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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys wanted to let you guys know about the pulley that ARD is selling. As far as build this thing is beautiful. I replaced my stock pulley because the rubber was de-laminating between the center hub and the pulley causing it to have a wobble when it was running. That did not seem safe to me at all and was afraid it would one day break loose.

Install was a breeze since i was replacing the control arm, strut, ball joint, spring mount, and bearing on the suspension.

Sprayed the center section of the pulley with PB blaster

Just removed the 30mm center bolt and the (4) 10mm bolts that hold the pulley on.

Loosened the belt with the torx t55 on the tensioner arm.

Put a flat head behind the pulley and wiggled it off.


Now something that i did have to talk to ARD about was that there is a dowel pin on the stock crack that would not allow my new pulley to line up right. Attached is a picture. You have to remove the dowel pin to make the pulley bolt holes line up correctly. Richard at ARD was telling me that not a lot of the R's are set up with this off center dowel pin and that most will directly fit in.

Here you can see the dowel pin that was keeping my new pulley from putting the 10-mm bolts back in. On my car the dowel pin was farther to the left closer to the 10 mm bolt.


I didn't replace my pulley for power but merely for the fact that my stock pulley was self destructing. For $114 shipped I think that this was a good deal. Plus i don't have to worry about this one self destructing. I do fell like the motor is a little more responsive than with the stock pulley so that is a plus. Its nothing crazy noticeable but is some what noticeable.

I definitely give this product the thumbs up and ARD the thumbs up for great customer service, fast shipping and a great product!
 

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nice little write up. Any additional vibration or engine "harshness" now that the dampening from the OEM pulley is gone?
 

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How tough was that 30mm nut to take off? I have seen some crazy videos on youtube with people fighting with these nuts. I an waiting on a lug key (I hate locking lug nuts) so I can remove the wheel to gain access to do the job.

 

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Is the pulley smaller? If not, it shouldn't change anything other than negligibly. If so, then you're going to lose A/C output and worse on our caRs, alternator output. We use a ton of power, so if you went with a smaller pulley, I think you're going to have battery charging issues if not power issues while the car is in operation.
 

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Pulley should be the same size. It isn't an under drive pulley, just no balance material so it is lighter.

I'm willing to bet I won't notice any added vibration considering my lightweight flywheel is probably making 10x as much vibration as that little thing could possibly cause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah I would check ur guys pulleys mine only had 76k miles and was wobbling pretty bad.

No additional harness experienced.

I used the starter bump method to break loose the 30 mm. Loosened right up.
 

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Yeah I would check ur guys pulleys mine only had 76k miles and was wobbling pretty bad.

No additional harness experienced.

I used the starter bump method to break loose the 30 mm. Loosened right up.
Same reason why I originally changed mine... stock pulley was going bad, causing my tensioner to go soft and the timing belt was wacking on my timing shroud...

I have the UR and loved it, took it off a while ago for comparison and put it back on recently (when timing was changed last month).

Nice to see ARD's version.
 

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I had to remove the dowel as well when I installed mine a few weeks ago. It's more of a "locator" for the crank pulley to line up.

As others have stated, the pulley OD is exactly the same as stock, however the pulley is significantly lighter (between 50-70% based on my guess) therefore resulting in much less rotational mass for the motor to get going, hence the increased throttle response and quicker revs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's what Richard said about the pin that It was on there for motor assembly
 

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How tough was that 30mm nut to take off? I have seen some crazy videos on youtube with people fighting with these nuts. I an waiting on a lug key (I hate locking lug nuts) so I can remove the wheel to gain access to do the job.

HF or air cat 3/4 inch impact makes crank sprockets bolts tremble in fear. Absolutely must use the larger lines and coupler.

I've taken off bolts with these that my 250 lb ass on a six ft long breaker bar wouldn't loosen.
 

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Yeah I would check ur guys pulleys mine only had 76k miles and was wobbling pretty bad.

