SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New balljoints should arrive today - wondering how much of a pain in the a$$ it'll be to get all the parts swapped this afternoon (control, balljoint, sway bar endlink). I see that the balljoint has a bracket around it with two bolts holding it into the spindle - will it more-or-less come out with those bolts removed?

If not, anyone ever try using a slide hammer on the old one to pull it out? Any other tips?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,228 Posts
they could be pressed in the factory but they came out just by prying them out , just do it evenly back and forth side to side slowly prying them out ...always worked for me .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,033 Posts
OR you can loan the ball joint kit form your local auto parts store...

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
876 Posts
OR you can loan the ball joint kit form your local auto parts store...
Please correct me if I and wrong, but I do not see how this kit will work on S60R.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I actually work part-time for said local parts store. Based on what I've seen with the parts themselves, and the quick-peek I took under the front bumper, this tool would not work for pressing in the ball joint, nor is it probably necessary. Plus, my question was how to REMOVE the balljoint, for which the tool pictured above does not perform. You usually use a ball-joint fork (preferably with an air-gun) to remove ball joints, but even that I see being difficult to use with this particular car. However, according to dougy above, this isn't necessary.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,708 Posts
However, according to dougy above, this isn't necessary.
Not necessary, I got it out by doug's method as well. Just keep prying them from the sides, and eventually they will budge out. That ball joint tool kit will not work with our ball joints whether installing or removing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
861 Posts
I was only able to get the ball joint tool loaner to work by using the cup to fit over the ball joint, and a big ass hammer to get the joints to go back in and seat. For removing them, I used the method that VIDA suggests, by using a ratchet strap under the car between both LCA's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
Don't forget to unbolt the axle shaft from the hub, otherwise you will pull the CV-joint apart as you are trying to remove the ball joint.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Don't forget to unbolt the axle shaft from the hub, otherwise you will pull the CV-joint apart as you are trying to remove the ball joint.

Can someone clarify this a bit? I'm trying to picture how this would happen - the ball joint is pressed into the bottom of the knuckle assembly. If I first remove (and I mean fully remove) the control arm, I should be able to pry out the balljoint without really affecting the knuckle assembly. The axle isn't connected to the control arm or the balljoint, so I don't know how I'd affect the axle by removing these.

Now, I could see using the control arm to pull out the balljoint causing some stress on the knuckle and possibly affecting the axle, but I don't intend on using that method (for one thing I really can't in my own garage.)

It is possible however that this car is setup differently from what I'm used to, so please correct me if I misunderstand something. I can remove the axle nut if I really need to...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,228 Posts
Can someone clarify this a bit? I'm trying to picture how this would happen - the ball joint is pressed into the bottom of the knuckle assembly. If I first remove (and I mean fully remove) the control arm, I should be able to pry out the balljoint without really affecting the knuckle assembly. The axle isn't connected to the control arm or the balljoint, so I don't know how I'd affect the axle by removing these.

Now, I could see using the control arm to pull out the balljoint causing some stress on the knuckle and possibly affecting the axle, but I don't intend on using that method (for one thing I really can't in my own garage.)

It is possible however that this car is setup differently from what I'm used to, so please correct me if I misunderstand something. I can remove the axle nut if I really need to...
you remove the axle bolt to prevent the axle joint from popping out, it'll help you with the arms as well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,708 Posts
the ball joint is pressed into the bottom of the knuckle assembly. If I first remove (and I mean fully remove) the control arm, I should be able to pry out the balljoint without really affecting the knuckle assembly. The axle isn't connected to the control arm or the balljoint, so I don't know how I'd affect the axle by removing these.
The ball joint is connected to the control arm and the bottom of the knuckle/spindle assembly. The Axle with the axle bolt is holding together through the knuckle assembly/hub. If you try to remove the balljoint without releasing the axle bolt/axle, by pulling on the knuckle to get leverage, there's a high risk of pulling the axle itself.

If by chance too much pressure is applied to the axle, the CV joint on the axle can separate. It will be a PITA to reconnect the joint.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
170 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
HOLY CRAP WHAT A GIANT PITA THAT WAS!!!!

Lift car and remove wheel - easy. Remove steering stop - easy. Remove front two bolts holding in control arm - frustration begins thanks to TERRIBLY placed cooling lines... Removing rear bolt to control arm - easy once I realized I had to do it from the top. Removing balljoint nut - easy once I realized that the hex inside the balljoint was smaller than the new Meyle one. Removing balljoint... Wow... Quick pause to remove caliper, rotor, and dust shield... Pound living crap out of old balljoint with a wedge... Balljoint finally out. New ball joint in... Sorta - started going in crooked, had to almost remove to get it straight again, then wail on it with a hammer and old impact socket. FINALLY got it flush... Install new control arm... OHMYGODAREYOUKIDDINGME.... Couldn't get rear bushing to line up, then couldn't get front bolt holes to line up with frame... Finally lined up balljoint into control arm and tightened up, then used jack on control arm to get front bolts close... Had to use a wrench to twist the front bushing until a bolt would go in... Then fought with cooling lines all over again...

End link was a total breeze though, even though I needed two different sizes of star bits AND wrenches to remove it. :)

Getting a little grinding noise from it now - I think the dust shield might have gotten bent up a little and is probably brushing the rotor. Should be a quick fix. Car rides well though.

Thanks for the tips & guidance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,936 Posts
HOLY CRAP WHAT A GIANT PITA THAT WAS!!!!

Lift car and remove wheel - easy. Remove steering stop - easy. Remove front two bolts holding in control arm - frustration begins thanks to TERRIBLY placed cooling lines... Removing rear bolt to control arm - easy once I realized I had to do it from the top. Removing balljoint nut - easy once I realized that the hex inside the balljoint was smaller than the new Meyle one. Removing balljoint... Wow... Quick pause to remove caliper, rotor, and dust shield... Pound living crap out of old balljoint with a wedge... Balljoint finally out. New ball joint in... Sorta - started going in crooked, had to almost remove to get it straight again, then wail on it with a hammer and old impact socket. FINALLY got it flush... Install new control arm... OHMYGODAREYOUKIDDINGME.... Couldn't get rear bushing to line up, then couldn't get front bolt holes to line up with frame... Finally lined up balljoint into control arm and tightened up, then used jack on control arm to get front bolts close... Had to use a wrench to twist the front bushing until a bolt would go in... Then fought with cooling lines all over again...

End link was a total breeze though, even though I needed two different sizes of star bits AND wrenches to remove it. :)

Getting a little grinding noise from it now - I think the dust shield might have gotten bent up a little and is probably brushing the rotor. Should be a quick fix. Car rides well though.

Thanks for the tips & guidance.
Just throw away your front brake dust shields, you'll get better brake cooling without them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,141 Posts
OR you can loan the ball joint kit form your local auto parts store...

Yes, they are pressed in and no that doesn't work. I used a chisel tip to get it out and a big metal cup from the above set to tap the new one in.

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,560 Posts
I ran into similar issues with the wrong year BJ's (the splines to insert them are different), as well as one of the new control arms that I used. I not have an odd caster issues on my front suspension, and I am wondering if it's because of how the control arms lined up. I'd be interested to see what your front alignment numbers look like.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top