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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey Guys,

Not much of an introduction, but I'm Anthony and this is my XC70. Purchased in December 2012 with only 61k mi, now at October 2019 it's just over 145k mi and still going strong. Just pretty much doing my own thing and having fun with it as I go along. I've recently updated this thread with links, trips, and repairs, but feel free to message me with any questions.

Enjoy!

Engine/Transmission:
- Hilton Tuning
- TD04HL-16T (Modified): 11 blade GTX compressor wheel, 11 blade turbine, 7cm^2 turbine housing, 0.3 BAR Wastegate Actuator.
- RaceS60R 3" down pipe w/catalysts
- Eurosport Tuning Touring Exhaust
- Do88 Intercooler
- AEM Progressive WMI System
- Volvo R model airbox w/MAF
- IPD Turbo Inlet Hose
- IPD Charge Air Pipe
- IPD Throttle Inlet Tube
- GFB Diverter Valve
- Snabb Throttle Body and Manifold Spacer
- Hayden Transmission Cooler w/ thermostat and inline filter
- Oil catch can
- Custom dual gauge mount w/ IPD Boost & Innovate AFR.

Suspension/Drivetrain:
- Bad Swede 2" lift systems
- Custom 19mm rear strut mount spacers
- Custom 16mm front/rear subframe spacers
- XC90 336mm front & 308mm rear brakes
- XC90 Lower Front End Conversion:
XC90 control arms
XC90 spindle/w hub & ball joints
XC90 2.5t front left/right axles
- XC90 17" Neptune Wheels.
- XC90 235/65R17 wheel well modification
- Toyo Open Country AT2
- H&R XC90 25mm wheel spacers (rear axle)
- XC90 V8 Gen3 (2008) Haldex DEM
- IPD XC70 Sway Bars
- IPD Subframe Inserts
- IPD Skid plate

Utility:
- Yakima Load Warrior w/double extension, 4x cross bars, custom flush mount, tire carrier, load stops, quick fists.
- Volvo 2" tow bar
- LED Conversion resistor banks
- H8 Battery Upgrade
- Auxiliary Third Row Seats

Trips/Adventures:

- May/June 2015 Crosscountry Road Trip 10,500km Yellowstone/Cascades/British Columbia
- August 2015 Haliburton Highlands
- May 2016 Catskills Camping
- May 2017 Bald Eagle State Forest/Volvos At Carlisle
- June 2017 Kawartha Highlands
- July 2017 Crosscountry Road Trip 8,800km Minnesota/Saskatchewan/Alberta/British Columbia/Lake Superior
- August 2017 Haliburton Highlands
- August 2017 Kawartha Highlands
- January 2018 Oompah Winter Cabin
- May 2018 Volvos at Carlisle
- June 2018 Rockwood Conservation Area
- June 2018 Halliburton Highlands
- July 2018 Pinery Provincial Park
- July 2018 Crotch Lake
- August 2018 East Coast Road Trip 4,400km Quebec/New Brunswick/Nova Scotia
- October 2018 Guelph Lake Reservoir
- October 2018 Guelph Lake Reservoir
- May 2019 Longpoint Provincial Park
- May 2019 Haliburton Highlands
- June 2019 Rockwood Conservation Area
- August 2019 Crosscountry Road Trip 9600km South Dakota/Wyoming/Montana/British Columbia/Alberta/Lake Superior/Lake Huron

Major Repairs:

01-28-2015 - Steering Rack/Bushings/Spring Seats/IPD Swaybar Install

12-13-2015 - Haldex pump replaced/fluid service
01-20-2016 - Valvebody replaced
04-24-2016 - Angle gear seals/collar sleeve
03-26-2017 - Exhaust manifold gasket/Turbo turbine housing replacement

08-15-2018 - Throttle body failure

01-26-2019 - Bent rear toe arm and wheel

04-02-2020 - Upper Engine Wiring Harness

Other Forum Threads:

@antherzoll Instagram

volvoxc.com thread

Overland Bound Thread
 

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I think this is next on my list with an ARD tune!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Update: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/...T&p=172664&posted=1#post172664

Finally had a chance to get around to installing all the part...well most of the parts. The catback exhaust is back ordered and will have to wait for later, but no biggie. Overall the install wasn't too hard, just took a lot of time and labour as this was my first time getting this deep into my XC.

Here is my process:

- Disconnected the battery.

