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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
how complicated is it to replace pads, DIY? ...how about disks?<p>I'm looking at about $400 in labor to get a dealer to do it for me on all 4 wheels. parts are an additional cost. The rotors might need replacing as well just want to be prepared in case it is necessary.<p>I just ordered the hawk and akebono combo and I like to avoid the lazy idiot costs, if possible. <p>any special tools required?<p>...would appreciate any help. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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there have been a few threads on this, I found this site to be EXTREMELY helpful!<p><A HREF="http://home.comcast.net/~toddhaddon/Volvoxc90.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://home.comcast.net/~toddhaddon/Volvoxc90.htm</A>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A BIG thanks to you and Todd Haddon.<p>...and to the little people that run Swedespeed. <p>...very helpful.<p>:beer
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: (crash)

The instructions we're good. Replacing the pads and rotors is simple but requires a lot of physical effort.<p>I installed cross drilled EBC rotors and a combination of Hawke and Akebono pads and here's a summary:<p>1. The rear slotted and cross drilled EBC rotors barely fit with the Akebono pads with minor initial rubbing which cleared after bed-in of 200 miles.<p>2. The front EBC slotted rotors however only fit with stock pads. The EBC rotor is about 2mm thicker than stock. The Hawke pads are also thicker by 2mm than stock. So the two can't be used together. Either use the stock rotors with Hawke pads or put the EBC rotors with pads that are close to stock pad thickness. At the moment, I have to use the stock rotors with the Hawke pads. Will put the EBC rotors when I find the matching ceramic pads.<p>3. In the instructions, Todd mentions the extreme required torque to loosen the 18mm bolts on the front calipers.. ...for a perspective on this, I had to use a 4 foot pipe over rachet handle to loosen them.<p>4. The only thing I would add to the instructions is to not forget to release the parking brake. There's a reason why this is in the comments.<p>5. The brake job is easy, it probably took longer for me to raise the car, take out the tires, and put the tires and lower the car, etc. than to replace the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
additional update: due to the thicker pads, the brake fluid reservior seems to be extra full and when hot<br>(ie heavy traffic), and forces some of the fluid back into the calipers and cause brakes to drag. simple solution is to reduce brake fluid. <p>Mark the original fluid level when cold and when all 4 pads are replaced, take some of the fluid out until it's back to the originl fluid level.
 

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Re: (crash)

Holy crap, the XC90 Caliper is HUGE! <p>Very nice write up in that link, BTW. I can't believe how much harder it is to change the pads in the '90 than in the R. Wow! I'll have to print this for when I get the V8 '90!<p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (VegasXC)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>VegasXC</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there have been a few threads on this, I found this site to be EXTREMELY helpful!<p><A HREF="http://home.comcast.net/~toddhaddon/Volvoxc90.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://home.comcast.net/~toddhaddon/Volvoxc90.htm</A></TD></TR></TABLE><p>More kudos to Todd <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emcocktl.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>I did the front pads on labor day and now it's time for the rears. I had a hard time getting that darn retaining spring back in, anyone with any tricks on that?<p>FYI the rears are side specific for the pad that goes on the piston side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (crash)

Here's an update on a couple of things:<br>1. the rotors were not cross drilled they were dimpled.<br>2. The fitment of the rotors issue is because the rotors I ordered were incorrect. The T6 has 2 rotor sizes: a 13.2" and 12.6". The one I needed was the 12.6" one and the one I was trying to put in was the 13.2" <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> (where's the propeller hat emoticon). Apparently, volvo transitioned to the 13.2" rotor somewhere in 2004 and our T6 had 2.5T brake components on it.<br>3. Finally got the correct parts installed and everything is working fine. The brakes have an stronger bite. During bed-in, I got a little aggressive and got the brakes to sizzle and noticed a significant amount of brake fade. I'll test it again after a few hundred miles of bed-in. <br>4. On the hawke pads for the front brakes, there was little button on the back of the pads that I had to grind away because the pads wouldn't fit(no buttons on the stock pads). I would probably go with Akebono's on the next set.<p><br><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>crash</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The instructions we're good. Replacing the pads and rotors is simple but requires a lot of physical effort.<p>I installed cross drilled EBC rotors and a combination of Hawke and Akebono pads and here's a summary:<p>1. The rear slotted and cross drilled EBC rotors barely fit with the Akebono pads with minor initial rubbing which cleared after bed-in of 200 miles.<p>2. The front EBC slotted rotors however only fit with stock pads. The EBC rotor is about 2mm thicker than stock. The Hawke pads are also thicker by 2mm than stock. So the two can't be used together. Either use the stock rotors with Hawke pads or put the EBC rotors with pads that are close to stock pad thickness. At the moment, I have to use the stock rotors with the Hawke pads. Will put the EBC rotors when I find the matching ceramic pads.<p>3. In the instructions, Todd mentions the extreme required torque to loosen the 18mm bolts on the front calipers.. ...for a perspective on this, I had to use a 4 foot pipe over rachet handle to loosen them.<p>4. The only thing I would add to the instructions is to not forget to release the parking brake. There's a reason why this is in the comments.<p>5. The brake job is easy, it probably took longer for me to raise the car, take out the tires, and put the tires and lower the car, etc. than to replace the brakes. </TD></TR></TABLE><p><br><i>Modified by crash at 9:32 PM 10-16-2006</i><BR><BR>
<i>Modified by crash at 2:28 AM 10-17-2006</i>
 

