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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had my doors apart a few weeks ago to add some sound proofing and I noticed the Volvo speaker mounts seem to be held in place by rivets. Has anyone else drilled these out and then reattached them later with screws? I don't have rivet equipment.
 

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Re: Anyone removed speaker frame/mount from front doors? (ss60)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>ss60</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Had my doors apart a few weeks ago to add some sound proofing and I noticed the Volvo speaker mounts seem to be held in place by rivets. Has anyone else drilled these out and then reattached them later with screws? I don't have rivet equipment.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Yes, I had the dealer install the dynaudio premium speaker upgrades into my front doors and they had to drill out the rivets and replace with screws. Not a big deal, and the new speakers sound awesome! You should do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Anyone removed speaker frame/mount from front doors? (darylkaiser30)

I just want to get behind the speakers so I can cover the panel with a damper.<p>I replaced the crappy Volvo speakers with Boston Acoutics 2 years ago so that's already been done.
 

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Re: Anyone removed speaker frame/mount from front doors? (ss60)

Yes I have... by audio installers at Circuit City and as they were drilling into the rivets, they forgot to pull up the window and guess what. They drilled into the window! BE CAREFUL!
 

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Re: Anyone removed speaker frame/mount from front doors? (myVolvoS60T5)

Thanks for the warning, I would have had the window down to remove the panel and done the same thing, yikes!
 

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I haven't drilled THOSE rivets, but I have drilled many many many rivets of all types and sizes. <p>Like what as been said already, be aware of what is behind the rivets and put a block of wood behind them if needed to prevent damage. <p>If the rivets have a steel pin with a little locking collar, it is often easier to start by grinding the head down with a dremel tool and a cutoff wheel until you are almost through the head of the rivet. <p>Then, start with a small drill bit but not so small its flimsy and drill right through the center of the rivet. Go slowly and take your time, this is where you can mess up. If you feel you are close to the diameter of the shank, put a punch or pick through the hole and wiggle it around some, they will often pop out easily. If not then go up a size with your drill bit and repeat until the rivet comes loose. As long as you can reach the backside of the hole, its best just to replace the rivet with a screw and lock nut. If you cant, I would consider a riv-nutter (kits are at Harbor Freight).
 
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