- Strut Brace: 4x 13mm bolt on the strut towers and one 18mm nut and bolt for the motor mount. There is one clip on the passenger side for a wire harness

- Air Box: Removed all the part being supported to the air box. Disconnected the MAF and the intake pipe. Slide to the left and pull up.

- Intake Air Pipe: Previously installed IPD intake pipe. Disconnect the pipe for the turbo housing. Pull back and turn CW to gain access to the 2 vacuum hoses and the PTC. Disconnect the the electrical connector for the PTC by pushing down on the metal wire on the connector. Disconnect the hose from the PTC and the 2 other hoses on the pipe

- Charge Air Pipe: Previously installed IPD Charge Air Pipe. Disconnect the pipe clamp and fold out of the way

- Turbo Heat Shield: 3x 10mm Bolts. Push the heat shield down into the space beside the downpipe then work it out.

- Front O2 Sensor: Connector is located right under the intake pipe close to the turbo intake. The connector sits on a brace which is mounted with nylon retainers that can be pulled out. The connector has a white tab lock that lifts up to disconnect. Route the wire back to space where the O2 is located.

Turbo/ Downpipe From Top of Car:
- 3x 10mm Downpipe bolt. *Could also work the 2 lower bolts from underneath if access is too tight.
- 2x 13mm Turbo to manifold nuts
- 2x Vacuum lines from the turbo. one on the housing and one on the wastegate *MARK THESE
- 1x 17mm Oil Supply Banjo Bolt from the top of the turbo

- Loosen the coolant reservoir cap and the engine oil cap then lift the car.

- Drain the coolant: Through the lower rad hose, block drain, or the radiator petcock

- Drain the Oil: Not a must, but I was due for a change anyway

- Downpipe Turbo Bottom of Car:
Disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust, two bolts at flange.
Remove the retaining bracket: 4x 13mm Bolts. Bracket retains the heat shield and some wiring.
Disconnect the rear O2 sensor: the connector is located by the retaining bracket. It has a red lock tab the you can wedge a flat head under to disconnect.
Remove the rubber hangers and the pipe will come free.

Now for the fun part. You will become real familiar with your angle gear as it will get in the way of everything you do here.

- Disconnect the Oil/Coolant pipe retaining bracket: Don't remember what size, but it was a tork head, and sits right behind the angle gear. It only hold the two pipes together and nothing else.
- Remove the 2x 17mm coolant Banjo bolts: Fairly east as they are facing straight back.
- Disconnect the oil return line: This one is a bit tricky. Used a 3/8" swivel ratchet connection with T30 tork on the end of a 18" extension. Used one hand to guide the bit, the other to work the wrench. Once the bolts are out, wiggle the other end out of the block and retrieve the O-ring from the block.
- Disconnect the oil supply line: Not sure if you have to, but for the sake of not damaging it I removed it. Near the passenger side of the block facing back there is a 19mm banjo.
- Remove the 2 lower manifold/turbo nuts: 2x 13mm nuts. the one on the passenger side was easier as there was good access. the other is kind of wedged between the angle gear and the transmission. Took me a bit of fussing but I got it out eventually. A 13mm stubby box-end wrench was key to my success.

By now everything is loose and apart. I was able to remove the turbo from the space between the block and the passenger side drive-shaft from under the car. The new turbo fit into this space as well without a hassle. You can also fish it up and through the engine bay, but it's a bit tight.

Pretty much install is the reverse of removal. I didn't use any torque specs, just my gut feeling to reassemble everything. The turbo came with a CBV block-off, the diverter valve I had ordered was a snap to put in with the bosses on the IPD pipes. After the oil and coolant was topped off, I pulled Fuse #11 from the engine compartment fuse box to disable the ignition coils, cranked the engine over a few time, put the fuse back, started it up and let it run for 15min before driving. Nothing has leaked so far and I have had it hot and cold several time. I haven't gone into boost territory yet, but i will post up some data later on once the break-in is done, but what I can say is that I already hear a major difference in the sound of the turbo spooling compared to stock.

Although the hardware kit I received had gaskets and hardware to piece everything back together, it did not include new washers for the 19mm banjo bolt and new manifold to turbo nuts and studs. I had to go to my local dealer to pick up those extra parts and it came out to $40 for 2 manifold studs, 2 manifold nuts and 2 19mm copper washers. You need the manifold bolts as you will most likely not be able to retrieve the ones from your old exhaust housing,

The tough parts of the job for me were:
- Removing the Oil Return line from the turbo
- Removing the lower diver side turbo to manifold nut
- Removing the rear O2 sensor from the old cat
- Reinstalling the Intake pipe to the compressor housing. A little vaseline would help here. I didn't realize it, but the inlet on the new turbo is just a little larger then the old turbo.... Had a good time with that.

