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Hello all more knowledgeable than I:

In putting my B20 back to spec, I've acquired a aluminum intake manifold from Agent strangelove (Thanks Chris!). The previous owner installed a Weber that I've struggled to jet including purchasing a jet kit. (for sale if you want it)

I'm going back to SU's that I understand much more. Anyone have any advice on the switch? Phil S. has given me some advice on making half moon washers for the flange differences in the intake and exhaust manifold so am looking forward to trying that. My concern is the inability to warm the car up. I live at 7,000feet and it's fairly cool here yet I currently have a cannon aluminum manifold on my weber and it warms up for daily driver use? Is there any reason to believe I'd be unhappy with a aluminum intake manifold? In the summer it's warm here, often as high as 90 degrees F. Winter snow and single digits.

Anyone ever purchased a rubber floor floor for their Amazon? I've seen them for sale at VIP and others for around $350. Is it as easy as laying in the car or is there more too it? Are there some that are better quality than others? Any recommendations? My car is also missing the side kick boards and firewall cardboard. Does the rubber floor mat go on first with the kick panels last?
Thoughts?

Thanks for any input you have!

Mark
 

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I don't think you'll have any problems with that manifold due to low temperatures. It does sit directly above the exhaust manifold, after all.

The VP floor mats are made with the original Volvo molds, so they are entirely "correct." You do have to trim the edges, cut slots for the seat mounts, the hole for the shifter, etc. Whatever machine(s) Volvo used for that apparently no longer exists. A utility knife works well.
 

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I don't remember there ever being any firewall cardboard, just the horsehair mat that makes a terrible mess when it gets old. I'd look into more modern sound dampening products for the firewall.

As for the kick panels, they were just thin cardboard with a textured paint on them. I'd cut some carpet or textured plastic sheet to fit in place and go with that. Or do a thin board of Masonite and wrap it in vinyl if you want the real original look.
 

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I ran an aluminum intake on the B18 in sub zero many times. Just let it warm up a few minutes before you drive. I've got the cast iron 67 manifold on the new B20 and it's the same thing. Take off without a little warm up and you're pulling the choke out or it stumbles. Once it warms up a little no problems.
 

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The entire country of Sweden ran aluminum intakes on B18's for years, and still do. I think it's a minor impediment. :)
 

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If your primary concern is cold weather drivability, give some consideration to the air filter arrangement as used on the B20B in the 140 series with the exhaust manifold air preheater. Pre heating the air in the winter will improve fuel atomization / drivability and fuel economy. Pre heating the air will also result in lower peak hp because of the reduced volumetric efficiency of the engine; however, that is usually less of an issue in winter driving. One of the problems with the pre heating arrangement is that the thermostatic control element eventually tends to stick one way or the other, the end result being that you may have to select from always preheated or always ambient air temp.

Just a thought. I have no idea whether you could get the large 140 air box from the B20B to fit in the confines of the Amazon engine compartment.
 

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The last of the Amazons (69 and 70, with B20) used on airbox. Whether they used the same one as the 140, I don't know--although, knowing Volvo, I suspect that they did.

If you can't find one in the US, you might want to apply your sleuthing abilities to looking on tradera.se, blocket.se, and even ebay.co.uk.
 

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Note that the airbox used with Stromberg carbs does not bolt up to SUs, although it can be modified to work. If carb icing is the concern, you probably don't want to draw air in from outside the engine bay.
 

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I used the kickboard panels from VP. They come in either grey or black. I recommend using them as they are pretty easy to install and look good. I put mine in after my carpet addition, that way they can be replaced without pulling up flooring.

For the firewall, I believe the original 'horse hair' backed carpet was more for heat reduction than sound. I am still planning on doing something on my '66 122S to block the radiant heat from the warm firewall, but probably not that approach; I agree the horse hair is kind of messy over time.
 
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