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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a few extra Blackstone Oil Analysis kits on hand, so figured I would do one on the wife's 2016, with 40K miles. Did the oil change right at 10K interval and the results were less than stellar from the looks of it. I uploaded the actual report and highlighted the areas of concern. Only thing that might have thrown off the test is the fact they have it shown as a 3.0 T6, not our 2.0. I don't know if that would make any difference on the Universal Averages or not. If anyone has a deeper knowledge of these things and would like to add their opinions, I'd be all ears. Plan on keeping this car for a long time as it's all but paid off at this point. But, if it's on a road to an early death, I don't want to be a part of that.
 

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I had a few extra Blackstone Oil Analysis kits on hand, so figured I would do one on the wife's 2016, with 40K miles. Did the oil change right at 10K interval and the results were less than stellar from the looks of it. I uploaded the actual report and highlighted the areas of concern. Only thing that might have thrown off the test is the fact they have it shown as a 3.0 T6, not our 2.0. I don't know if that would make any difference on the Universal Averages or not. If anyone has a deeper knowledge of these things and would like to add their opinions, I'd be all ears. Plan on keeping this car for a long time as it's all but paid off at this point. But, if it's on a road to an early death, I don't want to be a part of that.
The results for 3.0L and 2.0L will be completely different. I would not worry about the results as comparing two different engines is not relevant. You did list this as a 3.0L turbo though...

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's good to hear, thanks!

They entered that 3.0 T6 on their end, the sheet I filled out with my sample had the 2.0. I responded to them, I hope they can revise the report to give me the right analysis.
 

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That's good to hear, thanks!

They entered that 3.0 T6 on their end, the sheet I filled out with my sample had the 2.0. I responded to them, I hope they can revise the report to give me the right analysis.
Ah, fair enough. In terms of oil change intervals - I would suggest lowering the interval to 8,000 miles. As you said, you would like to keep the car for a long time; my opinion is 10,000 miles is far too long.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ah, fair enough. In terms of oil change intervals - I would suggest lowering the interval to 8,000 miles. As you said, you would like to keep the car for a long time; my opinion is 10,000 miles is far too long.

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I'll also be curious now that I'm not going to have the oil changes done at the dealer and will be handling myself, using Liqui Moly oil, not the dealer's blend.
 

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I'll also be curious now that I'm not going to have the oil changes done at the dealer and will be handling myself, using Liqui Moly oil, not the dealer's blend.
There's a lot of speculation on engine oil. I am one of those people who like to try different oils but honestly at the end of the day, Pennzoil Platinum is probably the best oil for the money.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There's a lot of speculation on engine oil. I am one of those people who like to try different oils but honestly at the end of the day, Pennzoil Platinum is probably the best oil for the money.

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I've never used Pennzoil honestly. Not that I have anything against it, just not been a brand I've used. I bought the Liqui Moly because I bought the kit off of FCP Euro and that's what came with it.
 

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I've never used Pennzoil honestly. Not that I have anything against it, just not been a brand I've used. I bought the Liqui Moly because I bought the kit off of FCP Euro and that's what came with it.
I'm sure it's good oil. Pennzoil is pretty standard these days from the OEMs. And hell, if it's good enough for Ferarri, it's good enough for my Volvo.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm sure it's good oil. Pennzoil is pretty standard these days from the OEMs. And hell, if it's good enough for Ferarri, it's good enough for my Volvo.

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You'd think so, right??
 

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Longer intervals, beyond 5000 miles for most people, just aren't good. Air filtration is not 100%, not any brand. the filter stops anything bigger than its pore size and there is some micro particles that pass and end up in oil. Fuel dilution builds. ALL ENGINES USE OIL. Valve guides, turbo seals, and cylinder wall lubrication all sacrifice oil. If the fuel and dirt and combustion waste gain equals sacrificed oil loss then you have an engine that "doesn't use any oil". The only way those accumulated contaminants go away is through draining them out. If you add bypass oil filtration you can get the silicon and combustion waste but fuel dilution is not affected. UOA can let you set the drain point to some milage that stops before harmful levels are reached. BUT if you change it earlier with less costly oil you will have no issues. The benefits of the most costly oils are only realized by most of us if the drain interval is stretched out to 10K or beyond. The problem is those great oils have nothing that gets rid of silicon and airborne stuff. The ever increasing failures of timing chain drive (not a worry for Drive-E engines) pieces on engines in most all makes is oil change interval related. OK, off my soapbox. If you have EXTREMELY high concern for the environment then go 10K miles to reduce the waste residue even recycling oil still creates. My feeling is at some point the failures from too long interval creates a harm on environment from manufacturing parts that would not have been needed.
 

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Longer intervals, beyond 5000 miles for most people, just aren't good. Air filtration is not 100%, not any brand. the filter stops anything bigger than its pore size and there is some micro particles that pass and end up in oil. Fuel dilution builds. ALL ENGINES USE OIL. Valve guides, turbo seals, and cylinder wall lubrication all sacrifice oil. If the fuel and dirt and combustion waste gain equals sacrificed oil loss then you have an engine that "doesn't use any oil". The only way those accumulated contaminants go away is through draining them out. If you add bypass oil filtration you can get the silicon and combustion waste but fuel dilution is not affected. UOA can let you set the drain point to some milage that stops before harmful levels are reached. BUT if you change it earlier with less costly oil you will have no issues. The benefits of the most costly oils are only realized by most of us if the drain interval is stretched out to 10K or beyond. The problem is those great oils have nothing that gets rid of silicon and airborne stuff. The ever increasing failures of timing chain drive (not a worry for Drive-E engines) pieces on engines in most all makes is oil change interval related. OK, off my soapbox. If you have EXTREMELY high concern for the environment then go 10K miles to reduce the waste residue even recycling oil still creates. My feeling is at some point the failures from too long interval creates a harm on environment from manufacturing parts that would not have been needed.
Excellent point. Let me add my 2 cents; Manufacturers stretch the OCI to appear more "green" and to promote accelerated engine wear. They don't want your engine to last 10+ years. Shorten your intervals and you'll enjoy your car for longer with fewer repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got it amended to the correct engine, appears to have made a big difference. Will probably do another one at 50K.
 

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