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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
Does the 2010 XC90 need the alarm battery changed? I am wondering if this affected this year of car.

Cheers
 

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I tried servicing the battery on my''09. It's doable, but mine still held a charge after 10+ years. It involves removing the alarm module and sawing it open carefully so it can be re-sealed. FCP has a YouTube on how to R&R it, I think. The lithium battery maintains a charge from the power source. It must be de-soldered from it's connection to the board. I found a replacement battery on line searching by the label info from the battery itself, but didn't pursue it because I had the thing off and I had the "Alarm System Needs Service" dash message I can't seem to find either the photos or link for the battery, at the moment.
 

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Cheers guys, I think I'll just wait till the battery dies.
Downside is that a great many of them puke corrosives onto the electronics. I think maybe I'll escalate replacing the battery as long as it is OK. 12 years, almost!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Downside is that a great many of them puke corrosives onto the electronics. I think maybe I'll escalate replacing the battery as long as it is OK. 12 years, almost!
Anyone got a good link on ebay or similar for the battery? I want to have it on hand before I Cut into the alarm box haha!
 

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Found one HERE.
Nice thing is it has the PN's on it, so they can be accessed elsewhere. AliBaba has those and others.
1617802604160.png

Brand: FMA
PN: FH330-2652C6ST2P
Type NiMH
 

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I see you're in Australia, so maybe this AliExpress link will work for you.
Googled "FMA FH330-2652C6ST2P battery"
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cheers I've ordered the ebay one.

I'll have to get the anti-theft bolt and rivets from FCP first.
What a process to change the battery haha!
Luckily no rust here, but still weary of removing the alarm module.
 

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When I had mine out, I didn't bother with restoring the extreme anti-tamper methods. Just getting at the thing with cutting or drilling the arch liner rivets to get access is enough deterrent. I just used stainless cap screws that I had on hand to remount it.
You might work out methods and materials for dealing with the rivets for the wheel arch liner. Drilling the rivets has it's own perils, like veering off center and enlarging the plastic fastener mounting areas. Not to mention that when drilling pop-rivets, they often just spin when the bit catches them.
Also in that area is the washer bottle and pump, so if you have issues with them, you'll have access.
 
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