[bmdubya1198]

The sagging is more likely due to worn out nivomats, assuming that's what you have. AWD lowering springs are only made by TME, and I'm not sure if those are still available. Viva had a limited run of them when I was looking a couple years ago, so who knows what's available now. I'd go ahead and replace the shocks. They're probably visibly leaking.

The FWD swap isn't hard at all, believe it or not. I did it on my V70R and wouldn't go back. But that obviously depends on how much time you want to put into the car/if you want the AWD. I also recommend having a complete FWD parts car for this job... the cost at that point is basically nil... part sales recover any investment.

Word to the wise - use the Volvo coolant and distilled water (or dehumidifier condensate if available). That core kinda looks like the cooling system metals are having a rolling argument.

Yep, proper coolant is a must. People don't realize that it's actually important. The costs isn't much different than any other coolant... just buy the right stuff!

 

[JaredR]

The sagging is more likely due to worn out nivomats, assuming that's what you have. AWD lowering springs are only made by TME, and I'm not sure if those are still available. Viva had a limited run of them when I was looking a couple years ago, so who knows what's available now. I'd go ahead and replace the shocks. They're probably visibly leaking.

The FWD swap isn't hard at all, believe it or not. I did it on my V70R and wouldn't go back. But that obviously depends on how much time you want to put into the car/if you want the AWD. I also recommend having a complete FWD parts car for this job... the cost at that point is basically nil... part sales recover any investment.


Yep, proper coolant is a must. People don't realize that it's actually important. The costs isn't much different than any other coolant... just buy the right stuff!

^

Lots of the AWD stuff is NLA even if you did want to keep it

 

[V50_M66]

If you are AWD you probably have the nivomat shocks, which are designed to self-level with different loads in the back. Your back end may be sagging if you just added or removed cargo from the rear of the car. Sometimes overnight they will settle in and re-level the ride height. And sometimes they are just blown.
Unfortunately, replacing these isn't as easy as replacing/lowering the rear suspension parts, as it is on a FWD car. There are a couple options to re-vamp the system. One is to use S70 AWD non-nivomat suspension parts. Or, some trickier folks have used a corvette shock with slightly modified mount holes and a new spring with an entirely different rating. The other option is to ditch the AWD and completely replace the rear end with the suspension from a FWD car. Which is not as hard as it sounds. But of course you no longer have an AWD car.
The other option of course is to replace with the same Volvo parts, but if I'm not mistaken the nivomat shocks are NLA? I have had decent luck finding good ones in junk yards over the years, but it's been 7-8 years since I had to do that.
I think a few searches on this site for Nivomat replacement should give you more details.

The sagging is more likely due to worn out nivomats, assuming that's what you have. AWD lowering springs are only made by TME, and I'm not sure if those are still available. Viva had a limited run of them when I was looking a couple years ago, so who knows what's available now. I'd go ahead and replace the shocks. They're probably visibly leaking.

The FWD swap isn't hard at all, believe it or not. I did it on my V70R and wouldn't go back. But that obviously depends on how much time you want to put into the car/if you want the AWD. I also recommend having a complete FWD parts car for this job... the cost at that point is basically nil... part sales recover any investment.

So sounds like first step is to check the VIN plate to see what suspension I have and if it does have rear Nivomats.
I saw those TME springs on Viva, they seem to still have them. They are also insanely expensive - over $500 including shipping and taxes which I can't justify on an $800 car. I also don't want to spend almost $800 on Nivomats.

The rear shocks feel tight, which is why I was thinking sagging springs, but after reading this it's probably blown Nivomats if I have them.

Seems like it be possible to put regular shocks and springs in to replace the Nivomat stuff. I would probably just need non-Nivomat V70 shocks (one of these two - which one would I get?) and conventional springs, correct?

FWD swap seems like kind of an ordeal, and something I'd only consider if I could find a dirt-cheap manual car, so I could manual swap it at the same time. I will probably just fix it as is for now unless such a car comes up for sale in my area at some point soon. If I'm keeping it automatic for the time being, I might as well keep the AWD and enjoy some sideways fun in the snow.

 

[V50_M66]

^

Lots of the AWD stuff is NLA even if you did want to keep it

FCP seems to have most of it in stock, including two different Nivomat options, which I was surprised by. I am running into difficulty finding any reasonably priced performance parts for AWD cars (that aren't $500 TME springs or $2,500 KW V2s), which I was surprised by considering the existence of the V70R.