During the install I also replaced my front O2 sensor with a new bosch, a new MAF, and new plugs with the HD coils, and replaced my K&N for a OE filter for good measure. The car actually idles a ton better, nice and smooth with very little vibration. Not sure what did it, either it's because my engine is breathing easier, or my sensors were shot, or a combination of both, everything on my engine checked out before the install, and i don't think it's the tune as i was running the stage 2 tune with my previous setup for a week before this install with the same vibration. I'm very happy with this result as I became accustomed to the XC vibrating a bit at idle.

]
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Haven't had much time to play around with my upgrades because of work and family life, until this past weekend, just fell like I should update. I took the XC for a drive up to Barrie (approx. 100km from Toronto) and was able to get a feel of what this vehicle can do. It feels like a completly different car, both low end and top end are greatly improved. I'll take some logs and get some numbers on a bit later when I get the catback on, but I just want to say this upgrade gets my :thumbup:
 

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Such a sweet post/ thanks for the pics. I'm getting excited to do this on my car!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Hello all

So I've been having some fun with Torque Pro and I've been able to get some rough numbers of what gains were made with these upgrades.

I've logged an average of:
Power: 224.3WHP @ 4357‎ rpm
Torque: 254.6Wft/lb @4357 rpm
MAF: 235.3g/s.

If I can work the math backwards.
Power from MAF using: MAF(g/s) / 0.8 =
BHP = 294.1BHP

Using 25% drivetrain loss

224.2WHP @.25 loss = 298.9BHP
254.6Wft/lb @.25 loss = 339.4ft/lb

These are not solid numbers, they can vary, but i feel it's a good enough ballpark to state for now and people like to hear numbers. I'd would like to take the information and graph the HP and Torque, but due to the low update rate of my GPS of 1Hz, the information is a bit scattered so it doesn't make for a good graph, I'll try to get out to the dyno one day for that.

Also, the log files are missing, but i did do a comparison between a K&N panel filter and a Volvo filter and my numbers had shown no difference in MAF reading throughout the RPM range. So wanting my car to be a bit more obnoxious :rolleyes: I installed one of these...

http://www.aemintakes.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=21-2038BF

http://autohifidiszkont.hu/bmw-tuning.hu/aemszuroteszt.pdf

Didn't have time to DIY a heat shield, so I bought the one from EST then purchased a 8" AEM Brute Force dry flow filter. As for sound, it isn't obnoxious at all if you like hearing your turbo. Also i can hear my diverter valve on throttle lift, not too loud, just enough to hear a slight pssst.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So It's been a while since Ive updated this thread so I thought maybe would now would be a good time to give one.

The car was put on a dyno back in September and the numbers were a bit short of my predictions, mostly due to me running in a high ambient :facepalm: quite stupid of me, but when i had booked the appointment the average temps were ~15*C, didn't know a heat wave was coming. Been meaning to do another run, but I've never got around to doing so.




I've also been troubleshooting a intermittent over boost issue ever since getting the upgrades and tune from ARD. Initially found out that the turbo supplied from ARD had a wastegate actuator that is to strong for my setup, was in contact with another owner of a ARD tuned LPT and he stated the same issue. Contacted ARD multiple times, submitted logs, and tried all of the suggested fixes including software to no avail. I'm currently running a weaker wastegate actuator at base setting and it has reduced the occurrence of tripping over boost, but it is not allowing the turbo to create max target boost and spool is slower. Through my e-mails with ARD I found the the customer service was quite the opposite from what I was led to expect from ARD, most of my questions were unanswered, took over 48h to receive responses, and responses were often vague leading me to search for answers elsewhere, maybe I'm not a big fish in ARD's eyes. Even if ARD can solve my issue, which I'm almost confident that they cannot, I've lost interest in dealing with them. The tune does runs great when the overboost issue isn't being tripped so I'm still enjoying my ride, but I'm currently searching for another tuner that will be more engaged and will offer better support, currently looking at JZW or Hilton Tuning.

Anyways

I've posted this here, but will repost.

Upgraded my front rotors from 11" to 12" slotted and they feel great. Rotors are from Stop Tech and the pad are Hawk HPS semi-metallic.

