Re: AnotheR new pRoblem... FML (YK-GTR)
PS: Car has fairly recent timing belt, fresh oil (from a couple weeks ago) etc.
PS: Car has fairly recent timing belt, fresh oil (from a couple weeks ago) etc.
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Re: AnotheR new pRoblem... FML (YK-GTR)
I am sorry to hear about your troubles
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I wish I had an answer for you, but I don't. Hopefully you can work through this, and everything else that R has thrown at you, and somehow enjoy it!
I am sorry to hear about your troubles
Re: AnotheR new pRoblem... FML (S80-T6_Toronto)
I am an absolute noob with this car, but I knew my Mazda MX-6 like a fine lady friend. I had similar codes and it was an EGR sensor. Not even sure if our cars have that.... but maybe it will help? (several
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's in, gimme a break)
I am an absolute noob with this car, but I knew my Mazda MX-6 like a fine lady friend. I had similar codes and it was an EGR sensor. Not even sure if our cars have that.... but maybe it will help? (several
What's the mileage like on your R? How long have you had it? If you were to trade/sell it, would it be financially feasible to get into something new?
It may be that time to pay for some peace of mind...
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It may be that time to pay for some peace of mind...
Re: AnotheR new pRoblem... FML (S80-T6_Toronto)
'99 S80 has a totally different ETM. Mainly problems with those ETM's were internal potentiometers. There were two and one would always read some wacked out numbers causing major surging and hesitation. They also were prone to sticking from the throttle being very dirty w/carbon buildup. There was a software update and recall on these from '99-01 and some '02. But this was a hit or miss, we still replaced MANY under warranty.
The newer throttle body that the '03 and up have, such as the R has, is much less prone to fail. I do recommend cleaning the throttle every 30K or so as they can have some issues with carbon buildup but the symptoms are usually much less pronounced.
I seriously think something has gone wrong in the timing belt area. I wish the best. As long as valves didn't hit the pistons, consider yourself lucky and complain to your service manager. If it was a pulley or belt that failed, it should be under 12/12 parts warranty. If the belt failed because of being oil soaked though, you may be out of luck on that end.
Don't forget to check the oil level too. But if it was sounding anything like a diesel engine or clicking even if the oil is low, i wouldn't start it again until its verified the timing belt hasn't jumped or a pulley hasn't failed http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
| Quote, originally posted by S80-T6_Toronto » |
| i had similar sympotms on my S80.............check out the ETM, throttle body. |
'99 S80 has a totally different ETM. Mainly problems with those ETM's were internal potentiometers. There were two and one would always read some wacked out numbers causing major surging and hesitation. They also were prone to sticking from the throttle being very dirty w/carbon buildup. There was a software update and recall on these from '99-01 and some '02. But this was a hit or miss, we still replaced MANY under warranty.
The newer throttle body that the '03 and up have, such as the R has, is much less prone to fail. I do recommend cleaning the throttle every 30K or so as they can have some issues with carbon buildup but the symptoms are usually much less pronounced.
I seriously think something has gone wrong in the timing belt area. I wish the best. As long as valves didn't hit the pistons, consider yourself lucky and complain to your service manager. If it was a pulley or belt that failed, it should be under 12/12 parts warranty. If the belt failed because of being oil soaked though, you may be out of luck on that end.
Don't forget to check the oil level too. But if it was sounding anything like a diesel engine or clicking even if the oil is low, i wouldn't start it again until its verified the timing belt hasn't jumped or a pulley hasn't failed http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
Re: (m3nt0s)
I was car shopping the day before this happened, but since my car has 230,000kms on it, I keep getting crappy offers for trade-ins on it. Its going to be tough to upgrade but might certainly be necessary.
If the valves are bent, i might be able to get a rebuild or engine transplant paid for by my aftermarket warranty company, so that might hold it over for a while.
| Quote, originally posted by m3nt0s » |
| What's the mileage like on your R? How long have you had it? If you were to trade/sell it, would it be financially feasible to get into something new? It may be that time to pay for some peace of mind...
|
I was car shopping the day before this happened, but since my car has 230,000kms on it, I keep getting crappy offers for trade-ins on it. Its going to be tough to upgrade but might certainly be necessary.
