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Because moving the ground point won't change the circuit reisitance enough. For example if you were to ground the headlight to the chassis right behind the headlight and the wiper motor right behind the tail light you might change the wiper circuitry resistance by about .1 Ohm which is not significant enough to protect it.
 

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OK

OK - I understand the basic's - as I have fixed : Washers / Dryers and TV's since I was a Kid , and have seen others Add Heat Sinks for more Cooling - It sounds like Cooling
isn't going to Help this Wiper Motors - Out Parameter Chip , and I don't see anything about a Higher Rated : LIN transceiver ( Cycling Chip ) ?__?

1. A BOW is what and does what ?

2. Lin Transceiver does what , and Cycling Chip ( Means ) ON/Off or ?____?

Us Newbie's :cool:
 

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A BOW or KBOWE is basically and electronic filter, filtering out the PWM voltage into pure DC Voltage with little to no ripple.

A LIN Transceiver is a protocal translator (Local Interconnect Network) basically coverting 1s and 0s into highs and lows. An example would be you turn on the windshield wipers in a LIN car on and the stalk sends out a 1 on the LIN network to the WWM this 1 is converted to a high by the LIN transceiver in WWM to start the motor.

The advantage to using networks is all the wiring is carrying is data an not voltage (less power consumption and less problems in the event of a wiring problem) bascially reducing power requirements and reducing potential faults for an in theory increase in reliability and allowing more creature comforts with the same power while reducing the amount of wiring and weight. When designed properly this is the ultimate in reliability under current tech, the Military has gone mostly the way of networks via fiber for all of its new systems, no more running massive voltage/current down long and bulky wiring runs, everything gets converted to digital and sent via fiber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
05 V50...55W HID kit from DDM tuning. DRL disabled....it has been 5 months now and no BOW and my wipers still work.... :p
Thanks, added!
 

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I'm trying to get some data together on HID installs in the C30/S40/V50/C70 chassis, and if you have installed an HID kit (sorry, factory bi-xenon's don't count) I would appreciate your help!

Three questions:
(1) When you installed the kit (approximately, like a year ago, a month ago, etc...)
(2) If the kit is 35w or 55w (if you're not sure it's probably 35w), and the brand if you remember.
(3) If you are running a battery harness, BOW eliminator, DRL disable etc... and is the "Low beam failure" message still displayed.

Also, if you have had to replace your wiper motor (WMM) after installing your HID kit, (a) how long after and (b) how many times it has been replaced would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Edit: BTW data is here in-case anyone is curious: http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/p1hid.xls
You HID guys are gonna like this one- To this day I still don't know what happened but here's the short version.

installed a kit from SharpHID 55watt with KBOWE3's for my lowbeams about 6 months ago. Worked OK for a couple weeks, occasionally one of the bulbs would not ignite, but the problem was intermittent. Figured "Ok, I can live with this" Eventually, I'm on my way home and I got a dash message saying something about "anti skid service required" and "immobilizer". Pulled over, Tried turning the car off, and back on to reset the error. Car would not start. Windshield wipers started bugging out even while they were in the off position. Had the car towed to the dealer, long story short they replaced the power steering pump (of all things) and now all is well. Needless to say I took the kit out, and I'm back to my stock halogens.

Anyone have any clue as to why the HID kit would affect the power steering pump? I'd love to know
 

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So I got a 35w 8000k of eBay. No bow and drl's still on lights are weaker then my halogens but I'm sure it's cus there from ebay.

Had them on for about 6 months now constent low beam failure message and occasional passenger side light goes out.

Wipers still good. As of today I'm back to my halogens because I want a good hid kit and done right. And I'm making some headlights covers too so might not even need hid's. 8p
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
It doesn´t matter the brand of the HID or the quality they say their HID have.

You need an special HID made for this situation.

This problem happends to other cars too.

Check "Audi A3 wiper motor" and you will see how many people is suffring from the same problem.

The good thing is there is already an special HID for Audi A3 that probably will fit the Volvo S40.

For sure it won´t blow the wiper away since this HID have been working in many Audi since 3 years ago.

The only question is, since this HID is special made for the Audi A3 Headlight. Will they fit inside the headlight in the Volvo S40 ??
Woah there - it's a big jump from the Ford/Mazda/Volvo platform to the Audi/VW platform... That assumption is on extremely shaky ground, and the onus is on you to prove that the issues are comparable (which you haven't) before we should consider your solution. Is it the same motor? Is it the same wiring configuration? Do they have the same ground points? Do both platforms use PWM voltage regulation for factory halogen headlights? Are the PWM frequencies the same?

Supposing that all that is true (which I am not implying or suggesting), you're still wrong. The OE's do not use a "special HID" as you say in your similar rant http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...r-motor-failure-due-to-aftermarket-HIDs/page7 :

Working same way than the OEM HIDs from Audi. Audi is using OEM HIDs (xenon & Bixenon) since 2003 in the A3. Why they don´t blow away motors? Same thing.
Your logic is flawed. The issue is software, not the HID (ballast).

