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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! I've found my awful squeaking noise coming from the driver side rear. I sprayed WD-40 from the bottom of the car and pushed slightly up and down while my floor jack was lifting from the bottom of the strut mount(car was on jack stands). Now with a load on the strut mount, spring seat, and strut I could pin point the noise and where it had disappeared at when sprayed down. The strut mount in my opinion is bad, but I want to replace the spring seat while I'm there, Ipd only offers front spring seats and fcp euro does not list if its for front or rear https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vo...ount-spring-seat-850-c70-s70-v70-s60-s80-xc70. Thanks!
 

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Hello! I've found my awful squeaking noise coming from the driver side rear. I sprayed WD-40 from the bottom of the car and pushed slightly up and down while my floor jack was lifting from the bottom of the strut mount(car was on jack stands). Now with a load on the strut mount, spring seat, and strut I could pin point the noise and where it had disappeared at when sprayed down. The strut mount in my opinion is bad, but I want to replace the spring seat while I'm there, Ipd only offers front spring seats and fcp euro does not list if its for front or rear https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vo...ount-spring-seat-850-c70-s70-v70-s60-s80-xc70. Thanks!
CMON MAN USE A PART DIAGRAM!

Just kidding haha, but seriously VIDA or volvopartswebstore has part diagrams that can tell you this info. I've seen some FCPeuro part numbers be incorrect before, IPD is usually spot on.

To answer your question no they're no the same.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hahahaha will do thank you for actually responding to my questions seems like my s60R noob ness repeals helpful information lmao. In your opinion would the strut mount squeak or the spring seat? I replaced all 4c struts with a front rebuild kit and new ipd lowering springs and front and rear end links. Hard job for a mechanically inclined Volvo noob lol.
 

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How long ago did you do all that? Do you have aftermarket sway bars with polyeurethane bushings or oem with rubber?

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
About a month ago I replaced the front and rear struts and springs, by rebuild I'm talking about the front strut assembly and mounts. I haven't touched any sway bars yet.
 

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Only reason I ask is cuz the poly sway bar bushings will squeak if not lubed and also I know the rear spring seats can take a little bit to settle.
I don't really think replacing the spring seat will do anything unless yours are shredded. Did you properly tighten the strut top to the upper strut mount? Can be a bit tricky cuz the nut is recessed. If that was a little loose that could probably rattle/squeak.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah I do know I didn't have the squeaking problem before I changed the rear struts and springs only the left side squeaks do you think its not seated fully or the strut mount went bad during removal and install? I have about 4-5 threads showing on top of the nut, and its a pain to get that much, and it didn't make a difference to the squeaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't want to buy the mount if its not broken but I don't think the spring seat was bad, I can't say the condition of the strut mount I didn't inspect it when taking the struts apart like I should've. Its a 200$ part from Ipd and I don't want to get it If its not broken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also I noticed this is now happening, what is causing the bolt to shift over and dig into the rubber strut mount?



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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I talked to my automotive instructor and he says that’s not good, he said since the spring is shorter I may need to get a spacer since more threads are able to show, sorry for a lot of reply’s but I just want to present all information thanks.


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I have some rear mounts in good shape if you want them. Probably 90k miles I think.
Yeah that's not good. Shouldn't need a spacer, that doesn't make sense.

How the F is the shaft of the shock so far to the side? Should only be able to be centered. You've got something put together wrong man
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Also it's not a 200 dollar part. This is the only piece you would need to replace.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-support-plate-8646101

The top of the shock shaft just goes through that hole in the bushing and then you tighten it down. Your shaft is offset to the left like the hole is destroyed I can't tell from the pic, not really sure how that's even possible. You need to take out that corner and reinstall the shock to the upper mount. Use a spring compressor on the spring while you're doing it.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I removed the strut mount with the struts when I did this I removed the top bolts and slide it down the bottom, verses going from the bottom. I did use spring compressors when I did this, would this current situation damage the strut? And thank you for the part I called ipd and cancelled the strut mount order before it shipped.


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Also is it safe to drive on as long as I’m not speeding around? It’s my only car right now.


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So I removed the strut mount with the struts when I did this I removed the top bolts and slide it down the bottom, verses going from the bottom.
Sorry I can't really tell what you're talking about lol, can you be more specific?
I mean I wouldn't want to drive around on it, as long as you have that top nut tightened onto the top of the strut, securing the strut to the upper strut mount it should be okay for light driving just not ideal. If the strut is not secured to the upper strut mount then no do not drive it. It's hard to say without looking at it. I still don't understand how the struts not centered in the mount I can't tell from the pic. Also did you bend the metal on the frame up or did the strut contacting it do that?

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Also I noticed this is now happening, what is causing the bolt to shift over and dig into the rubber strut mount?



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I definitely wouldn't drive it if it was me. Looks like the shock was not correctly assembled. Either the top strut nut was not tightened all the way or the spring was not seated in the mount correctly would be my guesses. But either way that needs to come back out. Fingers crossed the threads on the shock arent too damaged to get the nut off/on.

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This is the way it should look....
Wheel Auto part Automotive wheel system Tire Automotive tire

The shoulder on the shaft should sit on the bottom of the mount with the top nut holding them tight together. So regardless of the spring height, the shock/strut is firmly attached to the mount. The angle of the shaft may vary with the height of the new springs, but unless you dropped it 6 inches, I would not expect the angle change to be dramatic. I have TMEs on mine with none of these issues.

Auto part Cylinder Fuel pump Tool

Edited so pics would show
 
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