[baltimore john]

hi,

I have a 1966 122s and the trunk lid does not stay open. The guy that owned it previously just propped it open with a stick. But I see there are two long spring bars that run laterally and attach to the trunk hinges. So I can only assume these are intended to keep the trunk open. Is this correct?

So there just don't seem to be many other Amazon owners in my area of Baltimore, Maryland. I feel like if I could see one that works properly and study it for a few minutes, I could probably identify how to rework mine. I attempted to rearrange the bars this weekend with the help of a friend, but besides scraping a bunch of pain, fatiguing the metal of the channel is sides into on the end and a few nags on the head and scraped knuckles, nothing was accomplished. I would really appreciate any advice on this, and maybe some detailed pictures of how it's supposed to work.

Thank you,

John

 

[mdrains]

Go to this link and sees section on trunk torsion rods that hold the trunk open.

http://volvoamazonpictures.se/documents/sevice_manuals/8Body120.pdf

If that doesn't work for you, let me know, and I'll try and get some pictures of my trunk setup ('66 130).

 

[Csm22]

John,

Was about to offer the same link. While not exactly nearby, I live in Northern Delaware (Middletown/Newark area), if you cant find a more local example (not sure of there's any other Amazons around here -- '66 122S).

-Chris

 

[baltimore john]

appreciate it. So I see in the illustration they are using a tool to release the torsion bar. I am not clear on what that tool is. The picture is also not super clear. Any ideas?

And yes, I would love to see some detailed pics of your trunk hinge.

Thank you,

John

 

[mdrains]

Here's some pictures, hope they help. Mike

The first picture is right side and shows lower rod retained in slots. This lower rod is the torsion rod for the left hinge.
Second picture is right side and shows upper rod (torsion rod for right hinge) in first slot. Third picture shows same in final slot in hinge.
Fourth picture is both torsion rods crossing in the middle.

 

[LevinES]

Like many other Amazon owners I've had the exact same problems with the trunk and gone through incredible pains trying to replace two worn out torsion bars -only to realize they weren't that worn out after all... Well, with the right tool it is literally a 15 minute job to replace both. Emphasis on "THE RIGHT TOOL"! Any thing else makes it a nightmare and a task where logic/common sense would tell you to leave it until the right tool was available. Now some people (ahem) approach such task in the same fashion as with instruction manuals; we just don't read them because "just how difficult could it be".... answer; difficult. The tool it self is very simple provided you had the measures and materials. Eventually I borrowed a home made equivalent from a fellow Volvo enthusiast. There are two positions in which to place the end of the torsion bars depending on the level of torque you want. I choose the softest because, well because they were brand new and if the old ones had held up for some 40+ years in that position. Man did I regret this after a while. Once again forget about "nudging" the ends in to the next position. No can do. You need the tool again.

I had subsequently moved and no immediate access to another Volvo enthusiast with this tool. Also, I was disappointed to note how relatively quick the new ones went soft.
After a looong while thinking what to do and wishing to have gas struts I finally spotted a picture of a similar 123GT in Switzerland where the Owner had fitted a gas strut.
With no specs available it took a while to measure and work out the power of the strut(s).

Eventually I had it all sorted and below are a few photos of the end result of which I'm very satisfied. I opted for two struts of 250 nm each and this gives a little aid at the end of the opening and hold the lid perfectly while not being too hard to close. Today I might have tried with 2 x 300 nm just to have that little extra pushing the lid up as you'd expect in say any modern car.

I got fantastic support in this project from the customer service of the company here in Denmark and had a first trial run with one strut which was way too powerful but fittings and length ok. On this basis the 2 x 250 nm struts were purchased along with the fittings. I see the company is also represented in the US and while I'm not in any way affiliated to this company I am happy to recommend them + they have a very easy configurator on their website where you just type in the details and buy online: sodemann-springs.us

Your shopping list should look like this;



The total costs for a twin setup like mine would be approx. USD 125.- If you want to scramble through salvage yards it's probably also an option. I just don't want to spend the time + this way you get all the correct fittings.

Only modification I did was to the bracket "EF-BR15Z" where I cut off and smoothened the lower part so it only had one mounting eye.
This to avoid it would sit below the hinges and e.g. obstruct luggage.







John

 

[Ron Kwas]

John;

Thanks for great info on fitting gas struts!

I recall seeing the Special Volvo tOol (SVO) for this a long time ago, but don't remember details...having played with trying to adjust the springs at one point myself without it, I offer these words of CAUTION: Other than trying to manipulate the torsion springs ends with anything but the SVO is pretty much pointless, and will quite possibly result in flying tools, broken springs, and/or blood splatters! Those springs can store tremendous amounts of energy, and release this instantaneously if not under full control...and they don't care what (or who) is in the way! I don't wish to sound like Mr. OSHA, because I certainly am not, but wear Eye Protection even when using the right tool!!

Having changed over to struts, I don't suppose you have a picture of the Special Volvo tOol (SVO) necessary to remove or adjust the OE torsion springs...I'd like to try making one (I realize it would have to be a forged assy).