If the valves are bent, i might be able to get a rebuild or engine transplant paid for by my aftermarket warranty company, so that might hold it over for a while.
Re: (YK-GTR)
If it still ran, then I would say the valves did not hit. Even the slightest hit will bend them and the engine will not have enough compression to run. I've seen a tech replace a t-belt and while doing so he rotated the crank for some reason. He got all upset and just put it where he thought it was ??? Anyway while trying to crank the engine, the pistons hit the valves and off the head had to come. You could barely see where the pistons kissed the valves and not appeared bent to the eye but there was no compression before the head was taken off. As soon as one of the intake valves was taken out, the bend was easily seen by rolling the valve on a table.
The large price of a head job is the cost of the valves. IIRC about $65 ea X 20, plus the machine shop work, usually 3-500 depends on where you live. Then the labor for the tech, probably 12-14hrs maybe more depending on whatever else may be done. I'd say total $2800-3000 total. Thats IF its the head and if all valves hit. Depending on if you can get a used head for a good price and finding someone who will replace it, you might save a large sum. Dealers generally won't install used parts. Depends on if they are hurting real bad.
I'm crossing my fingers for you that its only the belt jumping a few teeth and not hitting any valves. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
Keep us updated.
If it still ran, then I would say the valves did not hit. Even the slightest hit will bend them and the engine will not have enough compression to run. I've seen a tech replace a t-belt and while doing so he rotated the crank for some reason. He got all upset and just put it where he thought it was ??? Anyway while trying to crank the engine, the pistons hit the valves and off the head had to come. You could barely see where the pistons kissed the valves and not appeared bent to the eye but there was no compression before the head was taken off. As soon as one of the intake valves was taken out, the bend was easily seen by rolling the valve on a table.
The large price of a head job is the cost of the valves. IIRC about $65 ea X 20, plus the machine shop work, usually 3-500 depends on where you live. Then the labor for the tech, probably 12-14hrs maybe more depending on whatever else may be done. I'd say total $2800-3000 total. Thats IF its the head and if all valves hit. Depending on if you can get a used head for a good price and finding someone who will replace it, you might save a large sum. Dealers generally won't install used parts. Depends on if they are hurting real bad.
I'm crossing my fingers for you that its only the belt jumping a few teeth and not hitting any valves. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
Keep us updated.
Re: (Oceans60R)
Going to have it towed in later today so that my tech can look at it tomorrow when he has a chance, and let me know... I will definitely keep you posted on the status/outcome.
| Quote, originally posted by Oceans60R » |
| If it still ran, then I would say the valves did not hit. Even the slightest hit will bend them and the engine will not have enough compression to run. I've seen a tech replace a t-belt and while doing so he rotated the crank for some reason. He got all upset and just put it where he thought it was ??? Anyway while trying to crank the engine, the pistons hit the valves and off the head had to come. You could barely see where the pistons kissed the valves and not appeared bent to the eye but there was no compression before the head was taken off. As soon as one of the intake valves was taken out, the bend was easily seen by rolling the valve on a table. The large price of a head job is the cost of the valves. IIRC about $65 ea X 20, plus the machine shop work, usually 3-500 depends on where you live. Then the labor for the tech, probably 12-14hrs maybe more depending on whatever else may be done. I'd say total $2800-3000 total. Thats IF its the head and if all valves hit. Depending on if you can get a used head for a good price and finding someone who will replace it, you might save a large sum. Dealers generally won't install used parts. Depends on if they are hurting real bad. I'm crossing my fingers for you that its only the belt jumping a few teeth and not hitting any valves. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif Keep us updated. |
Going to have it towed in later today so that my tech can look at it tomorrow when he has a chance, and let me know... I will definitely keep you posted on the status/outcome.
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