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Yes I have a alpine KTP-445U amplifier for the front and rear speakers installed to power the new JBL speakers
No, sorry, little language problems..
I telling about installing normal amplifier + (maybe DSP), with uninstalling stock.

As I understand you know electronics, diodes, transistors etc. :)
Did you see stock amp inside? Incredible, but "scarry"... :(
Have interest in photos?
 

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This is High perfomance


Only one TAS5414A for all four channels! (quality? Maybe... At no more 14-15W/ch with a reasonable level of distortion)

2x AKM4388VT...


But anyway - i think you now have better than stock, congrat!


Sent from Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 · (Edited)
No, sorry, little language problems..
I telling about installing normal amplifier + (maybe DSP), with uninstalling stock.

As I understand you know electronics, diodes, transistors etc. :)
Did you see stock amp inside? Incredible, but "scarry"... :(
Have interest in photos?
Oh I see, nope, I think there are a few people that tried to crack the MOST network, but I don't understand enough to make an attempt. Thank you for that picture. I was expecting to see more inside that casing. :eek:


more info on that chip, correct me if i'm wrong but based on this datasheet it's showing the chip is capable of 38w x4 RMS @ 2ohm?
http://www.ti.com/product/tas5414a
38 W into 2 Ω at 1% THD+N
45 W/Ch Into 2 Ω at 14.4 Vdc at 10% THD+N
 

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Oh I see, nope, I think there are a few people that tried to crack the MOST network, but I don't understand enough to make an attempt. Thank you for that picture. I was expecting to see more inside that casing. :eek:
What you mean with "crack MOST"?
I know minimum 2 products: Audison bit DMI and moBridge DA1 or DA2... Not cheap, i know :D
Two(or three) weeks ago i see this thread, and not sleep 2 nights. Read,read,read... Not all things i can buy here (especially Sub). But found small firm here who sell adapters own production.

Great! I bought this adapter for myself! Cheap! :) This was beginning!

Now i think about Sub. In the future it will be necessary to make the body for wofer :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
What you mean with "crack MOST"?
I know minimum 2 products: Audison bit DMI and moBridge DA1 or DA2... Not cheap, i know :D
Two(or three) weeks ago i see this thread, and not sleep 2 nights. Read,read,read... Not all things i can buy here (especially Sub). But found small firm here who sell adapters own production.

Great! I bought this adapter for myself! Cheap! :) This was beginning!

Now i think about Sub. In the future it will be necessary to make the body for wofer :(
MOST is the fiberoptic network volvo uses to link all the systems together. It's not a standard optical network.
 

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MOST is the fiberoptic network volvo uses to link all the systems together. It's not a standard optical network.
Yes, i know. On new platform (SMA, new XC/S90) new bus - MOST150 (this is problem for now), on P4 platform (our XC60) - MOST25...

Audison was first who made the adapters MOST-TosLink
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
update 8/16/16. Still enjoying the system. no issues. I did hack up the trunk tray to fit the subwoofer and amp which i forgot to post up. It could have been a bit better in the fitting department, but the 45 degree edges and the contours of the tray made it a more difficult.

 

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Exceptional write-up. I plan on following your build for our new-to-us '14 XC60 RD.
 

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update 8/16/16. Still enjoying the system. no issues. I did hack up the trunk tray to fit the subwoofer and amp which i forgot to post up. It could have been a bit better in the fitting department, but the 45 degree edges and the contours of the tray made it a more difficult.

If you had to do it all over again would you do anything differently? Does the single 8" alpine hit hard enough for you? I like how you originally had everything hidden under the floor, but I was curious what could be done differently to get the floor to sit flush. Do you have any issues with thee floor causing any annoying rattles or shakes because the woofer is aimed directly at it?

Thanks.
 

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For me I choose different way :)



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Yes!! Finally found someone who decided to install the subs in the sides of the rear. How did it go? Any pics or details? I assume you made the boxes yourself custom.

Thanks.
 

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Let me start off this post with WOW!. Alpine did a really hit it out of the park with the SBR-S8-4. I am having a tough time realizing it only has a 8inch driver and it's not even broken in yet!

