggler strands come out. My plan is to find a spade terminal or something similar to crimp on the 4 gauge wire so it makes a nice tight fit into the terminals or maybe even a 4 gauge to 8 gauge butt splice. More to come on that. I ended up using the ground on passenger side rear in the trunk. I believe this is what you used, near where you mounted your Rockford amp. My initial plan was to get a 500watt Alpine amp and place it there, but ended up going with the integrated amp/sub unit. To run power back from the battery to that location I used 17 feet of cable included in the amp wiring kit I bought (Metra 4 gauge kit from Sonic Electronic) would have been about perfect with maybe a foot to spare. I left the power cable long (didn't cut it short) so I can still change to an amp/sub setup down the road and not have to splice anything.

These pictures show how much clearance there is with the floor panel down.





Here's the picture of the ground.



tunedxc60, do you have any more pics of the trimmed hatch floor strut? i'm curious to know how much was needed on your setup. thanks for sharing!


BTW is that a ported or sealed sub? JL's website says slot ported, but i don't see the port in the pictures.
The box is a sealed box. I debated on the 8" ported vs. 10" sealed, and decided on the 10" sub. JL Audio calls this their Powerwedge+ line, and they are using the TW1 series sub which is a much lower profile design that their previous thin W3 line.

I had to cut almost all of the strut. I would have cut more but the deeper I cut the more it was exposing the wood, and it was starting to get patchy, so I didn't go as deep as I originally wanted to. I used my Dremel multimax and then went back and cleaned it up with a power sander and 160 grit sand paper to smooth it out as good as I could.
Here's a picture of it:




Also here's some pictures of how I cut the tray out. I first made a template out of a cardboard box of the size of the sub, and then used painters tape to mark it out. I then used my Dremel tool to cut out the side of the tape line. I tried to keep a little bit of the rear support but it was so flimsy that I decided to just cut it off.




Here's the finished product:



I just need to paint the cut carpet area black, or try to cut some spare carpet off and glue it on. I want it to look perfect.
 

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Looking good. With regards to your power cable termination, I would find the appropriate spade size with the largest gauge body you can. Then strip back an extra .5" and cut the strands to fit. Slip over a piece of shrink tubing, crimp and flow solder, heat the tubing to bridge the insulation, bare wire and spade. Since you are firing into the moveable floor, I would make sure you have the accessory floor mat that can fold to further weight and damp the floor. Since this design is effectively a bandpass one, the risk is for the bass to be "one note" and restricted dynamically (either on or off) due to the mass loading of the air spring in front. Should this be the case, you have an acoustical tuning capability allowing you to reduce the size of the "port" by framing the woofer on one to three sides attaching the frame either to the floor or the woofer cabinet.


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Update:
The 10" JL sub and box are installed, powered up, and tuned. Let me just say that the 400 watt built in amp is more than enough. At half gain to 3/4 gain it will rattle everything and force you to turn it down. The system is blended in perfectly and really lets the stock premium speakers show of their mid to highs. All in all it's a much better system now.

With the Harmon Kardon premium system I set it similar to Mark but decreased the 60hz completely on the EQ. No need to boost the low frequencies only to pass them onto the sub's amp.

EQ settings:
60 hz , full negative
200 hz, 5 clicks up
1 khz, 3khz, 12khz flat

Bass and treble set to flat
Fade/balance centered
DPL II surround: ON
Gain : - 2 clicks
Center speaker: + 3 clicks

Specific to my 10" JL Audio sub and and sealed box with 400 integrated amp, I have the high pass filter set around 75hz, and the gain at 50%.

The system is balanced perfect. Only issue for those considering a 10" sealed box is that the parcel floor will rattle unless you figure out how to keep weight on it or put rubber dampers on the edges. As Mark pointed out there's a lot of air moving under there and it actually caused the floor to rise up. The sound and tone is good - similar to when the floor is removed. If I had a ported box I'm not sure if it would be better since some of he air would be going out of the port but I'm sure this problem can be fixed. I'm considering lining the edge of the parcel floor with Dyanamat, or finding some type of rubber strip to dampen it.

