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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought my first Volvo.I've been looking for a while and finally found the one I want pretty close to home. It's a silver 1993 240 wagon auto with 153k on the clock. Everything except the radio is stock.
It has the normal list of ailments: ass-end clunking over bumps, some body roll, leaking valve cover and oil filler gaskets, suns spotted paint, pulsing and noisy brakes, small balance vibe at highway speeds, occasional whine from the a/c blower, sketchy service records...
But, the body is straight, no rust on body or exhaust, everything works, very decent interior and stereo, very good tread on el cheapo Guardsman tires, all for $1800.

So, I bought a big box of service parts from ipd and tuned it up today.
WTF is the deal with installing the air cleaner element. It took half an hour and still doesn't look right. Am I missing something?
Also, which bushings should I look at for the bouncing/bottoming out rear clunk? Do the springs wear out on these cars?
 

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Unless the filter you bought is wrong, which I doubt, just keep playing with it. It took me a few minutes to figure out as well, haha. As for the rear end clunks, there are a lot of bushings that may be worn/rotten/non-existent. You'll find the trailing arms, torque rods, and panhard bar all have bushings. Crawl under there and inspect everything. I replaced my torque rods with these adjustables from iPD http://www.ipdusa.com/products/4918/109772-adjustable-torque-rods-200-series-models. My trailing arm bushes were replaced by the previous owner, all that's left is for me to tackle the panhard bar. You can find OEM or polyurethane replacements for most if not all of these bushings.

As far as parts and online shopping go, these places are my favorite:
http://www.ipdusa.com/
http://www.fcpgroton.com/index-exec...l-by_year/by_make/78/by_model/1116/by_year/40
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volvo

Also, a Bentley manual is a must if you work on your Volvo: http://www.germanautoparts.com/Books/Volvo/240

If/when you have other questions, first do a search (please, even on google!), then post here and ask. PM me if you need to as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I think the filter is correct as I bought it for my vehicle at ipd. It's a Mahler lx 59. It just won't seem to allow the housing halves to seat well with the filter between them.
 

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Though the depth/detail of your original post seems to preclude the possibility, it has happened to us all that we attempt to install something incorrectly. Perhaps you've got the filter in backwards? No offence intended.

Sounds like you've got a good one. Is it an L-block or a K-block engine (stamped under intake 2-3 on the block and on the bar-code on the t-belt cover)? L-blocks are wonderful.

Yeah, I think the filter is correct as I bought it for my vehicle at ipd. It's a Mahler lx 59. It just won't seem to allow the housing halves to seat well with the filter between them.
 

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Welcome to Swedespeed, Jon.

Nice 245 - AC work?

Before you exhaust another credit card, play around on the www (if not already) to get an idea of the unbelievable wealth of information on the Volvo 240.

Re the engine air filter - compare the new one to the old one and if that is not possible visit a parts store with the new filter in hand.

Does the fresh air box on your '93 appear to have been modified?

George Dill

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...=any&safe=images&tbs=&as_filetype=&as_rights=

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...=any&safe=images&tbs=&as_filetype=&as_rights=

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...=any&safe=images&tbs=&as_filetype=&as_rights=
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The pleated side is forward (towards grill) and the mesh side faces aft. Just a real booger to get right for some reason. Idk,will wrestle with it more when time permits. For now its in place and clipped tight but the housing halves are not flush. Aft half will not go down far enough into the lower mounts. Checked the mounts and they are clear.

Looks like an L block! I couldn't see anything under the intake but freeze plugs, some sensor, and peeling red paint. The timing belt cover has an L on it though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
A/C is running well but it does tax that 2.3, especially on hills.
No, the air box looks stock. I was thinking that the original air filter the car had when I got it was wrong, because after I checked it, same fight with reinstall. So, I got some from ipd, same results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the links George, especially the air box thread. It's pouring here but I will find and loosen that amm? hose if it stops soon.
 

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Check the thermostat for the warm air hose door. If it is stuck in the warm (open) position the heat from the hose will eventually cook your MAF. If the thermostat is toast you'll need a new one, or better yet junk it and block the door in the closed position as the warm air on start-up isn't critical for cold starts. I have two 244s, and '88 and '89 with no warm air hoses and have never had a problem with cold start and I live in Eastern Ontario where we get some wicked cold periods.

Oh yeah, the air filter. The best way is to first remove the intake hose between the filter housing and the MAF (it's rubber so it's easily removed), shoot some penetrating oil on the filter housing clips and work them until they move easily, then keep them oiled for future use. With the clips opened, pull on the top of the rear part of the housing then pull it up and pull out the old filter. Installation is the reverse except that you have to wiggle the rear part of the housing a bit to get a good contact with the back side of the filter. After a few filter changes you'll be able to do this job lickety-split. ;)

And another thought: do you know when the timing belt was last replaced? If not, do it now, and with all that out at the same time, it's a good idea to replace the timing belt idler and the coolant pump (HEPU brand strongly preferred).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Roger that, will check the warm air door. I'm planning to do the throttle body cleaning and now have the gasket on hand to do it so that's next. I am out of town for a day and didn't have a chance to look at the filter last night.
Supposedly the timing belt was done 50k ago. I got the timing belt kit and a water pump from ipd in my big box of parts last week.
It's on the list of STD, which is long. I also have a 63' Ragtop Beetle, a built 92' Jeep Wrangler and an 03 SV1000s. They all run and and are legal. Oh, and I live in a house that's about 70 years old.
I'm thinking about getting a new idler and tensioner pulley first though before I open it up to do the timing belt.
 

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I'm guessing that your 50k is miles (as opposed to the silly French system we've been stuck with in Canada), so the timing belt is just about due. As for the rest, for a first time brick owner you seem to have stuff covered, so congrats on that. I have a few other suppliers on my lap top and I'll send them to you when I get a bit of time to transfer them to our PC. The only other thing I should mention right now is that, for critical parts, I suggest you stick to OE or OEM parts, and as the saying goes "don't ask me how I know." :rolleyes: ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks form the info gents.
I think that I should have about six hours to work on it Thursday morning and I will either do the pump and timing belt or check the valve lash, or both.
 
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