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Had DDM Balasts in my fogs. maybe 3 months.
Just had my wiper motor blow.
Has anyone else had this happen when putting it in their fogs? I thought this was a headlight only issue.
I can't belive you still trying to deal with this problem...
How many more wiper motors do you need to blow away before paying a little bit of attention?

I told you more than 1 year ago but nobody listen.
Some users here keep you all confuse & lost when this problem was solved already on 2008 in Audi forums.

Google a little bit and you will find that you are not the only ones in the world with this problem.
 

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So what's your solution, how does it work, in plain English to help this poor soul? This is SweedSpeed. A year ago is too old for anyone to remember. Plus anyone here is hands on so details matter greatly. Making someone feel bad doesn't accomplish much at all.
 

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I can't belive you still trying to deal with this problem...
How many more wiper motors do you need to blow away before paying a little bit of attention?

I told you more than 1 year ago but nobody listen.
Some users here keep you all confuse & lost when this problem was solved already on 2008 in Audi forums.

Google a little bit and you will find that you are not the only ones in the world with this problem.
I thought this guy was banned from SS a while back.
 

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Has your solution been installed and/or verified on this chassis for an extended period of time to confirm it's in fact a "fix"? Because of right now I haven't had a single issue with my Morimoto low amp draw ballasts and a proper relay harness. So that's a "fix" too I would say.

And stop bringing up Audi because they share one of the same components.
 

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Because of right now I haven't had a single issue with my Morimoto low amp draw ballasts and a proper relay harness. So that's a "fix" too I would say.
Elaborate? Is this from TRS? I don't see it on their site.
 

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The majority of the reading I did said that the HID's in the FOGS would be fine, as they are not monitored by the canbus.
I also read about guys without factory headlight hid's using the foglight circuit and turning them on with the switch incar to avoid this issue.
But I guess that information was wrong.
 

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Has your solution been installed and/or verified on this chassis for an extended period of time to confirm it's in fact a "fix"? Because of right now I haven't had a single issue with my Morimoto low amp draw ballasts and a proper relay harness. So that's a "fix" too I would say.

And stop bringing up Audi because they share one of the same components.
"My solution" as you like to call it, is not the only solution.

You can install certain OEM HID in your Volvo and you will be 100% safe.

The only thing I did is to make a HID that mimics how the OEM HID works for a portion of the price.
But is not the only solution. There are many. (many OEM HID ballast & bulbs you can use)

The "engineers" in this forum are wrong.
The KBOWE, the relays, using the fog circuit, all this is useless. If your wiper motor didn't blow away you are just lucky.

Anyone with a different opinion from this "engineers" is insulted and discredited without any reason.

While the "engineers" keep giving wrong advices & making other people blow his wiper motor, just like happened to Sp1kE.

He read that it was safe to install HID kits on the fog lights.
That fog lights were not monitored by the canbus.
That guys without HID headlights were flipping their headlight circuits to the foglight ones and using the switch to turn them on to avoid this issue.

There is nothing to discover. All this has been proveen for many years not only in Audi forums but also in PEUGEOT forums.
Both cars (Audi A3 & Peugeot 407) share the same problems.
Both of them tested, Fixed & solved.

Other cars suffer from different issues like ABS, ESP, Radio signal, speedometer problems after install regular HID kits.
They are also solved in the same way as the Audi A3 & Peugeot 407.

Can you see a pattern here?
If you don't your are simply blind.

All this HID produce electronic interference.
Some OEM HID can avoid that & the solution is as simple as that.
No need to add nothing, no cables, no relays, no nothing. Just a HID that won't cause any interference.

Forget about how many bachelor degrees you have & be humble for 1 time in your life & listen to someone with experience who knows about the issue & have been working with it for years.

I just came here to tell you that you are doing wrong.
As it has been proveed with all those broken wiper motors in the forum.
You will do good to listed for once in your life instead of showing off your bachelor degress to make your point.
 

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The majority of the reading I did said that the HID's in the FOGS would be fine, as they are not monitored by the canbus.
I also read about guys without factory headlight hid's using the foglight circuit and turning them on with the switch incar to avoid this issue.
But I guess that information was wrong.
You can not trust what people say in the forums.
They pretend to be proffesionals but they are talking about issues they don't understand.

Sp1kE, Even we are located far away I would like to Fix your wiper motor for free.
We could share the shipping cost from Canada to Europe & back to you.

If there is any way I can help you just let me know.
 

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You can not trust what people say in the forums. They pretend to be professionals but they are talking about issues they don't understand.
Now I'm soooo confused . . . :D

Hey man, Seriously chill a little! we certainly don't need an other round and round and round of the same semantic.