Forgot to add..
For those ordering the SOT 045 or CT10VL05 wiring harness to tap the front speakers at the amp the price I paid in the US was $30 on Ebaywith free shipping from a U.K. Seller. The delivery took 3 weeks. Keep that delivery time in mind.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Update:
The 10" JL sub and box are installed, powered up, and tuned. Let me just say that the 400 watt built in amp is more than enough. At half gain to 3/4 gain it will rattle everything and force you to turn it down. The system is blended in perfectly and really lets the stock premium speakers show of their mid to highs. All in all it's a much better system now.

With the Harmon Kardon premium system I set it similar to Mark but decreased the 60hz completely on the EQ. No need to boost the low frequencies only to pass them onto the sub's amp.

EQ settings:
60 hz , full negative
200 hz, 5 clicks up
1 khz, 3khz, 12khz flat

Bass and treble set to flat
Fade/balance centered
DPL II surround: ON
Gain : - 2 clicks
Center speaker: + 3 clicks

Specific to my 10" JL Audio sub and and sealed box with 400 integrated amp, I have the high pass filter set around 75hz, and the gain at 50%.

The system is balanced perfect. Only issue for those considering a 10" sealed box is that the parcel floor will rattle unless you figure out how to keep weight on it or put rubber dampers on the edges. As Mark pointed out there's a lot of air moving under there and it actually caused the floor to rise up. The sound and tone is good - similar to when the floor is removed. If I had a ported box I'm not sure if it would be better since some of he air would be going out of the port but I'm sure this problem can be fixed. I'm considering lining the edge of the parcel floor with Dyanamat, or finding some type of rubber strip to dampen it.

Forgot to add..
For those ordering the SOT 045 or CT10VL05 wiring harness to tap the front speakers at the amp the price I paid in the US was $30 on Ebaywith free shipping from a U.K. Seller. The delivery took 3 weeks. Keep that delivery time in mind.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very nice, it sounds like your sub is pushing more air at the floor or being ported makes a difference as my floor does not rattle. the only thing i keep on top is the oem mat. EIther way i think the dynamat will help, maybe dynamat the whole floor?


Did you have any issues with the amp's auto turn on feature?

Also how did you mount the sub to the car? I still haven't bolted mine down as the weight of the floor and the parcel tray seem to keep it from going anywhere, but i'd like it to be secured in case of a accident.
 

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PIN 6, mine is vacant just like yours as shown. How did you come to the conclusion that it provides switched 12v? Is this switched 12v as an output from the amp, or from an alternate version of this connector harness with the 12v switched being fed from the other end?
 

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Just a quick FYI. I was able to get the harness from Car Audio Direct, a U.K. Outfit. The harness is put together by Connects2.


Happy Motoring, your mileage may vary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Yeah, I got the same one off Ebay. I've been using it for a month or so, with no issues, but now I got a new amp that requires switched 12v. When I originally hooked up the harness I didn't connect this wire, and just left it short and taped it. I anticipated this problem sometime down the road if I got a new amp that didn't use speaker audio sensing as a remote turn on, so I pre-ran a wire from the cargo area to the factory amp under the passenger seat. In a perfect world I would be able to find a switched 12v off the amp, and just splice it together. This would avoid having to use a line output converter just to get the 12v remote turn on, and then having to find constant power in the cargo area for it to switch. I noticed in bhom920's post that he labeled pin 6 as +12v switched, but based on my testing I'm not getting any voltage out of the factory amp on that pin, and then factory harness that plugs into it had that pin removed, and there was no wire on it. In all of the manuals I read I didn't see any mention of pin 6, so I can't tell if it's supposed to be an output or input from the harness or the amp itself.
 

