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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
So in the upcoming months I plan on doing some major work to my 07 s60 2.5t. My question is can anyone estimate or have an idea of what kind of numbers I'll be getting after all the modification. Hopefully someone out there has a similar setup on their car and has dyno results or something.
Here's a list of upcoming mods
-Snabb intake elbow
-BSR optiflow filter
-cat less downpipe and exhaust haven't decided what kind yet
-16t turbo
-green injectors
-water methanol injection
-fmic probably snabb kit
-ARD tune

I've tried to guess hp before myself I guessed close to 300 chp give or take some no clue what torque I'd be looking at. Any help is appreciated and also mod suggestions are welcome. Once I start the build I'll be sure to make a thread about it.

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Hello,
So in the upcoming months I plan on doing some major work to my 07 s60 2.5t. My question is can anyone estimate or have an idea of what kind of numbers I'll be getting after all the modification. Hopefully someone out there has a similar setup on their car and has dyno results or something.
Here's a list of upcoming mods
-Snabb intake elbow
-BSR optiflow filter
-cat less downpipe and exhaust haven't decided what kind yet
-16t turbo
-green injectors
-water methanol injection
-fmic probably snabb kit
-ARD tune

I've tried to guess hp before myself I guessed close to 300 chp give or take some no clue what torque I'd be looking at. Any help is appreciated and also mod suggestions are welcome. Once I start the build I'll be sure to make a thread about it.

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I don't have any numbers yet either.
I have intake, turbo back catless exhaust to a magnaflow, greens, 16T, and purchasing CX Racing eBay FMIC hopefully this week.

I think 260-270awhp would translate close to 300 at crank which is my goal for this vehicle.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't have any numbers yet either.
I have intake, turbo back catless exhaust to a magnaflow, greens, 16T, and purchasing CX Racing eBay FMIC hopefully this week.

I think 260-270awhp would translate close to 300 at crank which is my goal for this vehicle.

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That's the numbers I came up with as well but still no idea on the torque. I know somebody has to have dyno results

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You would be better off going to buy a r model,where you already have that HP and no mods that you have to have some one tune all that crap on you ecm,and hope cel don't show up to worry the crap out of you!!
 

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I have a similar setup on my XC70. Not sure what my FWD HP is, but my AWD HP was ~225hp on a 32*C day on my previous ARD tune, haven't put the Hilton Tune on the dyno yet. According to MAF reading I have ~300-310HP at the crank.



You would be better off going to buy a r model,where you already have that HP and no mods that you have to have some one tune all that crap on you ecm,and hope cel don't show up to worry the crap out of you!!
Sure, but you'd have to find a R in good condition and refrain from modifying it :D Aswell, do you want things like 4C, R Brakes, AWD, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You would be better off going to buy a r model,where you already have that HP and no mods that you have to have some one tune all that crap on you ecm,and hope cel don't show up to worry the crap out of you!!
An R would have been out of my price range and they're weren't any in decent shape close that I found. With the price of my car and the mods it will still be less than the cost of an R. Besides the tune is the simple part ARD already has the map for what I'm doing and it's plug and play to install. Besides the 2.5t is much more of a sleeper love the look on someone's face when you zip by them in a race and they don't know what happened

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Besides the tune is the simple part ARD already has the map for what I'm doing and it's plug and play to install.
I did not have the greatest experience with this "pulg and play" tune. I suggest purchasing a VIDA/DiCE unit and going with a Hilton Tune. Hilton tailors the tune to your vehicle based off of logs from live data.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did not have the greatest experience with this "pulg and play" tune. I suggest purchasing a VIDA/DiCE unit and going with a Hilton Tune. Hilton tailors the tune to your vehicle based off of logs from live data.
From what I've looked at with Hilton it's just too pricey for my liking. Lots of members have said good things about Lucky over at ARD. I don't know however if Lucky would take a look at my logs if I send them with my ecu or not, I would think so though maybe someone can chime in on that.

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My problem with Lucky is that he does have a history of messing up ME7 tunes, and will absolutely not admit fault or refund your money even when you prove the tune was bad. Several of us here spent a lot of time chasing problems that didn't exist because of him. Both me and Antherzoll had trouble with ARD tunes, and many more if you search around. Lucky's troubleshooting help was "something is wrong with your car, start replacing parts at your own expense". None of which fixes anything. Slap in a different tune, bam. Car runs perfect.

