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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a bit of a situation and decision to make. Long story short, went camping last weekend and on the way back back home the engine started misfiring. Checked it out the next day and found cylinder 2 has no compression. No exhaust gases coming out of oil filler so a burnt valve is suspected. The engine has 192k on it.

Got a quote from the local dealer for about 5k with a used engine with 39k on it that they found at a local reputable scrap yard. I can buy the same engine for about $500 but it has a broken oil pan, intake, and timing cover. Has anyone here replaced their engine on their own? I was an auto tech for about 8 years and have replaced several engines so I'm no stranger but I'd like to know what I'd be getting myself into. Also, I have since moved on from auto mechanics so don't have every day use of a hoist. I may be able to use one for a weekend though.
 

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someone like ProlixArgon would probably be your best bet to communicate with directly.

I would personally want to know first if the electronics would all work out properly.
 

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I wouldn't trust an engine with a broken timing cover. Timing cover being damaged also means the gear casing going to the alternator is probably also compromised and that's another can of worms.

I've not seen one of these engines burn a valve, but the average miles are increasing, so I'm not surprised to hear it's happened.

With as many of these engines that are available, I wouldn't bother getting one that's already damaged to try and save costs. Having to source the alternator gear casing along would negate costs. There are a lot of these engines available!

As far as how easy a job is it to do? I can't speak for what you are comfortable with but book time is a 20 hour job. These are modular engines and not that much to swap, but they're a beast to change. You either need to take it out of the front (removing the entire front end) or to take it out of the bottom.
 

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You could inspect #2 with a fiber optic cam to pin down the reason for loss of compression. That might help you....sounds like a hard decision.

If you're 100% certain the problem is a cyl. #2 valve leaking, you might consider only replacing the head assy., which implies re-establishing cam timing. How would that compare in complexity with a complete engine swap? In things that could go wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the input guys, I've been too busy with work and replacing the engine to get on here and reply in a timely manner. I decided to go with the engine replacement as having the head worked through would have cost more than replacing the whole unit. It turns out the issue was sticking valves which I had been feeling while accelerating but never really figured out until it was too late. All in all it wasn't too bad replacing the engine, just very time consuming. I took the opportunity to replace all the engine and trans mounts while I had everything apart as well as a new water pump, idler pulley, tensioner, and drive belt. I also rebuilt the vacuum pump as it was leaking oil on the engine I picked up. The car is currently running great with not a single error code on VIDA which is a first for any Volvo I've owned or scanned.
 

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Mine (T6) was replaced by Volvo at 49,900 miles.
 
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