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Yeah, I got the same one off Ebay. I've been using it for a month or so, with no issues, but now I got a new amp that requires switched 12v. When I originally hooked up the harness I didn't connect this wire, and just left it short and taped it. I anticipated this problem sometime down the road if I got a new amp that didn't use speaker audio sensing as a remote turn on, so I pre-ran a wire from the cargo area to the factory amp under the passenger seat. In a perfect world I would be able to find a switched 12v off the amp, and just splice it together. This would avoid having to use a line output converter just to get the 12v remote turn on, and then having to find constant power in the cargo area for it to switch. I noticed in bhom920's post that he labeled pin 6 as +12v switched, but based on my testing I'm not getting any voltage out of the factory amp on that pin, and then factory harness that plugs into it had that pin removed, and there was no wire on it. In all of the manuals I read I didn't see any mention of pin 6, so I can't tell if it's supposed to be an output or input from the harness or the amp itself.

My stock connector on my high performance 2010. Ten wires, eight for speakers. Other two I simply connected. So far so good in my volvolicious.


Happy Motoring, your mileage may vary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for the picture. I see you opted to simply leave that pin 6 vacant. It doesn't appear to be needed. I assume your subwoofer amp is using speaker level sensing to turn on?
 

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No no no. The pic is the factory connector. All it uses is ten wires. I have no sub. Just a new amp for front.


Happy Motoring, your mileage may vary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
PIN 6, mine is vacant just like yours as shown. How did you come to the conclusion that it provides switched 12v? Is this switched 12v as an output from the amp, or from an alternate version of this connector harness with the 12v switched being fed from the other end?
I must have labeled this as a mistake. I think i got this from the parrot harness. I did not use it or test it after finding out the auto turn on worked perfectly.
 

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I must have labeled this as a mistake. I think i got this from the parrot harness. I did not use it or test it after finding out the auto turn on worked perfectly.
Thanks. I'm planning on just purchasing a cheap Scosche line output converter today and taking the output from the factory amp and splicing the left channel audio to the input of the converter in parallel with the cable that goes to my subwoofer amp left channel input. I've already got a wire from the passenger seat to the rear, so I'll plan on placing the line output converter under the seat and spicing the output from the line output converter to the subwoofer amp remote turn on wire. Just need to find constant low current 12v somewhere in the passenger seat area. I suppose I could always use a scotch lock on the 12v lighter plug in the center console. I was entirely trying to avoid splicing into factory wiring, but it seems to be the option at the moment.
 

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Imho, I would jury rig one of the aftermarket connectors and try not to splice original.


Happy Motoring, your mileage may vary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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There might be a switched 12v in the cargo fuse block. I know Autozone sells the "add a fuse" fuse taps. That would be ideal. I'm looking at the fuses there now.
 

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Unless something has changed electrically in the last couple of years, you will not find any switched 12v lines in the rear. This is not how switching is handled in these Volvo's. 12v is maintained everywhere with electronic ground-based switching.


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Mark, I took the long way around to realize that. I did find the fuse box under the glove box #21 (5 amp), and #22 (15 amp) are switched 12 volt. #21 is "laminated panoramic roof, Courtesy Lighting, climate system sensor" and #22 is "12-volt sockets in tunnel console". What was weird was that my meter was reading .489 volts to ground (measured off a bolt on the door, and off the seat bolt). So I'm not sure if my meter was picking up stray voltage or if truly in fact it switches between a half a volt and 12 volts when ignition is on. I'll use an add a fuse like this : http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIT3/FHA200BP.oap?ck=Search_fha200bp_-1_-1&keyword=fha200bp to switch the ground. I'll put something small, like a 3amp fuse on the wire going to the remote lead.

I'm also having to relocate my amp ground to the driver side, because the large JL Audio HD750 amp won't fit in the passenger rear cargo area very well without some adjustments.

A lot of effort for custom, but it will look great in the end.
 
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