Now for the fun stuff. The enclosure is tall. I knew before buying this that the enclosure itself would hit the strut, but i took some incorrect measurements and the subwoofer ended up being in the way. Not a big deal, but it went against my plans of not modifying the car. I ended up cutting a portion of the fiberglass strut as shown in the pictures below and now the driver clears without issue. The rest of the strut does rest on the enclosure causing the floor to "float" ever so slightly. I am still debating on how i want to handle this. I may just leave it as the floor flex's enough to not cause issue.

As of right now I am thrilled with this sub. It's put my past two 8inch subwoofer options to shame. The bass hits very low. It's rated for down to 30hz and I believe it. I still have some final mounting to do as the enclosure is not bolted down nor is the amp. It shouldn't really move anywhere with the weight of the floor sitting on the enclosure, but i'll figure out something.

Now onto the pics:

unboxing



size comparison with the pioneer


the strut issue


my strut clearance fix for the driver, i used the trim ring as a cutting guide



trim ring around the speaker grill had to be removed, it may fit, but i left it off for added clearance


"floating" floor. You can see at the very edge how its not sitting flush. You can put just a little weight on it and it will sit flush.
How does the single Alpine 8" compare to the single Pioneer 8"? The box on the Alpine is huge in comparison. If you had to do it all over again would you go with the single Alpine 8" with the sealed box like you did, or go with 2 pioneer units?

Thanks for pictures. This thread is priceless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 · (Edited)
If you had to do it all over again would you do anything differently? Does the single 8" alpine hit hard enough for you? I like how you originally had everything hidden under the floor, but I was curious what could be done differently to get the floor to sit flush. Do you have any issues with thee floor causing any annoying rattles or shakes because the woofer is aimed directly at it?

Thanks.
I am very happy with the outcome. Just to clarify, for the most part the floor sits flush. It's a very tight fit, but can be fixed if you choose to cut the fiberglass hump on the bottom of the false floor completely off. I chose to leave it and have not had a single problem with it. No vibrations or any odd noises with the subwoofer facing the floor. Keep in mind it is a ported box with the port being on the side of the box. If i had to do it all over again, i wouldn't have wasted my time with the pioneer subwoofer. I do recommend the alpine amplifiers as their auto turn on seems to play nice with the factory amp (which is made by alpine).

How does the single Alpine 8" compare to the single Pioneer 8"? The box on the Alpine is huge in comparison. If you had to do it all over again would you go with the single Alpine 8" with the sealed box like you did, or go with 2 pioneer units?

Thanks for pictures. This thread is priceless.
It's a huge difference!, imo i would not waste your time on the pioneer 8". The frequency response that i was getting out of it was similar to that of what i could get out of the JBL door speakers so sometimes you'd forget the subwoofer was even there, but with the Alpine you know it's there (i recommend a remote bass knob). It's capable of much lower frequencies that will shake your mirror. Another subwoofer which was on my list, but ultimately did not go with was this powered JL Audio ACP108LG-W3v3 http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693330/JL-Audio-ACP108LG-W3v3.html?tp=114 .
 

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[SUB][/SUB]

I found a few other subs that might work. Looks like Rockford Fosgate makes a line of 8, 10, and 12 inch enclosures that might fit:

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3s-1x12


I wonder if the sealed box would have enough air volume available.

With the experience between the Pioneer and Alpine do you think the biggest reason for the improvement was the ported box, or the sub itself?

I'll some measurements again this morning but it would be awesome to fit two 10's or 12's in that space, but even though it may fit it might sound due to lack of air volume.
 

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I've been doing some research on subs that fit and have taken some measurements of the XC60 wheel well area that seems ideal for subwoofer placement.

For those trying to figure out "what will fit" for a subwoofer box on an XC60 hope this helps:

Max width: 11.75" boundaries are the seat brackets and the spare wheel
Max length: 19.5" boundaries are the two screw studs for the factory subwoofer (not US spec). OR
23.5" boundaries are the cables on left and right side of vehicle, Note this requires the threaded studs to be cut/dremel'd off. OR
27.0" boundaries is the spare wheel well insulation on left and right side, Note this requires cutting the threads like above AND relocating some of the factory cable more to the sides
Max height: Variable. Appears that 5" is optimal, but 7.5" would be max. Anything over 5" appears that the factory tray would have to be cutout to the dimensions of the box, and that the trunk liner lid strut would have to be ground down.


