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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased the downpipe from Eurosport Tuning (this isn't a problem with the product, btw). The muffler shop that I brought it to, couldn't get the stock nuts off the turbo. They tried for an hour, but were afraid to put too much pressure on it, in fear that they might torque the stud right off.<p>Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, what was the resolution?<p>Thanks!<p>I did have the muffler installed though. Needs to be recentered slightly, but sounds nice. Haven't noticed too mch difference in power. I'm still waiting for my chip to come in, which should be sometime next week...
 

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Re: Anyone have problems installing downpipe? (GoSwedeRacer)

the down pipe is really suck on, I think there are 12mm heads, anyway order 3 new ones as the old ones will be buggered. I used a 1/2 drive 6 point socket with a tight fit and took all kinds of junk out just to get a straight shot, like the intake track etc. They are really tight and if you don't go at it just right you will just have a stripped head. Even my snap-on 6 point did not have a tight enough fit, I got one from autozone that was very snug.... both flank drive BTW.. and use some good penetrating lube... not wd40
 

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Re: Anyone have problems installing downpipe? (Oldman)

Thanks Oldman!<p>Did you go in from below or from the top? It sounds like the top, since you took the intake pipe out. Do you have the part # for the bolts by chance? Also, since I didn't look closely, is the actual part that unscrews the entire bolt or the nut (meaning a bolt stud is left on the turbo.) I hope that made sense.
 

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Re: Anyone have problems installing downpipe? (GoSwedeRacer)

it is a bolt with integrated washer, I took the top one off from the top and the two lower ones from the bottom. I can't say enough about needing a straight shot as any deflection will tend to piviot the socket off the head of the bolt, these bolts are very stuck, after getting them off they had maybe an 1/8 degree twist on the head itself, too tight for 12 mm heads on a say 10 mm shaft. just looked for the part number can't find it but did note the old bolts are 10mm head... very small
 

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Sounds like this is what happened to me. I had mine installed at a muffler shop and I've since been back every 1000 miles (twice) to get the downpipe tightened to the intake. It's robbing me of power and sounds like crap and it's beginning to drive me bonkers with the thought of having to deal with my warranty or a lawyer or something and the muffler shop.<p>I think I may try getting new bolts and check if that helps... Swede, if you find the part # could you post it here?
 

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Re: (davidklaw)

Flange Screw 30614458 qty 3.<p>I strongly recommend replacing the gasket, especially if the flange has been leaking. Its "crush" is part of the holding power, if that's gone the flange will move the bolts.<p>Gasket 30677190.<p>Tom.
 

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Re: (tmtalpey)

most times these gaskets can be reused by quenching them first: heat them to red hot on a gas stove and dropping them into water.
 

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Thanks gentlemen, I assume it's the case I'll need some extensions for my tools to get at these bolts? I didn't do the original work as mentioned above, but I'd like to just do this fix myself.
 

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Re: (davidklaw)

I did not use any extension, as these tend to put a torque on the heads. 10mm and a ratchet is what I used to breakum. It well worth being paranoid and getting the best grip with the straightest shot, as you maynot get a second chance.
 

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For anyone in the same boat; the gasket is roughly $8 and the 3 screws total about $15.
 

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Last week I put the car up to finally try to relieve my exhaust problem. Found that indeed the original bolts must have been stripped because 2 of the 3 were just some random bolts I guess the muffler shop had. Anyways, I take those out, pull the downpipe away and realize the new gasket I bought is replacing a non-existant one. So either they tossed the original gasket or it magically dissapeared. I fit the new one around the lip of the exhaust manifold outlet and bolted it back up even though the gasket didn't exactly fit.<p>Still the same problem and it's no doubt that it probably has to do with that gasket. I just hear wooshing air when I step on it.
 

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Re: (davidklaw)

Nice muffler shop. NOT. Well, undoing the damage they did will be a lot less expensive for you if you do it yourself, but it sounds like there may be multiple issues. Are you sure the whooshing is coming from the flange? Carefully put your hand down there and see if you can identify a leak, even at idle it should be perceptible. Or, use a smoke pencil to at least narrow it down. Was there any burning or discolored area of the DP? Any hoses or pipes not clearly seated? You really have to widen your net, after what they did.<p>Note, if you do have an air leak so close to the manifold, you could do some real damage. The O2 sensors will be greatly affected by it, and so your mixture may be way off. Is the car driving ok otherwise?<p>Tom.
 

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Yes the car is driving fine otherwise, after I reach about 2k rpms or so it seems fine, it's just the initial acceleration that seems to be affected.<p>I'll keep in mind what you've said here and take another look underneath the car this weekend when it's not 104 degrees out!
 

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Re: (davidklaw)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>davidklaw</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after I reach about 2k rpms or so it seems fine, it's just the initial acceleration that seems to be affected.</TD></TR></TABLE><br>A-ha. Might not be exhaust. Go over the turbo plumbing carefully. From beneath, if you can get it up on a lift that's ideal.<p>Tom.
 
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