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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am considering getting the R rustproofed because the new saline solutions they started using a couple years ago appear to be doing a lot more corrosive damage than the older rock salt used to because it gets where the salt did not and moves around the underside/body because it's a liquid. The underside on '04 Lincoln LS is in bad shape and I'll probably have to retire the car due to underbody frame rust (eg. jacking points are getting weaker) even though it's mechanically sound and the V8 still has lots of life left in it.

I was speaking to the service folks at a Subaru dealer an hour north of where I live when my in-laws had their 2012 Forrester in for brake repairs due to corrosion and the service advisor said the stronger saline solution used where they live (2 hours north of us) eats away at everything under the car and causing early failure of parts in the braking system and under-carriage. They advised to use the electronic rust control modules but I don't know if there is evidence yet that those work better than the oil sprays. The dealers do get a great markup on them so it's an incentive to sell them.

I am concerned about the R and would like to do more to protect it if I can.

There are different options out there so curious to see what others in snow belts have done for their R's.

The one I have been looking at it Krown which does drip when first applied but it does travel and get into spots where the saline solution can get to so the oil can displace the saline solution so it doesn't sit on the metal. Also protects brake, fuel lines, etc.

The problem with Krown (and I believe Rust Check) is they do drill small holes at various points to get the oil into certain body/frame parts.

There is also Rust Check and Ziebart.

https://www.krown.com/process/

https://rustcheck.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=121&Itemid=138

http://www.ziebart.com/auto-care-services/vehicle-protection/rust-protection
 

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The r is rust proof
 

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hey, good idea !

drill holes in your car to let the rust out !

[video]https://youtu.be/NxEOiqtV_MA?t=325[/video]
 

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I got my R rust proofed this summer before the winter. I live in canada so salted roads are really common and cars rust really quickly here, doing this helps a TON and is a must if you wanna keep your R rust proof, anyone that says otherwise is completely off.

I got mine done at an independant shop and they did a very good job, they do drill holes for exemple when you open your door they will drill a hole where the bracket for door lock is so they can shoot all the way inside the panels to keep them rust proof, they put a rubber boot to cover the hole after. They also drill some holes back in the trunk to reach every spot in the fenders and all the way inside the trunk lid, nothing wrong with drilling holes to ensure the inside of your body frame stays clean, most people put this step apart but it's actually the most important one, rust that you dont see is the worst rust.

Second thing you might want to know is the best anti-rust solution is actually drip free, if the solution drips a lot it will never stay on there long enough to ensure 100% protection all the winter, this is a common trick to get you come back for re-spraying so they make money. My independant shop is really safe and sprays a drip free solution with an oil/wax base, it's really thick and can be sprayed everywhere. The solution is transparent and not dark, my rust-proofing will last for 2 years using this method and i pay 25$ per year to have them do a check up and respray on areas that it's lacking product.

A good part that most people tend to forget is you ABSOLUTELY need to get your car sprayed when everything is 100% dry.

An important step is you also need to make sure you drive tru some dusty road 2-3 days after the spraying so you get an extra barrier of protection, it will end up dusty anyways but you want to accelerate the process before salt hits the parts.

If you live in an area where rust is common i say go for it 100% and make sure you have it done properly.

You want a proof that this method works ? the guy that did my spraying at the shop has a really old volvo that has always lived in canada where a lot of cars rust out fast and his volvo is 100% free of rust. You can also check my thread to see my R, 2005 passion red that has lived all it's life in salty roads in canada and there is absolutely no rust on the paint or under the car.
 

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I live in Utah so we get it double. Salt all over the roads everywhere, and then salt in the flipping air from the Great salt lake. I live only miles from it.

Rust is crazy here, I had a 99 Infiniti G20T that was fine looking on top but rusted out so bad on the bottom that I could not jack the front of the car up from the core support, it would just smash in when you tried to jack it up, sold that car off.

If you only keep your cars a couple of years, not really worth it. I keep my cars longer so I feel it's worth it.

I have used the Eastwood internal rust stopping frame coatings, works great but it is expensive so I only buy when it's on sale.

I have also messed around with the Bosheild, which is a clear coating safe for rubber parts so I will spray the CZ boots and other rubber moving parts, too expensive to spray the whole under car with. Designed by Boeing to protect expensive aluminum airplane parts from salt corrosion.

I have heard good things about fluid film.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got my R rust proofed this summer before the winter. I live in canada so salted roads are really common and cars rust really quickly here, doing this helps a TON and is a must if you wanna keep your R rust proof, anyone that says otherwise is completely off.