Based on that I looked at the more premium solutions, and building on lessons learned from others on the forum.

Top Lessons Learned:
Lesson #1:
The premade bass units (lots of them out there - Kicker, Fosgate, MTX, etc, etc) no one has any success with, Amazon, Crutchfield reviews are horrible.
Lesson #2:
The down firing Pioneer boxes seem like a great fit because the box dimensions fit, but the reality is that the boxes are too small, and without significant power aren't great quality, and don't provide enough volume.
Lesson #3:
Just because a subwoofer is bigger doesn't mean its better - having an adequate size box is just as important. The box (and amplifier) need to be matched to the speaker volume requirements and amp needs to be matched to the RMS value of the woofer.
Lesson #4:
Take your time and measure, measure, measure before cutting up the trunk liner insert so it looks nice and professional when the install is done.


Based on lessons learned, and the fact that I'm not a professional speaker box builder, I looked for premade box and sub combos from all reputable speaker vendors. I've come down to a few options that would fit and provide significant quality and volume:

1. JL Audio - Two 10" TW1 speakers in a premade sealed box - CS210LG-TW1 - $419.99/Ebay is best price Rated for 600 Watts RMS
Dimensions 22"W x 11-3/4"H x 7-5/16"D
2. JL Audio - 1 10" TW1 speaker in a premade sealed box with built in AMP - ACS110LG-TW1 - $449/online. Rated for 400 Watts RMS
15"W x 11-3/4"H x 5-9/16"D
Version also available with non integrated AMP for cheaper $$ - JL Audio CS110LG-TW1-2 - $279.99 300 Watts RMS
3. JL Audio - 1 8" W3V3 speaker in a premade PORTED box with built in AMP - ACP108LG-W3v3 - $429/online 300 Watts RMS
Dimensions 18-5/8"W x 11-3/16"H x 6-5/8"D
Also available a version with non integrated AMP for cheaper $$ - CP108LG-W3v3 - $259.99/online - rated for 250 Watts WMS
4. Alpine Type R speaker - 8" in a PORTED box - SBR-S8-4 - $249.99/online - Rated for 350 Watts RMS
Dimensions 19-1/4"W x 11-3/8"H x 6-5/8""D
 

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Lesson #3:
Just because a subwoofer is bigger doesn't mean its better - having an adequate size box is just as important. The box (and amplifier) need to be matched to the speaker volume requirements and amp needs to be matched to the RMS value of the woofer.
I would just like to clarify and correct this lesson a bit. Your understanding is correct that bigger is simply not better and that the box/enclosure must be taken into account. I would not use the term "adequate size" here. The size is dictated by the driver's electrical and mechanical properties as well as the type of loading and the desired output and frequency response. This is a multi-dimensial design problem not easily tackled without trial and error, test equipment or engineering expertise. Size can also be reduced quite a bit running the driver below its system resonance and EQing it up at 6db per octave. Takes a lot of power though.

The other statement regarding matching the RMS of the woofer to the amp, is a common misunderstanding. The RMS of a driver is simply how much it can handle thermally. This says nothing about the efficiency or output of the driver much less when it is in an enclosure. RMS values are also a function of the impedance that they are measured at as well as whether this is a peak or period of time (continuous) test. On the other hand, an amp's RMS reflects its rated output a a certain distortion and frequency response and is measured into a fixed resistance and not a driver. Therefore, amp RMS and driver RMS are measured differently and are not comparable in this manner. Unfortunately, this is used as a common upsell strategy.

The bottom line is, I can run a 100W RMS amp into a 500W RMS woofer just fine as long as the output is in my desired range without clipping the amp, and I can run a 500W amp into a 100W driver as long as the output is fine without overheating its voice coil. Matching will not guarantee either.
 
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