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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
What ticks me off more than the lack of an indicator is the owners manual. The 06 XC90 owners manual discusses the indicator. What they fail to mention is that it is only on the V8,not the 2.5. What a surprise I got when I checked the oil one chilly morning and it was 2 qts low. Fool me once...
the indicator is when you take a hard turn, the oil pressure light comes on and you have to fill up close to 4 litres of oil :facepalm:
 

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I was surprised too at all the chatter from the lifters when using castrol syntec. It was there for a few minutes until the engine warmed up and then it was quiet but too noisy for comfort.

As soon as I switched to hi mileage, I noticed much less chatter and less prolonged.
What about Mobil 1 Synthetic High Mileage 5W-30 as a synthetic? I put together an extensive spreadsheet of oils and their product data and like Mobil 1's synthetic high mileage oils I currently use it in various older vehicles. The viscosity rating for the M1 High Mileage at 40C is 72, versus 62.6 for the Castrol Edge. The pour point is at -36C for the Mobil 1. The extra lower temp viscosity may help with "cushoning" extra play or wear in the valvetrain or piston rings when cold.

The viscosity at 100C for the M1 5W-30 High Mileage is between M1/Castrol Edge 5W-30 weight and the 0W/5W-40 synthetics (M1, Castrol, Liquimoly, Royal Purple), which could help with normal operating temp stability, blow-by, and other reasons for oil consumption.

Depending on the additive package for High Mileage, it may help with the build-up of varnish or sludge inside hydraulic lifters, something that may have happened from the previous owner.

Regardless of "desktop" data, the best way to know is to try in a real-world setting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
What about Mobil 1 Synthetic High Mileage 5W-30 as a synthetic? I put together an extensive spreadsheet of oils and their product data and like Mobil 1's synthetic high mileage oils I currently use it in various older vehicles. The viscosity rating for the M1 High Mileage at 40C is 72, versus 62.6 for the Castrol Edge. The pour point is at -36C for the Mobil 1. The extra lower temp viscosity may help with "cushoning" extra play or wear in the valvetrain or piston rings when cold.

The viscosity at 100C for the M1 5W-30 High Mileage is between M1/Castrol Edge 5W-30 weight and the 0W/5W-40 synthetics (M1, Castrol, Liquimoly, Royal Purple), which could help with normal operating temp stability, blow-by, and other reasons for oil consumption.

Depending on the additive package for High Mileage, it may help with the build-up of varnish or sludge inside hydraulic lifters, something that may have happened from the previous owner.

Regardless of "desktop" data, the best way to know is to try in a real-world setting.
I'm tempted to try mobil1 high mileage because its full synthetic, however, I haven't had any issue with castrol hi mileage and have been using it for the last 7 years. Unless there is a good chance, it will reduce my current oil leak, Id rather not change whats working.
 

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I'm tempted to try mobil1 high mileage because its full synthetic, however, I haven't had any issue with castrol hi mileage and have been using it for the last 7 years. Unless there is a good chance, it will reduce my current oil leak, Id rather not change whats working.
I have not had luck with M1 in my Volvos. I tried it in my V8 the last oil change and got a low light at about 6k miles (granted its only a half qt) but I did not have it before. Google it, there is a lot of similar instances. I went back to Castrol on this last oil change and got a Low light at 6800 so there is definitely a difference. I did not get that light in any of the previous 4 changes prior to. I had some oil loss on my 3.2 and I ran M1 all the time on that, I just didn't put 2+2 together. Maybe just coincidence. maybe not.
 

