SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After my research here are my options. Option 2 is what needs done for everything to be copacetic. The front left strut is crap (apparently rusted out at the top?) and the front right is on its way out, so I need to replace both of them.

Option 1 is me replacing only the front left and the computer plus Volvo SUM alignment (using the computer to control suspension). $943.12

Option 2 is the same but doing both struts. $1281.32

Option 3 is doing a complete rebuild/upgrade of everything. This includes need Upper Strut Mount Bearings (only thing I havent replaced in there haha), and new springs (Eibach lowering springs ~1.3 inch drop), and Front and Rear Camber adjustment kits (because of the lowering springs). If I did this I would also want to probably roll the fender's as well to prevent any possible tire-rubbing….not sure this would be an issue. This might also allow me to put thinner steering stops on and allow the wheels to turn more.

$1931.63


I built in $100 of Unknown/Unplanned into each of the 3 DIY options because you have to assume there is some tool/labor I am not accounting for…..

Option 4 is the butt raping that Volvo recommended to only fix half the problem (one strut is on the way out why would you not replace it)

$1959.70
http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
ohhh yeah and this is not including if i wanted to replace the rear shocks while i was at it.........this R is a GD money pit i tell you
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,526 Posts
Re: Ahhh research after pulling my pants up from a visit to Volvo (ClemsonS60R)

Yikes! Those are some nasty numbers.

How many miles do you have on your car?

I know it's been asked before, but do you know how much of the cost is labor vs. parts?

And, generally for the board, how much of this is DIY for your average shadetree mechanic? I've rebuilt suspensions before but never one as complex as the Rs (given the 4C). I'm assuming you'd need VIDA to complete the work but can't some of this be done at home to avoid some of the labor? Or, is the cost of labor nothing compared to the price of the parts?

-Eric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,964 Posts
Re: Ahhh research after pulling my pants up from a visit to Volvo (Sue Esponte)

I'd go with option # 1. You can always do all the rest later. VIDA is needed for the re-sum when its all done no matter what your choice is.

What you're asking for is a very subjective opinion. Do you want to drop the car now, or later, or never? If you're going to drop the car, now is the time to consider it. New springs = new spring seats. I'd get the front pair from IPD (the HD ones) and the rear pair is plain old R replacement versions. Do you have IPD track-spec sways? Now is the time! You will have to roll the fenders on all 4 wheel wells if you lower the car.

Alternative 4 is this: Replace left strut & upper spring seat; do nothing else. Install F&R sways (no lowering). Resum.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,526 Posts
Re: Ahhh research after pulling my pants up from a visit to Volvo (Short Circuit)

Quote, originally posted by Short Circuit »
You will have to roll the fenders on all 4 wheel wells if you lower the car.

Why? I've got TMEs on my '05 and no problems with rubbing at all. I think it all depends on how aggressive the springs are, the wheels/tires you're running and whether or not you've got spacers.

Just my $.02,

-Eric

P.S. I didn't realize when he wrote "me" doing the struts...he meant himself doing the labor. $900 for a strut, huh...geez...that sucks.

Modified by Sue Esponte at 11:03 AM 4-27-2009
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,340 Posts
Re: Ahhh research after pulling my pants up from a visit to Volvo (Short Circuit)

Are you trying to tell us through a lot of verbiage that Volvo wants to charge $1,900 to replace ONE strut? (Option 4)

Am I reading that right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Ahhh research after pulling my pants up from a visit to Volvo (Sue Esponte)

Quote, originally posted by Sue Esponte »
Yikes! Those are some nasty numbers.

How many miles do you have on your car?

I know it's been asked before, but do you know how much of the cost is labor vs. parts?

And, generally for the board, how much of this is DIY for your average shadetree mechanic? I've rebuilt suspensions before but never one as complex as the Rs (given the 4C). I'm assuming you'd need VIDA to complete the work but can't some of this be done at home to avoid some of the labor? Or, is the cost of labor nothing compared to the price of the parts?

-Eric

Labor is 5.5 hours @ $125/hr


the R suspension is NOT complex the 4C merely adds a cable coming out of the bottom of the strut/shock that you have to disconnect.

Their quote is factoring in a new SUM module as well because apparently mine is blown.

You need VIDA to do the SUM adjustment after the install of all other parts.

The car has 86,000 miles....I got it at 55k i think. This thing has been nothing but a money pit for me (luckily it is paid off now at least).

