[V50_M66]

Just crossed 200 miles in this thing since I got it. Also took it up on the highway and did some driving at night and have some things to note.
1. The headlights suck, especially the low beams. Pulled up to my garage, the left side’s pattern looks fine, but the right side is much dimmer and angled in a weird direction, both low and high beam. Pulled the bulbs and they look fine. Tried adjusting it but nothing really happened. Is is worth trying to fix/get new bulbs/etc, or should I start looking for a set of e-codes?
2. It shakes a bit over 60 mph. Seems to do it more when turning slightly right than when turning slightly left but I can’t really tell definitively. Can feel it both in the wheel and in the seat. Anything that’s known to cause shaking on these/most likely to be my issue?
3. Gave it a bunch of gas from a dead stop on a muddy section of the dirt road I live on (a freak warm week has given great weather but no snow to play in), and I’m happy to report that the AWD works fantastically and it didn’t spin any of the tires, which I was impressed by. The Haldex system in my 04 XC70 always seems to spin the front ever so slightly before fully engaging.
4. It self-steers a little bit around fast sweeping corners. I’m gonna order a set of control arm bushings since they’re likely original, and get it aligned at some point soon.

Overall, it seems good aside from a few little things that still need attention.

 

[V50_M66]

Oh also forgot to post that the CEL came on. P0455 - Large Evap Leak. I’m going to order a gas cap since the one in the car looks original, the cord is broken, and the seal looks questionable, and hopefully that’ll take care of it

 

[V50_M66]

So I'm beginning to see why a lot of people get frustrated with trying to find AWD parts/working on AWD specific stuff and end up delta link swapping their cars (although that wouldn't change this issue). Turns out the front control arm is AWD specific and uses a 4 bolt mounting strategy instead of the 2-bolt mount like every other P80. I was hoping to get this set of Powerflex bushings and use this as a chance to upgrade, but it looks like I'm stuck with a whole replacement control arm with rubber bushings. Bummer, especially since it's gonna be more money than the Powerflex bushings cost. What are you gonna do I guess. At least I'll have new ball joints too.

 

[JaredR]

you can swap front subframe to the 2 bolt version

if keeping 4 bolt get one from a C70 with the Aluminum subframe bushings. But make sure you refresh your engine mounts first LOL

 

[V50_M66]

you can swap front subframe to the 2 bolt version

if keeping 4 bolt get one from a C70 with the Aluminum subframe bushings. But make sure you refresh your engine mounts first LOL

Gotcha, makes sense.
Do the poly control arm bushings make enough of a difference to justify the work and cost of swapping to a 2-bolt subframe, or would current subframe + new control arms + Delrin subframe bushings be a good alternative?

 

[JaredR]

Gotcha, makes sense.
Do the poly control arm bushings make enough of a difference to justify the work and cost of swapping to a 2-bolt subframe, or would current subframe + new control arms + Delrin subframe bushings be a good alternative?

I don't have the poly control arm bushings on any of my P80s so no comment on that.

I wouldn't use Delrin subframe bushings in a 4 bolt subframe because they cost more to buy than a subframe at the JY lol. Plus free subframe bracing with upgrade to C70 subframe! Although I am not sure how much it does lol (the ones that are internal to the subframe; the big U shaped brace that goes aft of the subframe is actually legit).

Purely from a UX perspective, there is nothing wrong with Delrin in your existing subframe.

 

[V50_M66]

I don't have the poly control arm bushings on any of my P80s so no comment on that.

I wouldn't use Delrin subframe bushings in a 4 bolt subframe because they cost more to buy than a subframe at the JY lol. Plus free subframe bracing with upgrade to C70 subframe! Although I am not sure how much it does lol (the ones that are internal to the subframe; the big U shaped brace that goes aft of the subframe is actually legit).

Purely from a UX perspective, there is nothing wrong with Delrin in your existing subframe.

Ok, thanks. So sounds like I should go ahead with getting replacement 4 bolt control arms now, and when I do an engine out service this summer I should keep my eyes peeled for C70s in local junkyards and grab a subframe out of one for good, cheap upgrade. Any specific years for the aluminum bushing subframe, or did all MY C70s have it?

 

[JaredR]

only convertibles have it

 

[ScottishBrick]

Skip it. Go Delrin, the C70 bushings hide a large rubber void inside them. Theyre not the solution they appear to be, once you've removed one from a subframe.

 

[V50_M66]

So after some more driving, the car appears to be sitting more level, and the back end is notably higher than before. While still not perfect, I’m wondering if the newfound use is causing my Nivomats to come back a little.

 

[albertj]

So after some more driving, the car appears to be sitting more level, and the back end is notably higher than before. While still not perfect, I’m wondering if the newfound use is causing my Nivomats to come back a little.

Even with good nivos, you have to drive a bit to get them to the adjusted (for your load) ride height. Suggest you get ride height info and measurement points (from VIDA) then drive a couple miles then measure immediately. And you will see what height your nivos adjusted to. Go from there.

 

[Chicago_Wagon]

Yep. The R Nivos also settle when sitting. Driving a little, especially with a load, makes a difference in height. One of these days I’ll measure.

 

[V50_M66]

New gas cap came in. Installed it and cleared the code for a large evap leak. Hopefully that takes care of it and I won't have to drop the tank.

 

[Wayne T5]

New gas cap came in. Installed it and cleared the code for a large evap leak. Hopefully that takes care of it and I won't have to drop the tank.

Few more things to check before you drop the tank if you haven't done these yet: purge valve, hoses (j hose is common culprit), cannister.

 

[V50_M66]

Few more things to check before you drop the tank if you haven't done these yet: purge valve, hoses (j hose is common culprit), cannister.

Will do, thanks Wayne!

 

[JaredR]

I would do the vent lines on top of the gas tank by age but I have no idea how that goes together on AWD or if it is accessible at all.

Being 500 miles from home and not able to fill your gas tank is inconvenient, having had that experience.

 

[V50_M66]

I’m back at school, but was going through my photos and found something I forgot to post about. So the factory Volvo hitch on this car is one of the Euro-style removable ones, and has a pin layout I’m unfamiliar with, and after some searching appears to be the European 7 pin standard. So I have two questions.

1. Why would my US market car have a factory Volvo European hitch? Is this how it was for P80 stuff, or did someone go out of their way to install?
2. Where do I find the removable tow hook without spending over $350 on one from Volvo? A quick eBay search came up empty.

 

[ScottishBrick]

Thats how that hitch was designed. There was an adapter pigtail from the ECE 7 pin to the USDM 4 pin included here, originally.

 

[JaredR]

That's epic. My understanding is that those connectors actually work as there is an ISO standard for it. You may have seen me mention that I intend to convert to 13 pin since I am beyond fed up with 4 pin connectors and associated components that never work. I may know a place that has the towbar. I'll check.

FYI that hitch is rated for 1800kg.

 

[_HighVoltage_]

A couple of suggestions/guesses:
1) Evap leak - if the code comes back, try not filling gas all the way to the top. Fill it just up to 16 gallons (out of 18) and then see what happens. I'm currently dealing with a similar situation.
2) Vibration above 60mph when slightly turning in one direction but not the other - I had this happen once with an aftermarket front axle. The rubber boot wasn't installed correctly and when turned in one direction, it would stretch and rub on the spinning shaft inside causing vibration. Replacement axle fixed that. But this was a fluke/random occurrence.