The nice part part about the TW1 series of JL Audio woofers is how the basket of the sub is set deep within the box, so that the woofer grill is very shallow and still allows for a lot of woofer excursion and at the same time maintains a slim exterior profile. I ground the strut from the floor completely smooth with my Dremel multimax tool to maximize the amount of air separation between the woofer grill and floor. I don't have the Parrot/SOT045 harness yet so haven't tested the performance with the vehicle audio, but I have tested it with my Iphone and a headphone to RCA cable setup, and I am extremely impressed. The bass performance is extremely deep and loud. I did some testing and with the sensitivity on the built in amp at 50% and Iphone volume at 50-75% it is at the point where it needs to be turned down. I noticed that with the floor panel on, and the doors and windows closed the bass performance is much better than when the hatch is up. I've heard this is because of the sealed vs. ported box when I was doing research on deciding what sub and box to use.It is great you found a pre-packaged sub solution that fits the restricted dimensions and has signal-based switching. In reviewing the specs, once the floor is laid down, the woofer's grill appears to be right up against it. This will have an effect of severely slot-loading the woofer as well as constricting its output. Have you tried it with the floor in place yet? Would be interested in what you find when you do. Running a dedicated power cable (8ga?) back to the battery is wise given the high current amp. You might also mention where you affixed the power ground for others who may attempt to use this woofer. Keep us updated.
The box is a sealed box. I debated on the 8" ported vs. 10" sealed, and decided on the 10" sub. JL Audio calls this their Powerwedge+ line, and they are using the TW1 series sub which is a much lower profile design that their previous thin W3 line.tunedxc60, do you have any more pics of the trimmed hatch floor strut? i'm curious to know how much was needed on your setup. thanks for sharing!
BTW is that a ported or sealed sub? JL's website says slot ported, but i don't see the port in the pictures.
Very nice, it sounds like your sub is pushing more air at the floor or being ported makes a difference as my floor does not rattle. the only thing i keep on top is the oem mat. EIther way i think the dynamat will help, maybe dynamat the whole floor?Update:
The 10" JL sub and box are installed, powered up, and tuned. Let me just say that the 400 watt built in amp is more than enough. At half gain to 3/4 gain it will rattle everything and force you to turn it down. The system is blended in perfectly and really lets the stock premium speakers show of their mid to highs. All in all it's a much better system now.
With the Harmon Kardon premium system I set it similar to Mark but decreased the 60hz completely on the EQ. No need to boost the low frequencies only to pass them onto the sub's amp.
60 hz , full negative
200 hz, 5 clicks up
1 khz, 3khz, 12khz flat
Bass and treble set to flat
DPL II surround: ON
Gain : - 2 clicks
Center speaker: + 3 clicks
Specific to my 10" JL Audio sub and and sealed box with 400 integrated amp, I have the high pass filter set around 75hz, and the gain at 50%.
The system is balanced perfect. Only issue for those considering a 10" sealed box is that the parcel floor will rattle unless you figure out how to keep weight on it or put rubber dampers on the edges. As Mark pointed out there's a lot of air moving under there and it actually caused the floor to rise up. The sound and tone is good - similar to when the floor is removed. If I had a ported box I'm not sure if it would be better since some of he air would be going out of the port but I'm sure this problem can be fixed. I'm considering lining the edge of the parcel floor with Dyanamat, or finding some type of rubber strip to dampen it.
Forgot to add..
For those ordering the SOT 045 or CT10VL05 wiring harness to tap the front speakers at the amp the price I paid in the US was $30 on Ebaywith free shipping from a U.K. Seller. The delivery took 3 weeks. Keep that delivery time in mind.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PIN 6, mine is vacant just like yours as shown. How did you come to the conclusion that it provides switched 12v? Is this switched 12v as an output from the amp, or from an alternate version of this connector harness with the 12v switched being fed from the other end?
Yeah, I got the same one off Ebay. I've been using it for a month or so, with no issues, but now I got a new amp that requires switched 12v. When I originally hooked up the harness I didn't connect this wire, and just left it short and taped it. I anticipated this problem sometime down the road if I got a new amp that didn't use speaker audio sensing as a remote turn on, so I pre-ran a wire from the cargo area to the factory amp under the passenger seat. In a perfect world I would be able to find a switched 12v off the amp, and just splice it together. This would avoid having to use a line output converter just to get the 12v remote turn on, and then having to find constant power in the cargo area for it to switch. I noticed in bhom920's post that he labeled pin 6 as +12v switched, but based on my testing I'm not getting any voltage out of the factory amp on that pin, and then factory harness that plugs into it had that pin removed, and there was no wire on it. In all of the manuals I read I didn't see any mention of pin 6, so I can't tell if it's supposed to be an output or input from the harness or the amp itself.
I must have labeled this as a mistake. I think i got this from the parrot harness. I did not use it or test it after finding out the auto turn on worked perfectly.PIN 6, mine is vacant just like yours as shown. How did you come to the conclusion that it provides switched 12v? Is this switched 12v as an output from the amp, or from an alternate version of this connector harness with the 12v switched being fed from the other end?
Thanks. I'm planning on just purchasing a cheap Scosche line output converter today and taking the output from the factory amp and splicing the left channel audio to the input of the converter in parallel with the cable that goes to my subwoofer amp left channel input. I've already got a wire from the passenger seat to the rear, so I'll plan on placing the line output converter under the seat and spicing the output from the line output converter to the subwoofer amp remote turn on wire. Just need to find constant low current 12v somewhere in the passenger seat area. I suppose I could always use a scotch lock on the 12v lighter plug in the center console. I was entirely trying to avoid splicing into factory wiring, but it seems to be the option at the moment.I must have labeled this as a mistake. I think i got this from the parrot harness. I did not use it or test it after finding out the auto turn on worked perfectly.