SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi to all, i have a couple of problems for which I didn't want to create 5/6 posts, and as they may be related one to each other, each one is in the same post.

Car is a V50 T5 AWD 2005 with 205 000 km (roughly 130 000 mi).

Reminder: because of a blown gasket, head has been shaved and new gasket, bolts, belts etc, Engine is going strong after 3000 miles.

Noises from the front

Some facts before going on:

  • front control/a-arms/ball joints/bushings are new
  • new drops links
  • new front strut top mounts (may be badly installed?)
  • new passenger side engine mount
  • new front bearings hubs
  • new rotors and pads
  • wheels are true and balanced (I had the Midirs done)
  • OEM original torque mount
  • OEM original driver side engine mount
  • OEM original shafts

I get the following noises :

  • a crunchy sound when releasing brake pedal (braking is strong, even and smooth I might add)
  • a thud on departure and getting to rest (I know this is often loose ball joints fasteners, but I cant get them tighter and they seem flush)
  • a little vibration when accelerating, goes out at about 20mph
  • a crunchy sound when turning wheels while steady/still (I know this is top mounts, but they are new!!)
  • a thud/thud sound going over bumps

Could it be:
  • driver side engine mount?
  • torque mount?
  • your idea?


Noises from the back

Some facts before going on: I broke a strut mount on the rear driver side, thanks to our immaculate road conditions. Immediately after the hit, the clunky sound appeared.

A quick inspection revealed that the upper mount was broken in two. Replaced it with an Volvo one. Noise is stil there.

I get the following noise:

- a clunky sound (kinda like plastic hitting somewhere inside the car) when going over bumps, which means constantly - i.e Midirs + bad road conditions = watch your teeth!

I removed the trunk trim to gain access to the cavity under the rear driver side belt assembly, where the noise seems to originate. Cant seem anything loose. Anyway there is nothing in there. I can see the two strut mount bolts and the bolt for securing the seat clincher.

Everything on the rear suspension seems to be original parts, so they all have 200 000 km. But the noise wasn't there before the upper mount disintegration.

Could it be:
  • broken spring (what are the symptoms of this)?
  • badly installed strut mounts over the strut?
  • any idea?


Thanks, this is really irritating.


Cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,542 Posts
On the front... By now the motor mounts are likely going bad. If they are, it can put more stress on the CV joints. Tie rod ends? Did you have to drop the sub frame? If so, are the bolts torqued properly? Sub frame bushings?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
By now the motor mounts are likely going bad.
The passenger side is new from last March.
I have a new e-focus torque mount handy but the actual one is kinda rusty.
Leave the driver side - how much of work does it involve?

Tie rod ends?
New tie rods, and all is tight.

Did you have to drop the sub frame?
Havent touch the subframe. So after 16 years, should be seized and immobilized in rust!!!!

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
332 Posts
Re: vibration on accel, if you've already done the engine mounts, maybe the harmonic balancer isn't happy? Though I don't think that's all too likely at your mileage. The driver side mount could transmit some vibration if it's bad - the job isn't too terrible. There's just more to undo and remove from the top end to get at the thing (battery, battery tray, etc).

The clunk over bumps and the way you describe it makes me think swaybar links. When they start knocking it tends to sound pretty hollow and "pop"-ey.

Crunching when turning could still be your strut mounts/bearings, even when new. I've had relatively poor luck with this, having bought and installed a set that made more noise than my worn old ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
467 Posts
Front:

Front struts can cause "thud" noises on jounce or rebound from internal play/wear.
Short of replacing them as a trial, when they are apart on the bench with the springs removed
you can check for play by quickly/firmly pulling up/pushing down the shaft.

The front strut rubber bottom stops/helper springs (the ones that hold the boots) can fit too tight on the shaft and cause a moaning/groaning noise when turning. There was an old TSB regarding early and late versions.

Rear:


Stabilizer bar end links can cause noises. There are two different types.
The ones that look similar to the fronts can develop play just like the fronts do. Pry up/down on the bar while observing.
The other type can appear okay but develop play inside the rubber bushings. Again pry up/down while observing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did you use cheap parts?
While not using top Volvo parts, some are and some not. But I try to stay away from cheap (usually Chinese) part.

Control arms - Moog
Links - Moog
Hubs/bearings - F.A.G.
Springs are original equipment (16 years)
Struts - dont remember but not top brand
Passenger engine mount - Volvo
Top mounts - Volvo.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
What about strut mounts in the front? I think I used Febi strut bearings and Sachs strut mounts. FCP showed a pic of the Sachs mount with the "Volvo" ground off of it, but mine didn't have that!

Did you get everything fastened securely?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did you get everything fastened securely?
I think so, but here is a picture of the left top mount, form which I think the noise is coming from, not easy to locate the source of a sound in a car.

Looks like the either it moved or it is loose, we can the shadow of the washer. Your thoughts?

How do we tighten this with the strut on the car??

Thanks!

Automotive tire Fluid Rim Plumbing fixture Automotive wheel system
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
Yeah, I don't know, I think that nut should be centered in the hole. Did you replace the strut mounts and bearings?

What's that rusted metal, I don't see that on my car? Mine has a strut brace, though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think that nut should be centered in the hole. Did you replace the strut mounts and bearings?
Yes, should be centered. Maybe its loose and that cause the noise. Will go buy a pass-thru socket. Thanks!

Rust? What rust? :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,542 Posts
Is that a new mount? It looks pretty grimy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Facusan

·
Registered
2007 S40 2.4i AW55-50 / 2007 C70 T5 AW55-50
Joined
·
684 Posts
By the looks of that picture, seems like that nut is loose. And yes, that should be centered.

Since your car has those strut spacers, they will make it a little more difficult to properly tighten that nut.

When I replaced the struts on mine. I was able to crack loose and torque them to spec in the car sitting on its wheels. Only using a socket

You can try with a deep socket. Hopefully it’ll work. Otherwise your best bet will be using a socket with a hex end like the one for spark plugs, a wrench and the torx through the socket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2007 S40 2.4i AW55-50 / 2007 C70 T5 AW55-50
Joined
·
684 Posts
Anything thats loose could be a source of noise


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
UPDATE

I managed to tighten them (nut on top of strut) a bit from the top using a deep 17mm socket (secured by ViseGrip) and a Torx bit inside of it, with the struts on the car.

Noise in the front is almost gone!!! Now before go and buy the right tool do torque properly, am I better unfastening the nut, remove it, apply red Loctite, and torqued?

Leaves me with the annoying high pitched knocking sound from the car driver side shock tower....

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
2007 S40 2.4i AW55-50 / 2007 C70 T5 AW55-50
Joined
·
684 Posts
Don’t use red loctite! You’ll regret it.

That nut is supposed to be a nyloc nut. For situations just like yours.

If the nylon part is worn, get new ones from a hardware store.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If the nylon part is worn, get new ones from a hardware store.
Hum,,, not sure I can get that from the hardware store in my area. Might as well order it from Volvo. What are the specs? M17 x 1.25?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,542 Posts
Hum,,, not sure I can get that from the hardware store in my area. Might as well order it from Volvo. What are the specs? M17 x 1.25?
If you can get another hut of the same thread, you can put them on top to lock it from tuning.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Facusan
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top