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Re: (crash)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>crash</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5. The brake job is easy, it probably took longer for me to raise the car, take out the tires, and put the tires and lower the car, etc. than to replace the brakes. </TD></TR></TABLE><p><Laugh> Which is why I'll change out the pads when I put the snow tires on this winter. I have Akebono's for all four corners.<p>jack
 

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When compressing the rear caliper pistons, is it necessary to rotate and compress the piston at the same time? I know that this is necessary on many rear disk vehicles due to the parking brake mechanism.
 

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Re: (crash)

The brake size is abit confusing. I thought that one of the benefits of ordering the larger wheels on my 2005 2.5T (18" Atlantis) was that I'd also be getting the larger brakes. Apprantly not and that pisses me off <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/mad.gif" BORDER="0"> I just talked to two different Volvo dealers parts guys and they confirmed that the bigger brakes never happened for any XC90 and have not shown up until the V8 model and now on some 2007's (apparantly there was a memo that went to all dealers confirming the big brakes would not hit the US/NA market until further notice).<br>I should have known better than to listen to sales people, but in their defence they probably hadn't seen the memo from Volvo until much later on.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>crash</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>Here's an update on a couple of things:<br>1. the rotors were not cross drilled they were dimpled.<br>2. The fitment of the rotors issue is because the rotors I ordered were incorrect. The T6 has 2 rotor sizes: a 13.2" and 12.6". The one I needed was the 12.6" one and the one I was trying to put in was the 13.2" (where's the propeller hat emoticon). Apparently, volvo transitioned to the 13.2" rotor somewhere in 2004 and our T6 had 2.5T brake components on it.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Hi Crash, I'm not sure where you got the rotor measurements from by I just measured mine and they are 13 1/4" inches (I measure carefully through the rim so I could be off but not by much). I've got my 17" winter Aquarius rims on now and there's definately room to install a 16" rim which also contrary to what the dealer told me when I 'had' to by the more expensive 17" alloys for the winter <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> ...well I do like the look so I won't really bang my head about this part.<p>I don't know how much bigger the actual bigger brake rotors but apprantly they are big enough to require a minimum wheel size of 17".<p>By the way, the dealer and VADIS refer to the brakes as ' 16" brakes ' or ' 17" brakes ' (refering to minimum wheel size). So the ultimate way to check what you have is to look at the sticker on the gas filler door on your XC90. If it shows a 16" wheel size you have the 16" brakes (smaller ones). If the smallest size listed is a 17" wheel, you have the 17" brakes (bigger ones).<p>Prior to 2007 or to the V8 it seems the bigger brake were only available in the European market. So maybe if you got an OSD you might be lucky and have the bigger brakes in NA.<p>Lastly, and as a final confirmation of the brake size on my XC90 (and any one that lists a 16" wheel size) the brake pad part# is 274285, I know this for a fact because that part# was installed for me last year (the pads now have a new part#: 30793265). Vadis shows the rotors for the 16" brakes as 30636074 (replaced with a new number of: 30736406).<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>VegasXC</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>there have been a few threads on this, I found this site to be EXTREMELY helpful!<br><A HREF="http://home.comcast.net/~toddhaddon/Volvoxc90.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://home.comcast.net/~toddhaddon/Volvoxc90.htm</A><br></TD></TR></TABLE><br> <br>What a great resourse! Amazing, really amazing. I will now difinately takle the job myself. Right after I order front pads and rotors, probably stock rotors and EBC greenstuff pads or Porterfield R4-S pads.<p>Thanks SS members!<p>I must say that regardless of small brakes or big brakes, my XC90 has amazing stopping power, cudos to Volvo in that respect.<p>LTA<br>ps. Crash - how are you finding the EBC dimpled/sloted rotors? Are they worth it (almost double the price vs. stock one, no?)<p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
EBC has the sizes on their site. All I know is that they match the stock ones perfectly.<p>As for performance improvement, I would say yes I like them. Initial bite is spot on. I had the Hawke pads on the stock rotors and performance was ..like stock, no major difference( although, I think I noticed a little more wear on the stock rotors). <p>With the dimpled and slotted rotors, there is a stronger initial bite that is very predictable. The brake dust issue is also back because of the slots shaving a little off the pads every time I press on the brakes but I think that may be part of the point; no glazing and an even pad surface for more grip, ...every time.<p>As for brake fade on hot weather, I came close to simulating it by getting the brakes steaming(as in smokin and nasty smell), and I got what I was looking for by stop and starting to 40mph and stop for a minutes; and I got brake fade. I think I went a little too far though.<p>...maybe now I can get a BSR stage 1 ;-)<br>
 