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I have not had luck with M1 in my Volvos. I tried it in my V8 the last oil change and got a low light at about 6k miles (granted its only a half qt) but I did not have it before. Google it, there is a lot of similar instances. I went back to Castrol on this last oil change and got a Low light at 6800 so there is definitely a difference. I did not get that light in any of the previous 4 changes prior to. I had some oil loss on my 3.2 and I ran M1 all the time on that, I just didn't put 2+2 together. Maybe just coincidence. maybe not.
Which Mobil 1 weights and versions are you using. I use regular M1 0W-40 in my 3.2 with zero oil consumption, but have seen regular M1 5w-30 oil consumption in other European vehicles. For higher mileage or older cars, I have not seen the same oil consumption with the M1 High Mileage version. In a 1992 BMW 850i (10W-40), 1995 MB S500 (5W-30), 1980 MB 450SL (10W-40) no consumption. In a 2009 Honda Pilot 3.5 with 165k miles the High Mileage M1 (5W-20) reduced the oil consumption regularly seen in Honda V6s.

So yeah, I wouldn't use the regular M1 5W-30 oil personally, but I do like the 0W-40 and the High Mileage synthetic. In my 2011 BMW 535xi, I use either M1 0W-40 or Castrol's 0W/5W-40 depending on the season. I have zero consumption in that turbo engine. If I had to use a 5W-30 in a newer engine, I might use Pennzoil.

The important thing is to try what works for each person's vehicle. These synthetics are all good options. Quality dino oils do fine as long as the oil is changed regularly and at the right interval for your driving conditions.

Should we end another oil thread?
 

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I use M1 at the rated 10W-30 in the 3.2L. Works fine.... I use M1 10W30 in my RWD Volvo's except the turbo, which gets M1 10W-40.

Synthetic oil really is what belongs in modern engines. I love the low end torque of torque of turbos, but they are kinda like factory-installed oil leaks on some level. :)

-Ryan
 

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A buddy of mine bought a dump/sand truck from the state at auction a few years ago. I know it isn't a sophisticated or even reliable motor. And it isn't even a Ford product. A rod bent at 333K miles. He is rebuilding the motor He sent me pictures of the cylinders. Regular oil changes with dino. I apologize in advance for going out of bounds by comparing a crude, pathetic Chevy motor to the wonders in our cars. On the other hand, maybe all this oil analysis discussion is nonsense as long as it is changed regularly.
 

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I have not had luck with M1 in my Volvos. I tried it in my V8 the last oil change and got a low light at about 6k miles (granted its only a half qt) but I did not have it before. Google it, there is a lot of similar instances. I went back to Castrol on this last oil change and got a Low light at 6800 so there is definitely a difference. I did not get that light in any of the previous 4 changes prior to. I had some oil loss on my 3.2 and I ran M1 all the time on that, I just didn't put 2+2 together. Maybe just coincidence. maybe not.
I recall several years ago when reading Edmund's long-term test of the 2008 Cadillac CTS (and a few other GM vehicles) that "recommended" (fancy way of saying GM was paid) using Mobile1 oil. The conclusion was they all had oil consumption issues. Switching to a different brand (can't recall which) made the problem go away. I've seen reference to Mobile1 oil consumption in various other vehicles in other forums over the years, as well. It's been enough for me to steer clear of using it. Since the last oil change in my '06 V8 was Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic, I have yet to get the low oil message in a timespan that I did with the last oil I was using. I'll probably stick to using it in the Volvo, and I'll use it when I change the oil in the Lincoln soon. I gotta keep those twin turbos happy...
 

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I recall several years ago when reading Edmund's long-term test of the 2008 Cadillac CTS (and a few other GM vehicles) that "recommended" (fancy way of saying GM was paid) using Mobile1 oil. The conclusion was they all had oil consumption issues. Switching to a different brand (can't recall which) made the problem go away. I've seen reference to Mobile1 oil consumption in various other vehicles in other forums over the years, as well. It's been enough for me to steer clear of using it. Since the last oil change in my '06 V8 was Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic, I have yet to get the low oil message in a timespan that I did with the last oil I was using. I'll probably stick to using it in the Volvo, and I'll use it when I change the oil in the Lincoln soon. I gotta keep those twin turbos happy...
My experience has been completely opposite with M1. Very little, or no oil consumption..... even with the 1995 945 turbo, which kinda should be burning oil as it's got a 25 year old turbo on it!

