[EngTech]

An Extra Filter I didn't know about - Looking into Fliud Change

Volvo's AOC Clutch Unit S40's/V50's 2005-2010

Seems Our AOC Clutch's for the AWD - has a Filter in It . $18.00 - $22.00 bucks for 2005-2010

AOC CLUTCH 2005-2010 Volvo V50
APPLICATION PART # PRICE Click to enlarge!
V50 2005-2010 Companion Flange w/nut, 8689665 OES #1
V50 2005-2010 Oscillation Damper
V50 2005-2010 Oscillation Damper Vin 480724 Up, w/companion flange and oscillation damper, Req
V50 2005-2010 Oil Pump 8689664 OES 30783079 #3
V50 2005-2010 Grommet OES 30656280 $ 7.60 Buy Now #5
V50 2005-2010 Pressure Sensor 40 BAR OES 30651694 $ 111.32 Buy Now #6
V50 2005-2010 Clutch O-Ring OES 925263 $ 7.42 Buy Now #8
V50 2005-2010 Filter w/screws M5x18, cap, and o-ring 34.2x3mm OES 30787687 $ 17.49 #10
V50 2005-2010 Sealing Kit seal and nut OES 8675238 $ 20.53 #11

 

[EngTech]

Oh, and these Numbers are Volvo Part Numbers # 30787687

 

[EngTech]

Seems Our Car are = Prone to Vibrations from Axle Joints & Tires , brake rotors - I'm Hoping We don't have the same Issues the R has with it's AWD Unit .
I have Never Heard Any One Mention in any of the R Right Up's of Changing Fluid etc. - Working on Their AWD Unit or AOC - that one should be Changing the Filter .

Does anyone Know the Differences Between the Generation II & the Generation III - AWD systems ?

 

[-ForceFed-]

Hmmm, interesting. I didnt even know those had a filter system since Ive never had to replace one or do we ever do fluid changes. Not too many people ask to have them serviced and of course volvo doesnt seen to recommend fluid changes for them.

 

[EngTech]

Just seeing about Furture HP - Issues, as ( AWD R's ) start having Issues - High HP .

It is the Generation III system , We I think , as there is a Gen IV system coming out for the A3 & TT which use a similar system as Ours .
On the R Their Weak Link is the Right side and Sleeve Splines , something about a Collar .

Volvo Parts Guy: Verified Part Number - # 30787687 , as good for for V50 T5 AWD , BUTT then couldn't find anything on it for USA - Cars ( What Gives ) ?

Anyway any Info as to Grease for the AWD Sleeve , Design or Hardness Material Updates in that Area between R and Our System , would be really Cool - Thanks
Kyle !

 

[slrising]

I think before 2006 they were GEN II in 2006 went to GEN III and 2009 went to GEN IV.

Haldex info: http://www.haldex.com/Global/Traction/History and Partners/Gen I-III info.pdf

For GEN I and (I believe GEN II even for volvo) oil and filter changes were recommended by some manfs. Manual here: For a GEN I audi I believe http://www.billswebspace.com/HALDEX.pdfhttp://www.billswebspace.com/HALDEX.pdf

Everything I read for Volvo concerning Haldex AWD is that its the exact same system used across the model line up so no differences between the models just the gen changes and of course software for the controller tailored to the vehicle.

Mathew's volvo site has some how to's on changing the oil out, no mention of the filter though: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/2010/06/24/how-to-change-rear-bevel-fluid-on-awd-p2-volvos/

 

[-ForceFed-]

Just did a reseal on the rear diff of a V70XC 2002 and the fluid was pretty gross. Car had 60K. Might be a good idea for some to get that fluid changed.

 

[EngTech]

Change IT !

Does a Re-Seal Mean Big Leak / or Owner Just wanted to Clean Unit Out ?_?

Northside also Recommends Changing , If You Plan on Keeping or putting 150,000 on them .
I'd like to see what 200,000 miles Runs Like .

So, 60,000 to 80,000 or should that be Shorten Up some ?

Like what You seeing ( was that one Abused ) Like Stuck in a Ditch and doing the
Go Frd. / Go Backward - Banging on the Auto to Get Unstuck ?

 

[Jack Watts]

Thank you so much for this post. I'd been looking for the filter part # for over a year, from the dealer and the interwebs--no luck. Finally...

