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Re: Aftermarket HID Data - If you have installed a kit read this (theshadow27)

1. 2.5 years ago purchased from SHARP HID
2. 35 W Kit
3. BOW eliminator required for low beam failure and to stay on.

Still going on strong and only once in a while will my passenger side light not turn on (usually on very wet days). I just flick the light switch to off and on and it's fine. I do have my DRLS disabled however before that the HIDs were fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Re: Aftermarket HID Data - If you have installed a kit read this (Kallvin22)

Thanks for the responses guys! The data sheet (see first post) has been updated.

Quote, originally posted by Kallvin22 »


1. 6 months ago
2. SharpHID DDM 35W and I also tried 55W
3. Used both attachments without any luck.

So neither the 55w or 35w kits worked? Do you have either installed, or did you take them all out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Re: (Guru)

Quote, originally posted by Guru »
Here goes nothing ...
Special thanks to Frenkie and Wrbics from the Czech Volvo forums for solving this one http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

That's all very cool, but I don't think it's a solution. You can replace the chip but that doesn't do anything to stop it from burning out again.

The solution is described in the "HID BOWE Info" link in my signature. Work is in progress on a commercial version of this DIY project that will not require modifications to the car's electrical system. More information on that product will be posted when it becomes available.

As a general FYI, the purpose of this thread is to help determine what kinds of HID kits need a product of this nature. The more data I can provide them, the less BS their marketing has to make up, and the easier it is for everyone to get their kits online - with the least time and cost. Keep em coming http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Im installing tonight! i'll let you all know how it goes!
 

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Re: Aftermarket HID Data - If you have installed a kit read this (theshadow27)

I found out today that my slim hids work without the bow-3's. hmmm... how about that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Re: Aftermarket HID Data - If you have installed a kit read this (Zarb)

Quote, originally posted by Zarb »
I found out today that my slim hids work without the bow-3's. hmmm... how about that.

IMO I would leave them in. Anything is better than nothing. The BOW 3 is not a bad product, it is just under-speced - it's like trying to fix a bullet hole with a touch-up pen. Bad things will happen with any HIDs hooked up without some sort of capacitor filter if DRLs have not been disabled.
 

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Re: Aftermarket HID Data - If you have installed a kit read this (theshadow27)

Quote, originally posted by theshadow27 »
Thanks for the responses guys! The data sheet (see first post) has been updated.

So neither the 55w or 35w kits worked? Do you have either installed, or did you take them all out?

Yep I basically bought every HID product from DDM tuning and Sharp HID and tried combinations for hours, I returned everything because it never worked, running aftermarket halogens now. They suck but I cant get anything else to work.
 

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Re: Aftermarket HID Data - If you have installed a kit read this (theshadow27)

1) mid-November 2009
2) 55W, DDM Slims from ddmtuning.com
3) Error Code Eliminator - 3, currently no messages

2 weeks after installation one light wouldn't start, but after changing how I started the car the problem went away. But I got an extra pair of error code eliminators from ddmtuning for free under warranty just in case. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

Interesting side note, when the driver's side light goes out I never get a bulb out warning. Whereas, when the passenger's side light goes out, I always get a warning.

Also, the light problems only seem to happen when the car is running. I can always get the lights to ignite when using the Home Safe Lighting feature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Re: Aftermarket HID Data - If you have installed a kit read this (ion)

Thanks, and BTW:
Quote, originally posted by ion »
Also, the light problems only seem to happen when the car is running. I can always get the lights to ignite when using the Home Safe Lighting feature.

This is absolutely expected.

When the car is running, the alternator is cranking out power and they system bus is above 13.5V, so the CEM uses PWM to bring the average voltage to the headlights down to 13.0V. The higher the battery is charged (it likes to stay around 13.5-14V at all times) the lower the duty cycle (how much "off" time the HIDs see) to keep the voltage at 13.0.

When the car is off, the alternator isn't spinning so you're just running on battery. Most likely the system bus drops below 13.5V. At this point the CEM is feeding the headlights near 100% duty cycle, and as it gets closer to 13.2V the duty cycle goes to 100%, which is pure DC voltage - what the HIDs expect.

Which makes for an interesting observation: Trouble with HIDs running off BOW-3's is a pretty good indication that you have a strong and health electrical system, alternator, and battery. If BOW-3's have been working for a while, especially with 55w HIDs, it might be worth looking into.
 

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Just installed SharpHID 35W 6000k hids yesterday. Now BOW and no canceller required. (05 t5 awd)

Started up fine. Who knows what'll happen
 

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They blew my WWM. Just saying for statistics lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
They blew my WWM. Just saying for statistics lol
Sorry bout that mate, though I'm pretty sure I said it was a bad idea.

The boys are hard at work at cranking out a prototype. I'll post up here when they've got it squared away.
 

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I am not sure about the brand but I got these:



and the WWM fried that same day I got them installed. I was using the BOW harness too. Will using OEM ballasts prevent the wmm from blowing?
 

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blew my WWM.
So i have no choice really but to switch back to halogens for now? If i leave my hids on, theyll blow my WWM again right?

Im getting it fixed tomorrow.
 

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@ Lando, Using OEM ballast won't remedy the problem as the ballasts are not the issue. The issue is caused because Halogen cars are run off of PWM voltage at the Headlights and stock Bi-Xenons are not, this current variation is what causes the lights not ot fire and the WWM to fail with the HID kits installed. The proper solution would be to re-wire the Halogen system like the stock Bi-Xenon is wired.
 

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Do u guys think i could fix the HID and WWM issue/relation by moving one of the ground wire to a different place so they arent both at the same place?

Would that work?
 
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