Yes you can trust people on forums, especially this one. And yes sometime the information won't be correct, or correct on the first trial. But certainly you'll be helped more often than you'll be given wrong information. AND the alternative will be a lot more expensive than the occasional mistake... You'd have a little more than a handful of posts here, you would know that. Forums are a place where amateurs learn together. In the end it is well worth it and you'll have a hard time finding a truly active member here who would disagree.

Personally I don't have HIDs and I'm just as happy not to. But you've got to give more direct information, links and what not! or just don't bother yourself hanging out here. It'll just makes everyone frustrated, yourself included, and bring the all mood down for no useful purposes...

No one remember your initial information if you even have given it (or simply had a laps of memory in not having done so), and everyone will be lazy to look for it especially when it comes with the attitude...

Sorry to say this but personally from where I'm seating you could be completely right, but it's not that you make me want to hear you... So just loosen-up and meet people half way if you have any hope to be heard. Just some strong recommendations of good SwedeSpeed conduct. I'm just saying... trying to help you recover here if at all possible.
 

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Now I'm soooo confused . . . :D

Hey man, Seriously chill a little! we certainly don't need an other round and round and round of the same semantic.

Yes you can trust people on forums, especially this one. And yes sometime the information won't be correct, or correct on the first trial. But certainly you'll be helped more often than you'll be given wrong information. AND the alternative will be a lot more expensive than the occasional mistake... You'd have a little more than a handful of posts here, you would know that. Forums are a place where amateurs learn together. In the end it is well worth it and you'll have a hard time finding a truly active member here who would disagree.

Personally I don't have HIDs and I'm just as happy not to. But you've got to give more direct information, links and what not! or just don't bother yourself hanging out here. It'll just makes everyone frustrated, yourself included, and bring the all mood down for no useful purposes...

No one remember your initial information if you even have given it (or simply had a laps of memory in not having done so), and everyone will be lazy to look for it especially when it comes with the attitude...

Sorry to say this but personally from where I'm seating you could be completely right, but it's not that you make me want to hear you... So just loosen-up and meet people half way if you have any hope to be heard. Just some strong recommendations of good SwedeSpeed conduct. I'm just saying... trying to help you recover here if at all possible.
I have been in this forum since 2011.

Saw this cyclic topic many many times... (also in other forums)
- Someone says the solution is X
- People have a broken wiper motor hours, weeks or months after trying X

After working for more than 7 years with this kind of products I do know about HID kits and the problems they cause.

I shared my knowledge in the forum to avoid more people to suffer this problem.
Told them this was the wrong approach to the problem and I explained what was the problem causing the wiper motor to fail.

My information was not welcome by the "engineers" in the forum. (as they call themselves)
All I got was insults and disparagement from this guys, showing how many bachelor degrees they had, how good & smart they are.
Seems they are better than the rest of us & their opinion & ideas are the only right ones.

You are wrong about one thing.
People is here to learn what a few users allow them to learn.
Users who do not understand what they are dealing with & haven't been able to find a solution to the problem impose their ideas & opinions.
They make this forum their forum & decide what is right or wrong not allowing people to share & learn new knowledge.
They can't stand about any other people taking credit for the solution but them.

That was the reason I deleted all my post in the forum. And this is the reason why people in this forum keep blowing away the wiper motor.
After all this insults & negative comments from the "professionals & engineers" in the forums I thought they didn't need my help at all.

But every time I see a new guy with a broken wiper motor I think they are just another victim of the wrong information posted on the forum.

He might appreciate to receive real answers about his issue & try to find solutions.
 

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Has your solution been installed and/or verified on this chassis for an extended period of time to confirm it's in fact a "fix"? Because of right now I haven't had a single issue with my Morimoto low amp draw ballasts and a proper relay harness. So that's a "fix" too I would say.

And stop bringing up Audi because they share one of the same components.
There is no proper relay harness.
Relay harness are useless to solve this problem. I did try many times back in 2006-2007

Some wiper motors (a small %) won't fail no matter what.
That's why some users think they found the solution. (same story in all the forums over the world, France, US, Spain...)

I did try & solved the problem in many platforms:
- Peugeot 407 wiper motor & BSI problem (Tested & Solved)
- Audi A3 8P wiper motor problem (Tested & Solved)
- Audi A4 B6 ABS / ESP problem (Tested & Solved)
- Golf V wiper motor problem (Tested & Solved)
- Seat Leon 1P wiper motor problem (Tested & Solved)

I don't bring Audi. I bring all the brands with the same issue.

