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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read a few threads already about the demise of Volvo branded batteries (whether or not software updates have been done/or needed) etc. FCPEuro used to stock Odyssey batteries but they are out of stock/on back order. Amazon has them, 48-720 is what the part number suggests but on Odyssey's website they dont list one.

I was reading on other forums how AGM's dont have the CCA that lead acid batteries do, but they can handle being discharged longer or something to that effect? I'm assuming the stock Volvo battery is lead-acid. I had to jump mine last night and the wife is worried today that she will be stuck at work ( she has cables though). It's unusually cold here in TN right now, just above 20F outside. I have a somewhat effective smart charger I bought years ago, and I charged the battery until it said complete, and then ran the charger on "Battery Reconditioning" all night until this morning. The XC60 started in the garage just fine but it was about 60F in the garage.

I can get a pretty good deal through advance auto with my work discount. I bought an AGM Autocraft Platinum battery for my Saab wagon, but I dont think the Saab is as electrically intensive as the Volvo. The "gold" battery has the same warranty and is cheaper. I'm not one to put ordinarily cheap stuff in the Volvo, but I am curious to what other owners are using and in what climates?
 

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My understanding is that XC60s with the Start/Stop function require an AGM battery with 760 CCA. Models without the Start/Stop function are spec’d for a standard lead acid battery between 520-800 CCA. A document on Volvo batteries states “If you often listen to the radio with the engine off, have a lot of extra entertainment equipment or use the engine heater often, then Volvo would recommend to purchase an AGM battery.” Given this, I would think an AGM battery would be recommended by Volvo for any of the low battery charge issues reported. In my case, the dealer did NOT take the opportunity to recommend an AGM.

Does anyone know the price difference between Volvo’s AGM and lead acid battery? Has anyone made the switch and can you report any improvement?
 

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I wish there was one answer to this. AGM should be a better choice for any vehicle with the battery in engine compartment due to their sealed construction. The reason I will not say it is THE answer is that there seems to be variability in quality of AGM batteries from the same brand. This same variability affects longevity of conventional liquid lead-acid batteries. The largest battery with highest cranking amps is ALWAYS a good choice whether AGM or regular. XC60 can hold H7 size battery if that is not what is already there.. Volvo XC60 is not a battery killing vehicle with the exception of the satellite radio module (RDAR) if it has not been addressed. You did not tell us which XC60 and what year model it is. ALL networked cars with delay lamps and powering up of multiple systems just by opening the door to retrieve something is a widespread issue. I hate that my 2015 F350 turn on park lamps every time you breath near it and keeps stuff on for minutes after you leave unless you lock it. It needed two batteries (diesel with two big batteries) when it got 37 months old. Funny how that happened 3 weeks out of it 36 month warranty. I have a shop and I can't tell you there is a best battery. my seat of the pants feeling is right now East Penn/Deka batteries are doing better than Johnson Controls batteries. East Penn are sold by Sam's club and others under Duracell Labeling. I think O'Reilly's batteries are East Penn now. Interstate and many other store brands (WalMart at last check) are Johnson Controls. Volvo US batteries as well as a lot of other brands use Interstate Batteries as dealer replacements likely due to the inventory and freshness control they offer just like they do to shops that sell their batteries. What will make your battery go to its maximum lifespan is to charge it gently twice per year and any time you know it to get a discharge like broken alternator belt or leaving key on and forgetting it. Charging system on a vehicle generally will recharge the normal drain from starting car but throttle back charge to avoid heating battery and causing it to lose water. The charging system on the car has no way to do a deep charge without it also being too much current. A 4 to 6 amp charger (less for motorcycle and other smaller battery devices) is all that is needed. Charge it for 36 to 48 hours. Batteries go bad in a downward stair step progression. Periodic maintenance charge will take the battery a few steps back up from what the alternator on car is designed to do. small capacity chargers like that will have low amperage but can push it at 14+ volt and not get the battery hot or stressed.
 

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I think RDAR issues are resolved on 2014 models from production. It was a software fix. Cars not subscribed could have RDAR making contact attempts with XM/SIRIUS servers via satellite repeatedly while car was off. This awakened network and caused current drain. The software and changes on provider's end stopped the system from doing contact attempts unless engine is running and decreased the frequency of those attempts even then. Subscribed vehicles have subscription verification contacts done on some schedule but when not subscribed the script had errors and did too often.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Replaced it with a Napa Legend battery. Got a 20% discount at Napa for being AAA member (for November). Same CCA's but slightly smaller case in length. Same height. $125 out the door. Only issue I ran into is my DDM and PDM came up faulty. I erased codes but they came back. On VIDA there is "erase codes" and "erase PDM" and I am not sure what PDM means other than possibly Passenger door module. However, the windows still work from the drivers door module, just not the auto up or down feature. The LED's started going out one by one over the last year but didnt affect the auto function. Not sure where to go here...
 

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roll the windows up, release the switches and then hold them in the up position for over 5 seconds. The window setup memory is lost with battery disconnect. DO this for rear windows too.
 
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