I have spent $750 on replacing angle gear (my share from ****ty 3rd party warranty, but at least the warranty DID pay for itself already)
replaced: all 4 endlinks to IPD HD, all 4 front control arm bushings to XC90 spec, both front ball joints, both front spring seats, lower tranny mount to QBM spec, front engine mount to IPD Blue Spec
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,526 Posts
Re: Ahhh research after pulling my pants up from a visit to Volvo (ClemsonS60R)

Quote, originally posted by ClemsonS60R »
the R suspension is NOT complex the 4C merely adds a cable coming out of the bottom of the strut/shock that you have to disconnect.

That's good to know...but it still sucks that they're trying to ream you for 2 grand for the whole deal!

I guess the upside is that it's mostly a DIY job. The downside is that you still get screwed for the cost of parts...BIG TIME!

-Eric

P.S. FWIW, I'd go option #1...but I've already lowered my car. If you're going to lower it, then I agree...do it now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yeah and thats getting parts through Tascavolvoparts.com and IPD. for almost 40% less on the struts and $200 off on the SUM module !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Re: (ClemsonS60R)

option #2 .Why play around with it; there both crap by now so replace both and be done with it. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
But it is quite the hit to the pocketbook.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i wish i knew what was wrong with the SUM....i have "chassis service setting required message" and i figured one of my two front struts was out....so i wasnt surprised that the left was and the right is on its way to tell you the truth...

Is volvo just trying to reem an extra $600 out of me for the SUM module (not that id do it with them neway) but i mean how does the SUM module stop working....its inside the car?

I understand how the components themselves (ie shocks/struts) can wear out by how would the control module...the service writer told me when they ran the codes thats how they knew the module wasnt working?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
587 Posts
Re: (ClemsonS60R)

Quote, originally posted by ClemsonS60R »
yeah and thats getting parts through Tascavolvoparts.com and IPD. for almost 40% less on the struts and $200 off on the SUM module !!!

http://********************/smile/emthup.gif That's the cheapest route to go. Buy what's needed through Tasca Volvo & have an INDEPENDENT mechanic who is Volvo-competent do the repairs. Generally you save big $$ on parts and most mechanics do not charge the exorbitant labor assessed by most Volvo dealers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: (scootss60)

Quote, originally posted by scootss60 »


http://********************/smile/emthup.gif That's the cheapest route to go. Buy what's needed through Tasca Volvo & have an INDEPENDENT mechanic who is Volvo-competent do the repairs. Generally you save big $$ on parts and most mechanics do not charge the exorbitant labor assessed by most Volvo dealers.

I will be doing all of the labor myself other than the alignment and SUM alignment/reset
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,340 Posts
Re: (ClemsonS60R)

Quote, originally posted by ClemsonS60R »
i wish i knew what was wrong with the SUM....i have "chassis service setting required message" and i figured one of my two front struts was out....so i wasnt surprised that the left was and the right is on its way to tell you the truth...

Is volvo just trying to reem an extra $600 out of me for the SUM module (not that id do it with them neway) but i mean how does the SUM module stop working....its inside the car?

I understand how the components themselves (ie shocks/struts) can wear out by how would the control module...the service writer told me when they ran the codes thats how they knew the module wasnt working?

The only way to know is to run the codes. The errors most certainly will be different for one vs. the other.

They really don't go bad that often, unless you have had water intrusion. If you are doing it yourself, I would start with the struts and go from there. The SUM is inside the cabin tucked up into the center console, so you can remove / replace completely independantly of the actual struts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: (craina)

Aftermarket warranties don't cover struts (they are considered wear/tear items) http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: (Needsdecaf)

Quote, originally posted by Needsdecaf »


They really don't go bad that often, unless you have had water intrusion. If you are doing it yourself, I would start with the struts and go from there. The SUM is inside the cabin tucked up into the center console, so you can remove / replace completely independantly of the actual struts.

That was my thoughts and i have never had water intrusion. removing the SUM module for my option 3 rebuild brings the price down to $1489.91


This still does not consider rear shocks though....which would be another $750 or $969
if i need to replace the shock mounts (would you need to replace the shock mounts) and also how likely/much mileage do the rear shocks get before they need replaced?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,526 Posts
Re: (ClemsonS60R)

When I talked to Rob at Rawbear Performance he said the shock mounts were notorious for failure. This is like 3+yrs ago though so I don't recall if he meant at all 4 corners, just the fronts or backs. He replaced mine (which had less than 20K on them) and said that, while I didn't completely NEED new ones, they were already showing significant wear.

Unless you're just dying to replace the rear shocks though...why would you replace them if they haven't gone bad? Then again, I guess at 86K miles...they're bound to go soon. But, why not wait until they do?

-Eric
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top