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Re: (crash)

I ended up getting EBC green stuff pads and stock volvo rotors <B>from EST, thank you Frank </B> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> The price and timing met my needs and I completed the job in my garage in about 3 hours. Like others have said it's easy with Todd's guide and takes more time just to get all your tools ready and to jack up each side.<p>I spent most of the time on the 1st side, following step by step, checking and re-checking my work. On the 2nd side I flew through in what seemed like less than 30 minutes.<p>As for those 18mm bolts, yeah, I could not get them loose with my long 1/2" socket wrench but with about 45 seconds of heat from my plumbing torch I was able to get them out. TIP: Once you get them out and while they are still warm heat them more right on the thread lock glue and then use a wire brush to clean out the threads, makes cleaning the threads fast and easy.<p>The only thing I messed up was sheering off the small hex screw that holds the rotor to the hub (p/n 955270). It's funny because I was teaching my 6 year-old son how to use a torque wrench (and its importance) and of course I over torqued that little screw and snapped it clean off <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/rolleyes.gif" BORDER="0"> He said "Dad, it could be worse you could have broken a more important part" (it's amazing what comes out of his mouth sometimes!)<p>I followed EBC bedding procedure of 5 gradual stops from 40mph at 1 min cool-down intervals. Afterwich they felt just fine but I will continue to go easy on them for a couple hundred Km's as the EBC insert suggests. The next day I started to hear a very slight and very high-pitched sound just before reaching a full stops so I repeated the bedding procedure and the sound went away and the bite is feeling better and better.<p>Break dusts seems less but after full bedding there should be even lest dust, time will tell.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>crash</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EBC has the sizes on their site. All I know is that they match the stock ones perfectly.<br></TD></TR></TABLE><br>Frank at EST saw two different part numbers for the EBC pads and after digger deeper he found out they are both the exact same pad. I should note that Frank ordered both sets for me so that I would not get caught in the middle of my brake job with the wrong ones, now that's going the extra mile for a customer <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p><br>LTA
 

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Re: (LTA)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>LTA</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>As for those 18mm bolts, yeah, I could not get them loose with my long 1/2" socket wrench but with about 45 seconds of heat from my plumbing torch I was able to get them out. </TD></TR></TABLE><p><br>Why didnt ya just use the air tools to pop it out?
 

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Re: (calridng)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>calridng</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p><br>Why didnt ya just use the air tools to pop it out?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Maybe I didn't mention I did this job in my HOME garage. I thought obout air tools but that's one set of tools I have yet to invest in. I do have an electric impact gun but it's only good for around 110Nm. Even if I had heavy duty air tools I still think a torch and heavy socket wrench is easy and safe.<p>LTA<br>
 

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Re: any tips on do-it-yourself brake maintenance? (crash)

Tom's guide seems to be nolonger accessible can anyone provide a copy or link?<br>
 

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Re: any tips on do-it-yourself brake maintenance? (myxc90)

I was pretty excited to find this thread, but I couldn't get the link to work either. Any help?
 

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Re: any tips on do-it-yourself brake maintenance? (Edisto3)

Here is the link I use:<p><A HREF="http://members.cox.net/toddhaddon/VolvoXc90.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://members.cox.net/toddhaddon/VolvoXc90.htm</A><p>Works for me a couple of minutes ago.<p>tom
 

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Re: (LTA)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>LTA</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Maybe I didn't mention I did this job in my HOME garage. I thought obout air tools but that's one set of tools I have yet to invest in. I do have an electric impact gun but it's only good for around 110Nm. Even if I had heavy duty air tools I still think a torch and heavy socket wrench is easy and safe.<p>LTA</TD></TR></TABLE><p>First thing I purchased was the air tools, compressor is always handy. Many people dont work on<br>as many things and have the need.
 

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Re: any tips on do-it-yourself brake maintenance? (bigtomhammer)

Thanks for the link<p>Bought EBC slotted and drilled rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, I'll post again after they get installed. They were out of the EBC red stuff ceramic pads I wanted.
 
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