The Pennzoil Euro Platinum seems to be quite good. It's "approved" buy Fiat-Chrysler (which means Pennzoil paid them an arm and leg to get the made-up specification). I run it in my wife's turbo Fiat 500X, and can't complain whatsoever. Little spendy, though.

-Ryan
 

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Our current Wal*Mart flyer has Castrol Syntech and Syntech HM on sale 5 qt jug for $25.00
 

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I have not had luck with M1 in my Volvos. I tried it in my V8 the last oil change and got a low light at about 6k miles (granted its only a half qt) but I did not have it before. Google it, there is a lot of similar instances. I went back to Castrol on this last oil change and got a Low light at 6800 so there is definitely a difference. I did not get that light in any of the previous 4 changes prior to. I had some oil loss on my 3.2 and I ran M1 all the time on that, I just didn't put 2+2 together. Maybe just coincidence. maybe not.
so just figure I’d update this. I made it on the second castrol change with no indicator. I’m gunna stick with that from here on out in the V8.
 

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so just figure I’d update this. I made it on the second castrol change with no indicator. I’m gunna stick with that from here on out in the V8.
I take any post about oil with a grain of salt without a posting of the weight or version. It was asked before, what weight and version oil are you talking about?

I use M1 0W-40 in the 3.2 with zero oil consumption and I also use it because it has great anti-wear additives. Then tried 5 different synthetics in an XC90 2.5t (M1 0W-40 & 5W-30, Castrol 0W-40 & 5W-40, Royal Purple 5W-30) and the best year round synthetic of those was the Castrol 0W-40 which had the best balance of starting in below freezing cold and limiting oil consumption when hot.
 

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I take any post about oil with a grain of salt without a posting of the weight or version. It was asked before, what weight and version oil are you talking about?

I use M1 0W-40 in the 3.2 with zero oil consumption and I also use it because it has great anti-wear additives. Then tried 5 different synthetics in an XC90 2.5t (M1 0W-40 & 5W-30, Castrol 0W-40 & 5W-40, Royal Purple 5W-30) and the best year round synthetic of those was the Castrol 0W-40 which had the best balance of starting in below freezing cold and limiting oil consumption when hot.
. Sorry, castrol edge 5w30. FWIW, I had no consumption issues in the 3.2 until around 170k and I used M1 5w30 in that from 60k on.
 

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I don't know too much about the history of mine because it had 112K miles when I got it, but I went for about 2 years and never had to add an ounce of oil between changes. The first time I tried Castrol High Mileage 5W-30 (not sure what flavor it was) I got the oil warning light after about 2500 miles. It completely freaked me out as I'd never seen it before. Over the last 25K miles it has worked up to about a quart every 1200 miles. Ive tried several synthetics and semi-synthetics, I think all high mileage and all 5W-30. My last change was to standard Castrol 5W-30 dino oil. Too soon to tell.

Do I really need the 5W rating? (Probably so since it ticks on cold starts). I'm tempted to try 10W-40 for the summer.
 

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. Sorry, castrol edge 5w30. FWIW, I had no consumption issues in the 3.2 until around 170k and I used M1 5w30 in that from 60k on.
The Castrol synthetics typically run a little thicker, or higher viscosity, compared to the Mobil 1 counterparts. So, it would be expected to have less oil consumption due to blow by or burn off. Good switch.

I don't know too much about the history of mine because it had 112K miles when I got it, but I went for about 2 years and never had to add an ounce of oil between changes. The first time I tried Castrol High Mileage 5W-30 (not sure what flavor it was) I got the oil warning light after about 2500 miles. It completely freaked me out as I'd never seen it before. Over the last 25K miles it has worked up to about a quart every 1200 miles. Ive tried several synthetics and semi-synthetics, I think all high mileage and all 5W-30. My last change was to standard Castrol 5W-30 dino oil. Too soon to tell.