 

[V50_M66]

Just went out to the car and checked - M rear shock code, indicating Nivomats. Yep, that's likely my issue. Now to figure out what to do about it.
(Also, this FCP article proved quite useful for decoding that plate)

 

[bmdubya1198]

So sounds like first step is to check the VIN plate to see what suspension I have and if it does have rear Nivomats.
I saw those TME springs on Viva, they seem to still have them. They are also insanely expensive - over $500 including shipping and taxes which I can't justify on an $800 car. I also don't want to spend almost $800 on Nivomats.

The rear shocks feel tight, which is why I was thinking sagging springs, but after reading this it's probably blown Nivomats if I have them.

Seems like it be possible to put regular shocks and springs in to replace the Nivomat stuff. I would probably just need non-Nivomat V70 shocks (one of these two - which one would I get?) and conventional springs, correct?

FWD swap seems like kind of an ordeal, and something I'd only consider if I could find a dirt-cheap manual car, so I could manual swap it at the same time. I will probably just fix it as is for now unless such a car comes up for sale in my area at some point soon. If I'm keeping it automatic for the time being, I might as well keep the AWD and enjoy some sideways fun in the snow.

Correct, this should be all you need. The delta link swap is something that I would only recommend doing if you're totally dedicated to the end goal of cutting weight and building a FWD P80. For a daily driver grade car, I wouldn't bother. The only perk I could see is improved gas mileage from the reduced weight, but to be honest I saw zero improvement in my gas mileage after doing the swap. Still awful!

...although I did get it around 21 mpg today on my junkyard run and back and forth to the shop after resetting the display.You have to keep a very light foot to get decent gas mileage in this car... which I'm not a fan of doing.

 

[V50_M66]

Correct, this should be all you need. The delta link swap is something that I would only recommend doing if you're totally dedicated to the end goal of cutting weight and building a FWD P80. For a daily driver grade car, I wouldn't bother. The only perk I could see is improved gas mileage from the reduced weight, but to be honest I saw zero improvement in my gas mileage after doing the swap. Still awful!

...although I did get it around 21 mpg today on my junkyard run and back and forth to the shop after resetting the display.You have to keep a very light foot to get decent gas mileage in this car... which I'm not a fan of doing.

I’d certainly consider it for better aftermarket support in terms of suspension parts and easier, cheaper, and more plentiful manual swap options. I’m currently not sure if I want to go down that path with this car though, and currently don’t have the time or money for that project being that I’m still in school. Maybe one day that will become a reality. For now, I think it’ll be a fun and reliable budget daily-driver type build, and will maintain the AWD.

 

[V50_M66]

Trying to figure out suspension differences here. Does anyone know what if any stiffness difference is between the blue-marked “product plate code 8” shock (PN 9461631) and the green-marked “product plate code 9” shock (PN 9492049)?

Also, since the rear is stiff and at a ride height I like already, could I technically lower the front and call it good, at least for the time being (another in the long list of odd Volvospeed mods from back in the day) with 850R springs or something similar (don’t really want to pay up for a full set of lowering springs if I’m only using the fronts)? The rear shocks seem to be decent as far as shock absorbing ability goes, don’t bounce around, and feel good and stiff (and I could further that with the rear bar out of my parts XC if it’s larger). Is that a viable option or a stupid idea best left in Volvospeed land?

 

[bmdubya1198]

You could try that, I was gonna say too that I like where the rear sits on your car. Mine is too low on an old pair of FCP springs (back when they made parts). I was just thinking I'd like to change it up and go with some different springs.

The rake shown in the pic a couple posts down with that laser R is how my car sat WITH fooler spacers, and it looked like crap. I can't stand the rake. It had to be weighed down to look decent.

 

[V50_M66]

You could try that, I was gonna say too that I like where the rear sits on your car. Mine is too low on an old pair of FCP springs (back when they made parts). I was just thinking I'd like to change it up and go with some different springs.

The rake shown in the pic a couple posts down with that laser R is how my car sat WITH fooler spacers, and it looked like crap. I can't stand the rake. It had to be weighed down to look decent.

Ok cool - I’ll probably go that route. I’ll gladly buy those FCP springs off you if/when you change it up.

If anyone is selling used lowering springs, let me know.

