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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
F--- my life...

I seriously am starting to think I might have more problems on a regular basis with my car than anyone here... I hope for your sakes that its just me and not everyone.

Anyway, a couple days ago, my car started throwing a CEL. Read codes, got P0026, P0027. Intake and exhaust valve control solenoids were the descriptions for those. Thought it was kinda weird, the car ran fine, so I cleared them.

CEL came back the next day, P0016 and P0017: Crank/Camshaft pos sensor A and B. Car still ran fine and I had a big trip planned for today so I figured I'd take it in on Monday.

As I came to leave this morning, drove for about 20 minutes then car lost all boost. I read out the codes again and cleared them hoping it would come out of limp mode. Restarted car. No help, in fact it sounded like the car got worse, the engine sounded rougher, and still no boost, runs like crap. Limped it home, shut it down, and drove the Benz instead.

Any thoughts on what could be causing this?
 

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Re: AnotheR new pRoblem... FML (YK-GTR)

I am sorry to hear about your troubles
I wish I had an answer for you, but I don't. Hopefully you can work through this, and everything else that R has thrown at you, and somehow enjoy it!
 

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Re: AnotheR new pRoblem... FML (YK-GTR)

Sounds like a loss of oil pressure maybe. That will give the CVVT codes you had.

Of course its quite possible you lost the timing belt tensioner and the belt jumped. thats kinda what the CMP and CKP codes would indicate. Those codes indicate the cam and crank are way out of spec by more than 7.5 degress each. What usually happens is the tensioner bearing kinda poops out all the ball bearings and the belt jumps. Best case is a new tensioner and Tbelt can be installed and you didn't hit any valves. Worst case is you will need a head job with either all new intake or all new exhaust vales or both! If the engine is still running but sounds like a diesel DO NOT START IT BACK UP!! Get it towed to your shop or dealer and tell them to check the T-belt tensioner bearing and not to start the car. I hope the best for you.

Oof, just saw you just had a T belt. I would bet money on something with that repair may have gone array.

Did they replace the tensioner with the t belt? and the idler pulley?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: AnotheR new pRoblem... FML (Oceans60R)

Thanks for the quick replies, and wishes.

Yeah the t-belt was done a few months ago, and they replaced the pulley and tensioner even though the old ones looked decent. It was done recently, as in like maybe 25,000 kms ago or so... so 4 or 5 months recent, not like, last week.

However your theory hits a valid point for me because i think we had a small oil leak in there and if that caused the belt to jump or slip off, there is the problem... I might pull the cover and take a gander at it in the morning, thanks for the suggestion.
 

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Re: AnotheR new pRoblem... FML (S80-T6_Toronto)

I am an absolute noob with this car, but I knew my Mazda MX-6 like a fine lady friend. I had similar codes and it was an EGR sensor. Not even sure if our cars have that.... but maybe it will help? (several
's in, gimme a break)
 

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Re: AnotheR new pRoblem... FML (YK-GTR)

Quote, originally posted by YK-GTR »


CEL came back the next day, P0016 and P0017: Crank/Camshaft pos sensor A and B. Car still ran fine and I had a big trip planned for today so I figured I'd take it in on Monday.

Any thoughts on what could be causing this?

Your cam gears are obviously misaligned, thus the code, rougher engine noise and no boooooost. Go back to the shop and let them have it! Re-doing the timing belt for free is the least they should do!
 

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Re: AnotheR new pRoblem... FML (S80-T6_Toronto)

Quote, originally posted by S80-T6_Toronto »
i had similar sympotms on my S80.............check out the ETM, throttle body.

'99 S80 has a totally different ETM. Mainly problems with those ETM's were internal potentiometers. There were two and one would always read some wacked out numbers causing major surging and hesitation. They also were prone to sticking from the throttle being very dirty w/carbon buildup. There was a software update and recall on these from '99-01 and some '02. But this was a hit or miss, we still replaced MANY under warranty.

The newer throttle body that the '03 and up have, such as the R has, is much less prone to fail. I do recommend cleaning the throttle every 30K or so as they can have some issues with carbon buildup but the symptoms are usually much less pronounced.

I seriously think something has gone wrong in the timing belt area. I wish the best. As long as valves didn't hit the pistons, consider yourself lucky and complain to your service manager. If it was a pulley or belt that failed, it should be under 12/12 parts warranty. If the belt failed because of being oil soaked though, you may be out of luck on that end.

Don't forget to check the oil level too. But if it was sounding anything like a diesel engine or clicking even if the oil is low, i wouldn't start it again until its verified the timing belt hasn't jumped or a pulley hasn't failed http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: AnotheR new pRoblem... FML (YK-GTR)

Let me chime in with OCEANS60R, DON'T TRY TO START OR EVEN CRANK OVER THE ENGINE! It could get real expensive in milliseconds!

If there was an oil leak found with the cam cover removed, was it not repaired? It makes no sense to replace the belt if there is a known oil leak. There was some discussion here in the past about an R specific timing belt tensioner, which as I recall never was really resolved, but you may want to check into part numbers used.