Do I really need the 5W rating? (Probably so since it ticks on cold starts). I'm tempted to try 10W-40 for the summer.
The high mileage oils, including the Castrol high mileage oils, have a higher amount of detergents which can act like abrasives. If you are going to go thicker, I would at least try some of the 0W-40 oils, either Mobil 1 or Castrol (slightly thicker). They give better wear protection in below freezing temps due to better oil flow, act like a 5W-30 in normal outside and operating temps, and is more consistent (less thinning) when the engine/outside temps get hot. It also has higher metal protecting anti-wear additives compared to the regular Mobil 1 5W-30, Castrol 5W-30, and even both M1 and Castrol 10W-40.

With either an M1 or Castrol Edge 10W-40, you are entering a much thicker oil category which will be felt in fuel economy and thus you might need to push the engine harder. The Mobil 1 0W-40 shear rating is nearly the same as a Castrol Edge 10W-40, but the M1 0W-40 will help with flow protection in lower temps and with the higher wear additives so hopefully, oil consumption doesn't get worse. I couldn't find the Castrol 0W-40 shear rating.

The 5W-30 and 10W-40 oils are old viscosity oils. When the needs of newer engines changed the 0W-40 was developed, such as for higher compression, softer metals to save weight, keeping turbo bearings happy in a daily driver, and running hotter operating temps to be more efficient. Not sure why more people are not trying it. I started to phase in other older cars to the 0W-40 oils in which I used 10W-40 M1 HM previously for thousands of miles with great success too.
 

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2005 Volvo XC90 2.5 T 110K, put on maybe 6000 a year.

Here is a data point.. Put in M1 0W-40 for the first time, 6000 miles ago... the dreaded No Oil Pressure Stop Safely light came on... was swearing thinking that I only had changed the oil seals at 100K.... and it turned out that the oil got so black and dirty, maybe from the cleaning it did, to block the pickup screen.......and get this..... when changing oil, the oil level went WAY down since the last time I checked it a month ago or 500 miles or so. So, I swapped it out in a panic, with 5w-30 castrol gtx high mileage blend, because thats all they had at my walmart, and I'll do a change again early say 4000 miles this time... but I'm surprised that the change interval couldn't go til 7500 per the manual. Granted, I'm doing alot of short trips, and I did notice the mpg go down on few times I'm on highway.

And aside, the low oil level indicator never went off. Maybe there isn't one on the 2.5T ????? Does anyone know this ???
 

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I'm curious; how do you know it blocked the pickup screen, and how did you clean it?

More common is all the crud blocks the oil filter, but that usually sends it into bypass, allowing the crud into the engine oil passages and causing catastrophic engine failure.
 

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I'm curious; how do you know it blocked the pickup screen, and how did you clean it?

More common is all the crud blocks the oil filter, but that usually sends it into bypass, allowing the crud into the engine oil passages and causing catastrophic engine failure.
I don't know, all I know was the oil was jet black... though the filter wasn't bad at all. But new oil and filter and only 6000 miles later, wouldn't generate enough crud to block the filter, but the pickup screen is tiny so I assumed this, and the symptoms suggest it. The symptoms started by the red triangle flickering at idle, and then progressively got worse.. and if shut car off, and say waited an hour, upon startup it'd be fine, until maybe five min later and the red triangle again. But if it bypassed the oil filter, then the pressure wouldn't drop..thus I assumed it was the pickup... Now its fine. And I didn't clean the pickup... just put in new oil and filter.... for 10K miles ago had to replace the seals and did a complete clean of pan, along with a few rapid oil changes at 2500 intervals, until this last one.
 

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It's probably just a coincidence, but, up until about 150,000 miles* I used conventional Castrol oil and never had to add oil between changes. Immediately upon trying the high mileage variant, I got the low oil warning. Now, at 163K miles I'm adding a quart every 1000 - 1500 miles. :mad:

*I acquired the car with 112K miles. I have no idea what was used prior to that time.

I describe here my experience switching to synthetic oil https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGU-f1MA-VY
 
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