Alternatively, is there a factory spring that will give me enough drop in the front to match the rear, or should I hold out for a used set of lowering springs?

 

[V50_M66]

First real wash. Man I love this color

 

[ZZZZZZZ]

Volvo has such great paint. They USED to have such great color ways.

 

[JaredR]

FCP seems to have most of it in stock, including two different Nivomat options, which I was surprised by. I am running into difficulty finding any reasonably priced performance parts for AWD cars (that aren't $500 TME springs or $2,500 KW V2s), which I was surprised by considering the existence of the V70R.

You need to dive deeper into the parts catalog.

Delta link swap and manual swap are not overlapping projects so I would not bundle those projects in your mind.

 

[albertj]

Genuine Volvo coolant is all I use in these things, but is not what was used by whoever last worked on/filled the cooling system

+1 to that. Have had the same problem on both Volvos I currently own. For whatever reason there's motorists who think they are exempt from the transformations of chemistry, favorable or unfavorable. I mean, if you understand and account fo rthe metallurgy then use whatever you want but if not then just stick with the spec and watch out for the manufacturer's procliviites.

For example, DexCool is 100% OK stuff -- BUT you have to change it more often (100,000 miles/5 years instead of 150,000 miles) if your local water chemistry is adverse. Et Cetera.

Albertj

 

[albertj]

So sounds like first step is to check the VIN plate to see what suspension I have and if it does have rear Nivomats.
I saw those TME springs on Viva, they seem to still have them. They are also insanely expensive - over $500 including shipping and taxes which I can't justify on an $800 car. I also don't want to spend almost $800 on Nivomats.

The rear shocks feel tight, which is why I was thinking sagging springs, but after reading this it's probably blown Nivomats if I have them.

Seems like it be possible to put regular shocks and springs in to replace the Nivomat stuff. I would probably just need non-Nivomat V70 shocks (one of these two - which one would I get?) and conventional springs, correct?

FWD swap seems like kind of an ordeal, and something I'd only consider if I could find a dirt-cheap manual car, so I could manual swap it at the same time. I will probably just fix it as is for now unless such a car comes up for sale in my area at some point soon. If I'm keeping it automatic for the time being, I might as well keep the AWD and enjoy some sideways fun in the snow.

WOrd to the wise - it's not an $800 car anymore, except to the insurer, when you get the problems straightened out.

 

[JaredR]

WOrd to the wise - it's not an $800 car anymore, except to the insurer, when you get the problems straightened out.

This is true but it's also only an $800 car to the insurer if it's on a normal policy. With multiple cars in the fleet, all but the daily should be moved to a classic/collector policy with an insurer like Hagerty or Grundy. I doubt either of them would ask any questions about issuing a policy for anything under $10k for it.

 

[V50_M66]

This is true but it's also only an $800 car to the insurer if it's on a normal policy. With multiple cars in the fleet, all but the daily should be moved to a classic/collector policy with an insurer like Hagerty or Grundy. I doubt either of them would ask any questions about issuing a policy for anything under $10k for it.

Funny you say that - I actually tried to insure this car through Hagerty, but since it’s 24 years old, not 25, and “we’ve had a sudden rise in crashes if those cars lately” (yep, that’s actually what they said), they wouldn’t insure it. Ended up going through my existing Geico policy.

 

[JaredR]

Funny you say that - I actually tried to insure this car through Hagerty, but since it’s 24 years old, not 25, and “we’ve had a sudden rise in crashes if those cars lately” (yep, that’s actually what they said), they wouldn’t insure it. Ended up going through my existing Geico policy.

Interesting. I'm surprised they insure enough of them to have statistically significant data on them.

Take a look at Grundy as well. I keep meaning to get a real quote because the preliminary one was excellent but too busy moving still lol.

 

[V50_M66]

Interesting. I'm surprised they insure enough of them to have statistically significant data on them.

Take a look at Grundy as well. I keep meaning to get a real quote because the preliminary one was excellent but too busy moving still lol.

I was surprised by that too. Since I already had an account with Geico I just went through them for convenience, but I’ll take a look at Grundy too. Didn’t cross my mind to try them too, since I already have a Hagerty account, but if they are cheaper than my current policy might as well flip it over to them

 

[Wayne T5]

The Grundy policy for my T-5R is about half what I was paying Hagerty.