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Discussion Starter · #502 ·
Question, in didn't pull out the whole length of the two wire connector going to the amp, I just cut the longest length I could with the intention of running my own wire (too much work, not enough time to get it out, and the driver's door wouldn't open). Is this two wire connector already pre-wired in the vehicle for the amp? If not, anyone know where the other end terminates.

Thanks!

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Question, in didn't pull out the whole length of the two wire connector going to the amp, I just cut the longest length I could with the intention of running my own wire (too much work, not enough time to get it out, and the driver's door wouldn't open). Is this two wire connector already pre-wired in the vehicle for the amp? If not, anyone know where the other end terminates.

Thanks!

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It should be pre-wired. Even my NA had it.
 

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I've read that if the the HU came from the same MY than it's possibly a direct swap... We'll see. If it doesn't work, I still got an amp and I'll sell the HU

I may go back and pick the speakers out of it next time I'm around, I really just ran out of time to mess around with it.
Could be. I'll be going there tomorrow. Did you happen to see if the headlight were HID. My XC started winking randomly at people .

Now that I know I'll remove all the speakers and. Sell them to you for $1,000,000.00 !



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Discussion Starter · #509 · (Edited)
Could be. I'll be going there tomorrow. Did you happen to see if the headlight were HID. My XC started winking randomly at people .

Now that I know I'll remove all the speakers and. Sell them to you for $1,000,000.00 !



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Hahaha! They are halogen and only one.

Ahhh you bastard! Good luck opening the drivers door! Most of the engine bits are stripped and the interior is a mess.

I may be in the Hammer tomorrow and may go back to check it out. What time are you going? Shoot me a PM.
 

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Hahaha! They are halogen and only one.

Ahhh you bastard! Good luck opening the drivers door! Most of the engine bits are stripped and the interior is a mess.

I may be in the Hammer tomorrow and may go back to check it out. What time are you going? Shoot me a PM.
Most likely first thing am. I'm on my own in the am.

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Discussion Starter · #511 · (Edited)
Well, here's a reason why there's a heated PCV system...



Mmm...oil/ice slushy in the hoses going to my external catch can. Good thing I caught it when I did and it didn't blow a seal. I have the catch can placed behind the driver's side headlight, I'll have to relocate it somewhere closer to the engine to keep it from freezing up again.

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Discussion Starter · #512 · (Edited)
An annoying front end knock had developed some time around September that, after some minor testing, I assumed was the endlinks as this XC has already eaten 3 sets of them since installing the IPD sway bars (I'm sure my driving habbits have a lot to do with that...). Anyway, ordered a new set of endlinks, this time using billr99's recommendation of purchasing front endlinks for a 2000 Concorde as they have the same dimensions. Below is a pic comparing the MOOG K80501 vs Mevotech MK7342



Both have grease zerks, both have wrench flats, the boots are a bit different (seems like the Mevotech has bigger joints?), but one major difference is the threads on the ball joints. The MOOG had a smaller and larger (18mm & 15mm nut) thread vs Mevotech are both the same (18mm). With the MOOGs I had the smaller thread installed at the bar (lower), which was quite a bit smaller than the ID of the bar mount. Over time this became loose and cause a bit of clunking which eventually wallered out the hole a bit.

So today I swapped in the Mevotechs after pumping them full if moly and I'm much happier with how they fit within the mount, they look great and the joints feel like quality. Took it out for a test drive and... the clunking is still there, just not as violent. So, I get it back up, checked out the bar and noticed that the bushings are also shot... I replace them less than a year ago for **** sakes and made sure they were greased... IPD bushings. I jammed a shim under both bushings, greased them, and that has stopped the clunking for now. I have another set of bushings on order from MOOG for 25mm bars, but that will have to wait for a spring install.

Edit:
Mevotech endlinks were junk not to long after install. Purchased another set sized for the 2000 Concorde but MOOG Problem Solvers and they have been working well.

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I used the Mevotech Supreme end links on my old car. Very happy with them. Much beefier than the OEM (and greaseable).
 

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Discussion Starter · #514 · (Edited)
Kids can be so hard on a car sometimes...



But hey, that's the price I pay for trying to entertain two preschoolers while traveling 1400km in 2 days. She cleans up nicely.

]


Much Better!

While cleaning it up I tripped a passenger air bag fault by accidentally pulling out the connector under the seat. Was able to reset the codes with VIDA, but I noticed that there are two hard faults that remain for the AUM.



I have swapped in a HU-850 and amp from a 2005 XC. As far as I can tell everything works as it should. My thoughts, I'm running the system using the original 4x 4ohm 25w door speakers, the system is designed for 4x 8ohm 75w speakers. Thinking this could be throwing up a fault code. While I'm not worried about it, and I will eventually swap in the door speakers. I'm open to thoughts or ideas on these codes.

Also, getting a whine on cold starts or warm starts after sitting for 30mins. Haven't had the time to dig into this as it is gross outside, but it sounds like it coming from under the vehicle somewhere around the passengers' side fog light/oil filter/accessory belt area. I can't really hear it from inside the engine bay and the sound doesn't change with RPM or with turning the wheel. The noise doesn't start immediately, kind of like ~30secs after start then goes away once fully warm. Sometimes the radiator fan will come on when cold. I'm leaning towards something with the AC system.

 

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Also, getting a whine on cold starts or warm starts after sitting for 30mins. Haven't had the time to dig into this as it is gross outside, but it sounds like it coming from under the vehicle somewhere around the passengers' side fog light/oil filter/accessory belt area. I can't really hear it from inside the engine bay and the sound doesn't change with RPM or with turning the wheel. The noise doesn't start immediately, kind of like ~30secs after start then goes away once fully warm. Sometimes the radiator fan will come on when cold. I'm leaning towards something with the AC system.

Yeah, why couldn't it be easy and just be the PS pump? And why can't the AC compressor just come out the bottom? We should have a TV show on "P2 Mysteries"

For your sake, I hope it's something simple and not the compressor. It's like digging for buried treasure. I did it in the wagon, replaced the dead one with a Nissens unit. And had the misfortune of them shipping the wrong O-rings with it. Ugh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #519 · (Edited)
Think I figured out that noise, it's coming from the oil filter housing bypass valve. So with 7.8k mi on the fill I changed the oil tonight.. A bit late I know . First cold start on the fresh fill and the noise is completely gone. Previous fill was Valvoline Synpower 5w40 with a Valvoline VO66 filter done at The Great Canadian Oil Change in Regina SK during the summer. Currently using a mix of 5L Castrol Edge 5w40 and the rest Motomaster Formula 1 5w40 (it's what I have on hand) with a Mahle filter.



Not to sure what to think about the filter being clogged up like that, like 7.8k mi is outside of what I normally change the oil, thought I could stretch it because of Valvoline Synpower, but it seems like the filter wasn't up to the task. Just to note, 3k mi of that previous fill would have been towing a trailer, the rest would have been city life and other adventures. I don't think that there is anything wrong with the engine, but for my usage I should definitely be changing the oil more often and using a better filter than the Valvoline VO66.
 
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