I have a Ford Freestyle with 90K miles (to make matters worse, I sold a V70R when I bought this...) It also uses the same bevel gear/Gen III Haldex system. Anyway, I changed the Haldex fluid and it was pretty gross, so I wanted to get the filter out of there. I ordered up the filter last week:

The end cap is a little different than OEM, but it's a direct fit and includes a new spring and o-rings. When I loosened the 2 4mm allen bolts, chunky stuff started oozing out immediately (keep in mind I had just done 1 fluid exchange already). Here's what it looked like:

Here's the media opened up:

There was actually a lot more of the chunky stuff which came out, this is just a small sample. You can reach your own conclusions as to whether or not this filter needs changed...

Thanks again for the linked diagram and part number. I feel much better knowing there's a new filter/fluid in there, particularly after seeing what came out.

 

[EngTech]

Your Welcome

The end cap is a little different than OEM, but it's a direct fit and includes a new spring and o-rings. When I loosened the 2 4mm allen bolts, chunky stuff started oozing out immediately (keep in mind I had just done 1 fluid exchange already). Here's what it looked like:

( Most Likely just a Product Update )
Here's the media opened up:
There was actually a lot more of the chunky stuff which came out, this is just a small sample. You can reach your own conclusions as to whether or not this filter needs changed...

Thanks again for the linked diagram and part number. I feel much better knowing there's a new filter/fluid in there, particularly after seeing what came out.[/QUOTE]

Would Really be Interested to take a Magnet , and Or Spread that Stuff Out on White Paper to
See what this - Gunk - was made of ?

 

[Jack Watts]

Would Really be Interested to take a Magnet , and Or Spread that Stuff Out on White Paper to
See what this - Gunk - was made of ?

Yeah, in retrospect I should have inspected that stuff a little more carefully. I think I was a little surprised (read: horrified) when I removed the filter cap.

I did rub some between my finger and I took a magnet to the filter and there doesn't appear to be much in the way of metal. The stuff that oozed out of the filter housing (some of which you can see in the first photo) was basically destroyed fluid which had turned to a gelatinous substance of some sort. It looked like baby poop for lack of a more scientific term...

My guess is that the oil pump would have failed before any real damage was done to the wet clutch. I don't think I've even heard of a single instance of the actual wet clutch portion of the Haldex unit failing, so it must be pretty robust. I'm guessing a lot/most of pump failures are due to fluid issues. What I do know is that I'm going to pull that filter again after about a month and take a look. I plain on doing a second fluid/filter change to clean things up (unless the filter looks really clean), then just putting this on the list of things to do every year/25K miles. That may seem a little excessive, but it's easy enough to change and about $50.00 in parts/fluid.

 

[EngTech]

Yeah, in retrospect I should have inspected that stuff a little more carefully. I think I was a little surprised (read: horrified) when I removed the filter cap.

I did rub some between my finger and I took a magnet to the filter and there doesn't appear to be much in the way of metal. The stuff that oozed out of the filter housing (some of which you can see in the first photo) was basically destroyed fluid which had turned to a gelatinous substance of some sort. It looked like baby poop for lack of a more scientific term...

My guess is that the oil pump would have failed before any real damage was done to the wet clutch. I don't think I've even heard of a single instance of the actual wet clutch portion of the Haldex unit failing, so it must be pretty robust. I'm guessing a lot/most of pump failures are due to fluid issues. What I do know is that I'm going to pull that filter again after about a month and take a look. I plain on doing a second fluid/filter change to clean things up (unless the filter looks really clean), then just putting this on the list of things to do every year/25K miles. That may seem a little excessive, but it's easy enough to change and about $50.00 in parts/fluid.

Some Might be Clutch Material , but I don't Know what the Wet Clutches are made of .
I have to wonder , about all the R's that running around with Clogged Filters , as No One has Ever
Mentioned Changing It . As soon as I saw the Over all parts Diagram , I was like WHaaaaT ?

Sure Enough I had to get the Info Up : Thanks for the Photo's as I'm going to be changing My Filter
in the Future for Sure .

 

[m4gician]

Just wanted to ask, is this a DIY, changing the fluid and changing the filter? I'd love to do this to clean out that dirty gunk and replace it with new stuff.