Yours is just the exact same problem in a diffent platform, something quite common as you can see.
If you can not see the pattern you have a problem...
 

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What did I say:
Hey man, Seriously chill a little! we certainly don't need another round and round and round of the same semantic.
I have been in this forum since 2011.
You are wrong about one thing.
People is here to learn what a few users allow them to learn.
No, I am not wrong in this instance. You are.

It seems to me that you are extremely bitter about forums in general and make claims you know them when you don't. Not all of them are the same beast.
Having been a member since 2011 doesn't mean you know the forum. There's a life outside of your microcosms of HID lighting.
People come here and learn and help each other a great deal on every aspect of the cars. I know for a fact this forum is more helpful here than most other forums I have been. Sure like every places with lots of people you'll have different personalities clashing but that's just about everywhere in life. Ultimately the forum knowledge is the sum of everyone participating and I can attest on this section of SS (the S40/V50 2004.5+) a lot of enthusiastic people are participating actively and proficiently making a real impact in what SS is today. Looking at forum member as victims is very narrow minded might I add. And classifying the entire SS community members as either ignorant or or victims won't get you any friends to listen to you I can assure you.

Beside this is an extreme contradiction:
That was the reason I deleted all my post in the forum.
But every time I see a new guy with a broken wiper motor I think they are just another victim of the wrong information posted on the forum.
He might appreciate to receive real answers about his issue & try to find solutions.
Seriously? You want to help than help! . . . . Put your pride away and give people details.
Otherwise this is just unpleasant to see over and over again... :thumbdown:

I've put enough time into this :facepalm: That's it. I did all I could to help you see things differently... It's really up to you.
 

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It seems to me that you are extremely bitter about forums in general and make claims you know them when you don't. Not all of them are the same beast.
Having been a member since 2011 doesn't mean you know the forum. There's a life outside of your microcosms of HID lighting.
People come here and learn and help each other a great deal on every aspect of the cars. I know for a fact this forum is more helpful here than most other forums I have been. Sure like every places with lots of people you'll have different personalities clashing but that's just about everywhere in life. Ultimately the forum knowledge is the sum of everyone participating and I can attest on this section of SS (the S40/V50 2004.5+) a lot of enthusiastic people are participating actively and proficiently making a real impact in what SS is today. Looking at forum member as victims is very narrow minded might I add. And classifying the entire SS community members as either ignorant or or victims won't get you any friends to listen to you I can assure you.
Did you read what I have posted?

I'm talking about a FEW users who believe they are above the rest.
FEW users who walk around the forum showing off their "bachelor degrees" to disqualify other users.
FEW users who insult & disqualify any user with a different opinion.

And this are facts as shown in this thread. (just need to read the previous pages of the thread)

I'm willing to help & share information with the enthusiastic poeple in the forum.
I have been trying hard for it, even with the opposition & discouragement from this few users.

And yes maybe I might be bitter for the way I was welcome in the forum & the way I was treated by this FEW "engineers" users.
Just trying to make my point & let the enthusiastic people know about the problem & how to avoid it.

It might be to late for Sp1kE but others can prevent their wiper motor to fail & not waste hundreds of dollars.

Seriously? You want to help than help! . . . .
That's just what I'm doing.
I explained Sp1kE why his wiper motor blow away & that is not safe to install regular HID kits on fog lights.
He can install certain OEM HID kits (not all are safe).
And offer myself to help fixing his wiper motor.

Hope there is no problem with that also...
 

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I agree, the issue boils down to interference. Thus purchasing cheap **** like DDM's I feel is the root cause. I think they are garbage and so is most of the overseas rebranded products.

One thing worthy to note that Shadow discovered is the wiring between xenon and halogen lights are not the same. So yes in theory oem stuff works peachy but does require altered wiring. The PWM signal of our factory halogen setups is one of those issues.

I say proper relay harness because the way my lights are wired they share NOTHING with the can bus. The signal from the CEM only powers my relays, and then everything else is tied DIRECTLY to the battery.

The ballasts I am using are designed specifically for TRS to avoid the common issues. The "can bus" ballasts you see online I highly doubt have any differences in concept as these do. That's just my take. I'm not an engineer, all I know is what I have seen first hand with my own setup. Not many of us have had our lighting systems laid out multiple times to test and be a guinea pig as to what works and what doesn't.

I learned my lesson with the DDM's. I should have known better, that's my fault. My original oem ballast didn't work with what I was trying to achieve so used the 55W ones I already had. You can check my retrofit thread if your curious.

My beef is you haven't explained what you did to make your ballast better than everyone else's. I would be curious if there was any major differences in design between my Morimotos and yours.
 

