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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone.
Any pointers as to the removal of angle/bevel box to gain access to the turbo area from underneath would be gratefully accepted as there's little or no info that I can locate. Living in an isolated area, miles from any suitable garages it's something I'll have to tackle myself..


Russ t.
 

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Hope this helps.



Update: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showt...igger-On-the-16T&p=172664&posted=1#post172664

Finally had a chance to get around to installing all the part...well most of the parts. The catback exhaust is back ordered and will have to wait for later, but no biggie. Overall the install wasn't too hard, just took a lot of time and labour as this was my first time getting this deep into my XC.

Here is my process:

- Disconnected the battery.

- Strut Brace: 4x 13mm bolt on the strut towers and one 18mm nut and bolt for the motor mount. There is one clip on the passenger side for a wire harness

- Air Box: Removed all the part being supported to the air box. Disconnected the MAF and the intake pipe. Slide to the left and pull up.

- Intake Air Pipe: Previously installed IPD intake pipe. Disconnect the pipe for the turbo housing. Pull back and turn CW to gain access to the 2 vacuum hoses and the PTC. Disconnect the the electrical connector for the PTC by pushing down on the metal wire on the connector. Disconnect the hose from the PTC and the 2 other hoses on the pipe

- Charge Air Pipe: Previously installed IPD Charge Air Pipe. Disconnect the pipe clamp and fold out of the way

- Turbo Heat Shield: 3x 10mm Bolts. Push the heat shield down into the space beside the downpipe then work it out.

- Front O2 Sensor: Connector is located right under the intake pipe close to the turbo intake. The connector sits on a brace which is mounted with nylon retainers that can be pulled out. The connector has a white tab lock that lifts up to disconnect. Route the wire back to space where the O2 is located.

Turbo/ Downpipe From Top of Car:
- 3x 10mm Downpipe bolt. *Could also work the 2 lower bolts from underneath if access is too tight.
- 2x 13mm Turbo to manifold nuts
- 2x Vacuum lines from the turbo. one on the housing and one on the wastegate *MARK THESE
- 1x 17mm Oil Supply Banjo Bolt from the top of the turbo

- Loosen the coolant reservoir cap and the engine oil cap then lift the car.

- Drain the coolant: Through the lower rad hose, block drain, or the radiator petcock

- Drain the Oil: Not a must, but I was due for a change anyway

- Downpipe Turbo Bottom of Car:
Disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust, two bolts at flange.
Remove the retaining bracket: 4x 13mm Bolts. Bracket retains the heat shield and some wiring.
Disconnect the rear O2 sensor: the connector is located by the retaining bracket. It has a red lock tab the you can wedge a flat head under to disconnect.
Remove the rubber hangers and the pipe will come free.

Now for the fun part. You will become real familiar with your angle gear as it will get in the way of everything you do here.

- Disconnect the Oil/Coolant pipe retaining bracket: Don't remember what size, but it was a tork head, and sits right behind the angle gear. It only hold the two pipes together and nothing else.
- Remove the 2x 17mm coolant Banjo bolts: Fairly east as they are facing straight back.
- Disconnect the oil return line: This one is a bit tricky. Used a 3/8" swivel ratchet connection with T30 tork on the end of a 18" extension. Used one hand to guide the bit, the other to work the wrench. Once the bolts are out, wiggle the other end out of the block and retrieve the O-ring from the block.
- Disconnect the oil supply line: Not sure if you have to, but for the sake of not damaging it I removed it. Near the passenger side of the block facing back there is a 19mm banjo.
- Remove the 2 lower manifold/turbo nuts: 2x 13mm nuts. the one on the passenger side was easier as there was good access. the other is kind of wedged between the angle gear and the transmission. Took me a bit of fussing but I got it out eventually. A 13mm stubby box-end wrench was key to my success.

By now everything is loose and apart. I was able to remove the turbo from the space between the block and the passenger side drive-shaft from under the car. The new turbo fit into this space as well without a hassle. You can also fish it up and through the engine bay, but it's a bit tight.

Pretty much install is the reverse of removal. I didn't use any torque specs, just my gut feeling to reassemble everything. The turbo came with a CBV block-off, the diverter valve I had ordered was a snap to put in with the bosses on the IPD pipes. After the oil and coolant was topped off, I pulled Fuse #11 from the engine compartment fuse box to disable the ignition coils, cranked the engine over a few time, put the fuse back, started it up and let it run for 15min before driving. Nothing has leaked so far and I have had it hot and cold several time. I haven't gone into boost territory yet, but i will post up some data later on once the break-in is done, but what I can say is that I already hear a major difference in the sound of the turbo spooling compared to stock.

Although the hardware kit I received had gaskets and hardware to piece everything back together, it did not include new washers for the 19mm banjo bolt and new manifold to turbo nuts and studs. I had to go to my local dealer to pick up those extra parts and it came out to $40 for 2 manifold studs, 2 manifold nuts and 2 19mm copper washers. You need the manifold bolts as you will most likely not be able to retrieve the ones from your old exhaust housing,

The tough parts of the job for me were:
- Removing the Oil Return line from the turbo
- Removing the lower diver side turbo to manifold nut
- Removing the rear O2 sensor from the old cat
- Reinstalling the Intake pipe to the compressor housing. A little vaseline would help here. I didn't realize it, but the inlet on the new turbo is just a little larger then the old turbo.... Had a good time with that.

During the install I also replaced my front O2 sensor with a new bosch, a new MAF, and new plugs with the HD coils, and replaced my K&N for a OE filter for good measure. The car actually idles a ton better, nice and smooth with very little vibration. Not sure what did it, either it's because my engine is breathing easier, or my sensors were shot, or a combination of both, everything on my engine checked out before the install, and i don't think it's the tune as i was running the stage 2 tune with my previous setup for a week before this install with the same vibration. I'm very happy with this result as I became accustomed to the XC vibrating a bit at idle.

For pics check the link.
 

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You need to disconnect the driveshaft and the bevel gear, remove passenger side axle, then 5x 13mm bolts that holds BG to the gearbox, then simply pull it out away from the collar sleeve. Dropping it down near subframe could be a bit difficult, need to rotate the BG.

For the axle removal I remove brake caliper, bracket and disk, remove the upper bolt that keeps struct attached to the knuckle and slacken the lower one. Then it will be possible to slightly move the knuckle outwards and turn it, the axle leaves the wheel hub and can be taken out. CV joint is at awkward angle, but doable. Take care not to damage the ball joint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cheers guys, thanks for the info.... onwards and upwards !!! I'm looking forward to this particular job, not, all to get to a leaking coolant issue !!
Russ t.
 

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Cheers guys, thanks for the info.... onwards and upwards !!! I'm looking forward to this particular job, not, all to get to a leaking coolant issue !!
Russ t.
If you just need access to turbo you can also remove the heat shield and come in from the top.

You could get lucky and just have to tighten a banjo bolt, which you might be able to do from the top.
 
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