Cheers

 

[LloydDobler]

There are pics of it on page 8-16 and 8-21 of the PDF that mdrains linked in the second post. Looks like it would be not too hard to copy.

 

[mdrains]

I don't undestand how the torsion rod spring design can wear down over time. I don't see how trunk openings/closing could approach the fatigue life of this design but maybe I'm missing something.

Still, it would be great Ron, if you pursued the tool design and other remedies for your excellent support website. I'm going to try and see if I can find this tool from some old mechanic contacts in the Charlotte area. Will let you know if I find anything.

 

[jg928s4]

how much Bondo on that trunk, does it weigh 10 lbs more than original?

 

[LloydDobler]

Hey mdrains - check your PMs or email me.

I agree, the only fundamental way they can relax is if they weren't tempered right from the factory, or were stressed too close to yield when the trunk was closed. Tightening them would only make that problem worse.

Maybe it's a lubrication thing, where they can't spin right or the hinges are too sticky and adding force where they shouldn't. My trunk doesn't hold up all the way, I think I'll try some lube and see what's up. I know that was the case for my hood, it was stiff and hard to lift when I got the car. Dripped some oil in the hinges and now I have to hold it from springing open hard.

 

[Ron Kwas]

Lloyd; I agree, lubrication is an important (and often overlooked) first step. Unfortunately, I don't get enough detail from the pix in the Service manual to attempt cloning SVO 2572...we need to keep looking...but I agree also...you wouldn't expect the spring to yield if it spent its' life under its' yield level.

mdrains; I have seen major wear (by grinding) on the torsion rod ends, where it is under serious preload into its' holder...this grinding is undoubtedly associated with serious friction which should be minimized by lubrication......and thanks for the kind words!

Cheers

 

[dcthompson]

With a perfect solution (gas springs) readily available, why would anyone bother with those awful torsion bar springs? The Sodeman gas springs are reasonably priced, and, as all of us with experience with 122 wagons know, they are long-lived and maintenance-free. They're also not dangerous, as the torsion bars are.

 

[Ron Kwas]

dct;

I hardly call redesigning the system, and adding a new, costly (I wouldn't call $125 reasonable!) component a "perfect solution"...did you also change to Miata seats under the same premise? Those torsion bars are neither awful (mine worked well for going on 20 years before they relaxed, and they were typically in the first preload position when vehicles were delivered from the factory, so can often be set to the second position [the right tool is all one needs], so will probably work fine after that to outlive us all), nor are they dangerous...they are just as dangerous as a huge, scary knife or an even scarier loaded gun on the table...if you don't touch them, you can be quite certain that they wont go for you throat all by themselves!

Here is picture of the SVO2572 in question...maybe someone can procure or fabricate one (for under $125!), and bring it along to the next Volvo Meet and offer torsion spring repositioning services: http://www.sw-em.com/svo2572_trunklid_torsionbar_tool.jpg

Cheers

 

[tiblu]

VOL2572 details and spring installion notes

Thanks to information on this board, I was able to install the springs with ease after creating a replica of the VOL2572 special tool. It took 1 hour to make the tool and 5 minutes to install the springs. I tried 2 hours to install it without the tool, could not get it done. I'll contribute the photos of the tool with measurements so that it's easier for the the next person to replicate.

I replicated only one end of the tool, cause you can use a regular pry bar to do the job of the other end.

How I installed the springs:

• Install 1 hinge to the body
• Put the springs through the attached spring
• Put other ends of the springs through the second hinge and attach it to the body.
• Put the "U" shaped ends of the springs in the correct positions in the hinges.
• Put a pry bar between middle of the trunk roof and the spring to pry the spring down. This will pull the "L" shaped end to the center. NOTE: I suggest you put a plywood board between the pry bar and the top of the trunk roof to spread the load. Not doing so may damage paint.
• Attach the VOL2572 to the "L" shaped end and start twisting it towards the catch. Don't worry about the lower catch, get it right from the top right first. After top is in, loosen the pry force in the middle of the spring and push the spring end to the lower catch with the VOL2572 still attached.
• DONE.

Pictures and measurements of the VOL2572 replica - https://drive.google.com/open?id=17NQfYHzscPlitDjnklrkV1dOjnQRsSAV

Other notes:

• For the purists, I suggest you install the springs before it goes for primer and paint, because there is no way to get away without some paint damage when installing the springs.

Thanks again to all the members of this thread for the info to get it done!

 

[Ron Kwas]

tiblu;

Great!...and thanks for follow up posting and info...I need to revisit this project...I request permission to possibly repost your picture on SW-EM site (with attribution of course!)...

Cheers to Estonia!

 

[tiblu]

Feel free to repost, just provide a link to the post in this thread.

 

[tsores]

I went with the Sodeman spring and glad I did. I think it is a reasonably priced mod and it works. I never give a thought to the droopy deck lid anymore. It opens and stays open as a modern car.