 

[EngTech]

Hope this Helps

Just wanted to ask, is this a DIY, changing the fluid and changing the filter? I'd love to do this to clean out that dirty gunk and replace it with new stuff.

I forgot How many miles on Your Volvo ? , You need to get the Fluid good and warm before a change , so any loose junks is moving around , so it can be sucked out .
I would think that a good Boat Pump , for changing Oil would do . ( $ 50.00 ) I use mine , also for doing Oil when the weather isn't the greatest . I just fitted it with a slight smaller Hose to fit - Dip Stick Tube . read it was also stiffer , and tightly fit inside the one that came with Unit , so that was Cake .

The Stiff plastic hose ( Clear ) doesn't collapse when Pulling Hot Oil out of motor under Vacuum .
The Larger Dia. hose worked great on VW - Loosening the Fill Spout - eased the Vacuum Loading
pulling Oil out .
There are a few Oil Places have the Special Equipment for doing the change out , but OEM
Fluid is Required . No one stocks the little filter , it looks to me that It could be cleaned or it's a 3 day wait min. on Ordering from Volvo .

 

[timmyd]

I had sometime this weekend to get some much needed maintenance finished on my T5 V50 AWD (96k km). I set out to do the Haldex fluid/filter, rear diff, oil change, and brake flush.

If you have not already done these, you need to do them now! The Haldex fluid was black and had a bits of clutch material in it. In comparision, I changed my VW R32 (64k km)fluid too, and it was just slightly dark with no sludgly bits.

interesting fact --> the haldex filter is the same in both R32 and V50 and the R32 cost $86 vs $22 for the volvo!! No more VW filters for me!! should have done the volvo first!

The rear diff oil was pretty dark too.

Changing these fluids is quite easy. The hardest part was getting the 13mm fill plugs open, I swear they took all my force to crack them open! and they are in a very tight spot. The fill plugs are located side by side on the driver's side above the rear subframe. The rear plug is the diff the front plug is the haldex fluid.

Once open, I used a large syringe + small hose to suck out the fluid. I used the same system to fill the diff and haldex unit. No need for a miti vac or expensive pump. The syringe worked great can be bought for about 2 bucks! it takes about 5 mins longer, but you have a lot of control when filling.

The filter is located on the passenger side and is held on my 2 allen head bolts. The o ring side of the filter goes into the haldex unit and the spring side goes toward the cover which you just removed.

Easy to do, a bit dirty, but the piece of mind knowing there is fresh fluid and filter in your AOC is great.

 

[m4gician]

Do you have any pictures?

 

[MM]

I'm going to be doing this when I pull my car out of the garage in the spring. I've already printed all the documentation, part numbers, diagrams, etc. I remember shortly after getting my car, I asked the dealer about it and they said that there is no need to change these fluids. I think I'll do it anyway.

 

[zubilius]

Yea and nowhere in the manual does it say to ever do this but I think its definately a good idea.

 

[EngTech]

timmy D - was Your Fliuds Hot or Cold doing this : ?

Just wondering If hitting the Fill Port with Ice If all else was Hot would have eased plug out some ?
Maybe that had locktite on it .

How large was the Orifice on the Suction device , I mean was it being plunged up by the Crap as it came out ?

 

[timmyd]

The car was in my garage which is I would guess around 15 C and the fluids that I put in the car where at about 20c (from inside my house). The area of the fill plug is so tight, good luck with getting ice or heat up there, I could barely fit my hand!

I used a large syringe the orifice size of about 3 mm was not being plugged. The crap wasn't that "big" but you could feel it between your fingers.

The fill plugs did not have locktite, the fill plugs have a bit of a collar on the below the 13mm hex which is slightly counter sunk into the Haldex/diff housing. I think that combo plus 5 years of driving really got the fill plug stuck. PB blaster didn't help much because the collar kept it from getting at the area under the collar. Plus you could not get anything more the about 6" 13mm wrench so leveage was minimal.

Interestingly enought the Haldex fill plug was insanely tight on my 2008 VW R32. I wonder if they are really torqued down from the factory. I only got that one loose because I could be a big wrench on it.

I should have taken pictures, which was my intent, but the damn fill plugs pissed me off and caused me to forget!

They are simple to find. They are located on the driverside, just above the rear subframe. They are side-by-side 13mm and look different then the other bolts.