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Have these kits for both Volvos. Does not work really well on a white one, but mine is perfect. 2 or 3 color-matched paints I've got from Ebay, even more expensive, were worse: color is mismatched, the paint itself separates too quickly, dries out in a bottle faster than it should.
 

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I bought that kit for my car (red) a few summers ago to fix up some paint lost during a small fender-bender, and to over up a couple of chips that I found. Just so you know, the instructions make very little sense, and I wasn't able to find much else available online, except for other people who were as confused as I was. I ended up skipping the clear coat step as I couldn't figure out exactly how to apply it, but that wasn't a big deal as the spots were pretty discreet. I hope the process goes excellently for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #986 ·
Not sure if I've done this comparison on here, so here it is.

For those of you who have been following along you are already familiar with the XC90 lower front end suspension that I installed along with spindles and hubs. The XC90 spindles increases strut mount point by 12mm which allows for more clearance between the tire and spring perch and for a small lift.

Stock with 235/65R17 Kumho AT51


XC90 Spindle with 235/65R17 Kumho AT51


Now what has me surprised is how much larger the current tire is compared to old set.

XC90 Spindle with 235/65R17 Toyo OC ATII


For the same nominal size these are very large. I would not be able to fit these without the spindles. I wonder, is there normally this much variation with tire sizes? Of the two other I've tested, a GY RSA and GY Wrangler, they were similar to the Kumhos. I've not measured the diameter of the Toyos yet, but they are specified at 29.1"
 

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Discussion Starter · #987 · (Edited)
Got the time to work on the XC today. Was able to replace the spark plugs, replace the upper engine harness for the coil packs/VVT, and performed a compression test for good measure (not necessary, but something I like to do with every plug change).



The engine harness was a breeze to install and fits perfectly. Thanks goes to VTL for the link.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/233575347998




The harness comes with very clear instructions on how to install and color coding, it also comes with all the coil pack grounds spliced together so in all it's 10 wires to splice. I used pink shrink wrap butt connectors and performed the slices down in the main harness section. The wire loom on the main harness is large enough to accommodate all the connectors if you stagger them properly.

Point of no return!




I'm glad I was able to perform this job, the old harness is cooked and just waiting to cause an issue. I've already repaired sections of it with miles of tape...



My only issue with the harness is the coil pack connectors are not the easiest to remove. More of a minor annoyance, but the connector needs to be pushed in before releasing the clips. Anyways, the peace of mind is well worth it, and in all with the rest of the work it only took 3hs and 2 beers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #991 ·
Been noticing some strange AFRs at cruise and idle with a pending code P2196 - O2 sensor stuck rich. AFRs on load are fine. LTFT shows -3.4% and STFT stopped being metered. I'm able to reset the ECU and it starts fueling correctly and STFT shows, but after a few drive cycles it sets again. Is this the O2 or should I be looking elsewhere? I've yet to scan with VIDA or performed any other troubleshooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #992 ·
P2196 -- ECM-24BB -- Front heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 -- Signal missing

Looks like I'll get VIDA out sometime to troubleshoot further. Strange how it seems too work fine after a reset. I really don't want to replace the O2 sensor right now. It's not fun accessing the O2 connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #996 ·
ECM-24BB

Condition
- The ECM compares the adaptation values of the front and rear O2 sensors. The code is stored when the values deviate by more than 3%.

Substitute value:
- LTFT is switched off
- catalytic converter diagnostics are disabled.

Possible source:
- Exhaust Leak
- O2 sensors reading rich
- Poor or damaged contacts
- Damaged sensor

So the code can be caused by either the front or rear sensor. Since I'm noticing issues with fueling I think it's safe to assume its the front O2, though the rear infrequently throws a code if it's run hard. Exhaust systems is tight as far as I can hear, recently fixed a small leak. Maybe a tune to delete the rear O2 will stop the code so I can assess the front O2? Been meaning to delete the rear O2, but the exhaust is catted and I intend to keep it that way.

Thinking about catalytic converters, what's the life expectancy of 'high flow' cats? Mine has been in service for 7yrs and ~80k mi and still seems to be operating properly even though it's been fed a hot supper. Plenty of time in boost towing means lots of fuel has been burned through it. Probably should be deleted, but I don't like heavy fuel smells on the daily unless it's a 2-stroke. Anyways, it's always been slow to warm up but gets working eventually. I think it's a Magnaflow 54959, but if I were to replace it is there anything that's better? Magnaflow 448009 (I've seen this PN tossed around the forum)? I understand a cat isn't the most enthusiastic topic of discussion...
 

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LTFT has 3 load ranges, you can read all of them in VIDA.

O2 sensors are generally good for about 100-150k km. If you run on factory sensors, they are dead or at least old and lazy to react.
 

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Discussion Starter · #998 ·
LTFT has 3 load ranges, you can read all of them in VIDA.

O2 sensors are generally good for about 100-150k km. If you run on factory sensors, they are dead or at least old and lazy to react.
Right. I should probably log these, but I'm hardly driving it these days...
 

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I know I have an exhaust leak. I can hear it. As far as cat longevity, I’m on 470000km with original exhaust and previous owner towed lots of stuff from Bolton to Perry Sound (this is for locals to Antherzol)

I don’t think your cat is toast but ...


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