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I agree, the issue boils down to interference. Thus purchasing cheap **** like DDM's I feel is the root cause. I think they are garbage and so is most of the overseas rebranded products.

One thing worthy to note that Shadow discovered is the wiring between xenon and halogen lights are not the same. So yes in theory oem stuff works peachy but does require altered wiring. The PWM signal of our factory halogen setups is one of those issues.

I say proper relay harness because the way my lights are wired they share NOTHING with the can bus. The signal from the CEM only powers my relays, and then everything else is tied DIRECTLY to the battery.

The ballasts I am using are designed specifically for TRS to avoid the common issues. The "can bus" ballasts you see online I highly doubt have any differences in concept as these do. That's just my take. I'm not an engineer, all I know is what I have seen first hand with my own setup. Not many of us have had our lighting systems laid out multiple times to test and be a guinea pig as to what works and what doesn't.

I learned my lesson with the DDM's. I should have known better, that's my fault. My original oem ballast didn't work with what I was trying to achieve so used the 55W ones I already had. You can check my retrofit thread if your curious.

My beef is you haven't explained what you did to make your ballast better than everyone else's. I would be curious if there was any major differences in design between my Morimotos and yours.
Right the problem is due to interference, there is no doubt about it.

The 26.000v runing through the cable produce a magnetic field that might interference with the electronics around.
In most of the cases nothing happen or only small issues like AM/FM radio intereference, Digital clocks reseting, speedometer needles going crazy & reseting, sudden wiper blades movements when turn on the HID with no more inconvenience nor long lasting side effects.
As long as the HID is off the problems go away & most of the problems only show up during the 3-4 seconds HID start up.
(this problems also occur in cars without CANBUS Line)

But turns out the Volvo , Peugeot 407, Audi A3 8P, Golf V, Seat Leon 1P, have some parts specially vulnerable to this HID interference.

As an example I can tell you that if you were able to install the HID bulbs & ballas with a 10meter cable far away from your wiper motor & car electronics you wouldn't suffer any damage at all.
The only problem here is the PROXIMITY of the HIGH VOLTAGE cables to your car electronics.
Any electronics within the range of the electro-magnetic field generated by the 26.000v is vulnerable & might fail.

This is the reason why is useless to install the Relays, battery harness, use the fog lights circuit, warning cancellers, etc...
As long as the HID bulbs & ballast are close enough to your car electronics the wiper motor might fail.
It can take 2 hours or 2 years, but eventually it will fail "almost certainly".
(and I say almost certainly because FEW Volvo, A3, Golf V units are exempt of the wiper motor failure, no matter what HID they install. I belive is due to a different wiper motor electronics. They might have different suppliers in the factory & use one component or another depending on stock)

My first attempt to solve the problem (the wiper motor and others) was using Aluminum foil to protect the car electronics from the electro-magnetic field interference.
I was working in an old Seat Ibiza with no CANBUS or almost any complex electronics.
After setting up the HID kit, the digital clock, partial km & speedometer & revs needles went crazy every single time I turn on the HID lights.
So I decided to wrap all the HID ballast & cables with the Aluminum foil & immediately I saw and big improvement even the problem was not completely solve.
With the aluminum foil the problem only occurs 1 every 3 or 4 times I turn on the HID lights.

Also I had an interesting experience with a Golf mk4, which again has no CANBUS system.
In this case the wiper motors were moving by themselves every time we turn on the HID lights.
It was also partially "fixed" by using Aluminum foild
The interference problem was not completely gone, but it was less noticeable after this "solution".

That was what gave me the idea to work on it & solve also the problem with the wiper motor.

I tried the aluminum foild to solve the problem with the Audi A3 but it didn't work for long.
They end up blowing away the wiper motor, didn't make a big difference.

I realized that this problem wouldn't happen with most of OEM bulbs & ballast & started working with that until I was able to mimic the way most OEM HID bulbs & ballast works to reduce HIGH VOLTAGE interference.

The first test I made was in 2008 & since then never again I saw the wiper motor problem again.

That's the reason I'm 100% certain about the solution for this problem. And this is why using a cheap $40 will never work.
Most users were doubtful & try to attack me thinking I was trying to force them to buy something, but nothing is farther than reality.
You can buy MOST (not all) of the OEM HID bulbs & ballast & it will be safe for your wiper motor, but as I said this is not a $40 solutions as most wanted.

I told the same story to other forums like VWVortex & it took for them 1 or 2 years to believe it. But finally they saw the evidence & now the know without any doubt how the problem & solution works.