I got mine done at an independant shop and they did a very good job, they do drill holes for exemple when you open your door they will drill a hole where the bracket for door lock is so they can shoot all the way inside the panels to keep them rust proof, they put a rubber boot to cover the hole after. They also drill some holes back in the trunk to reach every spot in the fenders and all the way inside the trunk lid, nothing wrong with drilling holes to ensure the inside of your body frame stays clean, most people put this step apart but it's actually the most important one, rust that you dont see is the worst rust.

Second thing you might want to know is the best anti-rust solution is actually drip free, if the solution drips a lot it will never stay on there long enough to ensure 100% protection all the winter, this is a common trick to get you come back for re-spraying so they make money. My independant shop is really safe and sprays a drip free solution with an oil/wax base, it's really thick and can be sprayed everywhere. The solution is transparent and not dark, my rust-proofing will last for 2 years using this method and i pay 25$ per year to have them do a check up and respray on areas that it's lacking product.

A good part that most people tend to forget is you ABSOLUTELY need to get your car sprayed when everything is 100% dry.

An important part is you also need to make sure you drive tru a very dusty road immediately after the spraying so you get all the particles to stick to the product to make it last even longer and that will provide an extra barrier of protection. Yes your parts will be dirty and wont look shiny anymore but it's better than seeing rust all over the place...

If you live in an area where rust is common i say go for it 100% and make sure you have it done properly.

You want a proof that this method works ? the guy that did my spraying at the shop has a really old volvo that has always lived in canada where a lot of cars rust out fast and his volvo is 100% free of rust. You can also check my thread to see my R, 2005 passion red that has lived all it's life in salty roads in canada and there is absolutely no rust on the paint or under the car.
Thanks - what type of rust proofing does your shop use? I haven't heard of that type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The r is rust proof
It has factory rust-proofing but the various lines, etc under the car are not protected, and the rust proofing doesn't stand up over time. The road salt is bad but the salt solution is terrible for metal. The Lincoln was factory rust-proofed as well and came with similar aluminum parts but the underside frame still rusted to the point that the dealership can only put it on a drive-on hoist now.
 

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I used fluid film this winter and the past two on my car and it seems to do a good job, but it only lasts ~6-12 months since its oil based. I just used a few spray cans (does come by the gallon, maybe larger) and sprayed every opening and up and above anything the straw attachment thing could reach, but I know there are shops that will use fluid film. However much of the car you really want covered is really up to if the shop offers it, youu could have any product sprayed in doors or through drilled holes.
 

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You want a proof that this method works ? the guy that did my spraying at the shop has a really old volvo that has always lived in canada where a lot of cars rust out fast and his volvo is 100% free of rust. You can also check my thread to see my R, 2005 passion red that has lived all it's life in salty roads in canada and there is absolutely no rust on the paint or under the car.
Didn't you buy your R less than a year ago? Did the previous owner use the same rustproofing treatment?
 

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I would think you wouldn't want dirt to stick to the new coating until it dried. As the dirt will hold moisture causing the salt solution to have a way of holding on and work it's magic.

I think a better solution is to wash your R more often in the winter.
 

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Didn't you buy your R less than a year ago? Did the previous owner use the same rustproofing treatment?
The car has always been threated at the place i got at, the previous owner told me to keep going there.
 

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I would think you wouldn't want dirt to stick to the new coating until it dried. As the dirt will hold moisture causing the salt solution to have a way of holding on and work it's magic.

I think a better solution is to wash your R more often in the winter.
The oil/wax base solution that they use at the shop does not dry, it becomes SLIGHTLY less sticky after a day or two but does not end up dry at all, if you put your finger on the substances it remains tacky and offers a lot of protection against salt, hey afterall they are specialized on doing stuff like this and their shop is in quebec canada... Famous place for the amount of salt they put on roads etc. I can tell their product works since my R is free of rust, without having it treated since the beginning it would already be starting to rust underneath and on the fenders.

Also washing the R more often during winter does not do anything into keeping the corrosion away, maybe on the paint but underneath the salt will still be all over the parts and i'm not going to crawl under the car everyday with a pressure washer to get all the **** off. Anyways the minute you are going to leave with your car freshly washed it will be full of snow salt underneath and on the paint in no time and i dont have the time to do this everyday.

I can tell you dont live where i do if you think simple washing is going to keep the rust away from a car... an oil/wax barrier of protection is the best method to keep it protected.

Fluid film is also pretty good.

If this can help you guys understand what kind of product it is here is a brief explanation of what they offer.