If Hilton is too expensive, go with JZW. His tunes work great, he really knows his stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My problem with Lucky is that he does have a history of messing up ME7 tunes, and will absolutely not admit fault or refund your money even when you prove the tune was bad. Several of us here spent a lot of time chasing problems that didn't exist because of him. Both me and Antherzoll had trouble with ARD tunes, and many more if you search around. Lucky's troubleshooting help was "something is wrong with your car, start replacing parts at your own expense". None of which fixes anything. Slap in a different tune, bam. Car runs perfect.

If Hilton is too expensive, go with JZW. His tunes work great, he really knows his stuff.
Just checked out JZW looks like a winner to me and at a good price. Thanks for the heads up on that.

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JZW was a strong 2nd option for me, so +1 on the recommendation.

Although no experience with the tune, JZW was prompt, knowledgeable, and friendly throughout our e-mail conversation.
 

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You would be better off going to buy a r model,where you already have that HP and no mods that you have to have some one tune all that crap on you ecm,and hope cel don't show up to worry the crap out of you!!
If CEL's worry you probably shouldn't modify your car lol.

Find a running not wrecked R for $1500. Ha

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
For the price of a 16t I could also get a 19t turbo. Been trying to look and haven't really found any long term answers. Most of what I have seen is that with a good tune you won't bend rods and need to replace internals. Hopefully someone with a 19t can shed some light on the subject.

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For the price of a 16t I could also get a 19t turbo. Been trying to look and haven't really found any long term answers. Most of what I have seen is that with a good tune you won't bend rods and need to replace internals. Hopefully someone with a 19t can shed some light on the subject.

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I have a 2.3 T5, ported head with matched intake and R manifold. 3" exhaust from the turbo to a magnaflow, carbon intake canister, snabb intake and custom front mount intercooler. Brand new volvo 18T with ARD billet wheel and ARD blue tune set for a max of 18psi.

I've walked all over STI's, Audi's, Bimmers, Mustangs. The only car that I've ever run with that left me was a Jag XF. I'd estimate over 300whp with my setup.
 

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Depends on your goals?
By going with a larger turbo you are shifting the power band later within the RPM range.

I have no experience with the 18T or 19T. I decided to go with the 16T because it has a more useful power range for me and was also promoted as being safer. From what I've read, the 18T and 19T will have more lag than the 16T.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Depends on your goals?
By going with a larger turbo you are shifting the power band later within the RPM range.

I have no experience with the 18T or 19T, my decision to go with the 16T is because it has a more useful power range for me and was also promoted as being safer. From what I've read, the 18T and 19T will have more lag than the 16T.
I've always thought the 16t would be safer as well but from some reading that may not be the case entirely. Some say just a good setup on a 19t just as safe as a 19t.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have a 2.3 T5, ported head with matched intake and R manifold. 3" exhaust from the turbo to a magnaflow, carbon intake canister, snabb intake and custom front mount intercooler. Brand new volvo 18T with ARD billet wheel and ARD blue tune set for a max of 18psi.

I've walked all over STI's, Audi's, Bimmers, Mustangs. The only car that I've ever run with that left me was a Jag XF. I'd estimate over 300whp with my setup.
Well the jag should be running 300 something at the crank so that's a fast car lol

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Should also mention that I have the 11 blade GTX billet compressor wheel and the 11 blade turbine wheel that will help to increase flow at the top end.

It's true, it does all come down to the tuning. You won't be dissapointed with either, anything is better than the stock turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Should also mention that I have the 11 blade GTX billet compressor wheel and the 11 blade turbine wheel that will help to increase flow at the top end.

It's true, it does all come down to the tuning. You won't be dissapointed with either, anything is better than the stock turbo.
Been alot of debate if billet compressor wheels are actually better but I like to think they do. My main concern is that a 19t would make more power than the engine and drivetrain could handle but I guess others have been running them successfully with a good tune.

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The 19T was a stock turbo on 2000 V70Rs which did not have a special engine or rods or anything. The stock engine can handle it just fine. As long as the boost doesn't come on strong below around 2500 RPM there's basically no risk to the engine.
 
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