The cars which come with HIDs have different software loaded, which is why there are no wiper motor issues. The factory bi-xenon software does not PWM modulate the headlight supply line, thus no issue. The factory halogen software does, thus issues. You can read about it in my writeup: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?125561-Headlight-PWM-details

So no, don't listen to this guy, he's been all over the net plugging his brand.
 

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I probably should have posted my question here, but im a newb on this forum deal and i started a new thread. (starting to catch on with the lingo) :)
anyway my question is this...

We've all read about the PWM issue on the low beam circuit. but the fog light circuit doesn't have this problem
has anyone tried to swap the wires at the CEM to the low beams and the fog lights?
in theory you could have DRL fogs and low beams at the push of a button(foglight button)?

could this be a workaround (albeit a bit jimmy rigged) for those of us having issues with HID kits, if you also got the eurofoglight software update? or DRL's disabled?
 

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PS. After blowing my wiper motor I put a used one in and switched the HID's to the fog lights thinking it wouldnt do anything there b/c of the DRL issue talked about here. Well switched on my fog lights the other day and bam wipers went on. I will be taking my kit to the gun range with my 1911 and a box of 45's. should give me my $90 worth back in fun.
 

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PS. After blowing my wiper motor I put a used one in and switched the HID's to the fog lights thinking it wouldnt do anything there b/c of the DRL issue talked about here. Well switched on my fog lights the other day and bam wipers went on. I will be taking my kit to the gun range with my 1911 and a box of 45's. should give me my $90 worth back in fun.
Yea. Im thinking its something like the ballasts firing voltage back into the computer and screwing up the control module. I tried the same thing you did - switching my hid's over to the fog lights, and my electronics were still acting up. Luckily my car threw a couple codes for internal computer faults and the check engine light went on giving me the chance to take them out before they could do any real damage.
Sucks kuz i now am the proud owner of 3 hid kits that i cant use.
 

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update: 1 year and 3 months with 35w ballast installed and DRL's disabled - no BOW and no WPM failure. all is perfect.
 

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Here's what I've found on HIDs in those cars. The circuit that runs the headlights is a very low-voltage circuit. This is a problem happening on a lot of new cars, Kias included now. You need to install a relay to take the power for the headlights off the headlight circuit and wire directly to the battery. With the relay, the power source for the relay will be the headlight circuit.

I've blown at least 3 ballasts on each side before I figured this out. Put in the relays, have been good for about 3 months now, no problems (they were blowing every 2 weeks before the relays).
 

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Okay so after looking through countless of these topics and conversations, I think I have thought of a way to cost effectively install my HIDs without any worries about electrical issues, failures, or BOWs. I'm not the best at constructing circuits, and the closest dealer to me is 250 miles. This plus the $120 doesn't make it worth it. Now I could be completely wrong and overlooking something very easily so feel free to chime in and shoot me down if you see something.

Supplies:
DDM 55w Slim Ballast HID kit - $40
Battery Harness Kit - $10
about 10ft of 18g wire $3
6 wire taps and 6 female connectors - $5
Electrical tape - $2
Total: $60

First, disconnect the battery.
Disconnect the light connectors for low beams and fog lights.
Now tap into each low beam connector, pre plug, and run the wires down to the fogs.
Connect the newly ran wires from your low beams directly to the bulbs in the fog lights with connectors and seal the plug with electrical tape or something similar (I would use 55w fog light bulbs)
Now install the HID kit and Battery Harness like you would a normal set up. (grounded to the chasis)
The only thing left is to hook up the trigger for the battery harness relay, Tap into one of the fog light connectors, and run this directly to the trigger, connect with female connectors.

Now If all was to go as planned, my fogs would be on all the time (which doesn't bother me), running as the DRLs, I could turn them off with the parking light position if really needed. And no BOW would be displayed.
The HIDs would turn on and off with the fog light button, which is just as convenient as turning a switch.
There is no extra load placed on any stock wiring.
No need for a DRL disable, BOW harnesses, or KWOBE construction.
Everything could very easily be returned to stock.

Again this is just a thought I am yet to try it, but if no one can see any flaws in my thinking I will be giving it a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·

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Eff me. Jinxed myself.
Wwm fried.
F
F
F
F
F
F
Me
 

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Eff me. Jinxed myself.
Wwm fried.
F
F
F
F
F
F
Me
Theres a thread on how to fix it and not have to replace it.

My HIDs do not work anymore and I have made shadow's KBOWE and I even tried redoing it and still they don't work. I have even tried putting my OEM halogen bulbs back and they dont work either. At this point I have no low beams really and only my drivers one works occasionally. I run with my high beams. WTF do i do?
 
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