1 Year treatment - the solution is a lot darker and doesn't last as long, i assume there is more oil in it.
2 Year treatment - the solution is not dark anymore and is a lot more transparent, i didn't ask what the mix was but i assume there is wax involved and less oil, maybe even fluid film.
3 Year treatment - they do this on cars that are almost brand new, not sure of the mix on this one but it's transparent as well.

Your car is elligible for 2 year treatment if there is NO rust underneath and no visible signs of advanced rust anywhere.
Otherwise they do 1 year treatment on cars that already have surface rust to make sure it stays protected and that the rust doesnt grow as fast.

the 2 year treatment costed me 120$, i was there when they sprayed and it was a wonderfull professionnal job, was really pleased and the owner ended up showing me his old volvo which i could tell their method worked since there was absolutely no rust signs on it, i believe it was around 25+ years old car.

It's really all about where you get it done, find a trust worthy place.
 

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Maybe the best question is to ask who has had rust problems with their car, and what did you do or did not do?

I was told by a fellow Quebecer to not do the rust proofing- so I haven't..at least not yet.

Searching for answers myself, and am not enthused by the prospect of drilling holes.
 

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My XC came from Cincinnati and has been in Toronto since 2012, plenty of salt in both regions. Quite sure it has never been rust proofed and I have not nor do I plan to do it. Besides some surface rust on fasteners and other parts everything looks good. Only rust related issues was removing the stock cat-back that was being scrapped anyways so I torched it off, and the bottom nut on the front endlink (good luck protecting that). My thought, if too thick of a coating of rustproofing is applied then it's possible for moisture and salt to find it's way in behind this coating and become trapped in direct contact with the body. Many touchless car washes have a underspray option, many coin-op washes in my area (like around the block from me) have $1 start. Being a XC the ride height great to easily get at it with a pressure washer. A quick stop on the way home after a salty day is a dollar well spent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My XC came from Cincinnati and has been in Toronto since 2012, plenty of salt in both regions. Quite sure it has never been rust proofed and I have not nor do I plan to do it. Besides some surface rust on fasteners and other parts everything looks good. Only rust related issues was removing the stock cat-back that was being scrapped anyways so I torched it off, and the bottom nut on the front endlink (good luck protecting that). My thought, if too thick of a coating of rustproofing is applied then it's possible for moisture and salt to find it's way in behind this coating and become trapped in direct contact with the body. Many touchless car washes have a underspray option, many coin-op washes in my area (like around the block from me) have $1 start. Being a XC the ride height great to easily get at it with a pressure washer. A quick stop on the way home after a salty day is a dollar well spent.
I live in Caledon north of Toronto and work in the city and know that we get snow/ice when Toronto is dry so there is more saline sprayed on the roads as you go north from Toronto (Barrie and north even more). I also park my car outside so don't wash as often in the winter as the water than gets behind trim freezes and can separate pieces as the ice expands. I have read that the really thick coatings (drip-free) can trap moisture against metal. After seeing what happened to the Lincoln, I want to avoid that with the R.
 

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Guys over on the Land Rover forums recommend this stuff:

http://learchem.com/products/corrosion-block.html

You can buy it at most marine/boat stores.

I haven't seen much rust on my R to be honest, and it has been through some rough winters. Just surface rust on things like the rear control arms and the exhaust (had to replace the stock exhaust due to rust).
 

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Volvo's chassis are pretty well rustproofed as most of us have seen via both old and new models. The problem areas for corrosion and related maintenance, like suspension hardware and exhaust, are not going to be saved by any magic elixir unfortunately.
 

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Volvo's chassis are pretty well rustproofed as most of us have seen via both old and new models. The problem areas for corrosion and related maintenance, like suspension hardware and exhaust, are not going to be saved by any magic elixir unfortunately.
I forgot, one thing I used to do whenever I had access to (like seasonal wheel changes) is to give any fasteners a shot of zinc primer, but I haven't done this in a while as I've ran out and keep forgetting to buy more.
 

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The strut tower area where the spring is are pretty prone to corrosion when facing salt every year in snow conditions. I know because there was a hole in my strut tower due to salt being thrown on top of the tower where the spring is due to the wheel spinning. I had to cut a part of the tower and weld on new plates of metal using bronze welding with a torch since i dont have a welder. I particularly keep that area covered in anti corrosion fluid just to be sure it doesnt happen again, will most likely take the suspension appart next summer and clean everything up completely though.
 

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I run our cars through brush-less car washers frequently during the winter. They have forced water sprayed under the car to clean the chassis. So far we have had no rust issues. It has been mentioned here and in other posts that Volvo cars are exceptional in fighting rust, but it never hurts to do what we can.
 
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