I am looking at a couple different system configs for my R.<p>system 1:<p>JL 1000/1 amp<br>JL 300/2 amp<br>JL 300/4 amp<br>(2) JL 10w7 subs<p>system 2:<p>alpine pdx 1.1000 amp<br>alpine pdx 4.150<br>alpine pdx 2.150<br>(2)alpine R subs
I have the Alpine Amps but 1x100 (sub) and 4x100 (front back, etc). The only thing I don't like about the alpine amps is the speaker pop when powered up. This only occurs if I leave my stereo "on" when turning the ignition off and on again. Alpines are infamous for the pop, according to the installer. <p>Also, if you are using the factory head, I would suggest getting a digital equalizer that intergrates into the factory wiring. You'll have a lot more range of adjustments to play around with.<p>All-in-all the amps add better sound, but if I were to do it again, I wouldn't have purchased the amps. The factory system is pertty good. Honeslty, I should have spent the money on something more practical...in other words I should have listened to my wife. <p>Oh'well, live an learn.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>UNO_RACING</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the Alpine Amps but 1x100 (sub) and 4x100 (front back, etc). The only thing I don't like about the alpine amps is the speaker pop when powered up. This only occurs if I leave my stereo "on" when turning the ignition off and on again. Alpines are infamous for the pop, according to the installer.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>This isn't an "Alpine" problem, it is an installation problem. An inexpensive delay in the right place will take care of it.<p><A HREF="http://www.davidnavone.com/amp.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.davidnavone.com/amp.html</A>
If you're using the OE head unit and the "remote" wire it provides for turn on, the pop is most likely the result of that remote wire connection. The remote wire doesn't turn off when the radio is turned off, rather it turns off when the key is off. Try disconnecting the inputs to the amplifier and check for a pop. If there is no pop, then measure the outputs from the radio to see if there is a pop when it turns on or off--look for DC. If the answer to that is no, then measure the DC voltage from each of the radio's output leads to chassis. IF you find 6V DC onmeach (when measured to chassis), that's probably the source difficulty when using aftermarket amplifiers which don't usually have a true differential input.<p>If all of that is the case, some small capacitors (10uF electrolytic) in each of the radio's output wires will probably fix the problem.
decided to go with JL. Here is a link to the setup. The pics suck but will give you an idea at least.<p><A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=57556" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=57556</A>