No additional harness experienced.

I used the starter bump method to break loose the 30 mm. Loosened right up.
I think I need to check mine in the morning, I have 150,000 on mine
 

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I didn't replace my pulley for power but merely for the fact that my stock pulley was self destructing. For $114 shipped I think that this was a good deal. Plus i don't have to worry about this one self destructing. I do fell like the motor is a little more responsive than with the stock pulley so that is a plus. Its nothing crazy noticeable but is some what noticeable.
Was the bad pulley turning into a whirring noise. It just dawned upon me that this could possibly be the mysterious noise that I have had for some time now. I feel like an idiot, there's only so much that's rpm sensitive and this is probably one of the biggest things lol.

PLEASE REFERENCE:
http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...to-be-had.-Yet-another-spin-spin-spinny-noise.

I have since had a Full Timing/Serp Service.

ALSO: I apologize for the threadjack however if this proves to be the problem I will 100% Buy the ARD Pulley.
 

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My concern is that it's not balanced with rubber like the OE unit. I'm wondering if the crank will start walking sideways after a while. Thoughts?

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 

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And wasn't there someone who had serious engine issues related to vibrations who had the UR pulley? I'd be worried about the lack of dampening.
 

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And wasn't there someone who had serious engine issues related to vibrations who had the UR pulley? I'd be worried about the lack of dampening.
I believe you're referring to this feedback from GMV: LINK

I think I figured it out. It seems like the centre hole in the ARD pulley is slightly larger than stock pulley. The pulley is off centre and causes the aux belt vibrating like hell even on idle and on high rpms the vibration is passing through the crank and causing the clutch issue. I will swap for the stock pulley tomorrow and reply.
To be honest, between the above pulley issue, the knock-off/modified Bosch ignition coils that they're selling as genuine Bosch motorsport coils (LINK), the knock-off Forge CBVs that they were selling (LINK), and all of the uncertainty surrounding their tunes (LINK 1, LINK 2), I will be staying away from ARD products until they take some steps that convince me they're putting out high quality, reputable and genuine products.

I have never purchased anything from ARD, and I'm sure that there are several people that have done so and are satisfied, but for me the above issues have prompted me to look to other vendors.
 

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I believe you're referring to this feedback from GMV: LINK



To be honest, between the above pulley issue, the knock-off/modified Bosch ignition coils that they're selling as genuine Bosch motorsport coils (LINK), the knock-off Forge CBVs that they were selling (LINK), and all of the uncertainty surrounding their tunes (LINK 1, LINK 2), I will be staying away from ARD products until they take some steps that convince me they're putting out high quality, reputable and genuine products.

I have never purchased anything from ARD, and I'm sure that there are several people that have done so and are satisfied, but for me the above issues have prompted me to look to other vendors.
I was referring to miamiquikkid's issue, which is referenced here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?131687-Timing-belt-broke
 

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I believe you're referring to this feedback from GMV: LINK



To be honest, between the above pulley issue, the knock-off/modified Bosch ignition coils that they're selling as genuine Bosch motorsport coils (LINK), the knock-off Forge CBVs that they were selling (LINK), and all of the uncertainty surrounding their tunes (LINK 1, LINK 2), I will be staying away from ARD products until they take some steps that convince me they're putting out high quality, reputable and genuine products.

I have never purchased anything from ARD, and I'm sure that there are several people that have done so and are satisfied, but for me the above issues have prompted me to look to other vendors.
Yes but your always the grumpy guy in the back :whistle:


I have to say I have a LOT of ARD parts and getting ready to buy a LOT more for a new project. Should you be skeptical , sure but there are people out there and getting good results( but not linked). Mind you it takes time to do better then the detuned factory mode. I can say with several race conditions over 150 mph and 15K miles I have had no problems with the pulley or any other ARD product I'm using. I'm not presenting this as ALL results but just wanted to be balanced
 
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