-ForceFed-
If you have a link to your retrofit I would be glad to check!
Yes, your morimoto & the HIDs that are safe for wiper motor are 2 different worlds. (no High Voltage cables to begin with)
Some regular HIDs might be more prone to cause interference than others, but they could interfere sooner or later with your car electronics, they are not 100% safe.
 

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Right the problem is due to interference, there is no doubt about it.

The 26.000v runing through the cable produce a magnetic field that might interference with the electronics around.
In most of the cases nothing happen or only small issues like AM/FM radio intereference, Digital clocks reseting, speedometer needles going crazy & reseting, sudden wiper blades movements when turn on the HID with no more inconvenience nor long lasting side effects.
As long as the HID is off the problems go away & most of the problems only show up during the 3-4 seconds HID start up.
(this problems also occur in cars without CANBUS Line)

But turns out the Volvo , Peugeot 407, Audi A3 8P, Golf V, Seat Leon 1P, have some parts specially vulnerable to this HID interference.

As an example I can tell you that if you were able to install the HID bulbs & ballas with a 10meter cable far away from your wiper motor & car electronics you wouldn't suffer any damage at all.
The only problem here is the PROXIMITY of the HIGH VOLTAGE cables to your car electronics.
Any electronics within the range of the electro-magnetic field generated by the 26.000v vulnerable & might fail.

This is the reason why is useless to install the Relays, battery harness, use the fog lights circuit, warning cancellers, etc...
As long as the HID bulbs & ballast are close enough to your car electronics the wiper motor might fail.
It can take 2 hours or 2 years, but eventually it will fail "almost certainly".
(and I say almost certainly because FEW Volvo, A3, Golf V units are exempt of the wiper motor failure, no matter what HID they install. I belive is due to a different wiper motor electronics. They might have different suppliers in the factory & use one component or another depending on stock)

My first attempt to solve the problem (the wiper motor and others) was using Aluminum foil to protect the car electronics from the electro-magnetic field interference.
I was working in an old Seat Ibiza with no CANBUS or almost any complex electronics.
After setting up the HID kit, the digital clock, partial km & speedometer & revs needles went crazy every single time I turn on the HID lights.
So I decided to wrap all the HID ballast & cables with the Aluminum foil & immediately I saw and big improvement even the problem was not completely solve.
With the aluminum foil the problem only occurs 1 every 3 or 4 times I turn on the HID lights.

Also I had an interesting experience with a Golf mk4, which again has no CANBUS system.
In this case the wiper motors were moving by themselves every time we turn on the HID lights.
It was also partially "fixed" by using Aluminum foild
The interference problem was not completely gone, but it was less noticeable after this "solution".

That was what gave me the idea to work on it & solve also the problem with the wiper motor.

I tried the aluminum foild to solve the problem with the Audi A3 but it didn't work for long.
They end up blowing away the wiper motor, didn't make a big difference.

I realized that this problem wouldn't happen with most of OEM bulbs & ballast & started working with that until I was able to mimic the way most OEM HID bulbs & ballast works to reduce HIGH VOLTAGE interference.

The first test I made was in 2008 & since then never again I saw the wiper motor problem again.
Now we're getting somewhere :)

So much talk about HID I never took the time to understand what they actually are. Wiki has pretty simple and well explained summary:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-intensity_discharge_lamp

Quick and neat take away:
- HID are a type of arc lamp. Initial high voltage is require to evaporates the metal salts forming a plasma
- They generate greater light spectrum radiation contrary to incandescent (heat based)
- Because of that they generate UV radiation as well so many application requires UV filtering
 

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Also wanted to let you know that we did try this solution in the Volvo V50
(sorry but I forgot about it, tried in so many platforms that I didn't even remember)

The user is "Jon TDI" from England and he posted on volvoforums.org.uk his Retrofit on the Volvo V50 a few months ago.

He had 2 broken wiper motors before in his previous car, so he didn't want to take any risk again.

As expected his wiper motor still working as usual.
 

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Hello i disabled my DRL'S. today i decided to install my hids i bought the Ballast off a 2006 Audi RS4 Quality bosh the only problem is that i bought the bulbs from EBAY for 10 bucks and i try the ballast with the 10 dollar bulbs and they turn on after about 6 seconds the bulb starts to flash not flicker and this i try direct to battery just to test them. Is the reason why they flash it because the bulbs are bad quality or are my ballast bad ? then i installed them to my 2005 s40 2.4i with the DRL disabled and they turn on no flickering this is with the car off. i installed the ballast direct to the head light H11 connection no relay nothing just direct. BUT when i turn the car on they flicker as if i didint Disable the DRL what am i doing wrong please some one help thanks guys !! i will try to post pictures of my ballast and how i have them wired up.
 
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