Changed around the back of my XC


Yep a Fake-R :D

And currently waiting to install a set of IPD sway bars :cool


Alright

so i picked up, bushings 11,12(square),13,14, and 15 today and had them installed in a hour and a half( thanks to the XC's high ground clearance, I seriously thought that this would have taken me more time.

In the picture boxes for Part#611 and #613 are over the wrong bushing. In order of bushing they are 12,11,13,14, and 15

The install was quite easy the hardest part was removing the old bushing for #13 and #11, a little fire took care of that.


Ahhhh....roasty

Had to cut out the metal sleeve from the bushing on the strut bar with a file after it was burned out, the small transmission torque mount has no sleeve. The upper engine and the larger transmission torque mount were removed by using a hammer and flat head screw driver.

Once removed, all of the bushings went in quite easily with just hand pressure, no real forcing. I'm not a fan of the yellow brick that now resides on my upper engine mount, but i wasn't going to spend the time or money on a new round poly mount or used old and knock out the old bushing, maybe i can find a paint that would work on it. I haven't taken it for a ride yet, but I did let it idle in D while tightening all the bolts and there is more vibration for sure, sweet sweet vibrations. What i also noticed is that if I rock my car in P then engine has less of a tendency to rock as well, I'd like to see how this extra rigidity feels on the road.

Anyways More pics, cause people like pics :)





I took it out for a drive around town and I'm quite impressed with how the bushings feels. The only added vibration is from idle 650rpm to 800rpm on throttle, this vibration quickly dissipates after 800rpm and feels normal throughout the rest of the rpm range. It's not a major difference, but it's a pleasant one. Shifting between P-R-N-D has better engagement, shifting with the GT feels more solid both with upshifts and downshifts, and when applying throttle it feels more responsive. Can't wait to poly the rest of the bushings.

Update on my experiences with polyurethane engine mounts.

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...Build-Thread&p=2712009&viewfull=1#post2712009
 

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+1 for poly. E a specially those control arm ones.
 

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The control arm ones take that dead spot on the steering wheel away. Such crisp steering response.

Interesting article but a bit too theoretical. Real world experience with my bushings have been 95% positive (sway bar bushing gave out last year).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The control arm ones take that dead spot on the steering wheel away. Such crisp steering response.

Interesting article but a bit too theoretical. Real world experience with my bushings have been 95% positive (sway bar bushing gave out last year).
Thanks, looks like a spring time project.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Hilton Tune Loaded

So I've recently flashed the ECU with a Stage 3 Hilton Tune and all I can say for now is the engine starts :p, haven't had any time to take it out for a run yet and might be some time until I can...
 

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...when i had booked the appointment the average temps were ~15*C, didn't know a heat wave was coming.
Nice car.

But, on what planet is 15C a heat wave? I don't even like to get out of bed when it's only 15C, and I'm not even really happy if it's under 30C :D
 

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So I've recently flashed the ECU with a Stage 3 Hilton Tune and all I can say for now is the engine starts :p, haven't had any time to take it out for a run yet and might be some time until I can...
What does the Hilton Stg3 tune involve?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Requirements:
Down Pipe, Cat-Back Exhaust, Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC), Larger Than Stock (Typically Hybrid) Turbo, Upgraded Injectors, Upgraded MAF
Additional Requirements:
Stock TCV or upgraded Pierburg valve. (Note: A MAC control valve or equivalent is not compatible with this product. If you are using one of these valves, ensure it is replaced with a Pierburg unit prior to tuning.)

Recommended:
Methanol Injection
http://hiltontuning.com/product/stage-3-tune/

My current setup consists of:
TD04HL-16t w/7cm^2 ex. housing‎, 11 blade compressor & turbine wheels
3" Downpipe w/high flow race cat.
EST Catback
Upgraded stock mount intercooler
Blue Injectors
IPD full line of intake and charge air piping
Manifold & Throttle body spacers
6"x8" Dry flow cone filter.

I haven't started data logging yet, so I may need more parts, but my current set up has most of the requirements except for the FMIC, mine is a upgraded stock mount intercooler. If I have problems with IATs (which I haven't so far), then I may sell this unit and go for the FMIC.

Also my "larger then stock" turbo isn't that much larger, it is a TD04HL-16T, there are other who have larger turbos on similar builds. If I want more some day I'll go for the 19T, or even 20T conversion. Gotta leave some room for upgrades :)
 
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