Sounds pretty likely that something has gone astray in the valve train, and until you prove otherwise, I would not try to start it! They are called "interference" engines for a reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: AnotheR new pRoblem... FML (rogersampson)

Thank you all for your responses. It did sound a little diesel-ish on the drive home, so I will refrain from starting it up again, and just have it towed into the shop.

The t-belt was recent, but not too fresh, its been a few months, so the leak wa not evident at the time, but we noticed a leak that popped up more recently, and i think my mechanic mentioned that it was likely the cam or crank seal or something to that effect (from what I remember).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: (m3nt0s)

Quote, originally posted by m3nt0s »
What's the mileage like on your R? How long have you had it? If you were to trade/sell it, would it be financially feasible to get into something new?

It may be that time to pay for some peace of mind...

I was car shopping the day before this happened, but since my car has 230,000kms on it, I keep getting crappy offers for trade-ins on it. Its going to be tough to upgrade but might certainly be necessary.

If the valves are bent, i might be able to get a rebuild or engine transplant paid for by my aftermarket warranty company, so that might hold it over for a while.
 

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Re: (YK-GTR)

Quote, originally posted by YK-GTR »


I was car shopping the day before this happened, but since my car has 230,000kms on it, I keep getting crappy offers for trade-ins on it. Its going to be tough to upgrade but might certainly be necessary.

If the valves are bent, i might be able to get a rebuild or engine transplant paid for by my aftermarket warranty company, so that might hold it over for a while.

Ouch, that's a lot of miles! One of the highest mileage R's found here. I never suspected that the late model R's were built for the super high mileage for which Volvo is known, perhaps this is a sign of things to come for the rest of us.
 

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Re: (YK-GTR)

If it still ran, then I would say the valves did not hit. Even the slightest hit will bend them and the engine will not have enough compression to run. I've seen a tech replace a t-belt and while doing so he rotated the crank for some reason. He got all upset and just put it where he thought it was ??? Anyway while trying to crank the engine, the pistons hit the valves and off the head had to come. You could barely see where the pistons kissed the valves and not appeared bent to the eye but there was no compression before the head was taken off. As soon as one of the intake valves was taken out, the bend was easily seen by rolling the valve on a table.

The large price of a head job is the cost of the valves. IIRC about $65 ea X 20, plus the machine shop work, usually 3-500 depends on where you live. Then the labor for the tech, probably 12-14hrs maybe more depending on whatever else may be done. I'd say total $2800-3000 total. Thats IF its the head and if all valves hit. Depending on if you can get a used head for a good price and finding someone who will replace it, you might save a large sum. Dealers generally won't install used parts. Depends on if they are hurting real bad.

I'm crossing my fingers for you that its only the belt jumping a few teeth and not hitting any valves. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

Keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: (m3nt0s)

Yeah, it has its good days i suppose, but its been super crappy since like 180,000 kms. FWIW, theres another R exactly like mine here in town and the guy has about the same mileage, him and I drive pretty much the same amount each month and we end up getting our services done at the same time so I always bump into him.. I don't think he's had as many issues as I have.

Quote, originally posted by m3nt0s »


Ouch, that's a lot of miles! One of the highest mileage R's found here. I never suspected that the late model R's were built for the super high mileage for which Volvo is known, perhaps this is a sign of things to come for the rest of us.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: (Oceans60R)

Quote, originally posted by Oceans60R »
If it still ran, then I would say the valves did not hit. Even the slightest hit will bend them and the engine will not have enough compression to run. I've seen a tech replace a t-belt and while doing so he rotated the crank for some reason. He got all upset and just put it where he thought it was ??? Anyway while trying to crank the engine, the pistons hit the valves and off the head had to come. You could barely see where the pistons kissed the valves and not appeared bent to the eye but there was no compression before the head was taken off. As soon as one of the intake valves was taken out, the bend was easily seen by rolling the valve on a table.

The large price of a head job is the cost of the valves. IIRC about $65 ea X 20, plus the machine shop work, usually 3-500 depends on where you live. Then the labor for the tech, probably 12-14hrs maybe more depending on whatever else may be done. I'd say total $2800-3000 total. Thats IF its the head and if all valves hit. Depending on if you can get a used head for a good price and finding someone who will replace it, you might save a large sum. Dealers generally won't install used parts. Depends on if they are hurting real bad.

I'm crossing my fingers for you that its only the belt jumping a few teeth and not hitting any valves. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

Keep us updated.

Going to have it towed in later today so that my tech can look at it tomorrow when he has a chance, and let me know... I will definitely keep you posted on the status/outcome.
 

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What shop in KW are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: (GuelphVolvo)

Scott Cunningham Volvo Specialist.

I also occasionally use the dealer, BK Volvo, and I used to go to B&L with my Benz sometimes, but Scott has the most experience for the best prices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: (YK-GTR)

Update: Scott's shop has been busy lately so it's been taking him a while to get around to my car. He should be taking it apart by now, so I should know what's wrong soon. He remarked that it might be the exhaust VVT unit was stuck, might need replacement. Do those things fail?
 
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